Cruising in Company – The Society Islands
15 September 2017 | The Society Islands, French Polynesia
Jill
It's always such a pleasure to share our cruising lifestyle with others, especially with mates from home. What a fantastic 10 days we have just enjoyed with our friends Denise & Brad, first time sailors and long-time buddies (in fact I've known Denise since we both began banking careers back in 1976).
They arrived bearing gifts - their full allowance of duty free - plus some essential boat bits for us (new electric priming pump for our genset and a new icemaker). After a big night at the marina, we departed from Tahiti at 1000 on Monday 4 September. The weather forecast was extremely favourable with only a 5-10 knot easterly - perfect for a short introductory downwind sail to Mo'orea. After obtaining permission from the Papeete Port Authority to proceed through the lagoon and past the airport, we headed out to sea and raised our mainsail. Brad was trolling for fish, we were sailing comfortably at around 6 knots and we were even blessed with a show by a breaching whale. As we left the lea of Tahiti Nui, we could see some very angry looking clouds forming; before we knew it, we were slap bang in the middle of an intense tropical squall with winds of 30+ knots and gusts to 45. What a baptism for our guests who handled the situation extremely calmly! We reefed in some of our main, deployed the iron sail and worked our way towards the anchorage at Baie D'Opunohu, passing James Packers MV Arctic P as it headed out from Baie De Cook. Inside Mo'orea's lagoon, the conditions became much more benign and we dropped the pick in 5M of gorgeous turquoise water just off the Plage de Ta'ahiamanu and in the shadow of Sommet Parata. Two fantastic days at Mo'orea followed - we took the dinghy out to "Stingray City" and swam with the rays and the blacktip sharks; we putted around to Pointe Hauru to show Brad the ruins of Club Med (he'd spent a very happy time there back in his teens); we went ashore at Pointe Tehau and had a great lunch at the beachfront Les Tipaniers. We explored Opunohu, where Cook and the Endeavour anchored and checked out the many over water bungalow hotels. We once again caught up with Mike and Kylie from SV Slice of Life, enjoying sundowners and stories onboard Elevation.
Our next island stop was Taha'a, around 120NM from Mo'orea. With a population of less than 5000, this laid back and sleepy island is mostly visited by cruisers and charter boat users - tourism is a very small industry compared to vanilla and pearl farming. Our overnight sail there was another first for Denise and Brad and it was fantastic, if a little unusual, to have company whilst doing our watches. The very easy passage gave us all plenty of opportunity to reminisce and enjoy the glorious full moon and clear and starry night sky. Arriving at Passe Paipai and entering the lagoon, we took a quick trip up past the village of Tiva with its stunning pink church to the Coral Gardens (we'd been given the heads up that this is a great snorkelling spot). From there, we meandered south through the lagoon to Baie Apu, where we picked up a Champon Pearl Farm mooring just off the shore. We made a booking to visit the pearl farm the following morning - what a fantastic and informative tour they put on! We learnt about the processes used at the farm, from the collection of oyster larvae in the Tuamotus to the grafting and then harvesting of the finished product at Taha'a; we were even given the opportunity to watch as pearls were removed and inspected and the oysters either reseeded or discarded. Of course, we HAD to make a visit to the showroom where we learnt about the Tahitian grading process; the variances in lustre, size and shape determining the quality of the pearl and the location where farmed influencing colours. At Taha'a, as well as the standard Tahitian black pearl, they cultivate golden, russet and aubergine pearls. Denise picked up a gorgeous necklace with a trio of pearls, I selected a pair of deep gold studs - great mementoes of a special place.
Friday night in Baie Apu means dinner at Le Ficus - a traditional Polynesian feast complete with dancing and fire walking. The anchorage began to fill up with charter vessels from nearby Raiatea and at sunset, a convoy of dinghies began heading in to the small restaurant dock. One step ahead of the "tourists", we arrived first and were able to select the prime table between the bar and the grassy entertainment area. The restaurant is a family run affair, is authentic Polynesian and a great night out. As well as enjoying the amazing dancers, we loved watching the next generation - the little girls of the family practising dance moves on the side lines and the little boys itching to play with the firesticks!
Time to move on to Bora Bora - considered to be the Society Islands "jewel in the crown". The dramatic peaks of Mt Otemanu, the remains of an ancient volcano, rise majestically in the centre of the island and to see it, surrounded by the stunning azure water in the lagoon, is a visual feast. We dined at the Bora Bora Yacht Club - a hip and popular island location complete with its own version of a pool bar. We spent time on anchor in the crystal clear water behind Motu Toopua, indulging in an afternoon lazing on pool lounges tied off to the stern and sipping Moet. We dinghied around looking for snorkelling locations and checking out the very exclusive Conrad Hilton (minimum accommodation USD3K per night). We caught up briefly with Kevin and Mai from SV Whisper HR who were readying themselves for their passage to Tonga via Palmerston Island. Making use of the free mooring offered by Bloody Mary's, the iconic restaurant and a Bora Bora "must do", we enjoyed one of the best meals we have ever had ashore. This is the place visited by all the rich and famous, where you check your shoes at the door and enjoy a Polynesian "feet in the sand" experience whilst sipping on their signature Bloody Mary and their very unique Vanilla Rum Punch. We took a dinghy ride around the east coast of the island, marvelling at the many variegated shades of blue and enjoyed some local Hinano beers and burgers at a beachside snackette. We passed by the remains of the Hotel Bora Bora near Matira Beach; destroyed by Cyclone Oli in February 2010, it's a visual reminder as to why the coral reef within the lagoon are barren and bleached. All too soon, it was time for Denise and Brad to head home - we motored around to the airport anchorage and in another first, ferried them across to the terminal by dinghy!
We've now got just over 2 weeks remaining on our visas so we will spend what's left of our Froggy Poly time enjoying stunning surroundings here at Bora Bora and nearby (Taha'a and Raiatea are both less than 30NM away). We will then check out, take on our last duty free island diesel and continue westwards. We've spent this morning investigating downtown Vaitape, locating the Gendarmerie and sussing out provisioning options, even taking a slow meander through the Fenua Arts and Craft Market.
Whilst it's all been fun and frivolity here in the South Pacific, we've been devastated to see the aftermath of Hurricane Irma in the Caribbean. So many people and locations impacted; it's just heartbreaking to view footage, photos and first hand accounts of the destruction and chaos. Our thoughts are with everyone affected by this horrific storm - the road to recovery will be a long one. There are many amazing charities working hard to provide both immediate and long term assistance - Cruising World Magazine has just published a comprehensive list if you're considering donating.
Sunset - Ralph Von Loeben
We are really saddened to learn that Ralph, a friend and a colourful Fremantle Sailing Club identity, recently lost his brave battle against cancer. Our thoughts are with his beautiful wife Sandy and all the family at this time. Rest peacefully on calm seas Ralph.