Captains Log 02 August 2008
Woke to a drop in the wind and the very definite decision to depart the marina 29/07/08. A quick trip by Ted to the marina office to settle last minute accounts and get a departure clearance.
Slipped our mooring at 10:33 and motored quietly out of Marmaris Harbour and out into the big blue wobbly stuff. Main hoisted which took a little time as David and I had to rerun our reefing lines having stowed the main below for the winter. Found that the lazy jacks had got covered in grime and would make our sail very dirty indeed if we continued the hoisting so the lazy jacks were stripped off and washed in warm water and detergent, black water being tipped overboard. All ship shape and handsome with full sail and some 20 knots of wind on the nose, of course. We have however accepted that for the first few days we will need to rely heavily on the donkey as sailing to windward is considered by SWMBO as not part of the promised idyllic Mediterranean experience and the Meltimi is in full season. Sailed westward along the Turkish coast to a delightful little harbour, Serce, where we anchored alongside NZs Terry and Lois Rogeres and their home of the last three years Alpha Crucis. We were accosted by the carpet man from Istanbul who had obviously tracked us down to here and got hold of a dingy and rowed out with carpet samples! So for the sake of peace of mind we succumbed and with the help of D & E bought a lovely 1m long carpet for the bottom of the companionway steps. The brilliant red blue and gold patterned mat really lifts the inside of the yacht and looks great against the shiny interior. Jenny and Elizabeth had fun looking through the mans dingy for items of pottery and such that they assured David and I were a real bargain. Perhaps if we spent enough money we could afford to come back next year! And buy a car on the savings! Dinner that night at the little restaurant at the Western end of the harbour left us with a feeling of being just a little overcharged. Hey! they have to make a living and there were not a lot of diners, just us and two other couples was their lot for the day. 30/07/08 and we lifted our anchor at 06:30 having decided to push on to the Greek Island of Symi, a quiet trip apart from the motor drone as there was little wind, we did get some assistance for a while from our genoa helping the motor but it did not last long. Hot! Hot! And then hotter! We were so glad of our boom tent that we had hauled in our luggage from NZ. Symi is located some 20/30 miles north of Rhodes and is popular with day trippers from there with a 4 or 5 ferry movements a day. The Pilot (Rod Heikell) describes it as being like discovering an exotic plant in the desert.
Unlike most of the Greek Islands that we visited last year the dominant colour here is terracotta tiled roofs and a paler more earthy colouring in the structures. Bit scary going into the inner harbour with lots of boat traffic and anxious looking crew as each new prospect for any little space arrives.
Our NZ flag must have had them all bluffed as it did not compute as being usual so caused a little more anxious attention. We managed to find a hole in the wall of moored yachts dropped our anchour in the stream and backed into the gap to tie stern to at the town wall.
I installed the boarding plank and was virtually mobbed by J and E who had been ogling and waiting purse in hand to discover the bustling shops all along the water line. Approached in the next five minutes by a man to say that we had to get out of our good little spot as the space was needed by the ferry due in 10min. A bit of a scramble as all the boats had to move out. We hoisted our anchour to discover that we had caught a 50 ton gullet boat. David had it sorted though and with some help from the gullet releasing his chain we hoisted the gulletts chain up to the deck, wrapped a line around it and removed it from our anchour. Shortly thereafter we did find a more longterm spot. One has to keep a watch on the constant serge caused by the traffic movement so I was less than impressed with this as being anything more than just a anxious time against an unforgiving wall.
We had electricity (8 euro a day) and water available but no wifi. J & E reprovisioned the perishables and found a good butcher with excellent bacon to stock up on. Other ...I am assured essential... shopping was secreted on board by J & E and over the next few days D and I were made aware of new dresses and cooler items of clothing being proudly worn. 31/07/08 and we have left Symi early with lots of camera clicking. A 56ft Grand Sololie left with us as we made our way about 2miles northeast to a small gap between Symi and a little off lying island. As we got closer we spotted a Gullett (one of many) heading for the gap. The chart shows a rocky patch on the port half of the gap so we coined the phrase ...Dont be a mullet just follow that Gullett... Our GPS showed us to be safely travelling on land so no good relying on that! A few more hot hours of motoring and we entered into Kargi Koyu. This bay of some 5 acres in size on the Turkish coast is picture postcard stuff with lots of greenery and white sand. A small wharf with two yachts backed into, a shop and the obligatory restaurant made up the social activity. We anchored off and had a good swim and cool down before lunch and a welcome chance to rediscover the inside of my eyelids. We later found that good water was available at a small charge from the wharf so we decided to top up our tanks before heading Westward towards Knidos, about 12 miles of Westing. Motored out of Kargi Koyu and after 4 miles spotted a dark blue line on the water in the distance, yes it had to be the Meltimi, and sure enough as the line got darker and closer there were flashes of white. A quick tidy up of all things movable and the main hoisted to the second reefing point and we were ready for a bit of sailing. A boisterous sail ensued and J had her sea legs put to the test, hmmm! They were wanting just a bit! She kept her coleslaw stayed stowed, only just, so she quickly regained her brighteyes once we entered into the shelter of Knidos Harbour.
Elexir is the white yacht in the centre with the front row being taken up with the Turkish Gulletts.
Knidos has lost none of its mystique and attraction since our last visit and this time with legals all in place we were able to go ashore on try to fully explore the ancient city.
Next morning 01/08/08 David and I climbed up to the upper levels, the view being worth all of effort. Still shake my head in wonder how they moved such massive stones into such large and impressive walls so many centuries ago. 13:00 and we are off on the 20 mile leg to Bodrum, motor sailing all the way and arrived in Bodrum at 18:00 to a welcome marina berth and a swim in their rooftop pool.
Dinner at a waterfront restaurant last night (nz$120 for 4 including wine). A good sleep and here I am in the cool of the early morning finishing off this log for now.