From a distance Rangitoto looks completely forested. Up close, boulders of black, jagged lava rock jut up between the vegetation. Its rough, porous surface makes it hard to believe anything could possibly grow on it. The last big volcanic eruption on Rangitoto occurred some 600 years ago. The ash that that covered the nearby land mass laid the perfect foundation for rich, fertile soil - perfect for agriculture and farming. Today that land mass (Motutapu) is adjoined to Rangitoto by a narrow isthmus. Its meadows and gentle rolling hillsides are a stark contrast to the steep conical shape of the neighbouring volcano. A network of trails allow your to meander for hours and hours through fields of grazing cattle and sheep and you can obtain spectacular views of surrounding Islands and the mainland from the tops of some of the hillsides. A few of the crevasses between Motutapu's hillsides are forested, and one in particular has a noteworthy trail carved through it. Centennial Trail is a sanctuary for native birds.
The day before we explored Motutapu a helicopter flew overhead while we were anchored in the bay. We learned later that this was a very special mission... the Department of Conservation (DOC) was transporting two Kiwi birds from the mainland to their newly constructed homes (burrows) in Centennial Trail. Apparently, the Island would be inundated with 150 government officials and VIPs later that week to celebrate the arrival of 16 more Kiwi birds. A lot of effort and expense is going into the conservation of these cute little national treasures!
We found the new burrows during our hike through the Trail, but haven't seen any live Kiwi birds yet... these elusive, nocturnal creatures are very rare and equally shy. Actually, what we heard as we walked through the trail was almost more impressive than what we saw. The sounds of the forest made it obvious that it was alive with numerous species of birds, but they were well concealed by the vegetation and difficult to spot. The overlapping chirping and squawking and the elaborate singing of songbirds was almost deafening. Its easy to see why Rangitoto and Motutapu are a popular overnight/weekend destination for boaters - so much wildlife and scenery to explore within an hour of Auckland!