part three of trip to Syros

When the boat is out of the water in Syros for the winter, which may realistically be five months - end of October to end of March - we have decided to try and find a little apartment to live in near the boatyard. Now, where do you start? In a foreign country, can't speak the lingo, can't read the newspaper or speak on the telephone. Luckily most Greeks speak some English, so that's a start.
At the abandoned marina, we called in to a chandlers (lacking in customers, sadly) and spoke to another Yiannis. I believe that the eldest son in a Greek family has to be called after the father, so everyone is either called Yiannis, Giorgios, Stavros, Spiros or Vangelis. Very confusing. Anyway, chandler Yiannis phoned up a boatyard owner's son called Spiros - obviously not the first born, as his father was Stavros! Spiros owns a central heating and log burner shop! Not sure he's on to a winner here ... maybe Greeks find it colder than us .... so we went back into town to see Spiros, who seemed pleased to leave his immaculate showroom for five minutes to show us round the boatyard and discuss prices. We also met his lovely wife who could speak perfect English, and we mentioned we were trying to find a winter apartment. Bingo! The Greek grapevine rallied into action and five minutes later we were shown a lovely but small apartment nearby, owned by Giorgios, son of Giorgios. 250 euros a month, free water and electricity, but a bit small, basically one room with a tiny kitchenette in corner, but bright and clean, nice patio. We said we would bear it in mind.

We then went back to our hotel, to speak to Yiannis number 1. We told him we were looking for somewhere to live and as all good Greeks do, he sprang into action, grabbed the local paper and started ringing round. We came back an hour later to meet a lady called Zena who took us to see a flat she had to rent. Bigger than the first one with a separate kitchen, sunny balcony, nearer to town. 250 euros but electricity extra. We said we'd think about it.

Later, we went to see something I found via the internet - a wonderful very large one room apartment bullt on the roof of an old house with an enormous terrace, sea views, new bathroom etc. but too much money, and up 130 steps from town centre. So that was a no. We were due to leave the next morning, what to do? That evening we ate in the town and I purposely sat down next to some people who were speaking English, the first we had heard in Syros. It turned out she was a Scottish lady called Anne and her husband, who lived in Syros during the summer and had a house there. She took our phone number and email and put us in touch with another English couple, who emailed the next morning to tell us they had a house to rent at a beach location, which we sadly had to turn down due to having no transport and too far from the boat.

Finally Yiannis number one came up trumps. He had arranged for us to see another apartment, this time in what looked like an unfinished block, a short distance from the harbour and about five mins walk from boatyard. It wasn't too attractive from the outside, and on the second floor, but inside it was just what we wanted. Almost brand new, although a little scruffy, separate bedroom, air conditioning and heating, nice bathroom, large lounge, balcony, dining area, and kitchen with fridge and washing machine! We'll take it, we said. But it's out of our budget, 300 euros a month plus electricity bill. The old man who showed us round said he would call the company in Athens. 280 was their reply. Sharp intake of breath ...... Should we walk away or make a lower offer? 260 euros for a six month contract we said ...... Waited with bated breath while Yiannis number one acted as persuader and negotiator in Greek, old man tried to get a reply from company in Athens who own the flats ..... Finally they agreed, 260 a month plus electric, for six months. Hooray! We've rented a flat. Paid one months deposit and said we'd see him in October. And Yiannis has even promised to send us an Albanian for 50 euro a day who will decorate, and do anything that needs doing, curtain poles, shelves etc! Bonus! I promised Yiannis we would invite him and his girlfriend to dinner when we move in.

Fingers crossed this all works out, I'm such a pessimist .........