Mile Zero
14 July 2013 | Portsmouth Va
Sunny, wind E@5-10, Temp 88
Alligator River Squall Approaching
As usual, we underestimated how long it would take us to get here.
From Calabash Creek, we went out the Little River Inlet and had a beautiful sail across Long Bay where we entered the Cape Fear River. It felt great to sail in ideal conditions, beam reach in 12-15 knots of wind. At the Cape Feaqr River we needed the engine to boost us through the three knot outgoing current. In the river, we ducked down the ICW 2 miles to the South Harbor Village Marina, new to us but very nice and extremely inexpensive. Tied up by mid-afternoon, we had time for a nice walk. But not close to the town of Southport, we just wandered the immediate area. Next morning we caught the incoming tide to boost us up the Cape Fear River and through Snows Cut to Wrightsville Beach. Here we anchored in the town anchorage area that is usually crowded with snow-birds in spring and fall. But tonight there were just three other cruisers anchored. Ashore, we went for a walk, bought some supplies and people-watchhed. It seems to be a sort of surfing center, but the waves were too small for the surfers, so they just stood around in bathing suits and bikinies. Entertaining.
The following morning we ran out the Masonborough Inlet, an easy exit in slack current and light winds. In fact, the winds were too light and we motorsailed most of the 88 miles to Beaufort where we arrived late in the day. After touring the empty anchorages, we decided to take a berth at the Town Docks and relaxed after a long day. Our one attempt at anchoring was not a happy one. The spot we chose was near, but not close to a 40' catamaran. In five feet of water we let out 50' of chain when the cat owner spied us and ran onto his foredeck waving us away and shouting. He had 150' of chain out and was convinced he would swing into us. Rather than argue, and tired after a long day, we just headed for the marina and enjoyed ourselves.
Next day we had a short motor to the Neuse River where we enjoyed a beautiful day sailing down the Neuse until we furled the sails and motored through the Hobucken Canal, bringing us out into the Pamlico Sound. Here we swung north and entered a new anchorage to us, the Bond Creek. In the brisk winds, the water was flat and we enjoyed a beautiful night. All day we met two other sailboats and two motor boats. Very quiet.
On Thursdau (July 11th), we sailed across the Pamlico and up the Pungo River. The weather has been unsettled with heavy rain showers and the rumble of thunder in the distance. By days end we had passed through the 23 mile Pungo/Alligator Canal, a very boring section, and anchored in the very un-scenic Alligator River anchorage. Again we were passed by two motor boats, one with whom we shared the anchorage. In the evening we were finally caught by a thunder squall, and bounced around under 30 knot gusts for about 20 minutes, after which the skies cleared for a beautiful evening.
Friday was a long day of light sailing, down the Alligator River, across the Albemarle Sound and up the Pasquotank River. By late afternoon we had passed through the Elizabeth City Bridge into the upper reaches of the river and anchored in the beauty and quiet of the river.
Saturday we had a motor up the balance of the river and into the Great Dismal Swamp. Locking up at South Lock, we were joined by Elisse II, a small trawler from Chicago completing the Great Loop. The first cruisers we have spoken to on the trip! We had another beautiful day cruising the 22 mile canal. Like the Waccamaw, we have been through it before but never in summer. So we really appreciated the lush foilage. But we have noticed the changes... gone are the Live Oaks and Cyprus and Spanish Moss, and we are now beginning to see maples and White Oaks. By days end we tied up to the (free) Elizabeth Docks at Deep Creek. Ashore for the first time in days, we did a grocery shop to re-stock for our up-coming passages and a good walk.
Today, a short day to Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth from where we plan to leave tomorrow for somewhere on the New Jersey coast, then an overnight hop to Block Island. Weather looks light but good. And we have met another cruiser! It seems to us very strange, but there seems to be little local summer cruising here.
Next stop, New England!