French Polynesian Beauty
19 September 2017 | Bora Bora
Jill
As a child of the 60's, I grew up in a household where an exotic print of a Polynesian maiden was boldly displayed on the lounge room wall. I often thought it was odd that we had such a dusky beauty gracing our abode although I never once questioned how she came to be there. She disappeared during a decorating spree by my parents during the 1980's and before we arrived in French Polynesia, I had not considered her in years. My curiosity was rekindled in Nuku Hiva and with the aid of Google, I've discovered that her name is Tina; she was painted in 1961 by British artist Joseph Henry Lynch and mass-produced prints were sold in Woolworths and various other stores. Whilst not as luscious as Gauguin's vahines, Tina radiates a shy and exotic charm and it's kind of sad to think of her being no longer fashionable and unceremoniously discarded.
Both Paul and I have been overwhelmed with the natural beauty of these many varied islands, her people and her exotic flora. We've loved all our interactions with locals - the casual "Ia Orana" greetings from strangers as we pass by them on the streets, irrespective of location, go a long way to indicate that everyone is welcome here. Even where there have been language issues, primarily due to our almost non-existent French, we've felt in tune and have been able to communicate through a mix of Frenglish, mime and Google Translate. We've enjoyed shopping for fresh produce at local markets and roadside stalls. We've spent time wandering through the various craft markets, admiring the intricate carvings and collecting a few small trinkets. We've loved the effortless way both the ladies and the Mahu dress, glorious flowers either tucked behind an ear or woven into elaborate and ornate headdresses. We've noticed what is obviously a resurgence of traditional Polynesian tattoos, sported with pride by many, each symbolising significant cultural and life events. We've been thrilled by the soaring, lush and rugged scenery; the crystal clear and stunningly azure waters of the lagoons; the sea life and the coral gardens. We've completely enjoyed our immersion into Polynesian history and culture - from the tales of the cannibalistic head hunters of the Marquesas to the visual and very exciting dances favoured across all the archipelagos to the few remaining sacred tikis. To be in Papeete during Heiva was a truly memorable experience; the competitive and entertaining programme really bringing to life the spirit and grace of the islanders.
French Polynesia is as heady and seductive as the scent of the sacred Tiare flower and the vanilla beans that are harvested throughout her islands; as chilled as her calm and translucent waters; and as varied as the many hues of her cultivated black pearls. We have absolutely loved each and every location we have had the privilege of visiting and will cherish the memories of our time here. Who knows, perhaps a long-ago siren call of Tina was imbedded into my psyche and readied me decades ago for this lush green paradise.
We've got a good weather window so we've completed our check out procedures and are just waiting on the Gendarmes to process documentation and issue our international clearance. It's a two day process here - serious island time is obviously observed on Bora Bora! We've offloaded the last of our very colourful and pretty Pacific Francs and are excited to be to be moving on to new locations. We will be off the grid for around three weeks but will, as usual, complete daily position reporting and blog posts. Mauruuru Polynesia - it's been an awesome experience!