05/06/2008, Alligator River, North Carolina
The picture is of the Elizabeth II, a replica of the ship that brought the settlers to the Lost Colony to Manteo in the 16th century. I have no idea why it was in Ocracoke.
Last Saturday, we hoisted anchor in Cedar Creek and motored out into the Neuse River. In the freshening breeze, we shut down the engine and hoisted the sails and set off downriver. Our objective was Ocracoke, a pretty town on the Outer Banks. We had visited it before, and enjoyed it, so decided to head back. To reach it we merely sailed out the Neuse into Pamlico Sound and across the sound to the banks where we motored in the narrow 3.5 mile channel. For the morning, the wind was light and we just ghosted along, putting off the time when we would have to start the engine. And a good thing, because in the afternoon the breeze picked up to 15-20, so we romped across the sound on a broad reach and arrived in late afternoon off the entrance. The Pamlico is a wide and very shallow body of water, so it can kick up quite a short steep chop in those conditions. But on a broad reach, they didn't bother us, so we carried on. Ocracoke's harbour is called Silver Lake. It was at one time a lake but the opening was widened and the whole thing dredged for a small naval base in the war, so it is now a completely enclosed harbor about a quarter mile in diameter. We were surprised to find about 8 boats anchored, and at that size, there isn't room for many more, but we found a spot and dropped the anchor. As it was now evening, we just settled in for the night. On Sunday we took the bikes ashore and biked through the small town. The permanent population is about 600 and in summer it swells to ten times that. There are few buildings that are not either shops or B&B's. In the evening we headed in to The Back Porch, a great small restaurant, and had a great meal. Monday dawned with some menacing clouds hanging just offshore, and checking the weather on the VHF confirmed that there were some severe thunderstorms in the area. Given the dark clouds, we waited them out in the boat and sure enough, the heavens opened up. The lightening never got too close, so there were no concerns. But two boats that had left the anchorage earlier in the morning came scuttling back in just as the storm broke! After the skies cleared, we headed back in for some shopping and another bike ride. The showers continued on and off for the afternoon, but between the rain showers, we got all of our jobs done without getting soaked! Our plan for today was to continue north on the Pamlico to Manteo and then back in Albemarle Sound, but the weather put an end to that plan. This morning's forecast was for 15-20 northerlies, and as we headed out, that was what met us. With Manteo 60 miles north of us, we had a change of plans and sailed back across Pamlico Sound and into the Pungo River where we picked up the Pungo-Alligator Canal, a 20 mile section of the ICW that will take us to the Albemarle tomorrow. We wish we had more time to spend here in North Carolina as we are just scratching the surface of the cruising here. But we want to spend some time in Chesapeake Bay before heading on to New England, so we will leave North Carolina for another time.
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05/02/2008, Cedar Creek, North Carolina
Today dawned clear and calm with the sun warming the cockpit quickly, so we had breakfast in it looking at the dunes surrounding us at Cape Lookout. Our cruising guide said that there was a museum at the lighthouse, so we took the dinghy and headed over to investigate. Since it was early may, we didn't expect it to be open yet, but we were in for a surprise! Not only was there a museum, but a large interpretive center, all bustling with activity. There were two school tours with the students crowding the center. So we went for a walk over to the beach where we saw people camping among the dunes, and people beach fishing. We watched one man land a 24" fish. As he was landing it, I asked him what it was. But with his southern drawl, the cigar in his mouth and the surf noise, I couldn't make it out. But whatever it was, he didn't want it and threw it back in disgust. We wandered over to the lighthouse, then into the museum where a volunteer quickly took us on a guided tour. I was wrong yesterday when I said that it was painted in diamond shape in error. He laughed and said that that was a common misconception, and that, in addition to the diamonds providing a unique identifier, the black ones faced north-south and the white ones, east-west! And the height (this is the second lighthouse, the first was only 56' and too short) at 161' is sufficient to be seen from the end of the shoals, 11 miles away. In other words, the signal was "If you can see this light, you're too damned close!". Leaving the lighthouse, we dinghied back across the anchorage and landed just near Estelle. We walked across to the ocean side and saw more fishermen, with their trucks on the beach. That's allowed here, even in a national park. And we saw an incredible array of shells on the beach. Back aboard, we had lunch, a fish sandwich with the last of our wahoo. After lunch we hoisted the sails at anchor, then sailed out and back to the Beaufort entrance, about six miles. In the freshening wind and incoming tide, we raced in the harbor at over 8 knots! But with some slower boats ahead of us and heading for a narrow bridge and channel, we decided to pull the sails down and motor on through. So we headed up the Harlowe Canal (part of the ICW) and into Cedar Creek, which we shared with jus two other boats. In the fall we stayed here, and there were about 20 boats anchored here.
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05/01/2008, Cape Lookout, North Carolina
Yesterday when we pulled into the anchorage at Wrightsville we were surprised to see only three other cruising boats (you learn to identify them) anchored. So we had no problem in finding a good spot to anchor as the anchorage can easily hold 40 boats. we then took the dinghy down to Motts Seafood, an excellent seafood store we discovered last year. They even have a dinghy dock to accommodate cruisers. And again the woman serving us identified us as "boat people". We bought some local fresh shrimp, sea bass (from Chile) and tuna. For dinner we had the shrimp, with a recipe we put together from a few, and based on what we had at hand. But it was basically Shrimp and Grits. I'll post it sometime soon. But by sundown the number of boats in the anchorage had swelled to about 15, a few of whom we knew. We made an early evening of it, planning an early day. So this morning we were up at 5:45 am (unbelievable!!!) and saw lights on other boats. By the time we were off, we were the fifth of nine boats heading out the cut into the ocean. In flat water, we paraded up the shore, all heading for the same general area. By 9 am, the wind had come up and sails began to appear, but it was too light for sailing, so we motor-sailed. By noon the breeze had finally filled in, with 10-15 knots from the south-east, a perfect beam reach, so we had a beautiful afternoon of it. Approaching Beaufort, we separated from the rest of the fleet (which had become quite straggled) and were the only boat to head into Cape Lookout. Arriving off the entrance, we dropped sails and motored into the fully protected basin. It is a huge fully enclosed basin that could easily accommodate 500 boats, but we found only one other anchored ahead of us. So needless to say, we had no trouble finding a spot. The only negative is the depth, 25' right up to the shore, a bit deep for anchoring. But with lots of chain out, we had no concerns. The basin is made from surrounding sand dunes, and the only structure is the Cape Lookout lighthouse, painted in its distinctive diamond pattern. All the lighthouses along the coast have a distinctive pattern making them easier to identify. But when they were originally constructed, the diamond pattern was supposed to go on the light at Diamond Shoals, but the contractor got confused and put it on the wrong one. And its remained that way ever since! Dinner was sea bass in a spicy ginger-sesame oil marinade with a stir fry of zucchini and tomatoes, and Carolina rice! Dinner was in the cockpit under the warmth of the setting sun. But as soon as the sun disappeared, we felt the cool of the evening and went below for dessert of fruit and cheese, and the last of our wine. Sleep came early after a long day.
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04/30/2008, Bald Head Island, North Carolina
After two nights here stretched into four, we finally ran out of excuses to stay, and cast off at noon, in time to catch the tide starting to run up the Cape Fear River. Our route goes about 12 miles up the river before going through an artificial cut, Snows Cut, into the ICW running behind the barrier islands. As usual, we enjoyed Bald Head Island with its miles of beaches, and great roads and trails for biking. Since cars are not allowed on the island, bikes and golf carts are the normal mode of transportation, so its quite a relaxed pace. And there are a number of hiking trails through the marshes that we walked. Yesterday, the big excitement on the island was the arrival of the USS North Carolina, a new nuclear submarine, heading up to Wilmington for commissioning. Most of the island residents, including us, were on the beach to watch it go by. It is an ominous sight to see the sleek black hull gliding silently by! One odd thing happened; when in the Bahamas, we would stock up for a week at a time, since the stores got supplied by boat once a week, and most fresh things disappeared in a day. So buying for a week was the norm. But here on Bald Head Island, where there is a nice grocery store just a short bike ride from the marina, we seemed to find a reason to go to the store every day, even today before we left! But by noon today, we had finally run out of excuses and reluctantly cast off. It is a favorite stop and we'll be back. So up the Cape Fear River, through Snows Cut and up to Wrightsville Beach, from where we will leave tomorrow for CApe Lookout, about 75 miles away.
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04/26/2008, Long Bay, South Carolina
After our night in Tom Point Creek, where we slept like the dead, we motored into Charleston to the City Marina where we spent three nights. Project number one was to check in with Customs & Immigration who came down to the boat and cleared us in short order. They asked lots of questions filling in a form, but when it got down to how many bulkheads and how many winches we had, I began to wonder. That got us checked in, but our cruising permit was due to expire the next day, so I asked about it. Different department, but they would contact them, and took our cell phone number. Sure enough, an hour later, I got a call. Can't renew it until the day it expires, tomorrow, as the computer won't let them. So that job was put off for the day. We went on a grocery shopping binge instead! After the limited selection in the Bahamas all winter, we really went to town! The top two items on my list were fresh local shrimp and smoked salmon. So that was dinner that night. The shrimp were done in a spicy coconut sauce. Since Then the next day we got a lift from the marina shuttle and went in search of the cruising permit. Just as we were leaving I got another call saying it was ready for us, so we headed out, and after a few wrong turns, we were legal again! So despite the bureaucracy, things were done very efficiently, and everyone was super polite and nice! That night we went out for a belated celebration of our 35th wedding anniversary, which passed quietly at sea. We went to our favorite restaurant, SNOB which stands for Slightly North of Broad (St.). It was excellent. I had roast duck, their specialty, and Jeannie had sole stuffed with shrimp. Next day we did some more touring and I bought a bunch of clothes. I'm not a very patient shopper, but we found a great men's shop and even I must admit that some of my clothes are past their "best before" date. Even the butcher in the grocery store recognized us as "off a boat"! So now perhaps I'll look a bit more respectable. Then yesterday we headed out early in the morning. We took the ICW to the mouth of the Waccamaw River where we anchored for the night. We took the ICW because the wind outside (on the ocean) was contrary and from the Waccamaw today we will head out and across Long Bay to Bald Head Island, a day run. Otherwise, from Charleston it would be another overnight, and since we'd done all we wanted to in Charleston, we decided to take the day to run up. That section of the ICW is not bad. Its not shoal as much of it can be, and there's only one bridge that has to open. And for the most part it runs through a nature preserve, so is quite interesting. Today's run cuts off the Waccamaw, another nice river, but also the boring ditch that runs through Myrtle Beach. So its a long day, but avoids two days of boring stuff. We'll spend a couple of nights in Bald Head Island then run up to Wrightsville Beach from where we hope to do another offshore hop to Beaufort NC.
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Still can find snow in shady places but it is looking like spring some days. Have a safe trip. Enjoy your postings!
04/21/2008, Tom Point Creek, South Carolina
Last night proved to be another excellent night for sailing in spite of the forecast, so that at midnight, we were 120 miles south of Charleston and ready to begin to peel off out of the Gulf Stream. And until dawn, the wind cooperated with a beam reach at 15-20 knots giving ideal sailing conditions. Midnight to six am is my shift, and I didn't make a single adjustment to either the sails or the helm, but read, watched for traffic and ate. As we edged our way out of the Stream our speed slowly fell from 9-10 knots to a more usual 6-7 so by 0830 hours, we were just 35 miles from the harbor entrance. And that's when Plan A (Charleston) ended. Within 20 minutes the wind strengthened and clocked right into the north, our path, and the seas began to build. Reefs in, we hunkered down for a long day. But by 1000 hrs, it was obvious that we wouldn't make the harbor entrance until late afternoon, and probably not the marina before dark. With the wind still howling, we went to Plan B, Port Royal Sound, and we laid off onto a more comfortable reach and settled down... for 2 hours. Then the wind died, about 30 miles from the Fairway Buoy (the furthest one out) and another 15 miles to the nearest anchorage. Plans C D and E were discussed and tried, and finally we adopted Plan F. By mid-afternoon we were motoring in flat calm seas for the mouth of the North Edisto River and reached it by 1600 hrs. We finally settled on it as it is the nearest one to Charleston and it has a number of anchorages near its mouth. And the ICW runs through it, so tomorrow we'll take the 20 mile run up to Charleston and check in so we're legal! Tonight we'll be eating everything fresh we have left, but that's not too much. Then we can re-stock in Charleston. So our run from the Bahamas was 425 nautical miles exactly, in 55 hours 15 minutes, averaging 7.3 knots!
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04/20/2008, Gulf Stream, off Georgia Coast
Today dawned with us making great time up the coast, and we were 65 miles off Cape Canaveral by noon. The wind, unpredictable as ever, was actually helpful for most of the day, starting the day with a n unforecast fresh south-west breeze, giving us a beautiful broad reach. With the boost from the Stream, we were consistently making between 9 and 10 knots! As we slid down a wave, I actually saw the GPS register 13.5, a record for Estelle! But it was too good to last and in the early afternoon the wind began to clock so that it became a beam reach that required reefing the main and jib. Then it lightened, out came the reefs, it clocked some more, went up and down, reefs in and out, and finally settled in the north-west late in the day. It was great sailing until sundown when it just plain died out, and so on came the engine. At this pace we'll ride the Stream up for another 12 hours then peel off north-west for the last 60 miles into Charleston, arriving late tomorrow afternoon. Our only hitch will be if the wind builds from the north-west too soon. Its forecast to come up, but not until tomorrow, and with only light winds, so we expect to motor-sail through to Charleston Harbour. But we have to have a bail-out plan in case it comes up earlier and stronger. In that case we would find ourselves caught in the Stream in northerlies, a bad plan. So our plan is to hedge our bets and edge over towards the western wall of the Stream. That way, if we need to, we can just head due west into any one of a number of inlets to escape. One of the great safety features we use on passages are SSB nets. They are organized by volunteers who are on the SSB radio at a certain time and frequency, and anyone can call in giving your boat name, location, destination, and any other info you want. So we check into Cruiseheimers at 0830 hrs on 6227 kHz and the Doo-Daa Net at 1700 hrs at 8152 kHz. Its also great to learn of others near you or to contact someone. And we also use the SSB to download weather forecasts a couple of times a day. Other than that, the day is fully occupied by reading, navigating, napping and eating. Last night we roasted a chicken for dinner, and tonight we just finished it off cold. And we're munching our way through all our fruit so that its gone before we arrive in the US as they are very pickey about that kind of stuff. Tomorrow is our 35th anniversary, and if we're not too tired, we'll celebrate in Charleston at SNOB Restaurant (Slightly North of Broad), our favorite in Charleston. If we're too tired, we'll just postpone for a night!
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04/19/2008, Gulf Stream, off Florida East Coast
Last night was the quietest night I can recall in the Bahamas. Not a breath of wind stirred! Our plan was to head to Great Sale Cay today, about 35 miles west of Allans-Pensacola and leave from there Sunday morning to head back across to the US. Our destination is flexible, somewhere between Cape Canaveral, about half way up the Florida coast, and Charleston, a distance of about 400 miles. But this morning, Chris told us that we can expect northerly winds to develop around the Charleston area early Tuesday, and that's not good. That's when we would be arriving, and we would be trying to go straight into them, a not pleasant task. So we quickly decided to head out today directly from Allans-Pensacola Cay and were underway by 8:30 am. This way, if we do try to go all the way, we should arrive late on Monday. But where we will end up is still anybody's guess. The winds are forecast to be quite light, so it means motor-sailing for most of the trip. The question is what the seas will be. If they are still up, it will make a rolly trip, and we may bail out and wait for more wind. But right now, we are running up with the Gulf Stream pushing us north in very comfortable ses. Going 6.5 knots through the water, but 8.2 across the bottom, getting a 1.7 knot boost from the stream. When we are centered in it, we hope to make 9 knots northerly, a great speed for us! ANd its a beautiful warm night with a full moon. Who could ask for more!
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