Tales of Enchantment

also known as "Michelle and Vern's Excellent Adventure"

03 July 2023
17 June 2022
19 January 2021
11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
08 August 2020
01 March 2020
17 November 2019
13 November 2018
29 August 2018
12 January 2016
27 December 2015
15 September 2015

03 July 2023
Vern Noren
We had been in Phuket,Thailand for 3 years after Covid began. We had been there several times before and now it feels more like home than any where else. But it was time to continue our cruising. Our plan was to join a group of boats sailing across Borneo, Indonesia and S to Australia. We decided to do a few things we had never got around to doing before we left. We had even considered retiring in Thailand but that would come later. This post is a random collection of photos from our last several weeks in Thailand.

Junkyard Theater.....Dedicated to Khun Poom

30 November 2022
Vern Noren
Junkyard Theater has a Cabaret dinner show every Saturday. The theater is behind the Grind Café which is almost completely hidden by bamboo and trees. Ten minutes from the marina, Michelle and I had driven past hundreds of times and never noticed it. A Facebook ad led us to make a reservation to see the show. It was awesome. At the end a woman came by our table and asked how we liked the show. Turns out her and her husband, and son are the owners of the theater. We talked for an hour and we were invited to meet her husband at lunch during the week. John, Judy, and I are all of similar age and experiences and we hit it off right away and become friends.

They moved from Australia to Bangkok 30 years ago and then here to Phuket 20 yrs ago. John has a commercial arts degree and under the theater area is his factory. He has many international clients of the 5 star hotel variety, with current projects in London, Bangkok, and the Maldives.

He opened up this theater a year ago when he realized that that were many talented performers on the island that were out of work due to Covid. He decided to hire a few to entertain at the restaurant which has since grown into a full theater group with about 25 performers and 15-20 support personnel. Lighting, sound, backstage hands, seamstress, stage manager, choreographer, etc.
The Underwoods are very generous with their success. The factory and restaurant workers get free lunches, many live free in various rooms scattered around the huge old building. The Underwoods have given financial support to employees with overwhelming medical bills and other needs. They are very warm and welcoming to everyone and if you are their friend you have an open invitation to "come anytime, just show up".

I came to the shows and rehearsal for a few months just to watch the dancers, they are sooo good. The break dancers are officially the Andaman Crew who have been in several international competitions and won a few trophies. The girls are just pretty to watch :-}.

Now for those that don't know me all that well I have always had a fear of public speaking. I was so nervous about getting up in front of people and speaking I would rather cut my hand off. Then came the John. He first encouraged me just to walk across the stage during one of the bigger street scenes. He wanted more people walking around like the real life Bangla Road. Ok, I can do that, just don't run. So now, 7 months later I am in 2 skits at Junkyard, and 4 spots at the Marriott. Except for Mango Massage I don't really have any speaking parts, which is fine with me. There are many I could take but I am happy with what I do, although I am tempted. John has offered many times to pay me but my parts are mostly trivial and I told him I am retired don't want a job. And Michelle said She is the only boss I am allowed to have!!

Still alive in Phuket

17 June 2022
Vern Noren
I just realized it has been a year since our last post. We are still in Phuket and not a lot new and exciting to report. The borders in Malaysia and Indonesia are open again so we will be leaving before the end of the year. Unless more unexpected things happen. We have said goodbye to friends and left Phuket for the last time four times now. Maybe number five will be more successful for us. We like Phuket a lot and have made many friends but it is time to move on.
I have added some photo’s we have collected over the past year. We hope you enjoy looking.

Thailand bits and pieces

07 May 2021
Vern Noren
We have been "stuck" in Thailand for just over a year now. There are worse places to be stuck for sure. Phuket went 3 months without a new local case of Covid, then suddenly went from zero to 250+ in a matter of two weeks. The rest of the country is under severe restrictions in an effort to contain it again. Officials believe it all started with large groups of partying youths and other "socially entitled" in and around Bangkok. I just read the Thailand ranks 124th in the world for vaccine distribution.
It has not been boring. Since our last update several months ago we have become better friends with many of the locals, had $6,000 in damage to our boat, had our diesel engine commit suicide, and revisited my hippy days.
The photo gallery has many new pictures with no rhyme or reason to the assortment.

North Thailand

19 January 2021
Vern Noren
We took a 3 week trip to N Thailand to a region I have never been to before. Michelle toured parts of it several years ago when our son & grandson came to visit. The region is mountainous and mostly remote with many small towns and villages.

Many different ethnic groups live in the highlands, many with their own languages, customs, and beliefs. The weather is pleasantly cooler than down in Phuket, and things are a lot cheaper. Our most expensive hotel was $25/ night, most under $20, and the cheapest was $7/night with a balcony on the river.

Thailand Tales

11 November 2020 | Phuket, Thailand
Vern Noren
It has been a while since our last update and a lot has happened. We returned to the marina for a month to have some boat work completed and repairs made, then returned to Phi Phi for two weeks. There was a big festival starting in Phuket which we did not want to miss so we sailed back to Chalong Harbor and anchored for a week.
We were in a gray area with immigration, we never got visa’s when we arrived last March, just crew papers that said we could stay legally for 30 day, NO renewal, No possibility to get visa’s. We spent two months talking to immigration officials, visa agent’s, other cruisers, with no solutions. Complicating the situation the harbor masters were instructed not to clear out any yachts to leave the country until borders opened up. So one agency says you cannot stay, another says your boat/home cannot leave. Immigration policy changes every few weeks here so everyone remains confused. Eventually it got sorted out after many, many trips to immigration. Every 30 days we have to return to the main office and they will stamp us in for another 30 days until borders open, which could be mid 2021, no one knows. At least our stress is greatly reduced.
To make things interesting the following is how we spent the second night in Chalong.
MIDNIGHT MADNESS

After living on board 16 years, and cruising full time the last 11 years we had a new first. We have been anchored in Chalong Bay, Thailand for the last few days. Big anchor, 200 ft chain on a mostly mud bottom, 10-1 scope. We always back down at full throttle and our reversing prop give us almost full thrust. Around midnight, as another of many short squalls barreled through the anchorage Michelle went out to check wind speed and our position. All good. Ten minutes later the wind picked up again and when she checked this time we were less than 10 meters from a catamaran that used to be 100+ meters away.
For the first time ever we had dragged our anchor but this was not the time to celebrate. I took the wheel as she tried to get the anchor up. The chain jumped out of the bow roller toward the middle so now she is pulling it up across the teak front lip. As I struggled to gain some control and keep us off the other boat the anchor winch breaker kept tripping from the strain of the pull. Too noisy from the howling wind and rain communication was impossible and I could only guess which direction the chain was leading. Complicating the situation was the full awnings we had up. They hindered visibility forward and acted like sails, pushing us around with great force.
We finally got the anchor up and headed down wind behind all the other boats and dropped all 250 feet of chain, the 55lb Delta anchor, large snubber, and a prayer. We wrestled the awnings down, the wind dropped to about 20 kts, and we were happy again.
In hindsight I think the new awnings were the main factor in our dragging since it had never happened before and we have used this anchorage many times.
When we finally settled back down to finish a movie we had been watching my wife gave me a kiss and said we did that whole thing without yelling at each other, like that has ever happened.
Start to finish of our adventure was one hour. Since we did not damage anyone else, worked together smoothly, it was all sort of fun in a demented kind of way.
Vessel Name: Enchantment
Vessel Make/Model: Island Packet 40
Hailing Port: Chicago
Crew: Vern & Michelle
About:
Vern, originally from Chicago, has lived in New Orleans and the Nashville, Tn area. I have been sailing for almost 40 years, have logged over 15,000 offshore miles and hold a 100 ton masters license. I also work as a critical care nurse. [...]
Extra: We are currently finishing with upgrades and improvements to Enchantment in preparation for a 3-4 year cruise from Baltimore to New Zealand. Our cruising kitty will be fully funded and our departure date is set for Oct 2010 with a transit of the Panama Canal late February 2011
Enchantment's Photos - The Galapagos Archipelago
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Proof we crossed the Equator to the Southern Hemisphere
Our first site of land in 27 days, San Cristabol, Galapagos
Wreck Bay, San Cristabol
Main Street, Puerto Mereno
Our first dinner ashore with crews from, Spruce, Enchantment, Somerset, and Mystic Moon
The sea lions have taken posession of the dock steps
And the benches
So cute you want to pet them,  and probably get a nasty bite
They sleep anywhere,  and like to leave you little poopy presents before they go
Carol & Jimm from Somerset
Kicker Rock,  our first dive site,  water temp in the low 60s
Black tipped reef shark
The sea lions love to buzz you underwater and are very playful
Galapagos ray
Another reef shark
In the distance are 2 Manta rays,  they frow to over 20 feet across,  these were abou 10
Playful and curious
Marine Iquana,  exclusive to the Galapagos
This sea turtle was 4 feet across and oblivious to us swimmers
A spotted eagle ray
Marine iguana
The captains daughter came with us snorkeling
While the dive master and boat crew made us lunch of just caught yellow fin tuna ceviche
It
Hiking through the park to a favorite swimming spot
The snorkelling was excellent and we saw dozens of sea turtles here
Next Island,  and the most built up and touristy,   Santa Cruz,  populatioin about 16,000
The water taxi dock  they run 24/7.  60 cents during the day,  $1 after 6pm
Many  paved hiking paths begin near the center of town
Every eveing there was a volley ball game going on
A small park surrounds the water taxi dock
The fresh sea food market always has hungry customers
Waiting for scraps
Colorful cars
colorful women
Fresh market  Saturday morning.  The farmers bring in their goods from the highlands to sell and very cheap prices
Not USDA approved
Restaurant row,  you can get a dinner of soup, rice, meat or fish, and a juice for $5
Some of the graves are very colorful as well.  Many families place photo
The parents of this 4 year old boys placed some of his toys at the head of his tomb
Lava tunnels were formed as the lava cooled while flowing beneath the surface
A tight fit
This species of tortoise is exclusive to the Galapagos.  One numbering in the hundreds of thousands they were almost wiped out by sailors capturing them for food and predation by introduce animals such as cats, dogs, cattle, rats.  They can live for several  months without food or waater so sailors stored them in the bilge for fresh meat
They can live up to 150 years and grow to many hundreds of pounds.
Now all the islands raise them from eggs to 2 years old,  when they are large enough to fend for themselves.  A difference of 2 degrees temperature while incubating determines if the hatchking will be male or female
Marine iguana posing for us
The blue footed boobie is a skilled hunter.  When he spots a fish he dives from the sky like a fighter jet and can go as deep as 60 feet below the surface
The last island we visited was Isabela,   the largest, and least developed,  population about 1200.  The West coast is barren and prehistoric looking.
Numerous volcsnic craters dot the landscape
The rare Galapagos penquin is the second smallest in the world
Look out point along the path to the Wall of Tears
100 meters, by 30 meters high and wide,  it kept the prisoners too tired to escape.  The guards were as brutal as the prisoners the jailed.
We took a long hike up into the volcanic fields,  behind us is the largest active volcanic crater in the world.  Approximately 30 kilometers in circumference it last  erupted in 2005
Another view of the crater
Need fresh fruits or veggies.  Just gather a group and go to a local farm.  Ask for a pineapple that will be ready in 4 days and he will pick out the right one for you.
Gathering papaya off the tree,  doesn
Musician at the rodeo
Downtown Port Villamil on Islaq Isabela, a weekend long festival was in progress.  Here the crowds wait for the horse races to start.
On your mark, get set
GO,  one rider fell off his horse,  another ran over a poor dog which wqas killed.  They also had several bicycle races for kids and adults.
Food and craft stands at the rodea
Always need a rodeo clown
Inside the catholic church,  the main religion in the Galapagos.  Simple, tasteful, most of the statues are carved from wood by  local artists
 
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