Ariana Time

Gracioso Bay, Ndende Island, Solomon Islands,
7 November 2010
We dropped anchor at the head of Gracioso Bay at 1750 after clearing Ringdove Pass on Utupua at 0755 that morning. We were guided to this better anchorage in 20 meters mud bottom off a beautiful fresh water stream by Titus. This is much better than the marked anchorage on the coral farther out in the bay. Titus and margaret are very nice hosts. Margaret is the local primary school teacher. The next day we took the long dinghy ride to Lata to round-up the quarantine officer and sign in with the Solomon Police. There is no Customs or Immigration officers in Lata but you can informally enter here and obtain the necessary clearance from Quarantine. Lata is a quiet village with a market, bank (ATM) and police station on the hill. We had to search out the Quarantine officer and bring him back to ARIANA for the necessary paperwork. Inspection was very minimalist. After returning the Quarantine officer to Lata in a blinding squall of heavy rain, the sky cleared. Titus and Margaret invited us to their village and for a swim in the fresh water stream. We tied our dinghy to a branch that hung over the stream. It was plenty deep. The large stream was crystal clear, fed by a huge rock lined spring. The pure fresh water of the stream was a fantastic refreshing temperature. It emptied in to the bay over white sand. Swimming there between the warm salt water currents and the cooler fresh water was a real treat. Titus and margaret later led us up to the spring. The stream wound from there through luscious landscape. Sapphire blue winding through reeds, and foliage of the full range of greens, shaded by tropical trees. There is no better landscaper than nature. Humans spend many dollars and much of their time trying in vain to replicate a setting as beautiful.
There was a swimming hole for women to bath. The men bathed farther up stream. I took a dip. It was irresistible. The water was pure, fresh and the perfect relief from the heat.
Farther downstream, the children, of which there was at least twenty, climbed and jumped from the overhanging limbs of trees that lined the stream. They were constantly playing, an endless mix of laughter and chatter. Constance and Marks boy, Nico was a huge hit among his friends. At 6 he was a very white pied piper leading a crew down the beach.
As we left the delta in our inflatable Margaret had the children lining the shore and the branches overhead sing us a beautiful local song of farewell and safe passage. A memorable moment. Later that afternoon we hauled anchor bound for Marau Sound on Guadalcanal.