Jeannie & Vennacio

The names of the islands in the San Blas are fantastic.
We left Isla Linton on Saturday after poking about some more in the dinghy and a last internet fix for quite a while. Poking through the mangroves, we found a path to nearby Panamarina. Not really a marina, it is a mooring field with about 40 long term storage boats of widly varying quality. Ashore is a small restaurant with some pretty odd but friendly characters. And the start of a travelift facility, one of quite a few that have been started in Panama. But so far only one has been completed.
Back aboard, we raised the anchor and headed out. Next to Isla Linton is Isla Grande, reported to be a touristy place. We motored through past it, but were able to resist its questionable charms. Then along the coast for 10 miles to Green Turtle Marina.
We wanted to check it out as an option for leaving Estelle in December when we head home. I got the phone number on their web site and from the pictures, it looked fantastic. It took four calls before we finally spoke to someone who was actually able to tell us "Yes we have room", So we headed in. And they did indeed have room, lots of it.
In a marina that has capacity for about 50 boats, they had six. The best part.... free for the night, electricity included! So we decided that it looks good for leaving Estelle. We were assured that when we return there will be a restaurant in full operation...we'll see. Oh yes, yet another travelift installation under construction.
Sunday we headed out for the San Blas Islands. Our favorable winds finally deserted us, leaving us motoring for the day. So it was late afternoon as we approached the Chichime Cays. As we did so, a belch of black smoke and flames erupted from a boat. Checking with the binoculars we could see it was ashore on a reef. It turns out it ran ashore a few weeks ago. The owner stripped it of everything of value and then decided to burn it. Its a shame as now there is a burned-out hulk resting at the entrance to a beautiful anchorage. Our other surprise was the 30 boats already anchored.
These islands are not now remote. Before our anchor was properly set, our first Kunas were alongside trying to sell us molas. Of poor quality (Jeannie has been doing her homework... its going to be a Mola Christmas) we declined. They didn't budge. For a half hour they just sat hanging on to the boat watching us. Finally they drifted off and another cayuka was alongside trying to sell lobster. For one of 1.5 lbs or so and one 1.0 lbs or so they wanted $15.00!!! More than I would pay at home. We declined. The third and last visitor offered a variety of services from boat cleaning to laundry or tour guide. We may take him up on the laundry. He left us his business card and cell phone number. In spite of the fact that they live without electricity in primitive conditions, they all have cell phones.
This morning we headed out to El Porvenir to check in and surrender our zarpe. A 30 second and free process, after waiting 1/2 hour for two boats checking on to the country. Then out to the cays! Our first plan was an anchorage in the West Lemmons, but it had about 30 boats and looked pretty commercial. Plan B, the East Lemmons was just a few miles beyond, so we arrived mid-afternoon in a rain squall, but safely anchored with a half dozen other boats.
Then the trouble startedf (for me, at least)... a cayuka alongside. But this time Jeannie was keen; it was Vennacio, one of the San Blas most famous mola makers. An hour later after studying hundreds of molas, our Christmas shopping was done and Jeannie was a happy camper.
Out in the dinghy, a walk under the palms on Nuiudup and back for a cool-down swim. Fresh tuna ($2) for dinner! Tomorrow, more molas (the famous transvestite Lisa) then on to the Hollandase cays and the "Swimming Pool" anchorage.