02/06/2012, West Lemons, Kuna Yale, Panama
The only internet access in the San Blas, max capacity, three users!
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02/03/2012, West Lemons, Kuna Yale, Panama
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01/31/2012, Ali Tupu
Funeral Procession
Yesterday we went ashore on Ali Tupu, the small island we're anchored off. We went in the morning because we knew there would be a funeral in the afternoon and didn't want to impose on it. Ashore we met the head priest, preparing for the funeral. Their religion is a sort of mixture between Christianity and their traditional one. The funeral was to be held in a Baptist church, and we provided some white paint to paint the cross. We also donated some bug spray for the ceremony (having been asked for it). Then we met the village Interpreter. About 70 years old, his english was excellent, learned when he worked for the American administration at the canal. I assumed (wrongly) that his title as Interpreter referred to his being able to greet and interpret between the locals and us visitors. He told us about the island, took us around it (200' long, 100' wide), showing us how they have been building it up to combat the rising ocean levels. We visited the school (vacation time here) and had a very informative visit to the island's "Congresso". The Congresso, held Monday and Friday evenings, is open to every villager. But the Sailar (Chief) is in charge. Inside the Congresso, benches were formed in a square with a clearing in the center where a hammock for the chief is slung. When the congresso meets, important issues are raised and discussed. The Silar's decision is communicated through song while in his hammock, and the "Interpreter" then interprets the Sialar's decision to all present. The Interpreter has a special seat, of which he is justly proud, having held his position since 1959. Sialars are elected for life by a free vote by all villagers. Inside the Congresso, Alberto showed us the fermenting "Sugar Wine" made yesterday, for an upcoming celebration. We think it is a sort of presentation into adulthood of village girls who have reached 12 years of age. The "wine" ferments for 9 days, then everyone gets to drink a cup. "Lots of talking" laughed Alberto. Like most villages, Ali Tupu is located on a small island just off the mainland. Huts are built on land that individuals "build" by gathering soil from the nearby mainland and collection coral boulders to form a breakwater. Alberto (the Interpreter) seems to be well off with three houses... one for sleeping, one for cooking and one for day-time use. And he is constructing a fourth... "just in case". When he came to the island, there were just three families and 22 people. Now the huts are spilling over the edges, crowded close together. Diet seems to consist of fish, small reef fish or the occasional small tuna, rice and local fruit (papayas, bananas, pineapples), yucca and a few vegetables. The local Tienda (store) held nothing fresh. In the afternoon we kept away out of respect. The graveyard is on the mainland, half a mile up a small river (their source of fresh water). In early afternoon we watched the procession (two large pangas with outboard motors) head across. The women were all traditionally dressed with bright red scarves. The priest was in the front of the lead panga, chanting his way across and up the river. Funerals are extended affairs here. The church ceremony was held shortly after one o'clock, and by two they were on their way to the graveyard. But the interpreter told us that it would not be until 5:30 pm that the body, wrapped in a hammock, would be lowered into the ground; 5:30 pm is a special hour for the Kuna. In mid-afternoon we went ashore on the mainland for a walk, and could clearly hear all the chatter, men, women and children, practically the entire island, as they waited. As Alberto told us, they are a traditional island, but he can see changes coming and wonders what the future holds. We do too.
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01/28/2012, Ali Tupu
Dinner, if I can figure out how to cook it
Yesterday we left Nonomulu heading west into the Gulf of San Blas. Winding our way out of our anchorage between the reefs, we headed down through another channel where we watched in amazement as a small cruise ship ran down in. Taking a ship that size is to me an act of extreme courage. We followed down, passing Acuadup, then out another passage between the reefs, for a short 4 mile sail to the Robeson Islands , the westernmost group of islands in Kuna Yale. Shortly after noon, we anchored off three small hut-covered islands, and soon a stream of ulus began to make their way out to us offering fruit, services, and molas. We are clearly off the cruisers path here. When we arrived there was one other boat, from Switzerland, anchored here. Chatting with them, they said they had been here before and found it the nicest place they had found in the San Blas. They recommended a couple of guided trips that we arranged ashore, while buying some delicious fried bread... not the most healthy, but it won't be a steady diet, so we'll go for it. So we're here for a few days then we'll push on to an interesting sounding anchorage up a nearby river.
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01/26/2012, Nomulu
Downtown Carti
We got back to the boat at Green turtle Marina on Sunday, Jan 22nd, loaded with more supplies. Green Turtle is an odd marina. With substantial docks and room for about 75 boats, there were two boats in obvious storage and two, including us, with people aboard. Other than docks, there is nothing even remotely nearby... no showers, no internet, no dockmaster. Entry to the marina can be hairy. Opening on a small bay, itself open to the ocean, it is subject to the large ocean swells pushing you in. Originally there were two orange balls to guide you in, but one is now missing. With the swell pushing you in and the waves crashing ashore on either side and ahead of you, it can be a tough approach. It is literally, make a mistake, loose the boat. The first two times we entered it wasn't so bad with the swell not running straight in. This time we did some impressive rolling, but because we knew the entry, we carried on. A number of boats start in and just quit, turning and leaving. When we arrived, we were met with three laborers who each ran down to a different dock and began yelling at us in Spanish and waving madly. After a few frustrating minutes, we decided on which dock we would take (lots of space available) and just headed in. Again all three wanted to pull on the lines without seeming regard for the consequences. But after a bit of yelling on my part and a few minor bumps, we were in. Our exit on Monday was equally hair-raising. Walking down to check it out before we left, we watched waves breaking in a spot where we had never before seen it... a new shoal to avoid discovered. But we made it out and were safely anchored in the East Lemons by late afternoon. That night we welcomed a heavy shower to wash the salt from our trip off the boat. Tuesday was spent relaxing and organizing things aboard. Two nights here and we were ready to move on. So we set sail for a new (to us) destination, Gunboat Cay where we met up again with Bruce and Nancy Montgomery on Seabird. Another "visual navigation" entry through a small cut in the reef and we found our anchorage. By now we are getting used to anchoring in deep water... 40' is not unusual, with 200' of chain holding us securely. Not the calmest night, and with no place to land (Gunboat is tiny and has a number of Kuna homes on it), so in the morning we headed out for more exploration, sailing another 5 miles to the island-town of Carti. Here we were met by "the harbormaster" in his ulu, showing us where to anchor. And he was helpful as the water went from 65' to 15' in about one boatlength. Then he arranged with us for a shopping tour of tht island. About 1/4 mile in diameter, it holds 1700 people in very tight quarters, often with no more that 3' between huts. Pickings were scarce, but we came away with some fresh fruit and a few veggies. After our bumpy night in Gunboat we decided Carti's open anchorage was not for us, so another short jog to uninhabited Nonomulu where we tucked safely behind the island out all the swell. Anchoring was a major project as the windlass decided to both jam and have a foot switch fail. But after some sweaty work, the anchor was set and drinks in the cool evening made it all just a memory. This morning, after a beautiful (read calm) night, time to work on the windlass, and after two hours, it seems to be back in order. But it is on the Replacement List for the summer. The rest of the day was spent on a few more odd jobs and exploring, then deciding how to cook three huge crabs we bought from a couple of Kuna fishermen. Dinner tonight, seafood medly.
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01/21/2012, San Bls, Panama
Sarah enjoying the Holandes Cays
Well, I don't know how I have done it, but we have been back on board since Jan 7th, and no time for the blog. So here's a short summary:
After 2 weeks in BC skiing and visiting family, we flew from Vancouver to Panama City on Jan 6th with daughter Sarah. Both Jeannie and I were suffering from a sort of flu, but we headed back. I was feeling OK, but the descent was really painful for Jeannie. In Panama City we spent the night then headed for Green Turtle Marina, but not without a major grocery shopping expedition in Colon. Quite hectic, but as there are virtually no provisions available in the San Blas Islands, we really needed to stock up, and did so. Somehow at home we can't go two days without going to the grocery store, but here in a little over an hour we had three shopping carts loaded with provisions for (we hoped) a month.
Back at the boat we loaded and stored provisions into the evening. Next morning we headed out to the San Blas. The wind was NE@12-18, and our course ENE to ESE, so it was a close hauled day (46 miles) and we arrived at Chichime, the closest San Blas anchorage, in late afternoon with an excellent coating of salt all over the boat.
Anchoring took a few attempts to get well set in 45', not my favorite anchoring depth, but all went well, and we settled in for drinks on deck and dinner as the sun set behind the palms.
Monday morning we did a quick sail down to the East Lemons, another group of cays where Sarah and I snorkeled the nearby reef. We walked ashore on Banadup. But Jeannie's condition was deteriorating, so next morning we headed down to the village of Nargana where there is a small clinic. Here the doctor prescribed medication for both of us as I was none too hot also. Sarah with her medical training and excellent Spanish was a huge help in getting us sorted out.
Back aboard, we had an impressive array of decongestants, cough sirup, ibuphrophin, and anti-biotics. All for $41.00, with no charge for the doctor.
Next morning I was recovering quickly and we set sail for West Holandes Cays where we anchored in the lee of Narguadup and ???. We spent three days here, walking ashore and meeting the Chief (Julio) and the locals, and enjoying spectacular snorkeling just off the boat. Time flew past until it was time to head back to Nargana where Sarah caught her flight to Panama City and back to Vancouver. As we were saying good-by to Chief Julio, he asked if we could take a boy back to Nargana to see the dentist bout a toothache. No problemo. By the time we left, we had three passengers and a load of coconuts aboard. But it was a beautiful 2 hour sail in fresh winds, so all was well.
Another visit to the doctor, and he wasn't pleased with Jeannie's progerss, so we stayed put and had a series of daily visits. In the mean time, I spent three frustrating days on the engine, trying to figure out why it stalls at low speed, just as we are approaching the anchorage... not a good thing. And more engine alarms. After three days, I finally found some bad connections that caused the voltage regulator to shut down and the system voltage to be so low that the fuel solenoid dropped out, shutting off the fuel supply. So with some cleaning, all now seems fine.
In company with Seabird, who had come into Nargana with us, we took a trip up the Rio Diablo, which empties into the Caribbean at Nargana. Our tour guide (and new best friend) Frederico, guided us across the shallow bar and into the river, past a 6' Caiman (type of alligator). We quietly dinghied up the six miles to the point where it became too shallow. The river was busy with ulu's (dugouts) paddling up for fresh water. There is a pipe tht normally supplies water to the village from the fresh spring, but it broke last fall and has not yet been repaired. So a lot of the natives work is just lugging water from 6 miles away. Not having to paddle, we found the river beautiful, but if I were doing it for water, it would be hard work indeed.
A final visit to the Doctor confirmed what we had been suspecting... time to see a specialist in Panama City. So Thursday we headed back to Green Turtle Marina and taxied in to the city. Within two hours, we had not only been able to make an appointment, but also had been seen by an ENT specialist. He confirmed the nature of the problem, but assured us that it was on the mend and that continued treatment would see everything back in order.
Much relieved, and with some new meds, we are now enjoying a couple of days in Panama City, compliments (I hope) of Blue Cross! It also gives us a much needed opportunity for re-stocking in groceries. So tomorrow will see us back to the boat and off to enjoy the remote beauty of some of the worlds most beautiful cruising.
I have added a photo gallery of San Blas pics.
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12/08/2011, Green Turtle Marina, Panama
Recharged! Cell phones, that is...
Our overnight in The Hot Tub eventually streched to three nights. The plan was one or two, but we just never got away. But we are not unusual. On our second morning a boat came in with a German flag. On our way out snorkeling we stopped by. They have spent the last ten winters here... not just in the San Blas, but here in the Hot Tub! Seems to be that sort of place.
With the great variety of scenery, both above and below the surface, we were well entertained. In addition, it was time to begin to think about leaving the boat for a month when we go back to Canada for Christmas. We had a few visits from he Kuna, not selling but asking for us to re-charge their cell phones! An incredible contrast as they paddle up in their dugout ulus, waving a cell phone and charger! But we were happy to oblige.
So the days passed quickly. But the squalls still hung on. They seem to be at their best at night, but having the anchor hold through 40 knots, we were relatively relaxed through them (I checked the anchor out diving, and it was totally burried, a great sign).
But on Tuesday it was time to leave, staging for our run back to Green Turtle Marina. So we headed back to the East Lemons where we spent an unusually quiet night. Then the next day we sailed 35 miles back to Green Turtle Marina. Our sail was generally great, but also included a few excellent squalls, including one as we approached the marina entrance, causing us to just sit and wait it out in teeming rain and squally winds. But we were soon safely tied up and spraying ourselves for protection from th no-see-ems... an excellent supply here, available for export! Its an excellent marina that is just a few yeas old and still trying to build a client base. We highly recommend it. Here's h web site: http://turtlecaymarina.com/marina.html
From here, taxi to Panama City then home to Charlottetown and Vancouver, Christmas and church then skiing with family. Back aboard in early January!
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12/03/2011, The Hot Tub
The reef off The Hot Tub
We found our way into Green Island, mostly in spite of our charts. We are a bit like the man with three watches... a man with one watch knows what time it is... a man with three is never sure. We have three electronic charting systems (there are really no paper charts for the area except our cruising guide). Two of the electronic charts are, I think, based on the same information. The third is an electronic version of the definitive cruising guide to the area by Eric Bauhaus. His charts are said to be the best, and they have been converted from his paper back guide into electronic format.
So we have been giving his information more weight. But last night working our way into Green Island, we had some tense moments as the sun was no help picking out the reefs (as it usually is) and depths were significantly less than they ought to have been. This morning, we decided that the other charts were more accurate in that area.
So go the challenges of navigation in the San Blas. There is not a single navigation aid in the entire area. As a result, broken hulls are far from uncommon, yachts and commercial vessels alike. Challenging navigation!
But enough of that... we left Green Island (with good light that showed us the way out and confirmed our concerns with the Bauhaus charts) and motored back to the Holandase Cays. We decided to try The Hot Tub, as the Swimming Pool had more (8) boats. The entrance is described as narrow but deep. In the bright sunlight we easily found our way in (going from 100' to 20' in two boat lengths) and anchored in a huge sheltered anchorage alone!
Dinghy launched, we motored out through cuts in the coral to the edge of the reef where we watched waves towering above us come crashing down on the reef, reduced to quiet wavelets that we splashed in. Back in, we beached the dinghy on an un-named cay and wandered the beaches, cooling down in the late afternoon with a swim. Dinner was roast turkey breast. Not sure what we were thinking when we bought it, but it was time to eat it, so with roasted beets and potatoes and a $17,000 (Columbian) bottle of Chardonnay, a nice evening in the cockpit.
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