Hump-backed whale on Stellwagen Bank off Boston.

September 1, 2006
This morning we were in Buckle Harbor, a small harbor about 20 miles from Somes Sound, and the boatyard. We left home two days ago and arrived at Mt Desert Island in mid-afternoon. It's about a 7 hour drive, and we stopped in Ellsworth for a large grocery supply. So we unloaded everything and just sat at the dock for the night, as we had more to do before leaving.
Yesterday (Aug 31) we finished buying stuff, including another trip to West Marine, picked up the jib that was being repaired and then took the car to Northeast Harbor, where we put it in storage for the winter. We then took the free bus service back to the boatyard (well, close to the boatyard... we had a mile walk to get right there. We paid the final bill, and finally got away on out cruise at 3:40 pm (or 1540 hrs, to be official). Just as we were leaving the wind picked up to the point that it wouldn't be a great idea to put the jib on the roller furler, so we decided to motor out, and do it in the evening when the wind lightened.
We had a quiet motor over to Buckle Harbor, about two hours away, and were surprised to see two boats there ahead of us rafted together. That's not a problem, as in summer there can be up to 15 boats anchored on a nice night, but with September here, the boating traffic has just about disappeared. We're grateful to have the Espar cabin heater these mornings and evenings. As we finished putting on the jib, one of the people from the rafted boats rowed over, and invited us over for drinks. The smaller boat was a C&C Redwing 30 that was rafted to a Hinckley 51. We had an enjoyable time, sitting in the Redwing cockpit, but took a tour of the Hinckley (they had chartered it) before we left. It was very nice, but the layout didn't seem too efficient.
Back aboard, we had a nice halibut dinner with a tomato/basil/provolone accompaniment.
Today dawned nicely with no wind and after breakfast we said goodbye to our new friends, and motored out of Buckle Harbor. We crossed Jericho Bay in a calm weather, with lots of lobster fishermen and their pots to dodge. At the other side, as we entered Deer Island Thoroughfare the wind began to come up out of the north as predicted. Although cool, it was in our favour, so we welcomed it. We raised the main and motor-sailed through the thoroughfare, past the fishing town of Stonington and its Opera House, and out into Isle Au Haut Bay where we sailed across into Fox Island Thoroughfare, between Vinalhaven and North Haven Islands. We had a nice lunch of Crab Melt on foccacia bread for lunch as we sailed through. Then out and across Penobscott Bay, into Muscle Ridge Channel (no, its not spelled Mussel), and down into Port Clyde for the night. We went ashore for a short walk, but after a long day, we were ready for supper (tuna steaks with a wasabi sauce), and to bed.

September 2, 2006
This morning, the weather forecast was for strong easterlies, so we were off about 8 am to take advantage of the favorable winds. Leaving Port Clyde under sail, we sailed directly south out along the eastern shore of Muscongus Bay and then westerly towards Boothbay, where we intended to spend the night. The weather forecast is warning of wind and rain for tomorrow associated with the remnants of Hurricane Ernesto, so we may not be sailing tomorrow. But we were at Boothbay by noon, so decided to carry on, taking advantage of the favorable wind direction. With easterlies of 20 knots, and gusts to 30, we had a quick trip down, and were at Jewell Island by late afternoon. We were surprised to find the small protected anchorage so full, with six other sail boats (one which we had met earlier in the summer, and a couple from Cape Breton, also headed for the Bahamas) and a number of small local power boats. Jewell Island is a state park, and located just a few miles form downtown Portland; it is usually busy in summer. But with the cool wind, and a forecast for rain and more wind, we expected it to be empty. But we found a nice protected spot to anchor, and went ashore for a hike. Jewell Island was used as a military post in World War II, and the remains of observation towers and gun foundations are still very evident, so we explored them. In spite of the howling winds, the protection was excellent, and we enjoyed a nice evening (thanks gain to the Espar heater) and had veal chops for dinner.

September 3, 2006
Today dawned very much as we expected, cold, wet and windy. Our options from here are limited. Either we head for Wood Island Harbor (also known as Biddeford Pool) that is 18 miles away (about 3 hours) or Isle of Shoals, about 48 miles away. But protection from the east at Wood Islands Harbor is not great, and we're not too keen to spend 8 hours in the cold and wet slogging it to Isle of Shoals, so we stayed put, busying ourselves with the many items on the maintenance list. My first job was to replace the pump in the forward head... not a fun task, but finished without too much fuss (or mess). And then I did a bunch more, then we went ashore for a hike to an area called The Punchbowl. We timed our walk perfectly to coincide with the heaviest rain of the day, so were ready for hot showers when we got back aboard. Tomorrow will be a long day to Isle of Shoals, and longer because the wind is forecast to swing around to the south-west, the direction we will be traveling. But that's the price we pay for not going today when it is with us.

September 4, 2006
Well, the forecast was correct, with the wind swinging to the west. And with us traveling south-west, that means close hauled all the way. But it created a nice sail, and we were able to make the Isles of Shoals in one long tack. The wind varied through the day, so we were at times sailing, then motoring, and then motor-sailing. But we had a good (but long) day. We left Jewell Island at 7 am and arrived at Isles of Shoals (which is just off Portsmouth, New Hampshire) at about 5 pm. The islands are small, but each one very different. I will post some pictures of them. The problem is that you are not permitted to land on them for various reasons. And the harbor is small and deep, so anchoring is difficult. However the yacht clubs in Portsmouth have installed moorings for their members that can be used by visitors if members don't need them. And being Monday night after the Labor Day weekend, we guessed (correctly) that there would be vacant ones. But today we left Maine, so are beginning to feel as if we are really on our way!!!

September 5, 2006
Thar she blows!!! Another early start, as we had a long day (63 nm). We set out at 7 am, having breakfast underway. We wanted to get away early both due to the length of our planned day, but also to take advantage of the north-westerly breeze which would give us a nice broad reach on our way to Provincetown. Off Seabrook we could easily make out the huge reactor dome and buildings of Seabrook Nuclear Plant. It was clearly visible from ten miles out. The breeze held until Cape Ann, Mass. Then it drifted into the south and lightened. So we began motor-sailing, along with two other boats that were on the same course. Off Boston we could see the tall buildings from 15 miles out. But as we passed into the Stellwagen Bank area, we were surrounded by tour boats from Boston, Cape Ann and Provincetown (our destination). And shortly after, we were in the midst of a large pod of Hump-backed Whales! We stopped and watched as they surfaced, blew spray into the air, and dove again, throwing their huge tails high into the air. Once in a while, one would surface and lie there with its head out of the water, as if looking around. Then seagulls would land and begin to feed. We are guessing that the wales are waiting for the gulls to pick off sea lice or something. And at other times, one would just swim along the surface for a few minutes then dive deep. But we knew we had to push onn to reach Provincetown in time to pick up some supplies (and view the very interesting counter-culture on display). About 20 miles out we were able to see the huge Pilgrims Monument that stands 348' above the town. We picked up a mooring (as it is a bit deep to anchor and the forecast was for 20-25 knot winds overnight), launched the dinghy (we travel with it upside down on the foredeck) and went ashore. And we weren't disappointed in the scenery. A very entertaining sociological study! Tomorrow we plan to go through the Cape Cod Canal into Buzzards Bay. To do so requires timing the currents in the canal to be in our favor. That means arriving at the canal in late morning. As it is 25 miles away, we will leave around 8 am, and take the benefit of the forecast North-east winds for a quick sail across Cape Cod Bay.

September 6, 2006
Well, so much for the wind forecast. It rained all night, but no wind, and no wind today, so we are motoring across the bay and arrived at the canal about 30 minutes later than planned. But we should still be in time for the tide, although about an hour later than planned. The currents in the canal are very strong, meaning that it is important that you time your trip to have the current in your direction. As we entered the canal, we listened to the weather forecast announcing winds from the north-west. This would be ideal, as, after exiting the canal we were headed south-west, giving us a nice beam reach. But at the time we were experiencing winds from the south-west (precisely in the direction we were headed). It seems to me that it would be a good idea to equip all weather forecasters with windows so that they can look outside before announcing the weather. So when we exited the canal into Buzzards Bay, we were faced with a wind precisely out of the direction we wanted to go. But it was a nice (15 kts) wind, so we hoisted sail and beat into it down Buzzards Bay and into Hadley Harbor, just outside Woods Hole. As we entered the small harbor (it is surrounded by lands that are held in trust and not developed) we thought we saw just one boat in the harbor. But as we wound our way in to the most beautiful anchorage we have yet seen, we found another dozen boats ahead of us. As we worked our way in, another visitor told us to pick up a mooring at the head of the harbor. We settled in, in a warm evening (there is a difference in both air and water temperatures when you pass through the canal) with coconut shrimp and Portuguese bread pudding (from Provincetown) with whipped cream for dinner in the cockpit and we watched the full moon rise as we ate.