Just cruising around
26 January 2012 | Nomulu
Sunny, min 72F, max 84F, water temp 80.5F, Wind NE@12-18
Downtown Carti
We got back to the boat at Green turtle Marina on Sunday, Jan 22nd, loaded with more supplies. Green Turtle is an odd marina. With substantial docks and room for about 75 boats, there were two boats in obvious storage and two, including us, with people aboard. Other than docks, there is nothing even remotely nearby... no showers, no internet, no dockmaster. Entry to the marina can be hairy. Opening on a small bay, itself open to the ocean, it is subject to the large ocean swells pushing you in. Originally there were two orange balls to guide you in, but one is now missing. With the swell pushing you in and the waves crashing ashore on either side and ahead of you, it can be a tough approach. It is literally, make a mistake, loose the boat. The first two times we entered it wasn't so bad with the swell not running straight in. This time we did some impressive rolling, but because we knew the entry, we carried on. A number of boats start in and just quit, turning and leaving. When we arrived, we were met with three laborers who each ran down to a different dock and began yelling at us in Spanish and waving madly. After a few frustrating minutes, we decided on which dock we would take (lots of space available) and just headed in. Again all three wanted to pull on the lines without seeming regard for the consequences. But after a bit of yelling on my part and a few minor bumps, we were in. Our exit on Monday was equally hair-raising. Walking down to check it out before we left, we watched waves breaking in a spot where we had never before seen it... a new shoal to avoid discovered. But we made it out and were safely anchored in the East Lemons by late afternoon. That night we welcomed a heavy shower to wash the salt from our trip off the boat. Tuesday was spent relaxing and organizing things aboard. Two nights here and we were ready to move on. So we set sail for a new (to us) destination, Gunboat Cay where we met up again with Bruce and Nancy Montgomery on Seabird. Another "visual navigation" entry through a small cut in the reef and we found our anchorage. By now we are getting used to anchoring in deep water... 40' is not unusual, with 200' of chain holding us securely. Not the calmest night, and with no place to land (Gunboat is tiny and has a number of Kuna homes on it), so in the morning we headed out for more exploration, sailing another 5 miles to the island-town of Carti. Here we were met by "the harbormaster" in his ulu, showing us where to anchor. And he was helpful as the water went from 65' to 15' in about one boatlength. Then he arranged with us for a shopping tour of tht island. About 1/4 mile in diameter, it holds 1700 people in very tight quarters, often with no more that 3' between huts. Pickings were scarce, but we came away with some fresh fruit and a few veggies. After our bumpy night in Gunboat we decided Carti's open anchorage was not for us, so another short jog to uninhabited Nonomulu where we tucked safely behind the island out all the swell. Anchoring was a major project as the windlass decided to both jam and have a foot switch fail. But after some sweaty work, the anchor was set and drinks in the cool evening made it all just a memory. This morning, after a beautiful (read calm) night, time to work on the windlass, and after two hours, it seems to be back in order. But it is on the Replacement List for the summer. The rest of the day was spent on a few more odd jobs and exploring, then deciding how to cook three huge crabs we bought from a couple of Kuna fishermen. Dinner tonight, seafood medly.