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The Voyage of S/V Estelle
Cruising the Western Caribbean in our Bristol 41.1
Cruising the Abacos III
Jim Lea
04/18/2007, Off Green Turtle Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

Yesterday (Tuesday) the wind began to abate, dropping down to 15-20 knots in the morning, so we cast off from Man-O-War after four nights. It is an interesting and nice community, but we have been there longer than we wanted, so were glad to get a chance to move on. Our destination, Hope Town, lay about 5 miles south east. That's what the Abacos are like; destinations are only separated by a few miles. Hope Town, like Man-O-War has a very small, almost totally protected harbour that is full of moorings, leaving no place to anchor, so without a reservation (the VHF was alive with people trying, without success, to book a mooring) we thought we would arrive early and just trust to luck. But we weren't alone. There were three boats heading in ahead of us, so we weren't the only ones with that idea. But there were also a number of boats coming out, so we were hopeful. In fact the Tartan 30 that was behind us at Man-O-War, Selene, had left about a half hour before us heading for there (on a friend's mooring) and radioed us that there were some moorings empty, so we carried on. But we found that most of the empty moorings belonged to a charter company who needed them for returning boats. But we found one owned by "Lucky Strike" and picked it up and were safely moored by about 10:00 am. We quickly dinghied ashore to stretch our legs after too much time aboard during the recent winds. Each community in the Bahamas seems to have its own very distinct personality. Man-O-War is primarily a community that is focused on boatbuilding, and makes few concessions to tourism with the winter residents making little impression on the visitor. Hope Town is the opposite, with rental properties dominating the center of the tiny town. The main business seems to be related to either the sale or rental of these properties. And unlike Man-O-War, it is not dry, so there are a couple of bar/restaurants. But here the only mode of transportation is the golf cart, and even these are banned from the center of town, the streets are so small. In fact, some could not even fit a golf cart, and are really just small sidewalks. On the back side of the cay, a long pink sandy beach runs for miles. And in the west winds, the wind was offshore so it was very calm. For lunch, we went into one of the three restaurants on the cay, Captain Jack's. Jeannie had a conch burger and I had a grouper burger. Both were excellent. Then in the afternoon, we repeated our tour, this time remembering to take the camera. And we added long walk on the beach, then back to the boat for dinner, the remains of the Spaghetti Bolognese (with a nice Chianti). After dinner we took one more tour, making three complete tours of Hope Town in the day. This morning (Wednesday) the forecast stil looks good for next week, so we began working our way north. But not before shopping for a few more supplies. We are never sure when we will see a store again, so try to keep reasonably well stocked. We shopped at both the grocery stores, and then headed back to the boat. I then took the garbage ashore, and returning, saw a boat with Halifax on the stern. I went over to chat (Lyme) and sure enough he was from Halifax. We chatted for a while and, as I was leaving, he asked my name. When I replied, he said that we had been in the Physics program at Dal together. His name was (and still is, for that matter) Steve Grant. He was in the Engineering-Physics program and I was in the combined math-physics program at the same time, so we took a lot of classes together. So we had a great chat catching up on people I have not heard of in over 30 years! Small world. This is the second really close co-incidence. Down in the Jumento Cays, one of the most remote parts of the Bahamas, we met a couple from Shediac, Jeannie's home town, and they knew Jeannie's brother, Fraser. So its always fun to bump in to people like that. After my lym with Steve Grant, we dropped the mooring, filled up with fuel and set off for Great Guana Cay, about 10 miles away. The breeze had sprung up from the south-west, so we had a nice sail up. But by the time we reached it, the breeze was a good 20 knots, and Great Guana is completely open from that direction. There ar a few moorings, but the only ones with any protection were taked, so we decided to push on to Green Turtle Cay, another 10 miles away. This involves going out one cut and in another, but with the offshore wind, that was not a problem. But the problem was at Green Turtle Cay itself. There are two protected harbours, Black Sound and White Sound, both of which are entered through very narrow channels. And we are experiencing new moon tides these days, meaning the highs are very high and the lows are very low. And low tide is late afternoon, just when we were arriving. We didn't think there would be enough water for us to get into either harbour, and we were right. When we arrived, there were about a dozen boats anchored outside each entrance (they are about 1/2 mile apart), and a sail boat aground in each entrance. So we decided that rather than wait for the tide and to see the boats re-floated, we would just cross the sound (about 2 miles) and anchor off the shore in the lee of the land. A nice quiet anchorage for the night. Then we will head in on the morning tide tomorrow.

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Cruising the Abacos III
Jim Lea
04/16/2007, Man-O-War Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

Well, our front came through with a vengeance last night about 3:00 am. Although I didn't sit in the cockpit and watch it, a boat just down from us recorded a 64 knot gust of wind. That's a lot of wind, enough to make me start to get nervous about the strength of the mooring. Our boat weighs about 28,000 lbs, and although there were no waves (the harbour is too small), the wind certainly made for some lively action. Then the heavens opened up and for about 5 minutes, nothing was visible (my chainplate leak held!). Then the winds promptly swung from the south-east to the north-east, and settled down to a nice 30 knots. With the close mooring spacing, I was worried that we might fall back on a Tartan 38 that was now downwind of us, but we kept clear, although not by much! and this morning when we got up, the temperature had plunged to the low 70's, so with the wind, it was cool enough for me to put on the Espar heater for a few minutes, but it was mainly just to exercise it. Boat stuff runs better if it is used, rather than let sit idle for long periods. With the winds still blowing 30 knots we were not going anywhere, so I made banana raisin pancakes for breakfast. Then Jeannie did some cooking, then I did a few jobs. The generator was within a couple of hours of needing an oil change, so I did that. Then I fixed a problem in the aft head (no details on that job!). For lunch we had a salad and some cold chicken (roast chicken last night) with some rolls from a local bakery (her sticky buns were unbelievable. Then we went ashore for a walk, posted a few letters, bought a battery for the alarm clock (I don't know why, as we have been without it since last fall and haven't missed it), then went on a long walk on the Queen's Highway (a dusty golf cart path) to the north end of the cay. We saw some really nice winter homes, and in places it reminded me of a tropical version of old Keppoch on PEI. Then back in town (about the size of Murray River) we got some propane, bought a few post cards and paid for another (our last, we hope) night on the mooring ($17/night). Then we wandered around to look at some of the other boats. When I was up in the night, I heard someone's jib flogging. It was on a boat that had been left alone while the owner went back to the US. Today the jib is in ruins. Then back to the boat, supper, and a quieter night (we hope!)

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Cruising the Abacos II
Jim Lea
04/15/2007, Man-O-War Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

.This is the second time I have done this entry. The first one disappeared into thin air, never to be seen again! Oh, well, I have time. It's Sunday, and we are on a mooring in Man-O-War Cay riding out the latest front. Apparently not too many people would feel sorry for us, though. The weather system has dumped 1' of snow on Washington DC and parts north, and speaking with my brother Bill, there is still lots of snow in PEI, so I guess we're not so badly off after all. On Friday, we left Cormorant Cay which, for Jeannie was none to soon. It was full of no-see-ems, tiny flies that can inflict a painful bite. They don't seem to like me, because I get very few bites, and the ones I do get don't bother me. But Jeannie's swell up and itch for days. So I have orders not to anchor anywhere near a potential site for them in future. On Friday, when we left Cormorant Cay, we were heading for Hope Town, but we didn't get there. It is a tiny harbour, with a couple of Marinas and the harbour filled with moorings (for rent, of course), but when we called, there were none available. That was probably due to a combination of the fact that they were running a regatta (which we watched as we went by) and that the weather for the weekend is bad, so people were starting to hunker down. So we diverted to nearby (most things are nearby in the Abacos) Man-O-War Cay. It has another tiny harbour with one marina and moorings throughout (for rent), so, like Hope Town, has no room to anchor. We ran through the very narrow entrance and motored past a 38' Island Packet that had mis-read the posts (apparently) marking the channel, and run hard up on a ledge. It was low tide when we came in, so he was clearly there for the day. Late in the afternoon he was gone, but he didn't come in to the harbour. (I wouldn't have either, if it were me! We picked up a mooring off the marina, went ashore to pay for it, and walked around the town. It reminds us of Spanish Wells. It was settled, like Spanish Wells, by United Empire Loyalists, and their descendants still constitute the majority of the year-round population of about 200. There are about 200 winter-time residents too. It is also prosperous, like Spanish Wells, although not due to fishing, but boat-building. There is a boatyard that builds a variety of very nice looking fiberglass boats that can be seen throughout the Bahamas. And, like Spanish Wells, it is a Dry Island! The streets are the narrowest we have seen yet, so the golf cart is the standard mode of transportation. In fact, some "streets" (all paved in concrete) are so narrow, that we had to step off onto the grass to let a cart pass. There are a few 1/4 ton trucks, but we have not seen a single car. So we spent Friday night here, planning to go to Hope Town on Saturday. But when we called (we had our name on a waiting list, second in line), we were told that there was no chance. So with the major front coming through on Sunday (today), we decided to stay put too. We spent Saturday just tidying up (I fixed a chainplate leak we discovered during a squall last week) and wandering around (spending money). There is also an old sail loft from the days of sail that has been converted into a shop making canvas products (bags, etc) that are very attractive, so now we have another bag to add to our collection. That plus a bit more exploring, a few groceries, a few post cards, and we pretty much wrapped up the day. In the evening, we watched a charter catamaran come in and try to pick up a mooring next to us. But there was no pennant (rope) on the buoy, so they made a few attempts, first dropping the boat hook overboard, which someone retrieved by swimming for it, then they got it hooked on the buoy, and left it there when they drifted away. So I got in the dinghy and went over and attached a line to the buoy for them. Last night the wind rose all night, and by dawn we had a steady 25 knots. By mid-afternoon it was a steady 30 knots, and another charter cat came in and did another mooring dance, this time down the harbour from us (thank goodness). But this mooring did have a pennant on it, which, after a few failed attempts to pick it up, they got nicely tangled in one of their props! Someone promptly jumped over and cut the line. They probably didn't think that one through, because now they were drifting down the harbour with only one engine, and in 30 knots in a crowded anchorage, you can't maneuver a 40' cat well enough. So they ran around the boat with fenders, bounced off a few boats and came to rest (luckily) on an empty dock in front of the grocery store. I hope they have the sense to stay there and don't see the empty mooring next to us! I looked over a few minutes ago and their jib came un-furled, and was flogging nicely, but they must have noticed, and got it in. Such are our amusements! But I also can think back to some pretty entertaining maneuvers that we have gone through when picking up a mooring or entering or exiting a marina, so I should remember; There but for the grace of God... In one marina, which shall remain nameless, we wiped out a power pedestal on leaving... in another, we couldn't get the boat to back out without swinging wildly to port... until we noticed the line we had forgotten to untie. This front is forecast to come through late this afternoon, and the squalls along it are just starting. Tomorrow it is supposed to calm down in the afternoon, and hopefully we can get out of here (nice as it is, we have seen enough of Man-O-War Cay) and head north to few smaller cays with some nice snorkeling.

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04/15/2007 | Straitshooter
Jim, Yes we still have snow here, but rain is coming.
Have you had any contact with Skye lately. Their last post was March 8? Guess they are having too much fun. Straitshooter
04/16/2007 | Jim Lea
Yes, we had an email from them yesterday. They have left the Bahamas and are in South Carolina, heading for Norfolk where they will be leaving the boat for a while.
Cruising the Abacos
Jim Lea
04/13/2007, Cormorant Cay, Abacos, Bahamas

Today is Friday the 13th. On Monday, we left, with about 15 other boats, from Royal Island for Little Harbour, the southernmost cut into the Abacos. The Abacos consist of one large island, Abacos Island, and a large number of off-lying cays on the eastern side, with the Sea of Abacos between. The "Sea" is, at its deepest, about 15', and mostly well under 10', with lots of areas where we would easily run aground. So in spite of its relatively small and protected nature, navigation is still important. Our crossing was quiet, with only enough wind to keep us going, so we motor-sailed for the first part of the trip. No mahi-mahi, although another boat hooked one only to lose it as they were bringing it on deck. Pulling in to Little Harbour, we just anchored off the cay for the night in the company with the other boats that had crossed. But the weather forecast called for strong squalls Tuesday night and Wednesday, so we decided to head for Marsh Harbour and pulled in to the Conch Inn Marina. We decided to go into a marina, our first (except when we left the boat for skiing) since December. It allowed us to go ashore easily for re-stocking (which is getting more like US grocery stores to get ashore for walks and to use internet (which didn't work very well). Also with the forecast for 50 knot squalls (which came true) we decided against anchoring in the very crowded anchorage. While we are confident about our anchoring, we are less so about others, and just one boat dragging during a squall at night could easily degenerate into chaos. So the marina won out. It turns out that with only a few minor problems, everyone survived in the anchorage. But we had a nice (but windy) day (Wednesday) in Marsh Harbour, and took the bikes ashore for a ride. Then yesterday (Thursday), we had a major decision to make. There is a 36 hour weather window for heading back to the US, and no potential window next week. So to go or stay... We decided to stay. We decided to stay for a few reasons. One is that 36 hours is just enough with little to spare. We average 6 knots so in 36 hours we should be able to cover 216 nautical miles (6*36=3D216), and the distance from here is about 195 miles. There is a strong cold front moving eastward across the southern US that will arrive over Port Canaveral (our destination) late Saturday bringing with it strong north-west winds (our course would be north-west) that defines the end of the window. So we would be sailing towards, not away from, the bad weather and any increase in the front movement would be very un-helpful. Plus, to leave today (Friday) would mean we would see nothing of the Abacos. And starting a voyage on a Friday is bad luck, not to speak of it being Friday the 13th! So we decided to stay, and sailed back down to a Pelican Cay Sea Park and did some snorkeling on some very nice coral reefs. Then we anchored for the night off a small cay where we had fresh grouper in a Creole sauce for dinner with rice & beans and cole slaw (the previous night we had cracked conch, a favorite of ours). Today (Friday) we will head back north, and spend the day and night at Hope Town, a small harbour on Elbow Cay. And from there, we will work our way north to the top of the chain to be ready to head across in the next weather window, not expected until late next week at the earliest.

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Happy Easter!
Jim Lea
04/08/2007, Royal Island, Bahamas

Easter Sunday dawned with a beautiful day. A cloudless sky covered us with a light north-east breeze, making it a perfect morning for breakfast in the cockpit. We bought some fresh local fruit yesterday on Harbour Island and had it for breakfast with yogurt and granola, both healthy and tasty! We were on a mooring at the east end of the harbour, just off where the fast ferry docks, so we watched it come in from Nassau then pull out to Harbour Island. Not as big a crowd as yesterday, but still full. Last night we had a take-away dinner of grouper, cracked conch, cole slaw and potato salad. It was from a home just a few feet away from our mooring, so I just dinghied over to pick it up. It made a perfect end to a great day. Then this morning, we went to church at the local Methodist church. Yesterday I mentioned that Spanish Wells has some unique characteristics. One I forgot to mention is that its inhabitants are just about 100% white. Apparently, according to our cruising guide, they are the descendants of United Empire Loyalists who left the United States after the American Revolution. They established here and have really prospered. Although their accent is a bit different from most Bahamians, it is still a bit unusual to hear the Bahamian lilt coming out of a white mouth. And it was the same in church, with the preacher's accent. The music was a mix of traditional hymns and modern music with a definite Bahamian twist. The organ was accompanied by a piano and drums, and none of the musicians were shy! After church, we were offered a drive back to the marina where we had left our dinghy, and we dinghied back to the mooring and had lunch from last night's leftovers. It was just as good re-heated. Then we went for a short walk, came back and dropped the mooring to head back to Royal Island. We came back to Royal Island, as it gives us a head start of about an hour and a half for tomorrow's crossing to the Abacos. We will leave (assuming the weather forecast holds) about 7 am and be there in late afternoon. Because of the distance, we will want to kep our speed up above 6 knots. So if the wind lightens, we will have to motor-sail. If the forecast holds for 15 knots out of the east-south-east, we should have a beautiful sail on a beam reach. But they are forecast to die later in the day, so we may have to motor the last few miles. We'll just see! Tonight we will have pork loin on the BBQ with salad from local gardens (so much more flavour!). I forgot to mention last night's coconut cream pie... Excellent!!! Tonight Bill and I are going to try to make contact via short wave radio. We only managed once before, but radio conditions seem to be better, so hopefully we'll have success tonight!

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04/08/2007 | Ron White
Got over 15 cm snow here last night and winds over 90km, quite a storm. We are keeping track of you and enjoying all of your postings. Keep them coming.
Straitshooter
04/11/2007 | Susan Muir
Was in your neck of the woods last week at Paradise Island on Nassau and golfed on the same course where Daniel Craig filmed Casino Royale. There are some crazy big pleasure boats down there! The weather's not much better in Toronto than in PEI, still getting the odd snow shower and most jealous of your new lifestyle! Had Easter with Sally in Montreal and she had Albert over to dinner - all is well there. Cheers! Sue
And on north
Jim Lea
04/07/2007, Spanish Wells, Bahamas

Some time ago I wrote about Bahamas weather, and noted that it seemed easier to predict than ours at home. Forecasts out as far as five days held true! Well, forget I ever said that. On Thursday, we woke up in Governor's Harbour to listen, as usual, to Chris Parker's weather forecast, and heard him tell us, and everyone listening, that there had been a major change in the forecast overnight. Since leaving Long Island, we had been running up the western coast of, first, Cat Island, then Eleuthera, a total distance of about 120 miles. With the normal winds from the eastern direction, running up the western shore means that you are running up the protected lee side of the island, giving pleasant sailing in most wind conditions. But the converse it true too! There is only one harbour that offers any protection from western winds, Rock Sound, in southern Eleuthera. So when Chris told us that the wind was going to swing to the west and blow, we knew it was time to make a run for it! So we left Governor's Harbour at 7:30 am on Thursday and headed up to Royal Island, about 60 miles away. And the wind did clock into the west, coming up about mid-morning to about 15-18 knots, so we actually had a nice sail up. But , and there's always a "but", at the top of Eleuthera, to get to Royal Island, you have to pass through a particularly tricky cut called simply, "Current Cut". Looking at the tide tables, which are only a guess for anywhere but Nassau, we thought we could time our arrival for just about slack high water. We missed it by an hour or so, and were whisked through going 4 knots through the water, but propelled up to 9 knots by a 5 knot ebbing current. But there was only one tricky section that we managed without incident. From there it was a nice sail across the last 9 miles to Royal Island. Royal Island has a very well protected anchorage where we dropped anchor in mid-afternoon. We were disappointed to have to leave Governor's Harbour and Eleuthera so quickly, as there were other areas we were hoping to see. But we did have a nice walk ashore the evening before we left. As we travel north, we can see a distinct trend in the economy. Each community is increasingly better off than the its southerly neighbor. And Governor's Harbour was no exception. Coupled with that, the bougainvillia shrubs are all in full bloom, and are everywhere draping their bright colours over walls and onto the streets and walks. And the nicer homes, all gaily painted just add to the beauty of the place. Royal Island is different. In the Bahamas, it is quite common to see either an old abandoned estate or development, or a new one under construction, but Royal Island has both. The crumbling ruins of what must have been a very beautiful summer estate when it was built in the 1930's stands next to the huge clearing where a new resort and marina is under construction. The island is only about 3 miles long and 1/2 mile wide, but has a perfectly formed harbour in the center with a small opening for boats to get in to. So by the time we return, I expect that we will be faced with not the remote quiet anchorage we had this year, but a bust resort that may or may not tolerate cruisers. But that's progress, I guess... Near Royal Island are two major (by Bahamain standards) communities, Spanish Wells and Harbour Island. Spanish Wells is only 5 miles from Royal Island, and Harbour Island is just 10 miles further on. Because we wanted to see both, and are looking at a weather window to cross to the Abacos on Monday, we ran down to Spanish Wells yesterday (Good Friday). It is a small and busy harbour with a large fishing fleet, and no room to anchor, so we rented a mooring for two nights. We left Royal Island in early afternoon, after the squalls and rain passed through, and motored the short distance down. Picking up our mooring, we then headed ashore and walked around the Island. There are a few things that strike you immediately on going ashore. Once again we have seen an increase in the standard of living, but this time it is a quantum leap! Spanish Wells fishing fleet consists of million dollar ships that supply the Red Lobster chain with its Caribbean lobster. And the fishermen have homes to match their boats. It is a very nice, but an unusual town. Last year someone opened a liquor store, but a bylaw shut it down. No liquor is sold on the island. Today we were walking down the road past the store, and saw the door ajar, so went in. "Hello!" we called... no answer. We repeated it a few times as we walked through the store, checking out the cold beer inventory, and all the details. No one appeared. We called a few more times, but after 10 minutes, no one showed up, so we left. I shut the door behind us. Today (Saturday) we caught the high speed ferry over to Harbour Island. Harbour Island is just the opposite to Spanish Wells. Very touristy, and very upper end. Mega yachts and fancy resorts, intermingled with some very nice summer homes, both old and new. Fun for a day, but that's it. Check it out on the internet (it may be under Dunsmore Town). Try Pink Sands Hotel. We didn't take our boat over because the route is referred to as "The Devil's Backbone" and with good reason. We were on a high speed catamaran ferry, and watching it weave between the reefs which constitute the backbone was impressive. At times we were less than 100' off the shore, running at 25 knots in a full sized ferry. Most cruisers who do go take on a pilot. But we chose to just do a day trip. It was great fun, but I think we did it right, as we were ready to leave just as the ferry was ready to go. This town, Spanish Wells, is a working town, and we actually enjoy it more than the very touristy Harbour Island. Tomorrow we will go back up to Royal Island and plan to cross to the Abacos, the most northerly group of Bahamas islands, on Wednesday. We plan to spend only a few days there waiting for a weather window to head back to the US, probably arriving at Port Canaveral, Fla. Its about 140 miles, or a long overnighter.

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And on north
Jim Lea
04/04/2007, Governor's Harbour, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Rounding Cape Eluthera (on Monday) we headed into a very narrow channel with the wind dead ahead, so we furled the sails and motored the last few miles into Rock Sound where we anchored next to True Love, with Frank and Eve from Montreal aboard. So we had a good chat on the VHF. They are also on the same general path as we are, but were heading out for Governor's Harbour in the morning, so I expect we will continue to run into them as we work our way north. Arriving late in the day, we just took a short walk ashore then back on the boat for mahi mahi, rice & beans and cole slaw! Excellent. Then yesterday (Tuesday) we just toured around the village of Rock Sound. The look of the buildings says that we are getting into more prosperous territory, and we expect that trend to continue as we head north. But the village is very pretty and retains some of the appearances of its colonial past. I took lots of pictures which, of course I can't post until I get a good internet connection. In the afternoon, about 8 more cruisers, including Trumpeter, came in. It is an excellent harbour and on the route north from both Long Island and points south-east, but also from the Exumas, where most cruisers seem to spend the winter. Today (Wednesday) we are moving on again, but just a short hop up to Governor's Harbour, a distance of only about 20 miles. At one time, it was the capital of the Bahamas (when the pirates were still in control of New Providence Island, where the current-day capital is located). We will probably stay just one night, as we are starting to look at the weather forecast for crossing from the northern part of Eleuthera to the Abacos as soon as possible, and it is starting to look like early next week may be a good weather window. The crossing is about 60 miles of open water, so will take just one long day. But the weather is still not typical settled spring weather, so we want to be there and not miss a window.

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Off to Eluthera!
Jim Lea
04/02/2007, Exuma Sound, Bahamas

Well, the trip up to Orange Creek on Saturday was not a quiet sail. Although the winds were light when we set out, and forecast to stay light, we had two reefs in both the main and jib quite quickly, and shot up the coast of Cat Island averaging 7 knots. Another great sail. When we anchored it was apparent that the anchorage wasn't as protected as we expected it to be. But we put out lots of scope (anchor chain) and I went out with the dive bucket (a glass bottomed bucket that you can look through) and checked that the anchor was well set. We dinghied ashore, to find the store (reported to be Cat Island's best) closed, as was the laundromat, but both scheduled to open in the morning. So we went for a stroll up the road, and quickly saw all of Orange Creek's sights. We guess that there are about 25 to 30 people living there. And guess who comes from there??? Sidney Poitier!! But he wasn't home. Back aboard, we were able to BBQ for the first time in weeks, in the lighter winds. So we had steak with baked potatoes and, to add some Bahamian flavor, plaintains. But although the wind was down, there was a swell coming in to the anchorage that made for a rolly night. In the morning (Palm Sunday) we went ashore and found the store and laundromat open, so re-stocked our supply of fresh veggies and did a laundry. Then we went for a walk across a beach that was 2.5 miles of white sand with not a house or person on it. By late afternoon it was obvious that the swell wasn't going down, so we hoisted anchor and headed down to another tiny community (they are called settlements) called Bennet's Harbour. There we ran into Trumpeter, a Bristol 45.5 who we met in Thompson Bay. They are on roughly the same schedule as we are, but a few days behind, so we will probably keep bumping in to them all the way up to Maine where they keep their boat for the summer .But Bennets Harbour, although not entirely swell-free, was a lot better than Orange Creek, so we had a better night. For dinner, curried shrimp with basmati rice and more plantains, with another nice chardonnay. Today (Monday) we are off to Eleuthera, a sail of about 55 miles, so we left eatly (7:30 am). Just a few miles out is Little San Salvadore, or as it is now known, Half Moon Cay. It has been bought by Holland-American Cruise Lines, and they heve converted it into a stop for their ships. They have built a whole bunch of stuff ashore, and have sea-doos and stuff for the passengers to use. But there is only one anchorage, and they will let cruisers anchor, but not land if a cruise ship is in. So, as there was a ship in, we just sailed by, taking a couple of pictures. The anchorage would be exposed to the swell, anyway, so might not have been too comfortable. Passing Little San Salvadore (it seems every cay in this area was called San Salvadore at one time or another) we are now heading up to Rock Sound on Eleuthera. Eleuthera is a long island stretching about 100 miles in a north-westerly direction. We will spend a few days travelling up the western shore then into Spanish Wells at the top where we plan to spend a few days. Then a 60 mile jump across to the Abacos Islands. For dinner tonight, very fresh Mahi-Mahi! I caught one just of the southern tip of Eleuthera so we will have it grilled tonight with rice& beans and plantains.

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