Cruising in Paradise
13 February 2012 | Salardup, Kuna Yale, Panama
Sunny, min 74F, max 85F, water temp 79.5F, Wind NE@10-15
Naguarchirdup Beach
Somehow I have managed to be delinquent and have not posted a blog for some time. But we've been busy... for a good part of the time trying to find food. Not very easy to find at the best of times, there was a protest in Panama City that blocked all food shipments for about 10 days, so that the village "tiendas" were pretty much empty. We have been wandering through the islands enjoying snorkeling, beach walking and talking with the natives. Somehow we seem to have gotten to know more of them than other cruisers.
From Isla Gerti, we tired of the 18-22 knot winds and headed for nearby Bahia Nalia, Here we found welcome relief in a quiet mangrove-lined anchorage... until dusk and the no-see-ems descended. We dove below and next morning were off early to the nearby village of Wichubhuala where we found one onion, two tomatoes, two potatoes and all the beer you could ever want.
Then to the West Lemmons, anchoring in the lee of Naguarchirdup, site of the only internet access in Kuna Yale, and a bar where we met a few fellow cruisers. From there off to Waisaladup with excellent snorkeling. Here we had the anchorage to ourselves until Le Levant, a small cruise ship dumped 150 people on the tiny beach complete with beach umbrellas and portable bar. But they only stayed a few hours.
On the unusually crowded beach, we chatted with Salar (Chief) Julio who was looking a bit lost in the crowd. He recognized us from taking his son to the dentist in Nargana a few weeks ago and seemed delighted to see a friendly face. From here, we sailed to Salardup, the most beautiful anchorage yet, surrounded by a ring of six palm covered cays. We'll stay here for a few days.
Now to boat problems... The engine is still acting up. Last week I filled the bilge with oil, owing to a leak at the oil pressuer sender. After some quality time in the engine room on my stomach across the engine, I found the oil pressure sender loose. Tightening that seems to have done the trick.
But now, when warm, the low oil pressure alarm goes off. I am almost certain it is a faulty sender, caused by our oil cooler leak last fall. That let coolant into the oil, and Westerbeke says that that will usually bake the sender. But if not, big problem. So I need it checked by a mechanic with a pressure gauge.
And the bottom is a mess. If an environmentalist saw it, they would try to get it designated as a marine botanical garden. So I have been spending an hour or so a day cleaning with mask & snorkel, but making only slow progress. And last night, the generator failed, so I spent the morning replacing the raw water impeller and cleaning the water intake from fantastic looking creatures.
Since we have to travel to Colon (about 100 miles west) we decided to have the boat hauled at Shelter Bay Marina and get the bottom cleaned and painted. Locating paint has been a 4 day project, but I think I am on the verge of success. And I am trying to get a mechanic from a Mastervolt (our generator) dealer to look at the generator at the same time. It has major governor problems. It will be a miracle if I can co-ordinate it all, but I'm trying, using our super- cheap cell phone service.
And speaking of our cell phone, we have learned how to use it to get on the internet. So far, we have been using it only in remote areas with weak coverage, and very slow response, but it does improve things.
And the last of the news is we have decided to take a trip to Peru when the boat is out of the water next week. It will be out for a week, so we'll do some off-boat touring including Machu Pichu and all Peru's finest in a 10 day trip! So Friday we'll head back west, taking a few days, stopping at some places we passed on our trip down in November.