Spent 2 hot days in Bodram.
Picture of Elizabeth looking out for invading Crusaders from battlements of Bodram Castle
Reprovisioned but did not load water as the water available is not potable. We all had a great time in Bodram, the shopping was fantastic and even the marina had its own Masseratti and Skoda dealerships. No need to bring your own stereo as the nightclubs could deafen a person at two miles distant. Sleep through the noise would have been impossible but as I spent the night with an electric fan going flat out sitting on my chest I didn't really get the best out of the music! We all however would not have missed the experience of Bodram and consider it a must if ever passing by this way again. After spending half a day clearing out of Turkey with visits to all of various departments, Harbormaster (nz$10), Immigration and Customs we duly had all our papers stamped and loaded150 litres of diesel (nz$3.30 litre) and sailed off South East at 15:00 hours into the teeth of the Meltimi hoping to get an easing of the wind in the late evening but in the meantime we could get as far as Akyarlar before heading north once again.
Wind building to 30 knots meant that we decided to anchour off Akyarlar but our anchour had a different agenda and would let go in the larger 40 knt gusts. We were obviously not going to get any sleep here and the thought of bashing to windward during the night was not a popular option so we hauled the anchour on board and decided to poke our nose into the very small local fishing boat harbour that boasted a rock wall to tie to.
This harbour consisted of about an acre where there were some gullets on the outer end and all small fishing boats elsewhere.
Obvious to me that we could not stay there until a local fisherman and another yachty beckoned us in close, the fisherman asked our depth and on discovering that we only draw 1.8 metres said there was room for us. Well I am blowed if I could see a gap in the wall of small boats but with a bit of pushing and shoving the two of them made a gap in front of a small shed that we could just stick our bow into.
This is a hair-raising exercise as there are mooring ropes everywhere and a big boat like Elixir without a bow thruster and huge gusts of wind that like to take control in any unguarded moment and have a big influence even on the guarded moments. David and I managed to look calm (I think) and we manoeuvred us about with no damage to Elixir, the fishing boats or our collective egos as by now we were the one big :In town attraction. We stuck out about half a boat length from the fishing boats looking a lot like an ostrich with its head in a rabbit burrow but we were going to be safe for the night.
Jennifer contemplates getting back on board across the little fishing boats.
A quick little reconnoitre of the township revealed a sleepy village with half a dozen waterfront restaurants with only two or three patrons each leaving Jenny and I with the impression that to be a small businessman in Akyarlar did not equate to instant riches. We retreated back to the Yacht where David and Elizabeth had been busy with dinner duties. Duly fed and watered (well not exactly water but you get the drift) we all set out once again to find an internet cafe to check emails. Well what a transformation it was now about 9:30 pm and the place was swinging, it was like someone had said it was time to boogie. All the restaurants were chocka with people and excited faces of little kids running everywhere, there were icecreams and BBQs going in all directions, we felt that we were the only non Turkish there. Festivities went on right up until 4am when fishing boats started up and it was time to clear out. Apparently this is just a normal Monday night in Akyarlar. Jenny has developed a small challenge with her ears as she had a bit of a cold when flying up from NZ and she was suffering some pain. A bit of a discussion and it was decided to make for Kos where reliable medical facilities were available.
Leaving our little gap in the wall on the first light of dawn!
A lovely 7.5 knt sail ensued and we were safely tied up to the castle in the town basin of Kos by 09:00. Jenny and Elizabeth went off to find Doc while David went on a patisserie expedition for his and my morning tea. I found the marina man and paid him 30 euro for an overnight berth including power and water (unfortunately no WiFi). Lots of good water saw all the salt washed from the yacht.
After our cleanup with still no sign of the ships officers David and I were playing the Irish disc that we had acquired in Dublin when an Irish voice from the dock said he approved of our choice of music. An Irish tourist on a bike had stopped to listen to the music with a far away look in his eye. We were of course flying our Irish colours as Ireland being a EU country means that vessels registered there have some advantage over NZ or non EU boats. He and his wife, she was a Welsh lass, were invited on board for a cup of tea but we decided in the heat that it would not be very sociable of us not to offer a beer so we of course had to join them. 2pm and the officers have returned so lunch was the order and then afternoon naps. Jenny's ear it seems was of some concern to the local chemist who immediately made an appointment with an expert to have a look. A thorough examination and a prescription later has made all feel very happy with our choice of destination.