Having in the past enjoyed the sailing in many of the South Pacific wonder cruising areas like Tahiti, Northern Tonga, Fiji and Villa, I have to admit that this little set of Islands on the south coast of Turkey of Skopea Limani takes a lot of beating. The only thing removing it in my mind from being a sailing Utopia would be lack of good fishing which pleasurable pastime could be had in all of the other mentioned locations.
The scenery is spectacular and there is enough of a language problem just to add a bit of an exotic feel to the place. On our first day after obtaining a pancake breakfast from a passing enterprising couple we made our way slowly by engine to the bay that is bordered on its shores with ruins of Roman Baths and other artefacts from the pre Christian era.
Little restaurants were evident in most of the bays but the proprietors left us alone other than to offer us a berth at their variously rickety piers in the hope that we would stay. A polite not today thankyou was invariably accepted with good grace and a wave. Stopped for a swim and lunch at the entrance to tomb bay and it was there that we had a good chat to a group of Australians who had chartered a local boat for two weeks and who were lamenting the fact that two weeks in this location does not do it any justice at all.
After lunch a motor into Tomb Bay to observe from the deck the various social status degrees of tombs carved into the cliff faces. These are apparently dated from the Lycian era 600BC. Jenny was busy writing postcards, I assumed tomb it may concern. Eventually we made it right into Gocek where we were not expecting to find anything as delightful as the reality it is.
Large trees with ample foliage shade the clean swept walk areas that are adorned with comfortable and well furnished eating and drinking establishments taking advantage of the shade to offer refreshments at reasonable prices. Wifi was free from the restaurant where we stopped for coffee and so we sort of made this our base. We anchored off just to the West of the main town marina and sat very comfortably there for twenty four hours. Sunday morning and off we all went to the Sunday Markets.
Huge canvas awnings had been hoisted over a local parking lot under which there were literally hundreds of traders selling all manner of fruit, vegetables, clothing, toys and even Turkish delight. The exotic smell of freshly ground spices mixed with that of food being prepared was enchanting. All around deals were being noisily struck with the usual haggling being conducted in a friendly and non aggressive manner not seen in other parts of the world. Yes I enjoyed it immensely. Returned to Elixir around 13:00 and cast off for the outlying islands once again.
After finding yet another great ancourage on the Island of Tersane where we tied stern to the rocks. After sunset I spend a couple of hours rowing Jenny in and out of the little inlets along past ancient ruins and my mind drifted to be delights of accepting the hospitality of ancient spirits of real people floating in the long soft shadows and the gentle breeze of the warm nigh. I felt that we were welcome here and that far from disturbing their peace we were indeed just another raindrop in eternity that was passing their way. To pause, to properly recognise and then move on. It is now 04:49 on the 17th June and having just been on Skype chatting with Brother Steve I am amused to hear a Mexican wave of calling to preyer from the minuets of the Mosques situated along the coast.
It is today that we intend to put to sea again and make our way West to Serce Limani, a little bay some 52 miles away and from there on to Bozburun and expect to be there by about Friday. So until then just keep those home fires burning.
Ted
