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The Voyage of S/V Estelle
Cruising from Maritime Canada to Florida in our Bristol 41.1
A boring tour of New Jersey
Jim Lea
10/02/2007, Cape May, N.J.

Yesterday (Monday), we left Horseshoe Cove at Sandy Hook and headed down the coast. As we headed out, we met up with 4 other boats heading out, three of which were also Canadian, all from Toronto. But only two were traveling together, and their chatting on the VHF was pretty well non-stop, so it kept us amused. The wind, forecast to be east 10-15, was south-east, so it meant we were close-hauled most of the day. With swells of 4'-5' it was not the most comfortable day, but we were able to make reasonable time, although we had to motor-sail for a good part of the day. Our destination was Barnegat Light, a small harbor with a man-made inlet where we spent a night last spring. These man-made inlets are not fun. They have very strong currents and breakwaters that are usually not visible at high tide. Last spring our entry and exit were both uneventful in slack water and little wind. But yesterday as we entered, it was not so smooth. With the tide running out at 4 knots and the wind blowing straight in, the standing waves were steep and very close together. So at 2 knots headway, we took quite a shaking as we worked our way in. But except for one wave that came over the stern into the cockpit, it was fine. Inside, we anchored in a nice cozy corner of the harbor and settled in. Since it was 5:30 pm, we didn't launch the dinghy, but just began supper... grilled pork chops with mango chutney, sweet potatoes and rapini, and fruit and cheese for dessert. We were well entertained as two of the other Canadian boats were chattering on the VHF as they had their first experience with an inlet. And during the day, they were very surprised by the 4' swells,"Its not like Lake Ontario!". But they made it in safely and anchored not too far from us. This morning we at least had the outgoing current with us, but with the onshore wind still blowing, it was even more rough in the exit. Bur we were through without incident and heard the others on the VHF as they left, so they made it through safely. Then we settled down to another boring day of watching mile after mile of beach and beach houses slowly slip past. The only diversion was to watch Atlantic City pass, with its wild skyline, and watching a catamaran that left Barnegat with us as they continually changed sails, jib up, jib down, spinnaker up, spinnaker down. Of course, we did much the same... wind up, engine off, jib out, wind down, furl the jib, engine on again. But I did get a chance to read for a few hours, something I haven't done for a while. And by early evening, we were able to coast into Cape May and anchor in the limited anchorage space and plan tomorrow's last leg of the boring trip from New York to Chesapeake Bay. But in Cape May, we anchored in the very poor mooring field (off a Coast Guard training base) in company with 8 other boats, four Canadian, and settled down to Butter Chicken with Basmati rice with, as usual, a nice cold Chardonnay. Tomorrow its up the Delaware River to the C&D canal, then into the upper reaches of the Chesapeake, where we will spend two weeks cruising its many remote anchorages and pretty villages. That will put the New Jersey coast where it belongs, in the far reaches of our minds.

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New York
Jim Lea
09/30/2007, Horseshoe Cove, Sandy Hook, N.J.

Well, its been just about a week since I last posted a report. That is because we have been busy, but not with stuff that is all that exciting to write about. When I last wrote, (Tuesday) we were leaving Oyster Bay for the Worlds Fair Marina, where Jeannie could catch a 5 minute cab ride to La Guardia for her flight to Ottawa. So we set out from Oyster Bay, and as we approached the head of Long Island Sound, we began to re-consider. I would be left with nothing nearby except a 10 lane highway on one side and La Guardia's runway on the other. So we decided to head into Manhassett Bay, another beautiful stop, where we picked up a mooring at the very elegant Port Washington Yacht Club. The Launch driver, when we were signing in apologized and said that if we wanted showers, we would have to go up to the change rooms at the tennis courts as the pool and its change room, closer to the dock, was closed except on weekends. We said it was OK. Ashore, our prime need was something for dinner, as the refrigerator was just about bare. And we found a great Mediterranean market. The club's very elegant dining room was closed on Monday and Tuesday, so that was out. Then we arranged a taxi for Jeannie for the morning, headed back to the boat (with a ride in the club launch) and settled in for a dinner of Greek Lamb stew, spanokpeta (sp???) and tabouli. I don't remember dessert! Wednesday morning, Jeannie headed out and I settled into my project list, ignoring my least favorite job to the last... the dreaded Oil Change! Actually its not changing the oil, but the oil filter which requires totally emptying the starboard cockpit locker to get access to the oil filter, then leaning across the engine, stretched prone in the locker, and trying to catch the oil that runs out of the filter. But I managed to put that off until Thursday afternoon, and spent Wednesday installing a new VHF radio (very snazzy DSC model) and, my latest navigation gadget, an AIS receiver. AIS stands for "Automated Information System", and is a system that is now required on all commercial shipping. It broadcasts a signal giving the ship's name, location, speed, course, and a whole bunch of other information. With the receiver, I feed the info into the laptop, and our navigation system plots the ships on our electronic charts. It will be most useful when we are offshore and particularly at night, as the computer will calculate our point of closest approach, and if I want to contact the ship on VHF, I will not only have the ships name, but also its MMSI number, so can use the DSC feature on the new VHF... WOW, what technology... Then I replaced the cockpit speakers, making an excellent mess with fine dust as I had to grind out the existing openings. And finally, I traced out a problem with the anchor wash-down pump, locating the trouble in the pressure sensor that should shut the pump off when it is up to pressure. But it had failed open, so that the pump wouldn't come on at all. So I by-passed it, and will replace it when I can locate a replacement. On Thursday, I managed to avoid the oil change for the morning by going ashore for some groceries, and a trip to the local West Marine store. But then I couldn't avoid it, and all went well, and I managed it without spilling any... an unusual accomplishment for me!The only casulty was the usual bruises on my ribs where I lie across the engine. Not the best design feature on the boat! So the boat was back in order by 5:00 pm, and I sat down to await Jeannie's return. Then the trouble started. Jeannie was supposed to land at La Guardia at 6:30 pm, so I called her to check, and when she answered, I expected she would be in a cab, but she was still in Ottawa! Her flight finally left Ottawa at 8:30, landing at 10:30, and she spent another 90 minutes getting back to the boat with a cab driver who had no idea where he was going. I called every 10 minutes to give them new directions. So by the time she re-appeared on the dock, the Club's dining room was long in darkness, so our planned dinner was changed into a late night on-board snack, then to bed. Next day (Friday), I ran across to a marina to pick up some fuel filters I had ordered. Overnight delivery! I was down to one spare, and when I changed the oil, I changed the fuel filters, and noticed the primary was more dirty than usual, so I will have to watch it! We dropped the mooring about 10:00 am and filled the water tanks at the Club dock, then headed out into the East River. It separates Manhattan Island from Long Island, so isn't really a river at all, but has strong tidal currents that require timing. We were a bit late, and the tide had begun to run (with us, thankfully) so by the time we hit Hell Gate, we were going 10 knots, six with the motor and four from the current. Because the UN General Assembly was sitting, we were diverted (like last year) into the eastern channel at Roosevelt Island, where there is a lift bridge that we have to wait for. But with the current running, I decided to call ahead, and it was great, we didn't have to slow down (or test to see if we could!). There were 3 other boats with us, so we shot down the river into the harbor with its congested traffic of tugs pushing fuel barges, tankers, freighters, water taxis, ferries, and of course, the Coast Guard, speeding first up the river then back down again 10 minutes later. All the traffic left the harbor very choppy, and with the tide now running down the Hudson River at 2 knots against us, it was suddenly very slow going making our way up to the 79th Street Boat Basin, where we picked up a mooring. We counted 12 other Canadian boats in the marina. Then we called my cousin, Laurie, and arranged to meet for dinner. So for the evening we went to a restaurant (I forget the name) at 79th and Amsterdam Ave. I had the best monkfish I have ever tasted, and all three of us battled over one dessert which was also exceptional. It was great to see Laurie, and we made plans for her to come to PEI next summer! Saturday morning we took our bikes ashore and biked 6 miles down to the southern tip of Manhattan on a great bike and walking path, and toured the financial district, walked Wall Street, looked at the Twin Towers site that is full of construction equipment, and had lunch in Greenwich Village. Then we biked back to the boat and went grocery shopping at Zabars, a great store just 2 blocks from the boat basin. With the griceries put away, we went for another bike ride, north from the boat basin and then went back to change for dinner. We went to another great restaurant on Amsterdam Ave, and came back to the boat exhausted from our day. We were sorry to miss Jeannie's cousin, Beth Galvin, who lives just minutes from the boat basin, but she was out of town for a wedding. And in 3 weeks, she will be away for another wedding... her own! And after, she will be moving to Seattle, so won't be here to visit next year! Too bad, but we wish her all the best. Finally... today (Sunday) we dropped the mooring and ran down the harbor with the last of the outgoing tide, heading for Sandy Hook, N. J. eing Sunday, the harbor was less busy than normal, but there was still lots of traffic to watch. And the AIS was great, as it was on Friday when we came down the East River. Anchoring in Horseshoe Cove off the Sandy Hook park, we walked up to the now National Historic Site of Fort Adams and looked at some old missiles on display. There was never a missile launching site here, but it was a missile tracking station of some sort. And we also took a picture fo the oldest continuously operating lighthouse in the US. Then back aboard for me to finally write all this up. Tomorrow we head down the coast. Not sure how far we will get. We'll see...

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10/03/2007 | Fran
Really enjoying your blog. Sounds so great we might even join you some time this winter! Thanksgiving is almost here - hope Sarah will join us this year. The fall weather is beautiful. Sweater season has arrived! Be careful!....F
Back to Long Island
Jim Lea
09/24/2007, Oyster Bay, NY

The sail across to Port Jefferson was beautiful, with a 12 knot north-west breeze carrying us across the sound on a beam reach, until just a couple of miles off our destination, when it backed into the west, requiring us to harden up then take two tacks into the harbor, chased in by the ferry P. T. Barnham, named after the famous circus master who had a permanent circus here years ago. He is the one who coined the expression "There's a sucker born every minute.", I think. We looked for space to anchor close to the town, but the anchorage has been taken over by moorings, so we went off into a side creek and anchored for the night. This morning (Monday) we launched the dinghy and went into town to have a look. Since it was early on a Monday morning, the only things open were a bakery and a bank. So we stopped at both, then strolled through the downtown area. It was much like many of the other towns, lots of restaurants, craft and antique shops, all closed, so we bought some gas for the dinghy and headed back to the boat. Hoisting the main at anchor(in the 5 knots of wind) we raised anchor, waited for yet another ferry to pass through the narrow entrance to the harbor, and headed out motor-sailing down to our next stop. In the light winds, we motor-sailed down the north shore of Long Island. In this beautiful late summer (or, more correctly, early autumn) day, we passed about a dozen boats going up and down the sound. A far cry from a busy summer day, when it is filled with a good percentage of the 200,000 boats (the Coast Guard's estimate) anchored along the sound. By noon, the wind had filled in so that we could shut down the motor and sailed down past Eatons Neck, where we stayed last year, and headed into Oyster Bay, where our intended destination, The Sand Hole, lay. On our approach, the buildings of New York began to appear, and as we headed in, we could make out the Empire State Building from a distance of more than 20 miles! The Sand Hole is a nice protected anchorage just at the mouth of Oyster Bay. Our cruising guide gave very precise instructions on entering, as it is very narrow and twisting. Having read it carefully, and considering we were entering at low tide on a full moon tide (extra low) we were a bit concerned. But when we got close, and I looked at the entrance, handing the binoculars over to Jeannie, I knew plans had just been altered. I said nothing, but just gave her the binoculars and listened for the "Oh my!!!" There in the entrance lay a boat we had been anchored with in Port Jefferson, hard over on its side, so that the skipper was walking around it! The TowboatUS boat was just leaving (for obvious reasons) and we knew that there was nothing we could do, so we sailed past and located a nice anchorage in Oyster Bay. Ashore we saw lots of stuff extolling Teddy Roosevelt, who had a summer home here (open to the public in season) and the rest... restaurants, antique shops and art galleries. Back on board, we settled in for the night and just as we were finishing dinner (shrimp in a spicy cream sauce with basmati rice), the stranded boat (Pilgrim) came in and anchored beside us. We will go over and chat with them tomorrow. Then, off to Flushing Meadow's Worlds Fair Marina for a few days. Jeannie will head for Ottawa overnight, and my list of jobs will more than keep me occupied in her absence.

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09/25/2007 | mary
Hi Jim and Jeannie -
sounds like you are making great progress and eating as well as last year. Jeannie said you are planning for a week in NYC and forgot to tell you before you left that the New Yorker festival is Oct 5-7 (full program on their website) in case that is the same time!
Look forward to reading about your adventures - off to a great Fall here.
09/28/2007 | Alison & Kerry
Hi guys!
Well I think Fall is officially is wet and rainy....lots of leaves starting to fall to the ground. Everthing in the neighborhood is good. Parker must be happy...I don't see too much of him! Thanks for the post card!
Off to Connecticut
Jim Lea
09/23/2007, Branford, Conn

On Friday we rose to another beautiful early fall day with a light breeze that had, unanticipated by the weather forecasters, swung back to the east. Actually, I was wakened again by the anchor alarm when the wind came up about 6 am, so I just watched the day start in the quiet of Coecles Harbor. After breakfast, we dropped our mooring and motored out into Gardner Bay and across the five miles to Three Mile Harbor. I have no idea why it is called Three Mile Harbor, but Gardeners Bay takes its name from Gardeners Island, outside Shelter Island in the tail of Long Island. It is reported to be the oldest continuously owned piece of property in the US, purchased by David Gardner in 1650 from the indians for a blanket, some trinkets, a bottle of rum and a dog. And it is still owned by the family, who are reported to guard it jealously, so that landing is strictly prohibited. There is a story that David Rockefeller tried to land, and when met by the caretaker, was told "I don't care if your name is Astorbilt, you'll have to leave"! Anyway, we decided not to land and sailed on to Three Mile Harbor and motored in its two mile entrance channel past marinas and mansions. In its totally protected harbor, we anchored and dinghied ashore with the bikes, and biked into East Hampton. That was a disappointment, as we were biking on a very busy road, and in East Hampton, found nothing of interest. But on the way back we found a very nice fruit and vegetable stand where we bought some nice supplies. Then we spent the afternoon exploring the harbor, about the size of Charlottetown's, and then back aboard for dinner. We had a great, but not low-fat dinner of Chicken in cream and pesto... not for those concerned about cholesterol! Our plan was for an early start for Branford, where my cousin Anne Miller and her husband Dave live, so we set the alarm for six am. And at six, I looked out and could see exactly nothing! The fog was so thick, that I couldn't see a mooring ball that I knew was 30' off our bow. So we had breakfast, hoping for it to clear. But it didn't, so at 7 am, already one hour late, we set out with Jeannie watching the chart plotter (to tell us where we were) and the radar (to tell us who else was out there with us). And it took us an hour to feel our way out of Three Mile Harbor. Then we were able to make time across Gardeners Bay to Plum Gut, where we were trying to beat the change of tide, arriving about 9 am. All the tidal waters of Long Island Sound have to pass through a relatively small body of water at the east end of Long Island, passing through either The Race or Plum Gut. And because of this, the currents can be terrific! So we had hoped to make it to Plum Gut at slack tide, about 8:00 am. So arriving at 9 am, we had to push our way through a 3 knot opposing current. ANd in th flat calm, we just pushed on through, although very slowly. But once through, the opposing current slowed (but never did disappear) and we enjoyed a nice sail up the sound to Branford. At Branford, we had a reservation at the Brian and Johnson Marina, with about 1200 slips, and charging $3.00/ft, the most we have ever paid! But we arrived in mid-afternoon, did a much-needed laundry, and then met cousin Anne and Dave, who tool us to dinner at the Pine Orchard Club. Lots of fun, and a great dinner. Then we were back aboard for a nice quiet night at the dock, the first time since we left Maine. Tomorrow we plan to meet Nicola Peddle (who spent a summer with us in Charlottetown over 20 tears ago) and her family, then off to Port Jefferson.

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The Circumnavigation of Shelter Island
Jim Lea
09/21/2007, Coecles Harbor, NY

Give this mark a wide berth!
On Wednesday, we left Coecles Harbor about 11 am, after exploring the harbor by dinghy. We went up to the only marina in the area, filled the dinghy with gas (it uses a lot more than our old 6 hp) and then set out for Sag Harbor, about 5 miles away. In the light winds, still from the east, we just motored around Mashomack Point on the southern head of Shelter Island, and across to Sag Harbor. In the light winds, we anchored outside the breakwater, as the tiny harbor was full of moorings with no room for anchoring, and there were no spare moorings. Anchor well set, we took the dinghy in to the dinghy dock at the Sag Harbor Yacht Club, and wandered through the town, which is really just a village. With the warm sun and hint of fall, we just took our time strolling main street, stopping for ice cream, then posting a few cards, and the standard shopping stop. By mid-afternoon it was time to leave for our anchorage for the night. Back aboard, we raised the anchor and headed up the Shelter Island Channel to West Neck Harbor, about half way round Shelter Island. As we looked at the chart for details for entering, we realized how narrow the entry was. But it was deep, about 20' under our keel as we brushed by the sandbar on our port side. The green (portside) mark is firmly planted in the sand, about 20' from the water's edge. Inside, we found three other boats anchored, with room for at least 50, so we easily settled in to our spot for the night. Safely anchored, we dinghied to the nearby beach for a walk, then settled in for the night. Again the evening was warm until sunset, when it cooled quickly. For dinner, we had grilled tuna (from Block Island) with a spicy peach salsa, sweet potatoes and fresh green beans. The beans were excellent, but not close to the ones Dave Ashby gave us this summer from his garden! Thursday morning I was woken at six am by the anchor alarm. Getting up to check (it goes off if the boat moves more than 0.02 miles, or 100') I saw that the wind had finally swung (as forecast) into the west. And with it, the temperature on the last day of summer rose so that for the first morning, we didn't need the Espar! Breakfast in the cockpit (fruit with yogurt and granola, toast, coffee) we again wandered the beach, and then off on the next leg of our circumnavigation. This time our stop was Derring Harbor, a small village on the north end of the island. Shelter Island (about 5 miles each way) is tucked between the north and south necks of the tail of Long Island. So there is a ferry link from Greenport on north neck to Derring, and from the south shore to Sag Harbor. So we passed between the three ferries running constantly on their 10 minute runs between Greenport and Derring, turned into the tiny harbor, and called the Shelter Island Yacht Club for a mooring for our short visit. Ashore we looked at their fleet of 12 Etchells, reminding us of the fun we had racing in our fleet at CYC. Then we headed in to the village, taking some pictures of the elegant gingerbread homes, then buying a few supplies, including some excellent Morbier cheese. Then after wandering the village, headed back to the boat, and off on our final leg of the circumnavigation. Hoisting the main on the mooring, we motored out of Derring Harbor, and pulled out the jib to complete our circumnavigation by sailing the last 8 miles back to Coecles Harbor. Back in Coecles Harbor, we picked up a mooring from the Rams Head Inn, an old, elegant inn on the shore. They put out 12 moorings for the free use of anyone coming in for dinner, as we planned to do. For dinner we started with a warm goat cheese tart, and for a main course, I had duck, and Jeannie had ravioli with crab and lobster in a mushroom sauce. Both were excellent! and for dessert, a compote of local berries and fruit. And for wine, we sampled some local Long Island wines. There were only six other tables occupied, and we recognized boaters at two others. Back aboard, we settled in for a quiet warm night for the last night of summer. Today we'll head over to Three Mile Harbor and explore it to complete our cruise of the tail of Long Island. Then tomorrow, across to Branford Conn to visit Anne and Dave Miller.

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The Tail of Long Island
Jim Lea
09/18/2007, Coecles Harbor, NY

This morning, we rose to another fresh wind out of the north-east, so with our westerly course, we headed out without going ashore again. In the cool mornings, we're glad to have the espar to warm up the boat. But once underway with a 15-20 knot breeze behind us and bright sunshine, we were very comfortable in the cockpit. Since the wind had been blowing the same direction for 3 days, a swell of 5', unusual for these waters, was rolling down from Buzzards Bay. Our course to Long Island was about 30 miles, and averaging six plus knots, we were entering Gardiners Bay in early afternoon. When we left Block Island, two other boats left at the same time, and headed in our direction. When we approached Long Island, the wind began to die, so that as we pulled in to Coecles (pronounced Cockles)Harbor, the wind had dropped to just about nothing. Launching the dinghy, we took a tour of the harbor. It is not what would be called snug, but is very well protected. In the designated anchorage, three other sail boats were already anchored, so we just dropped the anchor in a clear spot. The anchorage has room for over 100 boats, so lots of room. Ashore we walked up to the Rams Head Inn, checked out the dining room, and decided to come back here for dinner before we leave (the dining room was not open tonight). Back to the boat and we had tuna BBQ'd for dinner. Excellent! Coecles Harbor is in Shelter Island. It is located in the tail of Long Island, so-called because of its fish-tail shape. There are a lot of interesting anchorages and towns here, all within a few miles of each other, so we'll spend a few days circumnavigating Shelter Island before heading in to Long Island Soud on the weekend. Tomorrow we'll check out Sag Harbor and West Neck Harbor, a distance of 5 miles away from here! This end of Long Island is just a few miles from the Hamptons, home of the rich and famous, so we expect to find everything expensive. Our guide book says moorings run $75/night. For that price, we'll anchor!

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A tour of Block Island
Jim Lea
09/17/2007, Block Island, RI

This is our third time in Block Island, but the first time we have really looked around. We went to the boat show in Newport on Saturday morning, a cool damp morning, and enjoyed it. We went aboard a Passport 46, a Hylas 48 (they were just about identical below) and a Sabre 42. They were nice, but expensive. We stopped to chat with Jock Williams, owner of the yard in Maine where we keep Estelle in off-season. He had given us complimentary tickets, which was nice. Then we went over to the Morris Yachts booth. Morris make very high-end boats on Mount Desert Island. We know one of the brokers so went mainly to say hello. They only had a big (38') day-sailer. A number of the builders are now building what are really week-enders, beautiful lines, large cockpits and little room below. The first was built by a company called Alerion, and seems to be the sailing equivalent of the Hinckley picnic boats. We didn't go aboard, as we have no interest in it, but instead, I asked James (the broker) about a Morris 42, probably my dream boat. He assured me they could have one for launch next spring, ready to sail away for only $750,000. I said I'd have to think about it. With that, we retreated into the tents where equipment suppliers have displays. There I had some good conversations with suppliers of some of our equipment, learning a few great maintenance tips, etc. From the boat show, we walked uptown to a grocery store, and did a major shop. Calling a taxi, we headed back to the yacht club and out to the boat for the evening. We had planned to go ashore to the club, but the wind had sprung up out of the north-west, which is open in Newport, so we would have been soaked, so we stayed put on a cool evening and had a roast chicken with the standard vegetables. Sunday morning, the wind was still fresh out of the north-west, so we dropped the mooring, did a quick harbor tour, then set out on a broad reach for Block Island, about 28 miles south of us. And the wind held until just a couple of miles off Great Salt Pond, the totally enclosed anchorage. So we motored in, and took advantage of the light winds to fill up with fuel and water, then crossed the pond to a spot to anchor, out of the moorings. With the dinghy in the water, we ran ashore for a short walk, then back aboard for supper of Salmon in dill and maple syrup with stir-fry vegs. Next morning (Monday) we took the bikes ashore and biked about 8 miles up to Sandy Point, the north-west tip of the island. In the strong north-east winds it was a cool day, but with the surprisingly steep hills, we kept warm. Back in town, we had lunch (a fish burger and a lobster burger) at a small take-out. Then we did a loop around the southern end of the island. Then back to the boat to pick up some material Jeannie needed for a telephone conference call. Back to town, she found a quiet phone both in one of the historic hotels on the island. There are about six of them, all on the national historic register. Block Island has done a great job preserving its atmosphere. But from the number of restaurants, bars and bike rentals (literally thousands of bikes for rent), it must be a busy place in season. Back aboard, we settled down to a nice but cold evening. No dinner in the cockpit tonight; down below we had the espar to keep us warm, and I took brief runs out on deck to BBQ the steak. We had a really nice red Zinfandel, not a wine I have had before, and it was delicious. Tomorrow, the tail of Long Island. Hopefully the north-east winds will hold for one more day, then fade and let it warm up some!

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The Yachting Center of the World
Jim Lea
09/15/2007, Newport, RI

Or at least according to Newport... We left Cuttyhunk fairly early yesterday (Friday), because we weren't sure about a mooring at Newport, but just after we got underway, we called the Ida Lewis Yacht Club, and they had one for us. So we settled down to a beautiful sail of about 25 miles. The wind was a perfect 10-12 knots from the south-east with a sunny sky, giving us a nice beam reach. And it was a pleasure not to have to dodge lobster pots like Maine waters. By sunset, Cuttyhunk had about 40 boats, but by the time we left, the number still there was down to less than 20. Most of them were headed for Newport, but others seemed headed for Block Island, while some headed north-east, up Buzzards Bay, and through Woods Hole toward Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. We visited that area last year, so will skip them this time, as there are lots of places we have yet to see in the area. Arriving in Newport, we picked up our mooring after a wander trough the mooring field for a while. There are well over 1000 boats moored here. The Ida Lewis Yacht Club, which hosts some very impressive ocean races, is really quite ordinary. Beside it is the Newport base of the New York Yacht Club, a little more fancy, housed in a huge French chateau style clubhouse! After checking in at the club, we went for a walk to look at some of the summer homes for which Newport is famous. And they are really impressive! Summer homes for such famous names as Vanderbilt. JP Morgan, Astors, etc. are truly unbelievable! I took lots of pictures and will post them as soon as I get a chance. The largest are facing on the water, and a walk has been built that lets you get a good view of them, although some have built hedges obscuring the view. Back at the boat, we had a supper of leftovers. Today we will go to the boat show, and grocery shopping. We tried to go shopping in Plymouth, but after waiting for over an hour foe a taxi (and repeated calls to both cabs) we gave up. So we are just about out of everything. And today is typical boat show weather... rain. Last year we went to this one and Annapolis, both of them in the pouring rain! Then tomorrow, off to Block Island.

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