05/05/2011, Isla Partida - Cardonal and Ensenada Grande
May 5 (Cinco de Mayo) to May 7
Depart from La Paz - to Isla Partida (Cardonal & Ensenada Anchorages)
Emma and Phoebe assist with our dock lines and we head out of the marina and out the La Paz channel.
Soon after exiting the channel and setting our way points for Cardonal anchorage, we are boarded by the very friendly Mexican Navy. Miguel only wants to do a safety check and inspect our paperwork. The happy officer declines a cold coca cola and proceeds with his duties. Before we know it, he's hopping back on his ship and we all carry on.
Savannah is tired and naps underneath the table in the cockpit. She looks cozy and I'm happy she is sleeping.
We hear 'Endorfin, Endorfin - Taking Flight' on the VHF. We switch to channel 68 and chat a bit with Dave. They are anchored at Isla Ballena and will join us in a a day or two. We make our way to Cardonal and anchor for the night. The coromuels blow, but we appreciate the fresh breeze inside the boat. Summer is almost here and it's heating up.
We start the next day with a morning swim before breakfast while Dan scrubs the water line. Savannah is wearing her 'jelly' suit for the first time and she is is very cute in the glowing yellow and hot pink lycra suit.
Dan shuttles me to the beach to play with Savannah while I run to the other side of the isthmus. Too many happy hours and not enough exercise is taking its toll. I am rewarded! The view from the top of the mountain is amazing.
Back on the beach, we witness dozens of squids beaching themselves - some phenomenon that I need to 'google' - Savannah is thrilled to be able to catch them, but wants to take them home. We attempt to rescue the ones still alive, but they insist on beaching themselves again. Dan says 'no' to calamari for dinner.
Today, we met a lovely couple from Scotland who are sailing their recently purchased s/v Aquarius. Gitte and David join us for a happy hour and we enjoy cold VTs while chatting about our recent adventures. They are shaking down their boat briefly before returning to Scotland and preparing for their next adventure. We are thrilled to share some cruising tips about the Banderas Bay area while they share their years of sailing adventures around the UK and Scotland. Brrrr !!!
04/22/2011, La Paz, BCS
Two Weeks in La Paz at Palmira Marina
April 21 to May 5
Our two weeks at the Marina goes by super-fast. We spend enormous amounts of time with Josie - we shopped, ate, drank and went to the movies! Our first shopping trip to Soriana is an eventful one for Josie !! We are picking up some groceries and supplies when, out in the middle of the isle, Savannah spots a stack of 'walking puppy' toys. She tried desperately, without success, to get us to buy the walking puppy. Many tears ensued! 45 minutes later, she stopped whining and asking for the toy. Mommy one! Savannah none!
I enjoyed a husband / child free afternoon when Josie and I went to the movies. We soaked up the air-conditioned air, nibbled on popcorn, and sipped cold cokes.
The movie was good and we finally enjoyed a La Paz movie together.
Some days were walking days - we would walk and Savannah and Kara would scoot on their 'Razors'. The Malecon which runs from one end of town to the other, is perfect for the scooting girls - so we all got lots of exercise.
We celebrated Dan's 50th birthday with a party at our favorite taco stand in La Paz. We filled our bellies with 'papas rellenas' and quenched our thirsts with cold beers at Rancho Viejo. Phoebe had her hands full with Kara and Savannah, and definitely earned her babysitting money that night. It was a delightful evening without children. Thanks sweet Phoebe!
Josie gave us a grand walking tour one day and showed us all her favorite shopping places. We started with a yummy breakfast at 'Corazon'. Across town we went to buy bread at the bakery. All the way to Farmacorama to buy Costco almonds, then back to the Malecon for $3 DVD's from the street vendors.
Josie and I celebrated her birthday with another outing to the movies.
Most days were spent just eating, schooling, cleaning, and swimming. And perhaps a happy hour or two :)
04/21/2011, La Paz, BCS
April 21, 2011
Arrival to La Paz !!
We arrived to Marina Palmira, La Paz just after 12:30. Ahhhhh ! It feels good to be back. With the boat cleaned up and feeling the need to cool off, I am ready for the pool. But I am re-directed by Dan to meet the family onboard s/v Blue Sky. The swim will have to wait. Jim, Emma, Phoebe and Drake have just completed a 5 year circumnavigation and I can't wait to meet them.
Wow !! I stare at 12 year old Phoebe - who was just a bit older than Savannah when they started their journey. Looking at this amazing almost teenager, gives me goosebumps -as I get a glimpse at a future Savannah. She is well-spoken, polite, obviously super-intelligent, and extremely worldly and outgoing. Her brother Drake is just as amazing. Their Mom and Dad (Emma and Jim) are over the top friendly and invite me to join them for something cold aboard s/v Blue Sky - their home and magic carpet for the last 5 years. Emma pours a chilled white wine for me and Jim is super-generous with the Tecate for Dan. The time passes quickly as we listen to one amazing story after another. Ann makes popcorn and shares her fresh made dried fish.
We are laughing and chatting when I hear a very familiar ' Lisaaaaaaaaaaaaa' !!!! I know it is Josie, and jump off the boat. We laugh and hug! Ahhhhhh! Eeeeeeee !! We are looking at each other as if in a dream. Josie says ' you are here, you are here !! and not leaving in a week !!' It's a fabulous moment! We spend the rest of the evening getting caught up with each other and enjoy a lovely evening on s/v Blue Sky.
04/18/2011, Mainland, BCS
Bahia de los Muertos (Bay of the Dead) - otherwise known as Bahia de los Suenos (Bay of Dreams - the developers tried to change the name in order to sell more condos)
18 - 20 April, 2011
We had arrived to Bahia de los Muertos anchorage with the intention of staying only one night - just rest a bit after our long crossing, then hurry to La Paz. But soon after anchoring, another dozen boats pulled in and dropped anchor.
For the first time since we left California in December, I finally felt like I was a cruiser. The moment came when I packed my running shoes and ipod into a dry bag and headed to shore on my paddle board for a beach run.
Soon after pulling up my board past the surf, I met two more paddlers - Mark and Ann from s/v Blue Rodeo and they told me about the beach potluck that was planned for tonight. I looked forward to the opportunity to make new cruising friends.
Two days turned into three after we discovered that a beautiful pool with a fast slide and cold beers served was available for cruisers to enjoy. We met up with Dave, Ann and Kara from s/v Taking Flight and spent the afternoon chilling under pool-side umbrellas while Savannah and Kara (6) splashed and wore out the slide.
It's beach party time !!!! We head back to the boat to dry out and prepare an appetizer dish to share - I'm trying to remember what I made... it's been a while. Oh yes, I did an olive, pickle, cheese, salami, cracker plate.
We met a handful of really nice couples. Let's see if I can recall some of them: Dave and Marissa on Pacifico, Larry and Karen from s/v Panta Rea, Howard and Lynn from s/v Swift Current, Ellen and Ian, the racing crew from Sirroco, and a handful more. I toasted with everyone as I celebrated my first cruisers beach potluck. I felt like I had become 'one of them'.
While we ate and drank, Kara, Autumn, Nick and Savannah enjoyed the surf and sand. They rolled, swam, dove, and tumbled until sand filled all their cracks and crevices. Tonight would be a shower night!
With bedtime for Savannah fast approaching, we packed up our empty appetizer plates and glasses and said good-night to the gang. As we motored back to Endorfin I thought about the fabulous evening and was grateful to meet other like-minded sailors. We would see them all again and enjoy more beach gatherings.
04/16/2011, Isla Isabella to Los Muertos
The anchor is up at 6:15 pm - it's only 216 nm to the Baja Peninsula - we are heading to Los Frailes anchorage.
Dan is sleeping, and I am listening to the Howard Stern Show. There are no boats on the hazy horizon and I am feeling OK about this whole nighttime, dark, sailing thing.
4am - Dan is back on watch and Lisa is OUT.
Savannah wakes me at 6:30 am. OMG my eyes are tired. She enjoys a beautiful sunrise with Daddy while I snooze a bit longer. In the galley, I prepare a quick and satisfying fried egg sandwich breakfast and then it's time for school for Miss Savannah.
Neither the time nor the engine stop. There is no wind for sailing. The day passes and before we realize the time, we are hungry for some Dorado on the BBQ. We enjoy natures perfect fish with some beet root salad. It's night-night time for Savannah and Mommy. My little sweetie rubs my back and we fall asleep together while Daddy maintains his watch.
11:15 pm - I awake to different weather. We have 20 plus knots of wind right on the nose and the course is uncomfortable - at 11:30 on 17 April, we change course to Los Muertos and level out the boat with a reef in the main. Dan heads below to get some needed sleep. At 1:30am, 18 April, I enjoy a full moon, flat seas, and a faint breeze. So far, it's a smooth passage.
At 3:30am I head below to wake Dan for his watch - Savannah thinks it's 'wake-up' time and proceeds to make the bed. We pull back the covers, and within a few minutes she is snoozing again and we cuddle till morning. Dan is alert and watching carefully for other boats. We are in thick, pea-soup style fog. The sun burns it off around 9am and Dan can rest his brain. He changes to dry clothes and gets some snooze time on the port settee in the cockpit. He has worked hard in the fog. Spongebob keeps Savannah content while I have a chance to catch up on the log and blog entries. We should arrive to Muertos in 4 hours. The sea is calm, the sun is up, and we are thrilled to have arrived back to the happiest place on earth - the Sea of Cortez.
04/16/2011, Mantachen Bay to Isla Isabella
Raised both anchors and set a course of 296 magnetic to see the nesting frigate birds of Isabella. The charts are off, so navigating is now serious business.
10 am - a huge pod of dolphins.
School begins today at 10:30.
We arrive to Isabella at 2:15 pm - in time to explore the island and frigate nests. The bay is lined with fishing huts and the locals point us in the right direction for some close up viewing of the baby frigates.
Along the way we meet a local family enjoying some R and R on the island. Savannah and the girls are quick to make friends and play. They offer some sweeties and share some giggles.
We must return to Endorfin and prepare for an evening departure.