We had become aware that we might have a problem with our visas. The regulations for yachts and crews, as set by the U.S. Customs and Border Protection agency, are as clear as the Maine mud that comes up with your anchor. Firstly, crews can't arrive on a yacht without a full, 10-year visa, unlike regular tourists who arrive by air. Next, you have to apply for a Cruising License for the vessel, which lasts 12 months and can't be renewed without taking the boat out of the country. It is then necessary to phone in each time the boat moves into a new 'district', except that in some districts they want you to phone every time you move to different harbour. When you first arrive in the country, your passport should be stamped and an I-94 slip attached with an "until" date, usually six months from the date of arrival, but at the discretion of the officer. But six months isn't really enough time for crews to avoid the hurricane season unless they leave the tropics late in one season and head back very early in the next.

Our customs officer at Beaufort had told us that we could stay up to 12 months, but didn't mark our passports or issue an I-94. Subsequently it became apparent that we were deemed to have arrived on the day we took a ferry to the U.S. Virgin Islands for medical treatment in May, although we hadn't been issued with an I-94 then either. When we realised the potential problem, we consulted the local Customs office in Maine and were told that we could get properly dated stamps and I-94s only by leaving the country and returning. They asked us to tell us when and where we would cross the border - explaining that we would only need stay in Canada for lunch before crossing back - and they would prime the local officers. We thanked them for this slight bending of the rules. It would, of course, have been possible to sail to Canada, but as it was getting late in the season we decided to drive a hire car from Portland and stay for one night.

The nearest border crossing was in Quebec Province, but we chose instead to go to Campobello Island in New Brunswick, which looked more interesting. It is located in the Bay of Fundy, connected to the easternmost point of Maine by a road bridge, and linked to the rest of Canada only by a summertime ferry. We arrived late in the afternoon and checked in to Owen House, our B&B in the village of Welshpool. The house had been built in 1835 by Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen, whose father, a Welsh Naval captain, had been appointed "Principal Proprietary of the Great Outer Island of Passamaquoddy" by the Governor of Nova Scotia. It was still owned by a descendant of the Admiral, and full of antiques and memorabilia.

After breakfasting on blueberry pancakes and sausages, we toured the 9-mile length and 3-mile breadth of the island, starting with Head Harbour Lighthouse. Built entirely of timber, it is painted white with a large red cross of St. George as a daymark. It is accessible for two hours either side of low water - very critical, as the Bay of Fundy has a tidal range of up to 16m, the biggest in the world. The island is perhaps best known for the summer home of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, which we visited before leaving the island. The USA Border Protection officers were expecting us at their post just over the bridge. As we drew sigh of relief on receipt of the correct documentation for another six months' stay, they told us "There will be a charge". Our hearts sank, expecting a massive bill, but they continued "40 cents for the stamp!" Phew - we drove back to Portland happy.