Typical Late November, San Blas, Panama

We left the East Lemons and sailed in weather that quickly made us forget the screaming squalls of the previous night. In light northerlies we beam-reached eastward in the lee of the reefs down past the end of the East Lemons and across to the Holandase Cays, about 8 miles away.
The Holandes are a group of cays stretching along another reef structure about 6 miles long. Although called the most popular anchorages in the San Blas, we found few boats there. With anchorages named "The Swimming Pool" and "The Hot Tub", we expected a crowd, but were pleasantly surprised at the few boats we met. Inside the Swimming Pool we found six other boats in a huge, but calm anchorage.
The seas were completely broken down by the reef. We watched as wave after wave pounded the reef, spraying high in the air, leaving us in glass calm waters. Anchored, we took the dinghy over to a nearby small palm covered cay and enjoyed a walk around it, then a swim in the bath tub like waters. Back aboard the breeze drifted through the cockpit to make a perfect evening of star-gazing.
Yesterday morning we headed out and sailed 8 miles down to one of the Kuna towns in the area. It is actually two towns, each on a small island joined by a foot bridge. The towns of Nargana and Corazon de Jesus are really a collection of huts with the one substantial structure being the Bank de Panama. Otherwise, homes were thatch roof huts and bamboo walls.
Anchoring in the small harbour, we were met by an ulu (dugout canoe) with a man who introduced himself as Frederico. Our cruising guide mentioned him as a reputable guide and general help to cruisers. He took our garbage for $1, assuring it would be properly burned. Often locals take the garbage for a fee then just toss it aside, as could be seen from the garbage strewn along the shore. We checked out the airport where Sarah will be leaving from in January, primitive but functional. Then back to the town and Frederico took us to various "tiendas" (small stores) operated out of their homes.
By the time we had finished we had Pina (pineapple), bananas, lettuce, tomatos, carrots and eggs, not bad as we had been told fresh supplies were non-existant. Then we topped up the dinghy fuel. Frederico directed us to a tiny dock where we pulled up, a few minutes later a man came out with two gallon jugs (originally juice containers) filled with gasoline. With a large funnel and a rag for a filter, we topped off our tank.
Saying good-by, we gave Frederico $5 for a fund he keeps to help some of the handicapped children on the islands. And there are more than a few. With the shallow gene pool, handicapped children, including an unusual number of Albino children are often seen. Then out to Kalidup for the night that brought with it a few more squalls just to keep us alert. Today, off to the Coco Banderos Cays, a whopping 3 miles away, for some snorkling.