Ariana Time

At anchor off Kandui Island in the Mentawi Chain off the
west coast of Sumatra.  Our approximate location is 01.54 S. Lat.;
99.18.45 E. Long.  Some of the best surf in the world rolls onto the
reefs around here.  Big barreling waves.  I am horribly out of practice
and have had some pretty big wipe outs.  Waves detonating on me. Dominic
met us in Padang and has been with us for a couple of weeks.  He has
caught some epic rides deep in the barrel (23 and a much better surfer
than I will ever be). We departed Thailand the third week of November.  We sailed south to
Langkawi, Malaysia for some additional provisioning and to primarily
restock our grog lockers.  Langkawi is a duty free port.  Wine and
spirits are virtually impossible to find in Indonesia.
We sailed from langkawi the last week of November for Sabang, Pulau We
off the north tip of Sumatra.  Crossing the north Strait of Malacca is
not what I consider pleasant, relaxing cruising.  Current, either no wind
or pretty nasty squalls, and pretty significant shipping lanes to cross
usually as a major squall closes in at night.  We had to make this 250
mile trip three times for reasons that we can discuss in more detail over
a beer or three.
We arrived at Sabang in a torrential downpour. We are flying our "Q" flag
as we have not cleared in.   We circle the harbor several times looking
for a suitable place to anchor.  It is a very deep harbor.  Typically
Indonesian.  Somewhat in a state of decrepitude.  Not facilities for
pleasure craft.  The 2004 Boxing Day tsunami hit this region straight on.

We end up anchoring in 20M off a beach that holds a few shacks that house
some local fishermen.  It is protected, with no roll.  Ahh some rest.  It
is still pouring and will continue to do so all night.   Nancy and I go
below to wash up and get some sleep.  Every so often I stick my head out
to take a look around.  I notice some locals sitting under the roof of an
open shed. It is Saturday and pouring.  There is not much activity on
shore.  An hour or so later I see a couple of brown uniforms sitting
alone in the same shed but think nothing of it.
About an two hours later we are cooking our dinner and there is a fishing
boat approaching.  The local boats have a unique design with a very high
bow and a stern that looks as if it was cut off by a giant buzz saw.
This one is painted a bright blue.  The two brown uniforms are
passengers. One rail thin and one somewhat chubby. It is pouring down in
buckets and they are soaking wet.  The heavier of the two flashes a gold
badge and asks permission to come aboard.  They are Coast Guard.  They
board mid-ship dripping wet.  They quickly explain that they had to hire
the fishing boat to come out as the Coast Guard does not have a boat.
This is somewhat unusual for an official, even here, to go to such
lengths for an inspection.  They start with paperwork then the life
jackets, fire extinguishers, flares, electronics and on.  The irony of a
coast guard with out a boat arriving on a handmade open fishing skiff (no
life jackets) inspecting our modern 61' ocean going vessel, was not lost
on us.  Off course all is in order.  They take our paperwork and ask us
to report to the Harbor Master on Monday and as they were leaving ask for
a "souvenir" of a bottle of liquor.  Now we get it.  We give them a
bottle of rum.  They are ecstatic.  The Harbor Master's office opens late
on Monday.  We are told that the staff is sick.  They all wander in late
looking somewhat hungover.
We head south from Sabang.  Once round the north tip of Sumatra pushed by
a 4 knot current we feel the large, big shouldered rolling Indian Ocean
swell.
The west coast of Sumatra is not easy cruising.  We have not seen one
other boat other than local commercial/fishing boats since leaving
Malaysia.  The volatile geological situation here has caused islands and
reefs to lift many feet out of the sea.  Some islands have tilted to the
east some to the west.   Some have just been moved straight up.  This
presents its share of navigational challenges.  The weather is also very
flukey here.  
Most of the natives have been sadly impacted by the earth's instability.
Most have lost family members to the quakes and tsunami.
We continue south from here through the Sunda Strait north of Java.  From
there we head northeast to southeast Sualwesi and then north up its east
coast.  We hope to arrive in Palawan by March.  Many miles ahead of us.
We will start making time as we pick up the northwest monsoon.
All good things to you all in 2013.