Ionian Cruise 2013
It all started this year on leaving Auckland on 23rd July. It turned out to be a rather easy trip in most ways until we arrived in Greece, then it got a little interesting. Let me fill you in on the basic details
We flew out of Auckland on Jetstar having at the last minute scored a great deal and were upgraded to business class. Neither Jenny or I had ever flown Business Class before so this was a real treat resulting in a most pleasant 10 hour flight to Singapore. We had a two hour stopover before a further 1 hour flight and being met at the airport in Kuala Lumpur by my brother Ian.



Ian is also married to a Jenny and this, for a start, led to a bit of confusion back when they got married but me being the older brother got to keep my Jenny whilst Ian had a change of name for his darling who is now known in the family as Jenny-May, May being her second name.



Confusion was thus put to rest and the name is most suitable for Jenny-May and she is and has now been for many years a welcome member of both our personal and International Family.



Jenny May has some interesting little friends that rather took a shine to us too.
A full on 3 days in KL was accomplished with copious re-energising supplied in the form of the fantastic top notch tasty food available it seems at every little destination. They sure know how to treat their little fat Bro! I bought some new glasses for me and a new battery for my laptop. Jenny and Jenny May hit it off as usual and flicked, seamlessly it appears, straight back into full afterburner shopping mode as was left off last year. My God it was hot, the shopping and the temperature!
Leaving Kuala Lumpur at midnight on the 26th July we fly 10 hours non stop on Malaysian Air to Istanbul where 4 hours later we board Olympic Air for the 1 hour flight to Athens.



Arrive Athens at 12:05 on 27th July and make a mad dash for the Long Distance Bus Terminal which is situated right across the other side of Athens from the International Airport and a 40 Euro taxi ride. The bus for Preveza leaves Athens at 1:30 sharp and it cannot be pre booked. While SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) was taking it all in her stride and loving the heat I was feeling the effects of a bad attack of the what ifs. What if we miss the bus! What if we have to drag our luggage around Athens trying to finds a hotel for cheap, what if we met up with David Hicks's and my old pick pocketing mates, what if it gets any hotter and I pass out in the heat! The taxi driver was marvellous, talking incessantly and got us to the bus on time and just like SWMBO said there was a spare seat for us. 1000!! degrees by this time and dripping sweat and no doubt smelling rather interesting. We claimed our seats and I started to ease up on the stress for a wee while. Well then we found out that this bus does not go directly to Preveza, where our Elixir would be waiting for us, but it goes the circuitous route and would take 6.5 hours and guess what... the air-conditioning was not working and as mentioned we had not acclimatised as yet. One could not drink copious water to ward off the heat as we had only one pit stop scheduled. I need not have worried I just expelled all moisture through my skin and soaked my shirt and all.
Sundown on the 27th July we get off the bus and grab a taxi straight to Cleopatra Marina and the welcoming bosom of Elixir.



Ok she was left in a bit of a rush last year and SWMBO was not beyond making the odd snort of disapproval as to how I had left everything. Hey! I am but mortal and a man to boot. I come from the old school of sailors that can use a teatowel for three weeks without washing it, that is if you even had one on board in the first place! There was a ladder conveniently on the boat next to ours that was purloined for the night to allow access and we hoisted our luggage on board with a line that we dangled over the side. Used the marinas showers and went straight to our bunks after find some pasta in the cupboards to do for dinner. 8pm and 33 degrees for heaven's sake!
28 July a full day of washing, scrubbing, rerunning the running rigging, furling on sails and generally getting ready for t he splash scheduled for 11am tomorrow. We did at least start the dy with a good breakfast from the Marina Café.
29 July New 20lb Anchor attached with the Bruce now consigned in disgrace to being the spare even behind the Danford, stuff it, it had let go too often to warrant any retrial.



11am and we are all reunited with the water. One half turn on the start motor and the good 65hp Volvo motor purred into life and we moved out of the marina into the gulf to anchor, have swim, lunch and then motor on over to Preveza town quay to go stern to. At Preveza we do the legal thing and visit the port police who duly stamped to death our cruising papers and we pay a small fee for the privilege of going stern to as mentioned. We then got all our internet sorted for Elixir and for Jenny's iPhone. For the record and the techno minded, 40 Euro gave me a Sim with 5 gig of internet for my Samsung Galaxy which I can make into a personal Wi-Fi for the whole ship, great stuff. A good night was spent after being reunited with a Gyros for tea. Oh yes and we found that our heads (toilets) had both calcinated over the year with the calcium completely blocking the outlets, but with the help of our New Zealand Maori Drill (other wise known as a wire kotanga) I managed to unblock and return to full working order albeit with a few new parts and a lot of aching muscles and cuts and bruises obtained from working in such confined spaces. SWMBO must have a place to go you know! Even if she has to make do with the porcelain until I can buy a new seat after the poor captain being so clumsy as to break the fitting! I was reminded about every hour with regard to the urgency of this particular maintenance purchase!

Wednesday 31 July 2013



06:00 Having had a good night's sleep, which event is amazing as I have never had one in Preveza before, we slipped our moorings and headed out the bay entrance along the well marked and clearly lit channel in company with four other yachts. Getting back to last night in Preveza, it is my habit when overheated (most of the time) to spend the night sleeping outside in Elixir's cockpit, so as a result I am totally aware of the street noises and all the other goings on around me, like the coming and going of cruising yachts, the rubbish collection trucks, and the early morning call of the stray motorbikes, this night however, Preveza's dubious call to fame of its loudest disco in Greece must have had a hiccup, perhaps the dejay, curse his damned hide, had been overcome with heat prostration or I have gotten a lot deafer since last year, I dunno but whatever it was I hope the rest of Preveza enjoyed the break from the confounded overthetop cacophony as much as I did! Back to the beat so to speak, Jenny and I hoisted the main just out from the town quay and then unfurled the full genoa on the run down the bay. If I was a religious man I would have been singing hallelujah! The magnificence of the breaking dawn, the bubbling of water under our stern, the creaking of the sheets getting a workout, Elixir healing to the morning breeze, I would not call the king my uncle, life does not get much better than this. The water running down my cheek was not tears I tell you, it was caused by concentrating on the next mark in the channel. We had the most delightful sail under full canvas, Elixir was kicking up her heals and having a ball along with us, even SWMBO had a smile from ear to ear for the whole 7.5 mile trip south to the entrance of the Lefkas canal. I was delighted to find all my instruments, auto pilot (George) and everything working just fine.

Navigations systems are all go and thus we precisely made the small entrance into the canal which I must admit is almost impossible to pick out from seaward using number one eyeball, so some other means of locating it is a must. A wrong choice here and you are on the putty with no tide to lift you off.



We had to anchor Elixir in the narrow channel waiting for the bridge to open which it does on the hour during the day to let yachts and launces through. SWMBO had her customary cup of green tea whilst I had cup of coffee and we were both very happy with the world, actually she did not even complain going through the cold bottom routine with the porcelain. I made a mental note to look out for a good chandlers where I could score a new seat for her, er, I mean the heads, not wishing her to be the butt of any jokes, so to speak.
08:00 the siren went and the bridge began to swing back. By now there was a bunch of boats in the roads waiting to move south and on the south side another swarm of yachts and super yachts impatiently revving their engines waiting for the gap to open wide enough for them to move North.



Tradition has it that the south travelling boats go first but half of the knuckleheads don't know or don't care and it becomes a free for all.





Everybody has a lot of humour and there are lots of waves and banter as the boats pass each other without incident. We motor the 3.5 miles of canal and pass Lefkada Town at the northern end observing the full town quay and determining to get there in the afternoon when sailing on the way back north if we have any hope of scoring a good spot for a bit of shopping, R & R, and various other modes of socialising.
09:00 Going South and full sail again and with the wind at 10 knots, we had a beat on our hands. All great stuff with a lot of other yachts around of all types and sizes so there was always a lesser mortal to pass. It was magic sailing until the wind dropped out altogether and we had to furl all of the sails. We stopped ship mid bay and both of us went over the side for a swim in the tepid, blue, clear water. Back on board and iron spinnaker burst into life and at 1800 revs we rippled through the water doing 6 knots. This was our mode of sail as we passed Nidri, then Scopious, of Jackie Onassis fame, on down the east coast of Lefkas. Precious little wind so it was not worth trying to move under sail, anyway we were content with what sailing we had had during the morning and so ate our Greek Salads on deck washed down with a cold beer and a white wine for she who has yet to conform to tradition. But I am working on it! At least this way the beer stocks seem to last better. As evening approached we called into a Bay named Dessimou where we knew our Australian friends, one of them being my cousin, were at moorings with their yacht Kristiane. Well Paddy and Carolyn Mitchell seemed as delighted to see us as we were to see them. It has been a year since we last shared an anchorage and we had a lot of catching up of news and things to do.







Dinner was had ashore at a little taverna that I must say was one of the better ones that we had ever experienced, made all the nicer for the company.
I did not tell one lie I tell you! Paddy and Carolyn were sailing in company with an English Couple Keith and Carol who own a home in Wanganui and are just completing their second circumnavigation of the world in their yacht Kirsten Jane. Well it was a black, black night when we finally boarded our rubber duckys to return to our respective yachts and I must say that getting used to a rubber ducky again after a year away is nothing short of hilarious with both Jenny and I ending up with salt water wet bottoms. Okay so it now looks like we will need a patch for one of our pontoons!



09:00 1st of August and all three yachts leave Dessimou for Vasiliki at the extreme south west of Lefkas and famous for its kite surfers and sailboarders. We arrived there and anchored in 8 metres of clear blue water on thick sand so we knew the holding would be exceptionally good as indeed it would need to be, knowing the reputation for wind around here. The wind did not let us down as it howled in the rigging for most of the late afternoon and evening while we were treated to a magnificent display of athleticism by the for mentioned wind hoons. Tomorrow we will replenish fresh supplies and head off to Fiskardo on Cephalonia. We hit the hay knowing that the names of the individual Greek Islands will never ever lose their charm for us.



02 August 2013 10:00 With a slight breeze coming from the South, just where we want to go, SWMBO and I hoist all our sail and start a beat to windward. Destination Fiskardo on the Island of Cephalonia just 10 miles away in a straight line, with it being a dead beat it will increase the sail distance to say 15 Miles. It is however a beautiful day with hardly any sea running at all. Kirsten Jane left the anchorage first followed shortly thereafter by Kristiane, Kirsten Jane motored while Kristiane motor sailed under jib alone, they were about an hour ahead of us getting away. It would be fair to comment that perhaps Elixir was better setup and faster for this sort of on the wind sailing, without all the live aboard gear needed by the true live aboards. Jenny and I really enjoyed the two hour sail as I am sure did Elixir especially as the wind rose to a good 12 knots during the crossing. We were now traversing the Ionian at the place where Chris, David and I first entered Greece in 2007 on a day very similar to this one. SWMBO was looking forward to arriving at Fiscardo as she remembered all of the lovely shops and the holiday atmosphere with joyful crowds, a lot like Mount Maunganui between Xmas and New Year.

"
Elixir


Kristiane


Kirsten Jane

I however remembered the anchorage as being a bit of a challenge as Super Yachts, Cruisers, Launches and all other manner of craft all drop their anchors, seemingly, in a pile in the middle of the very small bay and then reverse in with various amounts of skill and speed into ever so tiny spaces made vacant from time to time by departing craft.









Once established in a spot all this becomes another source of entertainment with the odd arrival of a large ferry just at critical times just adding a wildcard into the jostling game. If ones neighbouring yacht, mega launch or what have you decides to leave making a new space for a waiting craft then it is all hands to the fenders as one very anxiously watches the skills, or otherwise, of the new arrival to ensure that it is not controlled by a lunatic and to ensure that no damage is done to one's own boat. I always felt very nervous at these times so I like to avoid them if at all possible by anchoring out and using the rubber ducky to ferry various crew members ashore. That is just what we did on this occasion.



I dropped SWMBO into the shops and was glad that it was she and not me that is incharge of the holiday fund as I was quite sure that it was about to be tried as to stretchability. I returned to Elixir on my own to enjoy an afternoon of observation and enjoyment through all of the comings and goings. It is no wonder that Fiskardo is considered the Riviera of Greece. Evening came and all crew including the reluctant me were required ashore for a meal. This was actually the third time I had visited Fiskardo and just the very first time that I had set foot ashore. So having broken my record I decided to have a good old walk around. It is such an amazing small town that was the only one that left standing after a devastating earthquake of 1953 decimated most of the other Island villages.
















The houses were a mix of Greek and Italian influences with an abundance of colourful flowers and bright borganvillia and geraniums. Using Chris's theory of back street dining being best and cheapest we did just that, the back street being just 20 metres from the waterfront. The service was delightful and the food great and all up very reasonably priced with a cost of 25 euro a head, including drinks, for the whole evening. SWMBO announced that she had loved this place so much she was going to spend another full day here, there was no invitation for argument.

03 August and we just sat on our anchor whilst the ships providore did her thing ashore.



Our two Admirals, Carolyn and Jenny, trying to look casual while surreptitiously checking to see if Paddy and I had noticed their interest in the shoe and dress shops that proliferate around here!

04 August and we discover that whilst we had not picked up any existing boat's anchor we had however hooked over a long abandoned one and had a lot of difficulty untangling the rusty chain from our hook. With the help of our good winch, a pint and a half of sweat, and a strong piece of mooring line we did indeed manage to untangle ourselves without resorting to diving.



I recuperated during the 14 mile motor around the top of Ithaca as we headed for Vathi thereon. Spoke with the other two yachts in our company over the VHF before Kristiane and Elixir pulled in to a wonderful bay for a swim, lunch on board and afternoon naps. This cruising can be hell at times! Anchoring in 8 metres with the bottom being as clear as fresh run bathwater is was indeed heaven.

05 August we refuelled and re watered at the fuel jetty. We paid for the fuel then moved further into the bay so SWMBO could go to the shops to get me a shirt with long sleeves, needed because my arms had still not healed from a overdose of sunburn and blisters. Anyway as I was getting the rubber ducky ready to receive its passenger I missed my footing and went down between Elixir and the dingy much to the amusement of SWMBO who having discovered that I had not hurt myself allowed herself to partake of some unbecoming joviality. She was duly delivered ashore by a very sullen wet boatswain for whom she bought the required shirt.





We stayed a further night in the bay and had a wonderful tea out with Paddy and Caroline.



06 August 06:00 Having fully recovered from the meal of the night before we waved a tear-filled goodbye to our friends who were heading off towards Sicily and Malta.
So once again being on our own we set a course for the north end of Meganisi where we hoped to find Zee Kiwi at anchor. Zee Kiwi is owned by John and Erin whom we had met at drinks at their waterside home in Omaha back in June.
It was a picturesque crossing under motor and plenty of time to catch up on radar skills and a bit of house tidying. We found Zee Kiwi anchored with a stern line ashore in a deep bay called Port Atheni. John and Erin came to Elixir in the evening and we had a great time getting to know them and enjoying a few drinks. Jenny and I had been over to Zee Kiwi earlier in the day for a cup of tea. I now have a big respect for large catamarans, wow what a beautiful boat and one could hold a good cricket match in the cockpit! Airconditioning is supplied by a hatch into the gap between the hulls downstairs so is cooled by the sea itself. There is plenty of room for boogying and all cabins are very large and spacious. Luxury living at its most enjoyable. We were sad to wave goodbye early next morning as we moved north again in our objective to reach Albania in a week.



07 August and we are stern too at the town quay at Levkas by midday and I immediately procure a Gyros from across the street to satisfy my need for a real meaty lunch washed down with a couple of cold beers.

That night we found a chandler and bought for Elixir a brand new shiny toilet seat. One which jenny was not going to be able to christen until the next day when we are at sea again as in port we only use the porta potty. 08 August we left at 5:45 to make the 6:00 opening of the Lefkas bridge and having achieved that set sail for 2 rock bay, a distance of some thirty miles north and part of the Greek mainland. All got to use the new purchase on the voyage and deemed it the best toilet seat ever!



We had never been to 2 rock bay before and only knew we could fit in there after talking with John and Erin. It was big enough for them then it would be okay for us, notwithstanding that we have a greater depth requirement due to our two metre deep keel. Well this bay was a find and a half, so picture perfect it would make a great postcard. No shops or tavernas but a sandy beach and just a small handful of other cruisers. We swam and watched the sun set during happy hour, ate a good meal in the cockpit then slept the sleep of the just.

06:00 09 August and small sail up the coast to Epirus by the island of Syvota.











Just a small coastal town that gets geared up for the summer season. We went ashore to find dinner and in the process met a lovely Grecian Goddess called Alexia Bankoavala who served us our meal. Alexia is an English teacher during the year and helps out her friends in the Taverna during the holidays. She filled us in on how things have changed as times have been hard for the ordinary Greek population and all must get extra work wherever they can just to make ends meet and provide for their families. She was a great hostess and we hope that we will not lose touch with her. She tells us that her home is in Preveza so with luck we will catch up with her there.











By Rubber Ducky Back to Elixir's waiting bunks.

08:00 10 August and head off to Corfu. Now here is the rub. Once a year we are obliged to take Elixir out of the European Union to retain our ability to stay there and this year the closest non EU country is Albania. So Albania here we come.







First we have to export Elixir and her crew out of Greece and this must be done at a Port of Entry such as Preveza or Corfu. We anchor in a bay away for the Corfu city as there is nowhere there to be able to stay onboard in safety and comfort as the main port is all taken up by ferries and cruise ships. 11 August and we hire a motor scooter for 25 Euros and head off the 8km into town thereon. Remembering from time to time that they all drive on the wrong side of the road over here! This is not all hard as there is plenty of traffic to follow it is only in the back streets where it can get a bit tricky. Several hours later and we have our paperwork stamped to death and make our way into the old City of Corfu to reunite our delight from last year. Having ones own bike is the way to go and made it a lot better from a convenience point of view by cutting down on the necessity to walk far in the 33 deg heat. Back to Elixir in the evening armed up with supplies and all things necessary to make the short 14 mile trip to Albania.



08:00 12 August we retrieve our anchor and slip away under motor for the trip to Albania.


What a strange looking craft moored at Corfu. At first I thought I may have drunk way too much, or, eaten too much Greek salad!

I rang our contact in Albania, Agim Zhol, on Jenny's phone to inquire if all was convenient for us to arrive at Sarande at say 10:30. He told us that indeed it was, so nothing else for it but to sit back, relax and enjoy the trip, take in the scenery, remove our Greek courtesy flag from our spreaders and our New Zealand ships flag from our stern, replacing it with our large Irish one. Remembering that internationally we are an Irish registered ship it still feels a little strange for us to sail under the green white and orange colours of Ireland with our New Zealand accents. My mother was half Irish and I enjoyed my secondary schooling over there so it was not entirely without justification. Owning a European Union Ship makes it a lot easier gaining entry to various ports for us than it is for those New Zealanders who have their boats registered under the NZ Flag. We must fly our registered Flag on entering and leaving a country but once entered then we seem to be able to swap back to being New Zealanders, seamlessly, without any to do at all.





Agim met us at the visitors quay with his beautiful young assistant and directed us to a spot right beside the Police Mooring area where we tied stern to where both water and electricity was immediately made available to us. What a great first impression. The wharf was clean and secure with plenty of room. Right along side was a beach running the length of the main shopping area of Sarande with thousands of locals and tourists enjoying the water, sun and other beach type facilities. Agim ferried our passports and Ships Papers off to get formalised and we were told just to go wherever we pleased and to enjoy ourselves. This we did. A walk along the promenade gave us the opportunity to talk with Albanians and compare prices and shop choices with those in Greece. Here we were delighted to find that the people were friendly and eager to help. Prices were marvellously reasonable and the services top class. The standard of finish of the buildings and developments were commiserate with a struggling economy however the local people seemed to us to be happy and really ready to welcome visitors. We ate out for dinner at a seafood restaurant that had been recommended by Agim. The meal was first class and Jenny really enjoyed her accompanying local dry white while I dealt to a local beer. Fresh bread and salad also was supplied to accompany our meal. All up cost 14 Euro each, that is about $30 NZ in total. To cap it all off we stocked up on fresh fruit, of which there was plenty for choice and we bought a pile of groceries.



Agim returned our paperwork all stamped and legal. He seemed a little disappointed that we were only staying the one night however we had no idea what we were going to find when we arrived in Albania and we certainly did not expect it to be as good as it was.

So when we cast off next morning for the short trip back to Greece we looked back on the experience as being one of our highlights and I have no hesitation in recommending it to others as a safe and efficient place to step outside from the EU for a day or two.





13 August was a windless affair so we just puttered back to Corfu from Sareande stopping twice out in the sea for swims in the heat of the day arriving at Gouvia at 4pm, just in time for another swim and a bit of a sleep before the daily routine happy hour.





We pass close to some beautiful bays on the way back to Corfu.

Happy hour is a daily routine amongst New Zealanders designed, I contend, to ward off any chances of getting, scurvy, beriberi, malaria, diphtheria or anything else one can think of. For us, being extra conscious of these things it consisted of white wine for SWMBO, black rum, with thinners, for yours truly, accompanied by cheese, crackers, pickled olives, sliced gherkins, chippies and anything else at hand, all deemed entirely suitable to ward off the devil himself.


14 August and off into the Marina, by rubber ducky, to rent a scooter again. Utilising the said 75cc beast we go back to the Police, Customs, Passport Control and back to the Police again and complete re-entry formalities. Being all legal again and back in the European Union we set off to the Western side of Corfu to find a nice place to have lunch which we found under some trees overlooking a picturesque bay.



A few hours later sporting sore bottoms from the unaccustomed seating we return the bike, swim in the marina swimming pool, collect a few things from the supermarket and are all back on board by 6pm just in time for Happy hour again.



15 August we sail 19 miles over to the mainland where we anchored for the night in a bay called Valtos Cove (Mullett Cove) located just North of Igoumenitsa which a fellow New Zealander that we had met at Customs in Corfu had mentioned to us. He told us that it is in a fish farming area away from speed boats and such and being well sheltered the only thing that will keep one awake at night would be the slapping of bass as they jump out of the water all around the boat.

Well so it turned out to be another great find, however, it was a popular anchorage for boats wishing to get away from the madding crowds so it ended up being really quite social.



We were the only NZ flag fluttering in the evening breeze once again.




16 August, we sail on a broad reach for Paxoi 21 Miles away and back stern to to the small island off the Town with our anchor in the stream. We have anchored here before and indeed have had some adventures provided by wild water rats. This small Island is a sanctuary for which there is no program to rid it of rats so they have had a pretty untouched existence for years and years. True to form SWMBO (Jenny) was a little uptight about sharing her boat with even the thought of uninvited rodents. Skipper (me), damn him to hell, apparently thought nothing of it and did not take directions properly enough given the seriousness of the situation. Yep we got a brief visit from a little brown scuttler which Skipper, bless him, chased all around Elixir, being careful of course not to get too close! Mr ratty retreated down our stern line to the sanctuary. Next morning it was me into town by rubber ducky to make a purchase from the hardware store of two shiny bright rat preventers to go over our stern lines. Peace broke out on Elixir and skipper was fed once again. In fact I felt so confident that I slept out in the cockpit that night to watch with great amusement all of the goings on aboard the other boats as they got their share of the little visitors. I felt quite smug really, with our shiny new preventers. It was all really quite entertaining. About 2am and SWMBO awoke in the forward cabin to find a friendly rodent chewing her big toe, scream, pandemonium, accusations, declarations and most vile language, she has become after all quite a sailor I think! Apparently one does not laugh on these occasions and one certainly does not doubt the accuracy of the observation imparted! The bloody thing had come up the anchor chain and was making a feast of SWMBO and what is more she had the small puncture marks on her toe and blood to show for the occasion. Ratty got one hell of a fright and shot into the compartment under the fridge that we leave open for fridge motor ventilation. Ratty was safe but not to worry SWMBO turned her guns on the one other vile being (Self) contained on this vessel. Self set the one and only trap that we had and waited for the snap that would inevitably end the life of poor Ratty. The snap didn't come so I declared that Ratty must have left the ship and took himself back to bed. Had he left the ship? Noooo! but he now had the run of it. Not in the main cabins, you understand, as he was well enclosed behind all of the joinery and such where he could live away from the dramas being enacted elsewhere on board.
17 August and we sail 15 miles over to Two Rock Bay on the Mainland and there we spend a peaceful and picturesque night before tackling the 25 mile southerly trip down to Lefkada. Heard the trap go snap and that was the end for poor old ratty, we felt relieved for us however I could not help but feel a bit sorry for the poor wee fellow getting the death penalty for having the gall to check out the taste of SWMBOs royal toes. Unfortunately for Ratty there are a lot of Herras in this world for whom forgiveness is not in their nature. With little further ado he was unceremoniously buried at sea.



A boisterous bunch of Dolphins lead the way

We stay two nights in Lefkada then sail further South again to Nidri. At Nidri by 11 am and we drop two large loads of washing to the Laundry. 20 Euro and all gets washed dried and folded. That is a good deal as it is hard to tackle a large amount of washing on the boat.

Back to Preveza and it is goodbye for another year