07/04/2009, Port Clyde, Maine
John and Ev from Changing Lanes at breakfast in the Port Clyde General Store
Well, there hasn't been much improvement in the weather. Yesterday we woke in Portsmouth to see the fog lifted, so we headed out. In light southerlies, we hoped to gey to the mid-coast area, but by evening we were only approaching Casco Bay, so we headed in to Jewell Island.
Just six miles from Portland, this beautiful anchorage is usually crowded, and coming in on a Friday night of the July 4th weekend, I was concerned about finding room to anchor. But not a problem. There were only three other boats there, the crowds being put off by the continuing drizzle and fog. So we anchored and just stayed aboard. Changing Lanes anchored beside us and we chatted across, but nobody was interested in going ashore.
Saturday dawned as usual... light southerlies and dense fog. So we set off again with the radar guiding us through the fog and past the shoals. By noon it began to clear and as we headed in Muscongus Bay, it looked like we might have a nice sail in. But it was not to be. About five miles out of Port Clyde, the Coast Guard came across the VHF with a warning about intense squalls with lightning.
We almost made it in, being chased by black clouds. We saw some lightning and rain, but safely anchored and watched the storm pass to the south.
Clouds chasing us into Port Clyde
Ashore we paid for our mooring at the Port Clyde General Store, a real general store selling everything from Hardware to fine wine. Then we went on a stroll, checked out the restaurant, made reservations for five and headed back for a shower to warm up.
In the evening we went ashore to "The Harpoon" with the crew from Changing Lanes and had a fine meal.
Heading back to the boat at dusk, we were treated to a July 4th fireworks display.
Tomorrow's forecast sounds promising... a fresh westerly wind and no fog! Here's hoping!
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07/02/2009, Portsmouth NH
Wildflower field in Cuttyhunk (photo by Gerard)
REST OF TODAY
E WINDS 10 TO 20 KT WITH A FEW GUSTS UP TO 25 KT.
SEAS 2 TO 4 FT. SHOWERS WITH A CHANCE OF TSTMS. WIDESPREAD DENSE FOG. VSBY VARIABLE TO LESS THAN ONE QUARTER MILE.
TONIGHT
E WINDS 5 TO 15 KT...BECOMING S AFTER MIDNIGHT. SEAS 2 TO
4 FT. SHOWERS LIKELY WITH A CHANCE OF TSTMS IN THE EVENING...THEN A CHANCE OF SHOWERS AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIDESPREAD DENSE FOG. VSBY VARIABLE TO LESS THAN ONE QUARTER MILE
That's the forecast for today and tonight. But the chance of rain part is way off. Its pouring! We arrived here yesterday after deciding we didn't want to spend another day motor-sailing through dense fog. Isles of Shoals are just 8 miles off Portsmouth harbor so we motored in and picked up a mooring from the Portsmouth Yacht Club. We went in for lunch and walked around, finding a very attractive downtown core. Then back to the boat for the evening.
Today when we finally got up, we knew that we were here for another day, and the forecast confirmed it. So when the rain lets up we'll head ashore for lunch and to buy a few things necessary due to our extended cruise.
Hopefully tomorrow we'll be off again. It will probably still be foggy, but with no rain and with a southerly breeze for sailing.
Changing Lanes is still with us. They came in to a local boatyard to have some work done on the engine to find out why it kept dying. The diagnosis was... out of fuel!!! The boat is brand new to them and all boats take getting used to so now they have sorted out the fuel system and found the fuel guage.
So a rainy afternoon in Portsmouth for us. Based on what we have seen, the local flood warnings should be taken seriously!
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06/30/2009, Islas of Shoals
Outdoor restaurant, Cuttyhunk
We left Block Island like we arrived, in the fog. We arrived about noon, in time to head ashore for a walk and lunch. "Changing Lanes" (John Lane and Ev Price from Newfoundland) arrived about an hour later. We had a greasy lunch, deep fried everything... shrimp, fish & chips and clam cakes. Delicious, but stayed with us for a long time. Gerard did some shopping, painful to watch, so I wandered ahead, and then we bought some groceries and back to the boat. Supper was sesame tuna steaks with a wasabi/soy sauce.
In the morning we filled up with fuel and water (it's been a motor-sailing trip) and headed out into the fog. We motored north up the west side of Block Island, about 3 miles, then hoisted the sails and enjoyed the cool north breeze as we sailed through Rhode Island Sound to Cuttyhunk. The fog cleared by noon giving us a nice afternoon sailing. Cuttyhunk is a small island with a few houses, a small store, some nice walking trails and little else. But its a convenient stop and very nice.
"Changing Lanes" picked up a mooring beside us and in the evening we became the first official visitors aboard! Celebrations were appropriate for the occasion.
Monday morning dawned as usual, foggy. We had a late start as we had to wait for the small yacht club (mostly a junior program) to open for more shopping. By 0930 hrs we were off. In calm air and thick fog we motored up Buzzards Bay with one person constantly on the radar watching for targets.
As we approached the Cape Cod Canal, we our speed picked up, being pulled by the tidal current rushing through. By mid-canal (in clear air, as the fog again lifted at noon) we were motoring at 10.7 knots. We hoped to time it so that the video camera would record our passage, but missed it. Out in Cape Cod Bay we hoisted sails and enjoyed a nice afternoon sail across to Provincetown.
In Provincetown we picked up a mooring and headed ashore. Because it was late in the day, we just headed for the grocery store then back to the boat. With a stop at the excellent Portuguese Bakery. The sights in Provincetown are always entertaining.
This morning dawned... you guessed it, foggy. Thank goodness we have a good heater to warm and dry the boat. But the warmth contrasted by the cool dampness outside caused us to be slow in getting underway. And with a long day's run to Isles of Shoals, we needed to get going. So we were off, in company with Changing Lanes again, shortly after 0800. From Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod, we headed north, our course of 65 miles taking us out across Stellwagen Bank, a feeding ground for whales. We have never crossed it without seeing them and today was no exception. However today the fog never completely lifted. It would close in to less than 100 yds visibility then go up to a mile then back down again. So we again kept someone on the radar constantly. At noon, we had lunch of pasteries from Provincetown and the whales arrived. Gerard was excited! The only other excitement was dodging a high speed whale-watching boat bearing down on us. We saw him on radar and altered course, but on he came until he appeared out of the fog and came to a halt to let us pass.
But that was it. The rest of the day was spent in motor-sailing in the thick cold fog, arriving at Isles of Shoals at 1930 hours. Approaching the isles, we were paying very close attention tyo navigation as the entry between the rocks and granite isles is not large. Passing safely between the unseen White Island Ledge and Star Island, we rounded up and dropped the main then wove our way in to the anchorage between Star and Cedar Islands. Picking up a vacant mooring, we settled in for the night. Just 50 yards from the islands, Gerard was convinced we had anchored in the middle of the ocean as there was not a sign of land. But we were comfortable and coached Changing Lanes in until they picked up a mooring beside us. Down below for a hot meal and a night in the cabin!
The weather forecast continues to look poor later in the week, so tomorrow we'll do another long day to get us up to the mid-coast of Maine, where we can slow down.
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