27 July 2017 | Reeds Bay, Hilo, Hawaii
10 July 2017 | Reeds Bay, Hilo, Hawaii
22 June 2017 | Bora Bora, French Polynesia
18 June 2017 | Bora Bora, French Polynesia
12 June 2017 | Humane, French Polynesia
05 June 2017 | Moorea, French Polynesia
07 May 2017 | Tahiti, French Polynesia
21 April 2017 | Fakarava, Tuamotu's, French Polynesia
05 April 2017 | Tahanea Atoll. Tuamotu's, French Polynesia
05 April 2017 | Makemo Atoll, Tuamotu's, French Polynesia
07 March 2017 | Rikitea, Mangareva, Gambier Islands, French Polynesia
20 February 2017 | Rikitea, Gambier Islands, French Polynesia
14 January 2017 | Playita, Panama City, Panama
02 January 2017 | La Plait, Panama City
17 December 2016 | Isla Nargana
16 December 2016 | San Blas, Panama
29 October 2016 | Kralendijk
22 October 2016 | Mt Hartman Bay, Grenada
Big Hawaii and Hilo
27 July 2017 | Reeds Bay, Hilo, Hawaii
Emerald arrived into Hilo Bay at 03:00 on 9th July. While there was a lot of city lights impeding a clear view of the entrance marker buoys at night, as we got closer the flashing reds and greens became apparent and we found our way safely thru the channel and into Reed's Bay. We found our Navionic charts very accurate here. Seabed holding has been reported to be poor due to a layer of mud/sand over lava beds however we seemed to have managed to get a good grip on our first attempt. There are about 10 boats on private moorings here and a few others anchored.
The following day after a few hours kip we headed over to see George Valdez at US Customs who cleared us in - single stop for customs, immigration and agriculture - and without a boat inspection, in our case. We thought about anchoring or tying up alongside at Radio Bay but decided against that and remained in Reed's Bay. However we did use Radio Bay to locked it off our dinghy at the canoe club while we explored Hawaii. Being in Reed's Bay, a different jurisdiction than Radio Bay, we had to register with the Reed's Bay harbor master and paid approx $7 per day for our stay. We needed to take on fuel before heading to Canada and found that the fuel delivery companies would only accept a minimum order of 200 gallons (we only needed 120gal) so I arranged with 3 other yachts to take fuel and we eventually had an order over 400 gallons. Bunkering was arranged with Big Island Energy (price: USD3.68/gal) and I coordinated with Radio Bay's harbor master to get the four yachts in for loading. This went very well and everyone was cooperative.
Hilo and Big Hawaii has been a nice stop. We rented a car at Alamo Rent a Car and got one of their 'deals' of about 50% off the regular price and I guess we made an impression on the agent as we chatted away as he made sure we got a new compact car. Nice wheels! So having the car for 2 weeks allowed us to get all around Hawaii, Volcano Nat'l Park, Volcano Winery (a small hobby winery with some interesting wine varieties), Ka'u Coffee Mill and macadamia plantation, museums, the many waterfalls, the beautiful Kona region, remote walks where we came across egg laying leatherback turtles resting and basking in the sun before heading back to sea, etc.... and to Walmart for our Veziron wifi device ($30) and topped it up with data ($10 per 10GB). We also got a Verizon mobile phone for $10+30 that includes unlimited calls and SMS's anywhere in the US for 30 days. Also a lot of trips to Starbucks for a great coffee and fast internet. The large Safeway, Foodland or KTA restocked us with provisions (though its quite difficult to find any 'edible and healthy' food at these places) and the Farmer's Market in Hilo on Wednesdays and Saturday's stocked us with local fruit and veg (non-GMO).
We met fellow cruisers from SV Julia in their beautiful new Fontaine Pajot Helia and Erin and Simon in their 1958 wooden sloop they refurbished and sailed from Vancouver which took them 30 days - they near starved as they ran out of food and were saved by a few good fish catches.
It's hurricane season here in the east Pacific and sure enough while we were here they were forming in the east and heading toward Hawaii. The first one was Fernanda which was later downgraded from a Cat 3 hurricane to a depression and eventually when it arrived to Hawaii we had winds to15kts, increased swell with king tides and lots of overcast/rain for a few days. Before it arrived however I moved Emerald out into deeper water (9m; 19 43.877N: 155 03.665W) as the shelf that we were anchored on was only about 3-4m and would be subject to considerable chop if the winds blow up. And behind Fernanda came Hurricane Greg, Irwin and Hillary which, fortunately, all lost their punch before they arrived in the Hawaiian island region.
While here I ordered up some boat bits i.e. wind transducer, reef lines, new dinghy paddles, generator fuel pump. As we are transient and haven't an address we coordinated with the local UPS office and our shipments were sent here for my collection. Courier from the mainland to Hilo was done in an amazing 3-4 days!
As much as we would have enjoyed cruising the Hawaiian islands we were eager to get to Canada well within the good weather period between June and August. So we set a departure period of the first week of August to head north. Also, as it would be the Nor'easterly trades moving us along for the first few weeks, the further west one goes the more of a reach (wind forward of the beam) it becomes and less comfortable. Rose will fly to Canada and visit friends and family and I have taken on crew - two lads, Dave and Paul, from Vancouver that came recommended.
I had some maintenance and repairs to do. I changed out the first and second reef lines that were showing signs of severe chafe. Also replaced the aft boom sheave block that had a broken sheave wheel. I had a spare block from Martinique days that I refurbished so it was an easy replacement. Then replaced the Raymarine wind transducer on the mast top that stopped working during our passage from BoraBora. Then we went out for a spin in the bay to re-calibrate the nav and wind instrumentation.
Soon we'll miss the warmth of Pacific and be heading to the Great White North!
Passage Bora Bora to Hawaii
10 July 2017 | Reeds Bay, Hilo, Hawaii
"The sea has a way of teaching you to see - not just by making the eye dance across the surface of things, jiggling, sweeping, swooping, taking measure in ways the landlocked eye can't even conceive. Its trickier than that: teasing you to look at whats bobbing at the edge of your vision, at what lies beyond: deep inside, locked in memory or destiny"
M. Lavin, 1959
Midway in our passage the winds subsided and the seastate calmed and that allowed us a few moments to sit out on the open forward deck in the cooling breeze and admire the big blue around us. The deep blue, clear, waters, the bows slicing through with a bow wake...mesmerizing like watching camp fires as kids. And the sky blue with its puffy hovering clouds. All alone we are - only Emerald and us. Hey, looks who's joined us... a pod of spotted dolphins decided to make a joyful presence! It's these moments that your soul needs to take it all in, think and accept. Open your mind, free your soul!
The Plan: It's a 2240nm passage. We'll maintain a course 010 - 015T degrees from Bora Bora which would take us well east of Christmas Island and into the ITCZ (near the Equator). This is not a rhumb line to Hawaii but if we don't do this then we'd later be banging into the winds when we do cross the ITCZ and the NE trades kick in towards Hawaii. We'll make efforts to squeeze as much Easterly as we can.
Our sail passage can be broken down into three parts. Part 1 from Bora Bora to the convergence zone with SE trades of 15-20kts winds, Part 2 in the convergence zone with little wind and a whole lot of overcast with squalls and rain and Part 3, from the convergence zone to Hawaii with the NE trades of 15-25kts winds. Its was all pretty uncomfortable and boisterous sailing as the winds and wave were generally forward of our beam i.e. reaching; so there was a lot pounding, slapping (that cats are infamous for) and spray. We still made some good speeds and daily progress runs, all with a 2nd reef in and often a reef in the genoa (Im always under canvassed!). Our flybridge tent kept us well sheltered from the winds and spray. We slept, when possible, at the flybridge or on the salon benches. Yet, this passage ranks as one of our most uncomfortable passages that we've undertaken and thats primarily as most of our previous sailing has been downwind - far more comfy! In hindsight, to reduce so much reach sailing, as we didn't get sufficient easting, we should have made our way back to Tahiti to get a better wind angle to Hawaii. One has to be a bit of a masochist to enjoy ocean passage like this for days on end.
We didn't fish as we have a freezer full of fish and we want to lessen this load before the US Agriculture department decides to confiscate it. Rose prepared 6 days of healthy meals before leaving so there wasn't any cooking to be done in the beginning. But...poor girl...she remained pretty much horizontal for first days out with stage 1 sea sickness (more about that below). As a requital, Rose will fly to Canada from Hawaii and later meet me in Victoria and I will take crew on from Hawaii.
Emerald crossed the Equator for the 4th time on 30 June at 17:40hrs and we celebrated with .... a beer!
One highlight: We are midway to Hawaii and after 7 days of bouncing around and walking like a drunken sailor the seas became calm and subdued. And then amazingly...our moods took a swing for the better - a few moments of euphoria, jubilation ... finally! And then there's no better way to enjoy those moments than strip down, have a cooling deck shower and run around the deck with nothing on but a smile! And dolphins! Then ... no sooner came the ITCZ....
It took about 3 days to get through the inter-tropical convergence zone (ITCZ) which went from about 03N to 7N. We could see it clearly on our forecasts in the 'rain' mode. It was quite squally but their intensity rarely exceeded 25kts and we made efforts to dodge them ... with marginal success. Mostly 80% or more overcast with plenty of rain but no lightening (thankfully). As expected the winds were all over the place: high when a squall initially hit us and then next no wind as it passed. As a result we motored or motor-sailed a good way through.
We used PredictWind/GO for weather forecasts and routing checks and SailDocs/GO for big picture weather reviews and warnings over the North Pacific region.
Always a highlight in our day - we stay in touch twice daily with cruising friends in French Polynesia via the PolyMagNet on 8173kHz - a volunteer HF net run by cruisers for cruisers. And we also got to chat with SV Silverland - an amazing young family we met from Holland in their 40's Dutch ex-fishing motor-sailor. Champ kite surfers! We shared some great anchorages and diving in the Gambiers with them including with friends Sasha and Roger of SV Endbal.
Seasickness is a malady and one Rose suffers from occasionally - and this trip has been one of these occasions. And while I seem to have a stomach of iron and seldom feel the symptoms, this trip even tested me. Often it is something that goes away in a couple of days at sea. Drugs, such as Sturgeon, can be taken to relieve the symptoms, even after you come down with it. Rose also takes ginger and she has in the past tried a variety of other so-called remedies i.e. accu-pressure bands, etc but these haven't worked. The symptoms typically begin with frequent yawning, followed by a slight headache, dry mouth, pallor, cold sweats, nausea and sickness. This was the first time Rose had drunk seawater, ½ cup twice a day, and she say it did help her!
To make life interesting during the ITCZ squalls the port side genoa sheet Clutch decided to loosen up from its foundation. Clutches are those neat little devices that grab and secure the lines and maintain the tension on them. Should this break off then there would be no sailing the genoa so a fix needed to be executed immediately. Trying to retighten the two bolts from the clutch side was just not going to do it as the nut just spun. So I had to completely remove sections of the salon ceiling, cut an access hole to allow me to get my hand and spanner on the nut while Rose tightened the screw. Typically of a boat repair....1hr of preparation to do a 30 second job! That was all done while bobbing up and down in 2m swells! Reef line chafe is another issue with the 450s' boom and if not paid attention to, a reef line will chafe thru and break in no time. I have learnt a few tricks over the years and employ these. But on this trip the 2nd reef line began chafing thru and I end-cut 25cm off to shift this area. Also then one of the aft boom sheave rollers broke. I've made it a routine every morning to run around the boat and its rig inspecting for anomalies. Murphy resides on yachts you know!
Two days before arriving the sailing condition were just a delight; big blue sky, hardly any swell, 15kts NE wind on a beam reach, 8-9kts SOG and 'Franky Perez' blasting on the hifi. We pulled into Hilo Bay of Big Hawaii at 04:00hrs on 9th July and anchored in Reeds Bay. All the conditions were good and safe for a night entry i.e. little swell, near full moon, well lit marker buoys, confirmed accurate charts.
Departure: Bora Bora; 09:00hrs 24 June 0900
Arrival: Hilo; 04:00hrs 9 July
Total Days: 15 days 19hrs
Total Miles: 2235nm
Average Daily Run: 143nm
Best 24hr Run: 188nm
Photo: Hitchhiking Brown Boobie
Passage Route Bora Bora to Hawaii to Canada
22 June 2017 | Bora Bora, French Polynesia
During a relaxed time at one of the scenic Bora Bora anchorages we were chatting, as one does, about our plans going forward. Up until this time we were to continue westward toward Tonga, Fiji and then north to the Marshall's and Micronesia. Then we realized there was an opportunity to leave French Polynesia now and head north up to Hawaii, Canada and into the Pacific North West. It took a week or so to mull it over and do the research and in the end we decided Canada was where we wanted to head to next. The weather was favorable at this time of year for such a passage where the best months for routing from Hawaii to British Columbia is June to August. It meant leaving Bora Bora before the end of June to be in Victoria before the end of August. I studied the weather patterns, routes, the North Pacific High and its associated lows and also corresponded with Jim Innes, a tactician for the Transpac rally that runs from PNW to Hawaii who provided me with guidance.
The passage from Bora Bora to Hawaii will be relatively easy going with reliable easterly trades moving us along nicely. We expect to clear into Honolulu and stay for a week. Leaving Hawaii toward Canada will be a bit more challenging. A rhumb line from Hawaii to Victoria takes you thru the N Pacific High which entails no winds and a days and days of motoring.
So the passage plan from Hawaii is expected to take us on a course of 350 degrees for at least 1100nm and try not to be temped to point for BC. This route will take us around the High to the west of the center and keep us in the breeze. It also positions us so that when we do penetrate the High it keeps motoring to a minimum. Then we drew a line out of the entrance of Juan de Fuca bearing 280 degrees for 350nm and marked a waypoint. This is our entry into the straits (about equivalent attitude as the top of Vancouver Island) and the reason for aiming for this point is that if gales from the NW are forecasted and materialize then the ride from that point puts the wind on a favorable broad reach.
We are expecting to have to get out our cold weather gear. And low visibility and cool fog can be expected on the Swiftsure Bank and along the Juan De Fuca Straits to Victoria. Juan De Fuca Straits are a busy shipping channel for merchant ships heading into Canada and the US, predominately to Vancouver and Seattle. Plenty of fishing boats and humpback whales are expected - let's not get too close! And fishing should be good!
Soooo looking forward to Victoria!
Busy Bora Bora and Stories
18 June 2017 | Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Rosa, honey, it's about time we take a vacation! Let's go to Bora Bora, that exclusively scenic island of the wealthy and famous that I've been reading about in glossy travel magazines for 40 years.
Our passage from Huahine was a pleasant sail with 10-12kts (NE) of wind from the stern which took us over the top of Ile Tahaa, via the southside of BoraBora and around to the west side pass. For a while, I thought I was in the Caribbean again! For as we entered western Passe Teavanui it was charter yachts as far as the eye can see! We decided just to find an easy location and anchor for the rest of the day on a shallow sand bank behind Isle Toopua. But no sooner did we have our hook down when 3 other Moorings (chartering outfit) cats decided they would anchor here too. I don't want to read into this too much!! The next morning we enjoyed a nice snorkeled at a nearby reef which, despite dead coral, was quite busy with many shy reef fish. In the afternoon we headed over to Viatape (BoraBora's surprisingly not so charming village i.e. charmless) and took a mooring at the MaiKia Yacht Club as tomorrow is Monday and we could load up on fruit and veg at the Chin Lee supermarket and refill the dinghy fuel tank. MaiKia's mooring field was mostly empty: 14 balls; XPF3500 for the first day (US35 - ouch) and XPF1500 for each day thereafter; includes wifi (barely reaches the mooring field), 100L water (we have a water maker), laundry facilities (we have a washer/dryer and you still have to put coins in the machines) and garbage disposal (which is a bin on the main street).
Bora Bora, the jewel of the South Pacific is surrounded by high end hotels with their water bungalows; most of these are on the motu's, the small surrounding reef islands, and why is that? Well they get this great view of the Bora's twin peaks and I suppose it leaves the island itself to the locals. We didn't do any star-gazing of the rich and famous. There are lots of dive and shuttle boats zigzagging everywhere moving tourists around and plenty of charter yachts motoring (not sailing) around the area. Vaitape supports most of all these with restaurants, craft shops (pearls, pearls, pearls), dive shops, groceries stores, fuel stations, water supply, airport, etc. However we found the village quite shabby and the local folks not as friendly as we've met at other FP islands - I suppose one looses their courtesy when you have to constantly deal with demanding tourists every day.
So lets find a nice spot for our vacation! There seems to be plenty of parking spots around these surrounding islands. After getting out of Viatape we went around to the east side of Bora Bora to find some peaceful anchorages for a week or so. The route getting to the SE corner was a bit nerve wracking, negotiating the shallows where at times we had only 0.2m under our keel (gulp!) but we kept a track going for our return trip. The sunlight overhead was bright and reflected from the white sand bottom making it confusing at times to estimate the depth in front of us. But in the end we found wonderful spots, the ocean swell breaking behind us with a steady roar along the outer edge of the reef. All this against the big backdrop of lush green peaks of Mount Pahia, Mount Hue and Mount Otemanu with its surrounding woodlands.
So what did we do on our vacation. Well, we met young fellow Canadian solo sailor Josh from SV Maistral who started his journey from Vancouver via Mexico via Marquesas via Society's enroute to New Zealand in his 29ft yacht. Here is a guy who practices minimalism for he lives a very basic simple life onboard - a lesson for all us! We all had a great few days together chatting, snorkeling, chowing with lots of wine therapy. Why else did we do? We made cookies, pizza's, paella, lots of swimming and underwater photos, moved Emerald around to various spots. We chilled in the hammock. We got rained in for a few days. And we found three great snorkeling spots (16 32.525S:151 43.501W with abundant reef fish, grey moray eel) and (16 32.799S:151 42.104W with good living coral, abundant and relaxed black tips) and (16 32.479W:151 43.557W with lots of reef fish which are not shy as the they are chummed by the tour boats). We looked for the famed manta's but I think we're out of season. Later we sailed back to Viatape for our last bit of groceries and final outward clearance from French Polynesia noting that this is the last stop for doing this even if stopping in Maupiti. It was a bit of an obstacle as it was Saturday and I went into the Gendarmerie to clear-out and they asked me to return on Monday as Papeete Customs/Immigration was closed on Saturday (?). When I said I really needed to leave the next days as we had a weather window they agreed to email the documents to Papeete and then Papeete would email me back with an attached official outward clearance document. An then at that moment the complete town of Viatape had a power cut! The Gendarmerie's aircons turned off, the French were confused, smoked a lot and got loud, and in the end they told me to email the docs to Papeete myself. All I needed to do now was find some wifi in power-loss Viatape, photo the 3 docs and email it. It worked out in the end and the next day we departed.
Most mornings and evenings (08:00 and 18:00hrs), and particularly while on passage, I listen in on the Polynesian Magellan Net and report our position, course, speed and weather conditions. As well as listen in to others. This is a valuable volunteer service run by cruisers for cruisers and it provides a safety net predominately for those underway - for if any are having trouble, they have a voice that can offer support or assistance. We have joined various Nets now while crossing the Indian, South Atlantic and now the Pacific Ocean. And we have been party to providing assistance to friends in stress. Truly a great service!
We eat nearly all the time onboard and make our own meals - I'd say about 95% of the time. Tonights dish was 'Emerald Paella' with fresh tuna, local assorted veg, rice with a fresh coconut milk base. We always focus on tasty healthy dishes! After years of cooking for our children you get a pretty good idea of what ingredients blend well - of all sorts of styles. We have a few cookbooks onboard we can consult including the great Joy Of Cooking (thanks Anne!). And we eat healthily i.e. lots of veg and fruit and fish. We do eat meats (chicken and beef) but very rarely any pork (maybe bacon on burgers!). And buying locally produced food almost always assures us it's not GMO (fuck Monsanto). There are times in some countries or remote islands where available fresh foods can be scarce; sometimes we have to wait for a supply ship to arrive to stock the village or we trade with locals. Sometimes there is just nothing. Having a freezer helps, for many reasons, and we'll keep a bag of frozen vegs in there for those times. Our oven is pretty good so Rose makes her own nutritious whole wheat bread and other dishes.
Also, I figure we're experts on local supermarkets! We have been to every grocery store/market/kiosk in each country we have visited. Of course we need to and we've formed various opinions about this - but thats another conversation. Our favorites are the Carrefours in the French islands (Reunion, Martinique, Tahiti), supermarkets in South Africa (anywhere) and the Albert Hien's in the ABC's and our favorite open market: Port Louis, Mauritius .....and worst .... the so-called supermarket in Gan, southern Maldives.
Laid Back Huahine
12 June 2017 | Humane, French Polynesia
Today, Huahine is known for its surfers and backpackers as its well away from the posh resort islands and has a laid-back low key atmosphere about it. Similar to the town vibe we experienced in the Tuamotu's i.e. Gambier, Makemo. Apparently the locals aren't too keen to have hotel developers engulf their island with high end resorts and have successfully solicited to keep their isle unpretentiously Polynesian but allowing small type pensions to be built. Bravo! Huahine has two islands of similar size – Huahine Nui (Big Huahine) to the north and Huahine Iti (Little Huahine) to the south and they're bridged together at Baie Maroe. There is a 60km ring road that passes a lot of fruit plantations and pretty home gardens. It certainly is a nice life these folks have. I read that the translation of the word 'Huahine' is 'vagina' and while its origin is unknown, historians figure it has to do with the important role women played here as Huahine's queens f long ago were highly respected. Today, surfing is king here - Fare's reef break attracts the big names of world surfing.
We left Moorea at 17:30 and sailed into an amazing orange filled sunset for the overnight passage to Huahine. It was a great sail - 12-16kt of so'easterly winds on a broad reach with 1m swell and a half moon lighting up the ocean. It was Rose's first passage since December so was glad it was an easy one to allow her to get her sealegs back. We planned this 80nm night passage so we'd arrive at day break and safely enter the Passe Farerea in daylight conditions. Once inside, we took a big circle around scenic Baie Maroe and entered into petit Baie Puravia with possible plans to anchor here but with three yachts well spread out there wasn't much room to drop an anchor in 15-20m and have a sufficient swing room. So we exited Baie Maroe, took a right turn and went down the eastern channel behind Motu Murimahora and anchored on a sand shelf in clear turquoise waters. It was now time to get a few hours recovery rest.
And after a good hour long nap to recharge the batteries what better way to freshen up than a good cool swim and snorkel with the common and spotted eagle rays that have been swimming around Emerald. We later loaded 'Dragonfly' with our snorkeling gear, cameras, VHF and emergency kit and headed south down the 'dinghy channel' to explore the underworld. Focused around the coral outcrops south of Motu Tarohu we found plenty of small colorful reef fish i.e. Clark's Anemonefish, masked banner fish, lined butterflyfish, a large trumpetfish, neon damselfish,titan triggerfish, solander's toby's, to name a few! But fish seem very shy here compared to other places we've snorkeled.
I later had an encounter with a Titan Triggerfish where I swam into his ' conical area' that he must of been protecting of either his eggs or young. He circled erratically and I that's when I remembered this was their spawning season, but too late, he charged, and took a nip at my fin. And fortunately it was just the fin. He quickly swam back and I the other direction.
Unfortunately the coral is mostly dead however the upside is that plenty of small reef fish still thrive while the downside is the absence of any medium size reef fish i.e. parrot fish, big-eyes, jacks, groupers, etc. These seem far and few between which tells me that the fisherman here have been very active. Rays seem to flourish here - perhaps they are protected. The waters were refreshingly cool and clear water and we drifted in the current with our dinghy in tow checking out and photographing the life below.
What a pleasant anchorage (16 45.871S: 150 57.568W) here among the spotted eagle rays (at least they survive!). The following days at Motu Murimahora we explored the eastern channels along Motu Mahara and Vavaratea, walked the shore roads and chatting with locals. Along with Andrew and Claire from SV Eye Candy we toured 10nm up to Lac Maeva and visited the museum that contained much about the local Huahine heritage.
While this was a great anchorage we were keen to see some of the other locations on Huahine. We hauled up the hook and followed our route back out of Passe Farer and circled north around Huahine Nui and into the Passe Avamoa, passed Fare (port and administrative centre) and kept south through the channels down to Baie D'Avea where we took a mooring ball. Nice spot. Took a walk along to the Parea village though not much there except the lady's practicing their local Tahitian style dancing. We had drinks and internet at the Taravee pension where we could tie up our dinghy on the beach below. Later I took the dinghy around to the east side of Passe Araara for some great snorkeling and photos among a plethora of small reef fish and black tips near the outer reef (16 48.95A:150 58.19W). A few days later we backtracked to Fare and anchored in the shallows behind the reef in emerald clear waters where we explored the village, rose early for the local fresh produce in front of the Super U and shipped back my Locomarine Yacht Router modem to Croatia for repair.
Ive read of many complaints that the L450 has too many sharp edges, hard points, in its cabinetry. Today, I'd agree to that as I've now become a victim of this 'Ikea' design as I managed to slam my toe on the lower cabinet edge hard enough to remove the toenail - ouch!
OK, off to Bora Bora - that famed island of the wealthy and famous.