Wednesday, July 15 2011

Hello from Newfoundland! This is a wild, barren, devoid place but it is absolutely spectacular! We have had no need for sunblock – our skin and the sun haven’t seen each other for the last few days! We’re going to try to upload some of our pictures to our Picasa account so click on the link to the right of this blog page to view them.

We’re currently tied up to the public wharf here in Burgeo rafted up to ‘IMVUBU’ riding out a 30 kt ’breeze’ out of the east. Quite protected here but a number of other boats in the fleet are anchored in the adjacent cove and having a bit of a time staying anchored. I imagine we’ll hear all about it at the gathering tonight!

Catching up on our travels so far:

After Baddeck we spent a night in Ingonish Harbor. A very picture post card place with a ski slope you can see from the harbor. From there we went into a place called Dingwall which, is about as close to the top of Cape Breton as you can get. We weathered through a strong low pressure system here and the next day ventured across the Cabot Strait to Port au Basque.

Port au Basque, NF had all the basics; food, fuel, water, laundry and a well-stocked chandlery – Land & Sea Outfitters Inc. We walked around ‘downtown’ (both blocks) with the crew from ‘Sweet Dreams’ and then trekked up to the Marine Traffic office for a look-see, some information and to extend our thanks to the folks there for keeping an eye on us as we travel across the Cabot Strait, through the fog and weather.

We motored around a bit in the port of Rose Blanche, while quaint and home of the Friendly Fisherman restaurant (apparently large portions of very fresh fish and shellfish) it’s not configured to keep yachts protected from a Southwester (unless you’re warped at the government dock). So, we sailed several miles east and anchored in ‘The Basin’ above Harbor Le Cou (47 38.109N, 58 40.873W). We anchored on the edge of a 100’ deep pool with a stern line wrapped around a shoreline rock. Just before deluge or rain, we dinghied to the 200’ waterfall that cascades into the pool and then across the bay to the little community located on the western shore at Harboor Le Cou. Picturesque, lovely and very sheltered. If you are desperate for ‘civilization’ a 20-minute walk west will bring you to the nearest liquor store. Since it is going to be foggy, rainy and cool till Friday we’re going to take a short motor-sail to Culotte Cove in Cinq Cerf Bay.

Along the way to Culotte Cove we motored into the ‘pint-sized harbor’ of Grand Bruit. The electricity is still on but there is no one at home! The local ferry service no longer stops at this hamlet and there is no land access to the town so, the forty-four people living in the town were relocated elsewhere. No people, no boats, no cars – just houses with curtains in the windows and a government wharf open to the sea. Culotte Cove (47 42.012N, 58 05.774W) is lovely. There is a spit of sandy beach to anchor the dinghy. The water is the color of well-steeped tea from all the tannins in the soil. We trudged over the sub-arctic terrain with the dogs glad for the opportunity to stretch our legs and photograph the wild iris and colorful ground covers of every shape. Saw evidence of Caribou but not the real thing. After drinks onboard Moonshadow Star with Brian and Sandy, Marina on Sea Bear and Tony and Angela on Tana Vika we settled in ‘securely’ in this snug, well protected cove and slept undisturbed throughout a light blow from the northeast.

Faring departed early with the others heading to Burgeo - the metropolis of the south east coast! Rolf on Invubu offered up rafting space alongside the Public Wharf so we are one deck away from the action. Tomorrow we’ll tour the Maritime Traffic office and have a lobster dinner at the firehouse with the rest of the flotilla. I get to mail my post cards, finally, and do a bit of grocery shopping, laundry and sightseeing.