I recently had the pleasure of accompanying Captain Terry Willis on a yacht delivery from Paradise Village in Puerto Vallarta to its home slip at the San Diego Yacht Club.

Terry is an experienced yacht delivery Captain who lives with his wife Michelle just across from me on their boat. He invited me as we have become good friends, and I recently got my Coast Guard Captain's license.

The boat we delivered is a 2005 65' Mikelson Yachtfisher - basically a long distance sportfisher. Terry has delivered "El Jefe" six previous Springs back to its home slip.

The owner and friends take the boat down the Baja California coast every Fall for fishing and fun in beautiful Banderas Bay. Terry brings it back every Spring with one crew.

Terry and I shared the helm with 3 hour watches at night. We had a full moon the whole way. What a blessing for night watches!. The power plant is pretty impressive; twin 650hp Cummins diesels and 6'4" headroom in the engine room. We took temperature and other assorted readings every hour and recorded them in the log.

We cruised at an average speed of 9 knots at a steady 1200 rpm all the way. We had very good weather for this time of year. The prevailing winds are from the north-northwest, with seas out of the west. Our average winds were 10-15kts with 3-4' seas.

We went straight through to Ensenada with an 18 hour stop in Turtle Bay to wait for better weather. Terry communicated several times a day with the owner by satphone to get weather updates and progress reports. The owner is very meticulous and the boat is in pristine condition. In Ensenada, we took on 500 gallons of fuel; not that we needed it, as the fuel capacity is 2500 gallons, but because it was $3/gallon vs. $4-4.50 per gallon in San Diego.

Total time at sea was about 5.5 days. All in all a very enjoyable experience, and made even more fun listening to Terry's sea stories!

I have many different memories of Mexico; the friendly, open and warm people, but mostly I'll remember the vistas: the beautiful red sunset at Los Muertos, the grey and blue color gradients of the La Costa Allegre coastline in early morning, the awesome power of the water and rolling mountains of sea on our way north from Cabo, the pristine waters of El Cardonal in Isla Espiritu Santos, the dolphins on our bow, and the sailing breeze on Banderas Bay.

We arrived in San Diego on Monday, May 23 after a long and arduous journey south from La Paz, with stops in Cabo San Lucas, then north to Bahia Santa Maria with fuel stops in Abreojos, and Turtle Bay.

Eric, Paul and Will accompanied me north on our 11 day trip. I knew it would be rough, but the experience of 25 knot winds, 8-10 ft seas and a south bearing current of 1+ knots from Cabo north, was hard for both the boat and us.

Each of us had thoroughly read "Baja Bash" by Captain Eric Elfers, which Paul had brought along. The first "rule" he imposed was: "Don't make the trip in the Spring!" The winds, seas and current are all at their maximum and against you.

"Uh oh", we thought - we're in for a tough go. Other friends of mine had suggested June or July and had told me to bring three crew. I obviously violated rule #1, but had taken their advice on the number of crew. Fortunately, all three of my crew were experienced sailors and were the best I could have possibly had for the trip.

We left Cabo at midnight on the 14th and rounded Cabo Falso in 20kt winds. They quickly increased to 25 to 30 kt winds on the nose, all the way to Santa Maria. The boat took quite a pounding.

We waited for two days in Santa Maria for a weather window, which really never appeared. There were a few sailboats in Pto San Carlos nearby and one in Bahia Santa Maria. We saw no other sailboats on our trip north.

We set out at 11pm on the 23rd bound for Turtle Bay. We had six jerry jugs of additional fuel, and we needed almost all (70 gallons) by the time we reached Abreojos where we decided to take on more fuel.

We anchored outside of Abreojos, (the meaning of which is "Open your eyes") launched the dinghy and rode the surf onto the beach with three jerry jugs. We got dunked and soaking wet, walked a block to Llana's fuel, a house with a little storefront which sells diesel and gasoline to the fishermen. Will, Paul and I then returned to the beach and surveyed the surf. After a few minutes, we realized that trying to make it out to the boat (where Eric had remained) in the dinghy, was "not a good idea!".

Soaking wet, we walked up to a tienda on the beach where the fishermen gather. We asked them if we could get a panguero to take us, fuel and our dinghy out to the boat. They made a cell call and within 15 minutes, a panguero arrived driving a farm tractor, towing his 25 ft panga on an axle with wheels along the beach.

The pangueros of Mexico are my heroes. These fishermen risk their lives every day, when they (mostly in pairs) negotiate the surf, and the seas, to bring in giant marlin, tuna and snapper. They often do not own the boats or the motors, but work for a collective who provide all the materials. They are slaves to "the man" - just like miners in the US.

These pangas are well over 20 ft long, heavily reinforced with multiple stringers athwartships, weighing 1500 lbs. They are built like battleships.

I watched in awe as our panga driver and his helper, pushed the panga out into the water, signalling us to board, after heaving our dinghy with engine attached, into the panga. The helper pulled on lines to withdraw the axle on wheels from the bottom of the boat. It was now afloat. Our driver lowered the 80 horse Yamaha outboard to a 45 degree angle, as the panga did not yet have enough draft to put it all the way down. He gunned the engine and the prop, partially submerged, spat the water aft as the panga gained a few feet. He then lowered it all the way to the vertical position, and surveyed the surf line. A few moments later he gunned the engine as the giant panga gently lifted over the surf. I yelled "Perfecto!" He smiled and we were on our way.

Truly my dream would be to apprentice for one of these guys and learn to drive a panga safely onto and off of beaches like they do - but that's in "the next life"!

We transferred our jerry jugs of fuel into Easily Influenced's tanks and were on our way.

The rest of the trip to Turtle Bay was more of the same, but we were breathing easier as we had plenty of fuel.

We arrived at Turtle Bay the next morning. As we entered the bay, Ruben of Anabel Fuel Servicios, drove his panga to meet us. I said:

"Necesito sesenta gallones para disel, por favor". He said "No problema". He guided us to a mooring off his beach and brought his fuel barge to us, where he refueled us, then ferried us to the beach for a trip to town for provisions, a meal and some wifi for emails, showers and a weather forecast.

We knew by then, that weather forecasts along the Baja coast are not of much use, and a weather window in the Spring, is - well - nonexistent.

We returned to the boat after recalculating our fuel supply and bought two additional jerry jugs of diesel from Ruben and were on our way. Although we were halfway to "The Barn" - San Diego, we knew that some of the roughest seas lay ahead. We discussed at length whether we should take Isla Cedros to starboard or go in the lee of the island and hug the coast. We decided to take it to starboard and bear the seas. For the next 100 miles across Bahia Vizcaino, we motorsailed at times, with a wind angle, and found that the boat took the seas much more smoothly. The "vertical dacron stabilizer", as Captain Elfers advises, helps stabilize the boat and he was right - it was much more pleasant.

The remaining leg of our journey provided a little less wind, and we made it into San Diego bay about 8pm on the 23rd.

We stopped at the customs dock on Shelter Island, called Customs and were cleared into the US. We spent the night at the transient docks, and had a well deserved meal at the Red Sails.

On the entire trip, we encountered no other sailboats and only three other vessels, all power, and all within the last 150 miles. I said to my crew: "Maybe they know something we don't!" as we shook our heads.

The boat appears to have survived the jawbreaking pounding. We did have some minor ingress of water possibly from a stanchion on deck which may have become unbedded, and a minor drip line down the compression post beneath the mast.

The engine never coughed, hiccuped or stalled. It just kept on and on and on, never faltering. What a blessing!

We all learned a lot about sea conditions, wave periods, and current. Current is not something you can see or feel at sea. The only way to calculate it, is to subtract boat speed (through the water) from speed over ground (the actual speed on the earth's surface along which the boat travels). We typically had a knot of current against us until 100 miles from San Diego where it was with us.

The pic shows El Cardonal looking west.

I decided to take a break from boat chores and the recruitment of crew for the Bash north to San Diego, to visit the popular islands just northeast of La Paz.

I got in a good sail before the wind died as I viewed a number of anchorages before choosing El Cardonal. I chose it because of its protected nature, and because there was room! Only one other boat inhabited the anchorage as I arrived. The anchorage is protected on all sides with steep sheer walls of sandstone. The landscape is extremely arid. The water was crystal clear and azure. I spent quite a bit of time viewing the landscape and trying to envision a way to get to the top of one of the steep hills and cliffs to take a picture of Easily Influenced, as I think shots of boats in remote anchorages, from above, are particularly alluring. But there was just no access. A climb would have taken the better part of a day, as I would have had to traverse multiple smaller hills just to get to the cliff overlooking the anchorage.

Pictures don't do the beauty justice. The stark beauty of the red sandstone with caves, cliffs fallen away and tiny vegetation, is quite remarkable.

The following day, I lowered the dinghy from its davits, mounted the outboard and motored about two miles toward the beach at the end of the cove. The depth was very consistent, about 3 feet, for about a mile. I reached the point where I needed to disembark and lead the dinghy to the beach. The I noticed scattering crabs, and reached for my beach shoes!

Later that day, I dove the boat in crystal clear and very warm waters. What a treat. I was able to see the bottom, follow the anchor, and take a look at the zincs on my prop; both are in good condition and the bottom, having been cleaned by Ruben in Mazatlan is in very good shape.

I noticed many turtles, and many fish in these waters. The swimming was the best I've had in Mexico because of the warmth and clarity.

Last night was calm until the early morning when the infamous corumel wind from the west blew in at about 20 kts. The boat rolled and swung at anchor like it usually does in those conditions.

I drove back today in 15 to 20 kt winds on the nose.

I'm looking forward to the arrival of my crew for the trip north; Will, Paul and Eric. We expect to depart on May 12.

We arrived in La Paz and are berthed at Marina Palmira.

We crossed the Sea of Cortez from Mazatlan to Muertos, anchored overnight and then went north to La Paz arriving yesterday afternoon. The weather was good all the way and we got in some sailing and fishing. Dave caught a jack and released it.

Dave was great crew (see pic) and has taken off to watch some kitesurfing before heading home to Seattle.

I'll be confirming with my crew for the Baja Bash and hopefully will find crew to go out to the islands and up north to Puerto Escondido before heading north for the final push to San Diego.

This pic is of myself and Julio who helped Beth and I at the local Telcel office with the Spanish and English translation. Julio is a bar owner in Bucerias (near PV).

Having traveled along the Mexican coast for the better part of the last six months, I've made a number of observations:

The people: I meet Mexicans in the stores, restaurants, mercados, marinas and chandleries. They are friendly, always helpful, and often speak English (better than they think!). I asked one Mexican cafe owner the other day how his English got so good. He said: "Cartoons - they speak slowly and it's simple English."

The Mexicans love to party! At night they come alive - any excuse for a party or gathering - often with family. And they are very family oriented - sort of reminds me of America many years ago before economic "opportunities" provided family members with jobs in remote cities.

So in many ways, Mexico is a throwback for North Americans - what it used to be like many years ago. To that extent it brings tears to my eyes, when I see Mexican families enjoying each other, with Dads enjoying children and kids enjoying what I and my friends did when I grew up - just being kids and having fun with each other. I see very little phone or computer use. Unlike the states, kids are not stuck to their computers or phones texting each other.

I've had a couple of opportunities to meet and converse in detail with Mexicans. As I am interested in politics I asked one: "What do Mexicans think of Americans?"

He replied: "You know, many Mexicans are still angry at Americans for stealing their land".

I had to think about this for a moment, but then remembered that Texas, part of California, and New Mexico, were "won" from Mexico. Many people of Mexican ancestry stayed in the states, but many also retreated to Mexico. But I doubt many Americans realize this part of their history.

Economics and politics: I asked another Mexican ferreteria owner: "How's business?" He replied: "Terrible - the drug cartels are demanding protection from small businesses."

I asked him what he thought of Fox and Calderone, the current and most recent past Presidents of Mexico. He replied: "For many years Mexico was asleep." But in the same breath he said that the toll that the war with the drug cartels is exacting is extreme. He appeared to support Calderone on the one hand, but on the other, was very upset about the consequences of the war on drugs.

When I go into a ferreteria (hardware store) I often say: "Papel y pluma por favor." They slip me a piece of paper and I begin drawing the part I'm looking for.

Generally, Mexicans are working for low wages. Labor is cheap in Mexico. I wonder how they make ends meet.

And what about the drug cartels? In the US, the prevailing attitude toward Mexico is one of fear - because of media depictions and the Department of Homeland Security's continual warnings.

Just south of the border in Nogales and other cities, it is warranted. However, in the towns and cities I've traveled in, far south of the border, there is no violence. I've heard several stories of complicity on the part of businesses in money laundering for the cartels. I don't know whether this is voluntary, they get a cut of the action, or whether it is out of fear.

The language: My Spanish 101 enables me to ask a basic question or utter a basic greeting. Then the fun begins. They either try out their English on me - or we both set about to try to communicate - with their limited English and my limited Spanish. We are almost always successful - it's pretty amazing how two people who want to communicate can!

Their attitude: Mexicans appear to be largely content. Their expectations are limited and I believe they take solace in things we Americans have been losing: family, friends and faith.

Construction: Mexico is "under construction". Buildings lie vacant. New construction lies vacant. Many restaurants struggle with just a few customers. I don't know how they make it.

Walking is an extreme sport in Mexico. Walk down the street; either unpaved or cobblestone, and watch out for holes. Sidewalks where they exist, often disappear as homeowners or businesses, occupy them and the streets as well.

Cost of living: For travelers, you can obviously pay top dollar - or you can do it on the cheap - cheaper than the US. Taqueterias serve cheap and reasonable food. I loved my tortas bought from on the street in Barra de Navidad.

Health care: I've talked to a number of gringos who explain that some things are cheaper - doctor and hospital visits; but others such as pain killers available in the US are nonexistent in Mexico.

In summation I'll tell a little story.

I needed duplicate keys for my engine ignition. I went to Jarretederas, a Mexican town just outside a gringo community in Puerto Nueva Vallarta. The first ferreteria I went to said no, they couldn't reproduce my key. They suggested another one down the street. I went there, and got the same answer. I asked in my broken spanish: "Donde es en otros ferreteria?" The shop owner said: "Puerto Vallarta". I said: "Adonde?"

He said in pretty good English: "Get in my truck. I have to do some business there and I'll take you."

We drove into PV and he parked in front of his bank with a key shop next door. He told me to go in and have my keys made and wait for him. He came out after I had my keys made and he did his business in the bank and I got into his truck. I said to him: "I want to pay you for your time and trouble."

He said no, he was doing me a favor. I insisted that he had gone way out of his way and I wanted to repay him.

He said: "I don't take money for favors!"

I said: "But there must be something I can do for you!"

He said: "Buy me a taco."

We went to his favorite taco stand (way out of the way of gringos) and had tacos for desayuno (breakfast).

Afterwards we had a great conversation about Mexico and politics and he drove me back to the marina.

Now part of me thinks that anyone in any country would do the same for a stranger from another country - but I favor the other part which says - Mexicans are simply good and friendly people who I will miss when I return to the states.