The Carters Tour Carti
12 July 2016 | Islas Carti
Jill
With our new cruising buddies from SY Santa Cruz, we arranged with Aron to take the 0800 launcha from the small Eco resort at Chichime to Carti, some 8NM away. The day dawned dark and stormy; and as happens around here we were soon experiencing a tropical deluge of around an hours duration with sheet lightning and deafening thunder. These storms form quickly, occasionally have venomous winds, and always deliver a few inches of rain. Once over, the clouds rapidly disappear and the sun bathes the islands and the Caribbean Sea with radiance. Somehow, the launcha driver assumed that due to the weather, we wouldn't want to leave our yachts (although unlike Elphaba, we won't melt in the rain). We assumed that he had forgotten us - no problem, we simply waved down the next launcha as it arrived. Safely onboard, we made ourselves comfortable and settled down to enjoy the ride (albeit with wet butts as all the seating was saturated). We passed by several new to us islands and headed south; next thing we knew, we were heading for the mouth of the Rio Carti at mainland Panama - our launcha actually returning overnight island guests to pick up transport for Panama City. No problem, a quick phone call by one of the guys to Aron and we were heading back out to sea and to Carti Sugdup. Bonus trip into the river!
Disembarking at the village dock, we met the owner and crew of a large Columbian cargo trader. The ship travels constantly between Cartegena and the Guna Yala - they bring all manner of supplies for the islands and the Guna Yala sell their coconuts directly to the ship. It's a great symbiotic relationship. Aron then arrived; it turns out that Carti Sugdup is his wife Dixies family island and where they still maintain a home. We took a quick tour of the island and met some of the local ladies, busily stitching Molas and threading beads for Wini (the colourful strands used to adorn both legs and arms as part of the Guna women's traditional dress). Aron then invited us in to view the Onmaked Nega (Congress House or Casa de Congreso) - a large hall filled with bench seats plus a series of hammocks strung from internal beams. The Onmaked Nega is utilised for the nightly island meetings, where the three Sailas (Elders) chair discussions relating to island life plus host spiritual events. Aron explained to us that the people work together to decide all activities relating to the island - from day to day events through to approving the construction of new homes (which all the villagers help to build free of charge). The Sailas sleep in the hall every night and spare hammocks are available to accommodate their counterparts from other Congresos when they visit. The building is also the Guna Yala "church" - the people believe in the power of Napguana (Mother Earth), plus Bab Tummat - the Sacred Grandfather who watches over them. All ceremonial events take place within the Onmaked Nega. Special significance is placed on life events - Inna-suit, a type of baptism, occurs for all children between age 4-5; : Ico-inna marks a young girls transition to puberty; and Inna-mutiki is the joyous celebration of an island wedding. There is soon to be an Inna-suit ceremony on the island which Aron has invited us to see; another real honour and privilege that we are all looking forward to.
We left Carti Sugdup for Carti Tupile (the big island) where Aron & Dixies two children attend school. Whilst the Guna Yala live and govern themselves traditionally, they place much importance on education and all children from age 5 attend school for a minimum of five hours a day. Carti Tupile is home to over 500 people and with space at a minimum, the houses spill out over the water. The cruise ships visit here during the Caribbean season and passenger numbers need to be carefully managed, with trips ashore limited to 100 people at a time in order not to overrun the island.We took a walk through the much larger village here, checked out the fruit and veg stores and the bulk shopping hut (where Santa Cruz replenished their beer supplies) and again saw much craftwork being completed. Aron and Dixie then showed us the island schools, both secondary, where an enthusiastic assembly was taking place, and the primary school where their children were busily working away. We collected the kids plus met several family members, returned to the launcha and back to our sleepy little anchorage. A very interesting and informative day out!