Founded in 1519, Panama Viejo was the Spanish conquistadores jump off point for the exploration and conquest of Peru and became the major transit point for plundered Inca gold and silver headed back to Spain through the Isthmus of Panama (the goods being transported overland to Portobello for shipment via the Caribbean). In 1671 the city was sacked by Henry Morgan, privateer and later the first Governor of Jamaica, resulting in the original settlement being all but destroyed by fire. The remaining Spanish settlers relocated some 5 miles southwest to what is today the UNESCO listed area of Casco Viejo. Modern Panama is a relatively new city, becoming South Americas most influential banking hub during the 1980s. During the Noriega years, it was suspected be an international money laundering centre (not surprisingly, CIA informant turned dictator Noriega was known to be a significant player in illegal cocaine trafficking which was tolerated by US intelligence in view of his perceived usefulness in Latin American covert military operations). Today the city is the vibrant, high-rise gateway to the Canal from the Pacific and was voted as the world's best retirement destination for 2016 by International Living.

We arrived at the luxurious Royal Sonesta Hotel (recommended to us by a fellow cruiser from Shelter Bay Marina) mid afternoon on Saturday 27 August. After settling into our very spacious 26m2 room, complete with king bed and huge bathroom, we set off to explore both the hotel and city. Panama City is well known for its culinary diversity and we were keen to sample the wares of both local hole in the wall eateries and high end restaurants. After happy hour at Sky Bar 26, where we got our first glorious views of the city skyscape, we jumped in a cab and headed to Gaucho's Steakhouse. Taxis are both cheap and abundant throughout the city and from reading several expat blogs, we were wised up on how to avoid being "Gringoed" - fares are on average between $2-$3 within the city centre and instead of questioning how much, you simply hand over a couple of bills at the end of your journey. Gaucho's is considered to be the premier steak restaurant of PC and didn't disappoint - succulent, melt in your mouth and perfectly grilled beef was served up with local sauces and sides. On our return to the hotel, we were treated to a midnight fireworks display that lit up the CBD.

We spent Day Two exploring the Mercado de Mariscos (Fish Market). Panamanians have been purchasing their seafood here at the foot of the Casco Viejo for centuries and today, there is a fleet of over 1000 small fishing vessels that supply the myriad selection of fish, seafood and crustaceans. As well as the wet market, there is a bustling outdoor relaxed dining area where traditional ceviche and seafood dishes can be purchased very inexpensively. Over the few days we were in the city, we totally fell in love with Panamanian ceviche! Having sated our seafood lust, we walked along the promenade to the centre of Casco Viejo (the Old Quarter - also known as San Felipe or Casco Antiguo .... see how easy it is to get confused here ???). This mostly renovated walled city is alive with culture, arts, historic buildings, bars and restaurants and we spent several hours wandering the streets and soaking up the atmosphere.

Day Three was our HOHO (Hop On, Hop Off) Bus day. Our first destination was the Visitors Centre at the Miraflores Locks. We were keen to see the Pacific entrance lock system in action and were rewarded with the transit into the Canal of a massive car carrier. As we all know, the Panama Canal is considered to be the Eighth Wonder of the World - a massive, labour intensive and dangerous engineering feat that opened up the Panama Isthmus. There were in excessive of 28000 souls lost during the two separate construction phases, both from tropical diseases (Europeans being especially susceptible) and industrial accidents. The majority of the heavy labour was provided by West Indian nations, particularly Jamaica and the French Islands. These workers were paid 0.10 per hour, were expected to live in squalid conditions and were employed to address most of the digging, drilling and dynamiting required. Their achievements, in a hostile and tough environment, were nothing short of amazing and today, the Panamanian nation is certainly prospering financially from what they consider to be "Pro Mundi Beneficio" (For the Benefit of the World). Our next stop was the very colourful Bio Museo; designed by renowned Canadian architect Frank Gehry who donated his design to Panama in honour of his Panamian born wife. Unfortunately, the facility wasn't open on Monday (yes, the day we decided to take the bus) so we were limited to a photo opportunity only. The bus then took us along the Armador Causeway, built with the excavated soil and rock from the Canal, to Isla Flamenco. Used as a military base during WWII, the island was returned by the US to the Panamanian people in 1999 along with the Panama Canal. Today, it is home to the Isla Flamenco Marina, is a duty free shopping zone, and has a number of restaurants and bars with vantage points over the marina and the Pacific Ocean. The return trip to Panama City was via MI Pueblito and the Cerro Ancon to Casco Viejo and then the downtown shopping precinct.

Our dining choice for Evening Three was the highly recommended Peruvian restaurant Machu Picchu - fantastic trio of ceviche, delicious chaufa and tasty and potent Pisco Sours. Contently, we returned to the hotel, took the elevator to the rooftop swmming pool and looked out over the glittering city for a while.Day Four was a working day; our mission being to obtain cards for the membership only bulk shopping Price Smart store plus to reconnoitre their stocks in advance of our Canal Transit and 2017 Pacific adventures. Heading out to The Barrio, we were able to check out some of the amazing and very modern architecture of the financial district - the spiral shaped F&F Tower being the most impressive. After covering off all our retailing investigations, we spent some time exploring the Cinta Costera and dined simply at a local spot near the hotel - more ceviche of course!
Our last day in the city was earmarked for more shopping - Panama hats anyone? - and then we headed out to the Crowne Plaza near Toucaman International Airport in readiness for our next day early morning flight to the USA ..... California here we come !!!