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Another Sugar Loaf
Penny
24/04/2012, Anse a Cointre (Les Saintes)

Moved to Les Saintes and anchored in Anse a Cointre under the Sugar Loaf (another one). Two nice beaches and lovely snorking. Wide variety of fish corals and sponges with some huge black sea urchins thrown in for good measure.


Beware the Manchineel
Penny
23/04/2012, Cabrit

Anchored off Cabrit, did not go ashore yesterday as Chris back in bed with reoccurrence of his stomach upset, started antibiotics with my strict instructions to finish the course this time. Today feeling well enough to go ashore to explore, there are ruins of old fort. We followed track to some ruins, seemed like a small village with cistern (still intact) and evidence of relatively recent occupation (rusting tractors and car). Chris went ahead while I took photos and then I could not find him, went to end of village and retraced my steps, still no sign of him so continued on my own. Found the old fort at the top of the hill at other end of island, main walls still intact and other small buildings around (including two rather modern non operational toilets). Could not get pictures as too big close up and too much vegetation from a distance. Returned downhill (still no sign of Chris) and followed road to other side of the island there I found deserted hotel and numerous feral goats. I do not know what they eat as most of the trees seem to be manchaneel.
Returned to beach to find Chris in the water cooling off, he said he had continued beyond the village to top of hill. Said his eyes were sore when he came out, both very hot so returned to boat for drink. I went below to make cold drinks and heard a large splash, I thought Chris had fallen in.
Chris continues

'Must have been manchineel dust from the trees. As soon as I returned to the boat I dived into the sea and my eyes seems to explode. Very painful red and totally closed with spasm. Fortunately after application of ice Penny found Opatanol in the medicine chest and after an hour of quite excruciating pain things began to settle. Not a good day. Avoid manchineel completely in future'

Visit to Capital
Penny
19/04/2012, Basse Terre

Walked along the coast path to Basse Terre about 1.5 miles would have been easy (although not particularly scenic) if it had not been so hot and windless. We arrived at the market and Chris was ready to turn back but managed to persuade him to continue to town centre. Old town was all narrow grid pattern streets, the buildings mostly stone ground floor and wooden upper floors with balconies, rather scruffy but would be lovely if renovated. A place to wander through if not accompanied by Chris complaining about the heat (it was a bit hot 35). We had a McFlurry to cool down as Chris was still a bit cautious about local food after our stomach upsets on Nevis. Tourist Information Bureau provided us with some nice maps but said that Cathedral and Fort St Charles were closed at present due to renovations so we admired them and the town hall from the outside and returned to the market. A large modern shady building full of lovely smells from the fresh spices being sold in large bundles. I was very tempted, but what would I do with a carrier bag size bundle of cinnamon . Not too disappointed as had a large bag of melon, pineapple and mangoes (plus a few essential veggies) instead.


Back in France
Penny
18/04/2012, Basse Terre


Checked back into France after three days anchored off and unable to get ashore. We arrived late anchored off the beach south of Pointe Noire in the dark and were woken early hours of the morning by a change in motion to find we had dragged anchor and were out at sea! Quite windy so moved down the coast to bay by the Cousteau National Park, and dinghy distance from Pigeon Island. Strong winds continued and making anchorage very uncomfortable, when the anchor dragged again we gave up and tried another bay along the coast at Bouillante, where we spent another uncomfortable night and were still unable to go ashore. We are now outside Marina de Riviere Sens near BasseTerre. Why outside? Well it was badly damaged in a hurricane a few years ago and they have only just got around to renovations. There is a new fuel dock and new pontoons at one end but these are all double berthed with local boats while the sunken wrecks and other debris are fished out. It has been dredged at the entrance so fuel access is good.
Found a real butcher with fresh meat and boudin, but not much in way of fresh vegetables. Luckily still have some left from Nevis.


Party Time
Penny
08/04/2012, Beach at Sunshines Bar

Quiet morning on the boat as Chris not feeling well (?Ice creams or mince). Ananda was leaving lunchtime heading north (stopping at St Kitts and possibly Statia/Saba). Headed for the beach this afternoon as Chris was feeling better. Had a swim and then headed towards Sunshines bar where the beach party was in full swing. DJ with ground shaking music through shed sized speakers and stalls set up selling drinks and food (bar-b-q), very crowded both on the beach and in the water. A cricket match took up a lot of the beach and went on all afternoon. As darkness fell the familly element gradually dispersed leaving only the serious partyers.

Still no Gas
Penny
07/04/2012, Nevis

No gas (Saturday), so we cannot leave as they have our cylinders at the filling depot (we hope). We are promised that if there is still no gas they will return the empty cylinders on Tuesday. Shopped, as usual lovely selection of veggies on market and in addition we bought some sasparilla. Not much choice on meat again but at least it was in code, we could have had a nice piece of pig mouth or snout for 50p a lb but somehow were not tempted.
Tea and sundowners with Stella and Keith, beautiful sunset and we saw the green flash! No photograph though, you never have camera on hand when you need it. Managed a post flash picture though.

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