Goats on the boat .....
21 May 2013 | Leros
George, it's scorchio
Kalimera mes amis
We have now visited six greek islands since we set off 12 days ago. We are not trying to beat the world record, it has just happened this way.
After Paros, we spent an enjoyable two nights in Naxos. We hired a car and drove round the island, saw some amazing views and stunning scenery. We drove through mountain villages and saw women weaving colourful items on their ancient looms, and had lunch in a typical greek harbour village of Apollonon on the north coast.
The next stop was the tiny island of Iraklia, some 18 nautical miles south of Naxos. Again, a sleepy village on a sandy beach, with a quay for mooring, near where the ferries come in. There were very few people about in the village, but the number of tavernas and few small hotels suggest a number of tourists do come here. An excellent place for a get-away from-it-all break. If you are feeling energetic, you could walk a couple of miles to some underground caves with stalagmites and tites. We were surprised to be woken one night by the huge Blue Star ferry mooring stern-to, there can't have been many passengers.
After two peaceful days, we left for the passage to Amorgos which took four and a half hours. What a lovely place that was, definitely worth a return trip. We moored on the quay at Katapola, the main town, alongside yachts from Austria, France, Germany, Belgium, Turkey and even one from Australia. Amorgos is famous for its scenic walks and we saw many groups,of ramblers who were preparing to trek to the famous monastery which is built into an overhanging cliff. There is also an old Chora, or hill village to explore, with ancient windmills and winding narrow streets. In the evening we walked around to the other side of the harbour and sat at the appropriately named Moon Bar to watch the sunset with an ouzo in hand.
We have paid very small amounts for mooring fees so far this year - three days in Paros cost us five euros in total, with free electricity and water. Naxos marina was twelve euro a night including elec and water. At Iraklia and Amorgos we paid nothing. The port police in Amorgos obviously kept a check on the boats coming into the harbour and asked the boat alongside is to take their papers to the office, which is common, and charged them ten euros, but they didnt even look at us. We can never fathom out the intricacies of Greek officialdom.......
Our next stop was the amazing island of Levitha, half way between Amorgos and Leros, known to yachtsmen as being a very safe anchorage from very strong winds from any direction. The wind had died away by the time we got there at 5pm. According to the 2009 census, the island is only occupied by one family of three inhabitants. They have a goat farm of 900 goats, and run a small taverna at their farmhouse. They have also put a dozen mooring buoys in the bay for yachtsmen, and charge seven euro a night for the privilege. We took the dinghy ashore and walked the short distance up the hill to the farm taverna. There were goats everywhere! Mostly small ones who presumably escaped the Easter cull,when everyone in Greece roasts goat on the spit. There were about half a dozen tables in the farmhouse courtyard, beautifully decorated with shady awnings, and displayed on the walls were artefacts they had fished from the sea, such as parts of ancient amphorae jugs, and some huge sea shells.
The meal was very simple but delicious. We had a Greek salad with home made feta cheese, fried saganaki (fried cheese) then we chose the goat stew in tomato and garlic sauce, which was extremely tasty. I thought I would be squeamish about eating goat, like I am with bunnies, but it was amazing. It was a good job we took torches, as our walk back was through the unlit stony fields and you could easily get lost and the goats weren't much help.
Have you ever woken to the sound of hundreds of goat bells tinkling at dawn? A terrific start to the day. Lots of small goats came running down the rocks and along the rocky shore before disappearing into the scrubby bushes.
Now we are moored in Lakki harbour, on Leros - island number six, and we are certainly on unknown territory here. We are in the Dodecanese, only about ten miles from Turkey. More news soon .....