After four months in Fiji, we have arrived in a new country. We're comfortably anchored off the Island of Aneityum in Vanuatu. Vanuatu customs has granted us clearance here, thereby saving the trip up to Port Vila (further North) and shortening our trip.

Three days ago we got up early, untied our lines from the Marina in Port Denarau and headed over to Vuda Point Marina to check out of Fiji. We were told the customs agents arrive sometime around 10 in the morning and we wanted to be checked out and on our way shortly thereafter. Just outside of the channel to Vuda Point, we called them on the VHF as per previous instructions and were initially told to wait in the bay as there was already a boat tied to the customs dock. About 30 minutes later we got a call saying we could raft up (tie alongside) the boat at the dock, Luckily it was dead calm and the rafting went smoothly. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the boat we tied to was another Wauquiez (albeit the racing version) with an Australian couple and their kids aboard. They are from Hobart, a south Australian location not for the faint at heart sailor!

Clearing out went smoothly and again we untied our lines, this time for the last time in Fiji - and headed West. Our trip to Vanuatu got off to an auspicious start with headwinds! Luckily these only lasted until we weaved our way through the reef system into open water. With a little help from the diesel engine, we were clear of the dreaded Fiji reefs by two in the afternoon. Then, once clear of the local effects of the islands, the winds did as predicted and clocked around to the Southeast and picked up to 15-20 knots.

The first 36 hours of our trip continued with steady 15-20 knot Southeasterlies with a following sea, although with slightly higher than expected swell of 2-3 meters. Luckily, swell from the aft quarter is usually quite comfortable and we had a good ride, averaging 6-7 knots with a double reefed main and a partially rolled genoa. (For the sake of accuracy, I should note that Kim doesn't remember this quite the same as I do!!)

These weathermen know what they are talking about!. Unfortunately, sometimes all too well! The wind died completely (again as predicted) and we had to set the diesel drifter (the motor) for the remainder of the passage. (When planning passages we always opt for too little wind over too much. That's why we have an engine! ) At times the sea was a sheet of glass with a long easy swell. If you have to motor these are the conditions you want.

What looked like a somewhat tedious third day of the passage was made a whole lot more interesting when our hydraulic autopilot died. I had had the same problem in Mexico. That resulted in buying a new autopilot and becoming intimately familiar with its installation. Luckily I also talked to the manufactures in England and they sent me the failed part from our original autopilot, allowing me to repair it. Old auto was sitting patiently bolted into the transom of the boat, waiting for a second chance to perform.

Changing an autopilot while at sea was not something I had hoped for but glassy seas and no wind certainly helped. The process, in brief, requires unloading both lazarettes to gain access, then unbolting the failed autopilot and installing the new one. Following this you add a little hydraulic fluid, connect a few wires and the hydraulic arm, and all should work just like new! Four hours later, after numerous trips in and out of both lazarettes and what we call the hole (the small space in the stern of the boat between the lazarettes where one should only send misbehaving children), the job was done, all gear was re-stowed, tools were put away and our original autopilot was happily steering us towards Vanuatu. The newer autopilot will require repair and will then become the new first alternate! I should note that a failed autopilot does not put one in dire straits but hand steering for 2 days with only two of us on board was not an appealing proposition. I should further note that during the autopilot replacement Kim hand and then "foot" steered the boat. After four hours she was happy to let 'Auto' take over again! With no further untoward events, we arrived on Aneityum Sunday afternoon, dropped the anchor and raised our Q (Quarantine) flag. We will check in with Tim the policeman tomorrow morning after a good night's sleep!