Wherin we make our escape from Nassau to The Exumas!
12 December 2006 | Highbourne Cay, Exumas
Jim Lea
There is a local fish and vegetable market in Nassau not far from the marina, Potters Cay. And there is also, in the opposite direction, about the same distance, a supermarket. So on Monday morning we decided to check out the local market, thinking we would see a combination of local color, fresher produce and, with luck, lower prices. We first checked out a vegetable stand where we bought some tomatoes, mango, cabbage and sweet potatoes. The price seemed just a bit above OK, but we went for it. Moving to the fish boat (holding our breath for the stench) we walked up to a fishing boat unloading the nights catch, and selected a fish. When picked up, it began flopping around. The name of the buyer was "Alive and Kicking" and that was accurate. They beat it over the head a few times, passed it to someone who would fillet it for us and he began by de-scaling it. And the fish began to flap again. He grinned and said we were getting a fresh fish. De-scaling done, he began to fillet it, and held it down again as it still hadn't given up. But filleting did it!. Then all that was left was to pass over $20 for about .5 kg of fish!
We hustled up to the supermarket for a dose of more realistic prices, stowed our supplies and prepared to cast off. Getting away about noon in esterlies of 20 kts meant that The Exumas, about 30 nm away was out, so we set off for West Bottom Harbor, just 5 nm east of Nassau. Arriving to find two other Canadian boats, we tried anchoring with our 44 lb Bruce anchor that we always use, but in the high winds and shallow sand it would not dig in, so we drifted to leeward. Then I set our Fortress anchor, better for sand, and it caught immediately. I may have to consider a permenant switch meaning shifting the Bruce to the chain/rope rode, and the Fortress to the all chain. I'll think about it.
Having settled in by mid-afternoon gave time for some fun, so for the first time I went snorkling in the Bahamas. Not a whole lot to see, but a bit of coral and a few fish. But fun! That night was our $20 fish grilled with a tapenade sauce with asparagus and salad. And a nice cold Chardonnay!
Next morning, Tuesday, we were off early to the Exumas, lifting the anchor at 7:30 am and off before the wind rose too much. We had a close reach over to Highbourne Cay where we furled the sails and motored into the lee of the cay where we anchored. After settling in, another first... taking the dinghy ashore on a deserted tropical beach! Then both of us went snorkling, where I harassed the fish with my pole spear, but did no permenant damage! So steak for dinner with the last of the salad, and a nice Chianti!