Tempus Fugit
21 January 2012 | San Bls, Panama
Sunny, Daytime Temp 30C, nighttime temp 21F, Wind NE@12-20kts
Sarah enjoying the Holandes Cays
Well, I don't know how I have done it, but we have been back on board since Jan 7th, and no time for the blog. So here's a short summary:
After 2 weeks in BC skiing and visiting family, we flew from Vancouver to Panama City on Jan 6th with daughter Sarah. Both Jeannie and I were suffering from a sort of flu, but we headed back. I was feeling OK, but the descent was really painful for Jeannie. In Panama City we spent the night then headed for Green Turtle Marina, but not without a major grocery shopping expedition in Colon. Quite hectic, but as there are virtually no provisions available in the San Blas Islands, we really needed to stock up, and did so. Somehow at home we can't go two days without going to the grocery store, but here in a little over an hour we had three shopping carts loaded with provisions for (we hoped) a month.
Back at the boat we loaded and stored provisions into the evening. Next morning we headed out to the San Blas. The wind was NE@12-18, and our course ENE to ESE, so it was a close hauled day (46 miles) and we arrived at Chichime, the closest San Blas anchorage, in late afternoon with an excellent coating of salt all over the boat.
Anchoring took a few attempts to get well set in 45', not my favorite anchoring depth, but all went well, and we settled in for drinks on deck and dinner as the sun set behind the palms.
Monday morning we did a quick sail down to the East Lemons, another group of cays where Sarah and I snorkeled the nearby reef. We walked ashore on Banadup. But Jeannie's condition was deteriorating, so next morning we headed down to the village of Nargana where there is a small clinic. Here the doctor prescribed medication for both of us as I was none too hot also. Sarah with her medical training and excellent Spanish was a huge help in getting us sorted out.
Back aboard, we had an impressive array of decongestants, cough sirup, ibuphrophin, and anti-biotics. All for $41.00, with no charge for the doctor.
Next morning I was recovering quickly and we set sail for West Holandes Cays where we anchored in the lee of Narguadup and ???. We spent three days here, walking ashore and meeting the Chief (Julio) and the locals, and enjoying spectacular snorkeling just off the boat. Time flew past until it was time to head back to Nargana where Sarah caught her flight to Panama City and back to Vancouver. As we were saying good-by to Chief Julio, he asked if we could take a boy back to Nargana to see the dentist bout a toothache. No problemo. By the time we left, we had three passengers and a load of coconuts aboard. But it was a beautiful 2 hour sail in fresh winds, so all was well.
Another visit to the doctor, and he wasn't pleased with Jeannie's progerss, so we stayed put and had a series of daily visits. In the mean time, I spent three frustrating days on the engine, trying to figure out why it stalls at low speed, just as we are approaching the anchorage... not a good thing. And more engine alarms. After three days, I finally found some bad connections that caused the voltage regulator to shut down and the system voltage to be so low that the fuel solenoid dropped out, shutting off the fuel supply. So with some cleaning, all now seems fine.
In company with Seabird, who had come into Nargana with us, we took a trip up the Rio Diablo, which empties into the Caribbean at Nargana. Our tour guide (and new best friend) Frederico, guided us across the shallow bar and into the river, past a 6' Caiman (type of alligator). We quietly dinghied up the six miles to the point where it became too shallow. The river was busy with ulu's (dugouts) paddling up for fresh water. There is a pipe tht normally supplies water to the village from the fresh spring, but it broke last fall and has not yet been repaired. So a lot of the natives work is just lugging water from 6 miles away. Not having to paddle, we found the river beautiful, but if I were doing it for water, it would be hard work indeed.
A final visit to the Doctor confirmed what we had been suspecting... time to see a specialist in Panama City. So Thursday we headed back to Green Turtle Marina and taxied in to the city. Within two hours, we had not only been able to make an appointment, but also had been seen by an ENT specialist. He confirmed the nature of the problem, but assured us that it was on the mend and that continued treatment would see everything back in order.
Much relieved, and with some new meds, we are now enjoying a couple of days in Panama City, compliments (I hope) of Blue Cross! It also gives us a much needed opportunity for re-stocking in groceries. So tomorrow will see us back to the boat and off to enjoy the remote beauty of some of the worlds most beautiful cruising.
I have added a photo gallery of San Blas pics.