Jules
06/01/2010, 11 22'N:63 07'W, Los Testigos

Happy 2010 . and what a year it's already turning out to be. Julie arrived in Caracas on the 28th December and was due to get to Margarita the next day. She phoned to say she was at the beach and we went to pick her up, only she wasn't alone. Twent, our good friend and Maryport neighbour for over four years was there as well. To say we were surprised is something of an understatement, I think Twent was too, he'd only made the decision to come the week before.

As you can imagine many, many beers were drunk that day. In celebration Mike made a venison and goat tattie pot for New Year's Eve, only we sort of didn't get round to eating it until the next day.

We invited a couple of fellow cruisers, Paul the magician and Robert the wi-fi guy. Watched the fireworks herald in the new year, went to the beach at 6.30 a.m. to see the sun rise, and didn't get to bed until 8.00. And it was, apparently, a blue moon which only falls on New Year's Eve every 19 years . thanks for the trivia Robert.

The next day was understandably quiet, well except Jose turned up with some friends to jam with Twent, not that Julie and I saw much of that.

Saturday 2nd saw yet another group of people on board. Paola who we'd met in Trinidad came over in the afternoon with a group of her friends. Much merry-making went on yet again with lots of swimming and dancing. Unfortunately though the ending was a little ugly as two of the girls started fighting and hair-pulling when Tony took them back to shore, and Paola wouldn't leave the dinghy. The hot Latin-American temperament was definitely in full show. Oh and Johan, who hardly drinks, hit the rum and ended up spending the night on the bathroom floor.

Sunday Jose brought his cousin Igor, whose father-in-law has been the pilot in Peurto La Cruz for 50 years, to meet us. We visited the whole family who were holidaying in Porlamar and then Jose took us shopping, yet again. Part of the reason for going to see the family was to change money. It would appear that just about everyone here is keen to get US$ and so far we've had a variety of people, including the local guardia, only too happy to help.

We had to stock up on beer for our trip to Los Testigos, having already run foul of the 'no shops' policy last time we were on the islands, oh and tequila and cigarettes. Twent and Julie were completely amazed as we filled up our petrol cans for 1p a litre, and bought beef tenderloin for the equivalent of £5 a kilo.

Monday we were up at 5.30 a.m. and set off back to Testigos. Unfortunately the wind, swell and white-caps were against us which made for a bumpy and sometimes overly slow ride, but the Buzzard was her usual sedate self and got us here just before sunset.

For Julie, especially, the trip so far has been quite surreal. For most of the crossing she sat stunned on the top deck wondering what the hell she was doing here. So much has happened for her over the last year and then here she is, in the middle of no-where, gazing up at the black-velvet star filled sky, Pink Floyd blasting away the silence: "Oh, I Wish You Were Here".

Yesterday started off a little overcast. We visited the fisherman and his family that we'd met on our last visit. Toby disgraced himself by chasing down one of their small goats; he wasn't in to letting go either and had to be quite severely chastised. Then we went snorkelling (only we only have one so we had to take it in turns), and then on to see Benjamin, the King of the Beach.

Luckily he didn't start on the rum and coconut and we were quite happy to sit on the beach and share our cerveza fria, and listen as he tried to play his four string guitar while wearing his Mexican hat. He then took us over to the only 'restaurant' on the islands, La Casa Verde, only they'd run out of beer and didn't have any food. Mike and Twent helped the owner sort out problems with his generator and the next minute we were all invited to join the family for stewed goat and rice, well except Julie who thinks goats are too cute to eat.

Today we've got to take our papers to the Coastguard, help Taio pick up his pots and look at his boat, and Julie and I have decided on a beach day. Both Julie and Twent are picking up more colour than us, although given how white they were when they arrived that's hardly surprising.

Friday we head back to Margarita, this time with the wind and swell, we hope.

Ciao for now . and lots of love .

Comments [3]

Jules/Mike
28/12/2009, Isla Margarita Venezuela

Well, what can I say? We left Los Testigos at around 6 a.m. and had a good journey over to Isla Margarita, arriving around 2 p.m. First impressions from the sea were of a largely commercial island with lots of high-rise apartment buildings and industrial areas. And, after being warned so much about the bandidos and the problems in Venezuela, we weren't quite sure what to expect. So far however everything has been wonderful. Really wonderful.

Within minutes of dropping anchor in Porlamar Bay we had the Port Captain over because he thought we were commercial and couldn't stay there. Luckily he soon realised we were ok and after checking our papers told us to see him on shore to go through immigration in half an hour.

Then we were called on the radio by our Canadian friend Paul who we'd met in Trinidad and who has been here for the last three months or so. We went over to see him, borrowed his phone (as our Trini one doesn't work here), a bit of the local currency (Bolivars, which have an official exchange rate of 2:1 with the US$, and an unofficial one of 5.5:1), and headed to the shore.

We stopped to save a pelican that had just caught a fishing hook through its gullet and into its chest. And, pulling up at the dinghy dock, we saw our friend Axel who we'd also met in Trinidad and who has lived here for years. It was almost like coming home!

Axel took us over to immigration which unfortunately didn't go quite according to plan. Our passports were eventually stamped but there's a bit of a problem with the boys which still needs to be sorted ... although we're assured it can all be done as long as we grease the wheels.

We bought beer, yeh!! And called back at Paul's to return the phone. He told us about the Christmas lunch being held in Jaks beach bar the following day and we agreed to pick him and a few others up and take them in.

Within a few hours of being here we'd managed to organise our Christmas and get internet on board.

We had a few beers and a quiet night. Up early the next morning although it sure didn't feel like Christmas day, probably because the sun was shining, it was hot and the only decoration we had was a gold angel my mum had given me the year before and I found behind the sofa. The lunch, however, was outstanding. Turkey, all the trimmings (except sprouts); Mike was guest chef and made the gravy, much to everyone's delight. We met all the local cruisers. Not many, only about 35 boats in the bay, and mainly single men (English, American and Canadian). We were back on board by 7.30 and then had a mini-Christmas with the boys, opening the few presents we'd been given in Trinidad and pulling the five crackers we had left over from last year. It was all new to them ... and finally felt like Christmas.

The next day (they don't have Boxing day) we arranged to go shopping for food supplies. Unfortunately George didn't turn up ... fortunately the beach bars, which are near the dinghy dock, were open. We had a few beers, beautiful seafood served in plastic cups (all the oysters, mussels and octopus and fresh lime you could want), and hot crispy empanadas.

Just about to go back to the boat when we bumped into Axel and his wife Angelika who had arrived from Germany the day before. They took us to a hyper market and then to one of the largest shopping malls I've ever seen to get a phone card. That turned out to be quite an ordeal: they wanted passport and finger-prints before it could issued, no cheap sim cards around here.

The whole experience has so far been something of a surprise. For all the anti-American rhetoric from Chavez just about everything we've seen is American. The cars, the tvs showing American films, the computers, the restaurants In the mall there's a Hard Rock Café, MacDonalds, KFC, Burger King, Tony Romas ... just about every US outlet you can imagine.

The hyper-markets are bigger than anything we've seen since we left Las Palmas, and the food on offer is amazing. Whole aisles full of fresh fruit and vegetables, we went a bit crazy and will be living off vegs for the next few days. Beer sells at 26p a can in the store and 30p a bottle in the bar. You can buy Gordons gin and vodka at £2.50 a bottle ... funnily though we seem to be drinking less here than we did in Trinidad.

Yesterday we met a friend of Pedro's, Jose, who took us around a little. He lives in Pampatar which is the next, more commercial, harbour along. All the roads seem to be wide and well-maintained. The apartment blocks clean and neat, the people friendly and eager to please. We did go through some less salubrious barrios, and there is no doubt there's some social unrest out there, but Margarita is a tax-free holiday island for Venezuelans and Jose informs us that as long as we stay out of the rough areas we should be ok.

We have heard some pretty scary stories about some of the goings on here; the hold-ups and the dinghy thefts, but things don't seem to be any worse than Chaguaramas. Port of Spain, incidentally, has just been voted the least safe tourist destination in the Caribbean.

Today we have another meeting with immigration and tomorrow our friend Julie from Maryport is flying in to stay for ten days. Not quiet sure yet what we're doing for New Year but I'm sure we'll think of something!!

Wishing everyone a VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR from the beautiful Isla Margarita!!!

Lots of love ....

PS We've just found out our friend Paul has been released from jail, completely cleared after paying the required amount ... who says justice doesn't have a price!

Comments [2]

Jules
24/12/2009, 11 22'N:63 07'W, Los Testigos - 23.12.09

Well, what can I say? We're on the move again!!!

Out through the first Boca (Dragon's Mouth) and into the open sea. A little bumpy close to the islands but absolutely nothing, that I've found so far, has fallen over . maybe we're getting better at tying things down or maybe it just isn't as rough as we've had it before.

We left at around 3.30 p.m. which gave us enough daylight to get the boys adjusted. They all seem to be doing well, even Anton who apparently has a tendency to sea-sickness, we just found out.

Thanks to Toby we saw the dolphins come to escort us out. They were way under the bow and if he hadn't been yelping out the fairleads we may have missed them.

Once we'd got used to the motion the evening was beautiful: clear skies with a Cheshire Cat moon. We drank a few beers, unfortunately our last (somebody screwed up on the provisioning there). The boys stood two hour watches and Mike slept on the day-bed in case of problems. I don't think any of us got much sleep; it's a case of getting used to the different noises again, and for me, holding on to the bedrail to stop me moving!

The kerosene treatment we gave the injector heads has worked like a charm and we had no black smoke at all. At times we were doing well over 7knts and averaged around 6.5.

Toby seemed to take it all in his stride but we were a bit worried about Nellie. We heard her a few times but couldn't find her and thought she must have gone to find somewhere quiet. It wasn't until early the next morning that Mike worked out that we'd actually managed to lock her under the wheelhouse floor. Luckily she didn't seem particularly phased by it and once she'd eaten was fine . yes, poor thing, over eight hours without food, she's not used to that. We sighted Los Testigos around day break (6 a.m.). Testigos is a small group of islands, two inhabited, six in all, with a population of about 200. There are NO shops, no bars and everything is very tranquil. We've dropped anchor in a small bay off Grande Testigos, pure white sand, turquoise sea and palm trees . just like to brochures! And totally different to Chaguaramas.

We had our first visitors at 8 a.m. A local fisherman and his two boys (Taio, Miguel and Ali) who needed some 2-cycle oil for his outboard and which luckily we'd stocked up on before we left Trinidad. Everything they have has to come from Isla Margarita which is about seven hours away for most in their Venezuelan pirogues (similar to the ones in Trinidad but more colourful and with a flared bow).

At 10 a.m we set off in the Zodiac to visit immigration. You can't actually check into Venezuela here but need to report in and get permission to stay for up to three days. The rib ride was a little bumpy and about a mile. From there we went looking for beer, unsuccessfully. What we did find though was a guy who was the island mechanic, Benjamin (aka King of the Beach).

He insisted we go to his 'house' on the beach to drink rum and fresh coconut juice. Several hours later, lying in a hammock in the shade among the dismembered outboards, chickens and pigs, all was well! Some friends of his came by and he sent them to dive for lobsters for us. Everyone is so friendly and laid back, unlike Margarita they tell us, and won't take money for anything.

We brought Benjamin back to the Buzzard, which may have been a small mistake as he got completely drunk . the problem with no beer: you have to drink gin and tonic, it's a hard life! We ate fresh cooked lobster and managed an early night.

It's really strange here after being in the industrial centre of Chaguaramas for so long. There are no lights (they only get electricity, from a generator, for a few hours each day), and no noise apart from the wind and the sea. It's fairly breezy out of the lee but at least it blows in one direction so there's no swinging on the anchor. We've only seen a few sail boats, two that had been in Chaguaramas, it's a large but small world out on planet ocean.

First thing this morning we took Toby and some coffee and sat on the beach watching the sun-rise. Just can't get it into my head it's Christmas in two days!

Mike and Johan went with Taio and the boys to pull his lobster traps. Unfortunately no lobster, but plenty of beautiful fish. We've been invited, the boys included, to his house for food later this afternoon, no set time, nobody has a watch. We're going to put together a package of things he's asked for and some clothes and toys for the children; hope it helps their Christmas.

Tomorrow, Christmas Eve, at 6 a.m. we're planning to set off for Margarita. It's about 50 miles south-east and will take us about eight hours. We've totally miss timed it, being a day late . we're going to arrive around 4 p.m. Christmas Eve with no beer!

Lots of love and A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS TO EVERYONE!!!!!!

Comments [8]