15 August 2010 | Jaji, Venezuela
15 August 2010 | Venezuela
15 August 2010 | Merida, Venezuela
15 August 2010 | Merida, Venezuela
15 August 2010 | Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
12 July 2010 | Tortuga, Venezuela
07 July 2010 | Navimca, Venezuela
07 July 2010 | Cumana, Venezuela
07 July 2010 | Cumana, Venezuela
07 July 2010 | Makro Store, Cumana, Venezuela
Crappy Crepe Dinner
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
I was anxious to have a crepe before leaving the French islands and this was going to be my last chance so we went to the marina restaurant for dinner. It was a lovely dining area with candlelight and anticipated to be a special treat. We arrived at 6 and were told that dinner was not served until 7. So we sat patiently for an hour enjoying the ambiance. I waited with anticipation for my crepe dinner, while Bill ordered a half a chicken. Yes, I had a bite before I decided to take the photo. We were both terribly disappointed in our dinners as they were very mediocre.
We went back to the dinghy and tried the key (which we had cut in St. Pierre) and it wouldn't open the lock we had secured the dinghy with. We tried several times without success. It was getting late and the probability of finding someone with bolt cutters was next to nil. Finally Bill asked a local if he might give Bill a ride to our boat in his dinghy so he could get another key. The man agreed, somewhat reluctantly, and away they went. I waited at the dock with the dinghy... and waited and waited. The men finally returned and Bill looked rather embarrassed. He admitted he couldn't find our boat in the dark and took this man on a wild goose chase through the huge harbour. Eventually they did locate it, he got another key and back they came. Bill gave him a generous gift for his efforts and away we went back to the boat. It was quite a night. Our lesson was to never leave home with only one key for the dinghy.
Mangrove Protection
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
We had heard stories about boats tying up to the mangroves in a hurricane but were now able to witness how they did it. Several boats in Le Marin chose to do this and it appeared they were undamaged. Now we know how they do it in case we have to resort to that in the future. It is true that often concrete docks can do more damage than mangroves. Fortunately we had a double berth in Rodney Bay Marine, St. Lucia, and posts out behind the dock to tie to so we could prevent smashing into the dock.
Another major concern in a hurricane is not only other boats but roofing and things that become airborne. We had some concern about a lean to on the shore and it did sustain damage to the roof but didn't go flying.
Oceanfront Graveyard
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
Many graves in these islands are above ground, but contain the remains of several members of a family. They are also often located on prime, waterfront property, the sites probably chosen before the community was developed.
The Way to Fort de France
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
This is the road to Fort de France which is a huge city and one we chose not to visit. It took a long time to sail by it, which we did three times (having had to pass it on our way back to Dominica). The buildings here are interesting, mixed with ruins from the past and a mural painted on the wall. I just thought it was an interesting photo. What do you think?
Boats on Boats
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
Le Marin has a huge marina where most of the charters in the eastern Caribbean originate. Row upon row of charter boats are lined up at the docks as well as at anchor. They have a huge French clientele as it is difficult to meet anyone who isn't French. We encounter charter boats continually, some of them bareboat charters and some with a captain who caters to the clients. What a fleet of boats they have in service from a number of different companies. It is very big business in the Caribbean.
Mmmm, Pig Snouts
20 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
We scored well in Le Marin at their top-notch supermarket, Leader Price. They had excellent variety and reasonable prices. We stocked up on some treats for special occasions, like Camembert cheese and French wine.
I couldn't resist taking a photo of these pig snouts. Imagine finding that on a supermarket shelf in Canada. We can't imagine how they would be cooked or what they would taste like, and don't have a lot of interest in finding out. These countries utilize every inch of a pig, including feet, tail and now snout. By the number of buckets for sale on this counter, there is obviously a market for them.
Stark Reminder
13 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
These boats got tangled during Hurricane Dean and still haven't been recovered two weeks after the event. There are several boats in Le Marin that were damaged and remain pushed up on shore or hung up on sand bars.
We had been traveling since about 4 a.m. from St. Pierre and decided to take refuge in Le Marin while another tropical storm passed by. We had hoped to hook onto a mooring ball but were kicked off the one we tried, learning that it was privately owned and the owners would be back later. There were no other mooring balls available so after a few tries we managed to anchor (with two anchors). The storm was predicted to pass around 8 p.m. so we sat in the cockpit, with the key in the ignition, ready to move if necessary. By 9 p.m. fatigue got the best of us and we had just had a few big gusts, so we decided to go to bed. We kept one ear on the storm which didn't amount to much. We were on the north end of it as it passed near Grenada, but was upgraded to Hurricane Felix the next day.
Stripped Bare
12 September 2007 | Le Marin, Martinique
Hurricane Dean did most of its destruction on the south end of Martinique, but mostly agricultural. The trees on this hillside have been stripped off and look like British Columbia in the late fall.
We took refuge in Le Marin to wait for another tropical depression to pass (which turned out to be Hurricane Felix).
Telephone Booth or Atrium? Yes
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
The jungle grows wherever it chooses. I'm pretty sure I had a vine like this at home. In these tropical countries a tree can support several species of vines and ferns.
St. Pierre has been an interesting stop. The downside of the French islands is they are very expensive as the French government adds their share. However, there is no charge to clear into the country and they are very relaxed about allowing cruisers to visit their islands along the way before they reach a check-in point.
Hurricane Damage Again
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
After our visit to the Distillery, we took an alternate route back to town and passed a crew working on this house that was destroyed during the hurricane. We hope nobody was inside at the time. What surprised us was the damage in the mountains but apparently the wind gets trapped there and whirls around and around before it is released. In open spaces it just keeps traveling.
Our hike back to town was on a highway with no sidewalks (in the rain) but was a little shorter than the hike up. We marvel at all the exercise we get on an outing. We initially waited for a bus but when nothing came after quite a wait, we headed out.
Depaz Distillery
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Finally, we arrived at the Depaz Distillery and its immaculate grounds. The machinery is run by a steam engine and the volcanic water is from Mt. Pelee. There is a self-guided tour and a tasting area for sampling some of their products before buying. Prices were very reasonable.
We waited for the rain to slow to a drizzle and took the self-guided tour.
Sugarcane Fields
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Our guide book said it was about a half-hour hike to the Depaz Distillery. It turned out to be well over an hour and we encountered pouring rain. On the way up we walked past countless fields of young sugarcane. We were amazed at how well organized these fields were without a trace of weeds anywhere. They probably belong to the Distillery we were hiking to.
Along the way during a major downpour, we spotted a man outside his home with an open breezeway and asked permission to take shelter. It turned out it was a home for seniors, and it was immaculate. One gentleman spotted us and wanted to chat but we indicated we didn't speak French. It was as if he couldn't comprehend anyone not speaking French so he continued to chat away, occasionally stopping briefly to wait for a response. Receiving nothing but puzzled looks from us, he just kept talking. Eventually he went into his house and brought out two jackets, inviting us to take them for protection from the rain. It was a very thoughtful gesture, as he didn't look very well-to-do himself, but he was offering out of kindness. We thanked him but indicated we didn't mind the rain or getting a little wet, and eventually continued on our way.
Market
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Every day there is a fresh fruit and vegetable market in St. Pierre, but apparently Saturday's market surpasses them all. We were interested in this collection of small fish with a sword-like nose being sold to the locals by the fisherman. Had we been able to speak French we would have inquired about them.
We didn't stop long or buy any as we were about to go exploring for the day to the Depaz Rum Distillery, known to produce world-famous rum.
Mt. Pelee
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
This beautiful mountain was the cause of the 1902 disaster. Although the volcano has been sleeping for many years, the population never returned to it's pre-disaster figure.
We heard that a tropical storm was heading our way so had to leave St. Pierre and decided to head to Le Marin at the south tip of Martinique. It is a protected harbour and known as a hurricane hole. It was only a four-hour sail away.
St. Pierre Harbour
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
This was such a beautiful, peaceful harbour it was difficult to leave. Cruising these islands is an amazing way to see them as we have the freedom to stay as long as we like. The major dictating factor is weather and harbours like this have no protection. However, when conditions are good they are terrific.
Taking the time to visit the interiors gives a whole different perspective. We get to meet the locals and see where and how they live. The hiking is terrific and safety has never been an issue.
Hurricane Damage
11 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
The house on the hillside is looking very vulnerable after the hurricane ripped out the trees and created a small landslide. Of the people who died as a result of Hurricane Dean, many were the result of mudslides.
Hurricanes and volcanoes... Canadians are so blessed they don't have these natural disasters to worry about (except for Mt. St. Helens that is).
The French islands are very French so we are at a disadvantage as we've been studying Spanish, not French. To some sailors visiting these islands is frustrating but we find that most islanders try to communicate with us though they have limited English abilities and they are very polite and kind.
More Ruins
07 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
This fascinating city is full of treasures from the past. It's amazing to see what survived the devasting eruption of 1902. The residents are confident Mt. Pelee is sleeping and there is no risk of Mt. Pelee erupting anytime soon. It is closely monitored by a volcano observatory so there would time for the residents to make haste away and get out of harms way.
We found St. Pierre to be a lovely, quiet, picturesque city with warm, friendly people. Even though we do not speak French there were enough people with just a little English that we were able to communicate. It's often the communities outside the capitals and major centers that are most inviting.
Statue Survived
06 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Amazingly this statue of a nude woman from the theatre survived the 1902 volcanic eruption well intact. The St. Pierre Museum is dedicated to the Mt. Pelee eruption and has an amazing display of photos and remnants found in the rubble. There were a number of people on their way from Fort de France to an Ascension Day Mass that witnessed the eruption from a distance and were able to capture much of it in photos.
In the museum were two small similar statues of a young boy, probably sitting on opposite sides of a mantle, one that was untouched while the other severely scorched by the heat.
Life-Saving Prison Cell
06 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
This is the cell that Cyparis was imprisoned in and survived the 1902 Mt. Pelee volcanic eruption, although he did sustain burns. This is a powerful reminder of life's fragility and how we all need to be ready to enter the Promised Land without warning.
Miracles - Mt. Pelee Eruption
06 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
The sailing guide says that back in 1902 the giant fireball of superheated gas that flowed over the city released more energy than an atomic bomb, leaving only smoking ruins. A man named Cyparis, imprisoned for murder in a stone cell, is shown here. He ended up being one of the exhibitions in the Barnum & Bailey Circus. The other survivor was Leon Leandre, a cobbler who was in his cellar.
Golden Years
05 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
During the golden years in St. Pierre, Martinique was borne a theater, seating 800 people who enjoyed the gleam and glory of orchestras, vaudeville and plays in this distant community, by performers who traveled for 3 months across the ocean to reach St. Pierre. Somehow the echoes of its glory still ring from the ruins of this once magnificent building.
Mt. Pelee Ruins
05 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Ruins from the 1902 Mt. Pelee eruption are evident and widely spread throughout the town and have been dug out of the volcanic ash and recovered, leaving the remnants of buildings that were built onto, renewing the life of the city. Some buildings remain as burned out shells reminding us all of the power of God's nature followed by God's blessings, as the volcanic ash turned burned hillsides into highly productive food crops through the fertilization of the ash. The intensity of the heat from the pyroclastic flow instantaneously melted and devoured everything in its path. A dozen ships in the harbour were consumed at the same time and have never been recovered. At least one ship successfully limped away.
El Shaddai
05 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
We are sitting in this beautiful harbour with picturesque views from every angle. What an added blessing getting a second chance to visit Martinique. The water is deep so we are anchored close to shore. At night the two towers on the Catholic church are lit up as well as a statue at the south end of town atop a hill. Mt. Pelee is to the north with fields of sugarcane in the foreground. The Catholic church rings out chimes frequently during the day, calling people to Mass. There are only two main, one-way streets in town so it is easy to get around.
Mt. Pelee
05 September 2007 | St. Pierre, Martinique
Martinique is a French island immediately south of Dominica. When we say French we mean French as very few people speak English, including many customs officers.
St. Pierre, Martinique, is a picturesque town on the north end of Martinique. It has a sad history as on May 8, 1902 Mt. Pelee erupted with the pyroclastic flow killing 30,000 people in the town shortly after 8 a.m. About 1,000 people had left before the eruption as there had been warnings and even a few deaths back in February. Of those that stayed there were only two survivors, one being a man accused of murder that was contained in a thick cell. The town is full of ruins from the eruption and there is a bit of an eerie feeling as you walk the streets and imagine the horrendous destruction that occurred just over 100 years ago.