Jules
02/04/2010, St. Georges, Grenada

Starting to settle in to the Grenada life-style a little more now, although we don't intend to have a long stay here, maybe ten days/two weeks at most.

Grenada is the southern most group of the windward islands and includes Grenada itself (population approx. 95,000), Carriacou (our next stop) and Petite Martinque, which are two smaller islands slightly further north. So far the impressions are good; a bit like a cleaner, friendlier, quieter Tobago, and very Englishy in a tropical kind of way. Like most of the Caribbean though It's had it's fair share of historical ups and downs, the latest being invasion by the Americans in 1983, and being devastated by Hurricane Ivan in 2005. At the moment it's also suffering one of its worst droughts to date and a lot of tropical forests are showing the consequences.

The local currency, which we've finally managed to get hold of, is the EC (Eastern Caribbean) $, with an exchange rate of EC$2.67 to US$1. Prices are fairly steep (definitely compared with Venezuela) with beer (the usual price yardstick) costing about EC$5 a bottle.

The island is geared towards yachties due to the many sheltered bays along the coasts. Because of this it also has a fair number of chandleries and supermarkets. Not much in the way of fresh fruit and veg though. It's also got a lot of tourist resorts and hotels, most of which look a bit expensive from where we are.

St. George's, the capital, is a nice little town set in a natural harbour and gets quite a lot of commercial freighters in. It's also on the cruise-ship circuit with one or two coming in each day during the season. It's hard to see how the small town copes when up to 10,000 visitors descend on it for the day. The ships, some of which we saw over in Las Palmas, arrive and disgorge their passengers early in the morning and are back at sea for the sunset cruise out. For some I think this must be their first port of call ... the pink faces and bright-red knees tend to give it away.

It feels pretty safe here ... it was a good feeling the morning after we arrived to look around and see dinghies left in the water. Not something that happened in Trinidad or Venezuela.

Last Sunday we went to Roger's Barefoot Bar and BBQ which is, apparently, one of the famous hangouts in Grenada. Just a little shack on Hog Island, full of yachties, tourists, locals, food, drink and the smell of ganja so strong you could cut the air with a knife.

The next few days were spent trying to fix our computer, get money (my debit card was rescinded without me knowing and my credit cards blocked), and somehow get hold of internet on the boat. We managed the money, eventually, after exhausting several options we now have to take our computer in to get looked at professionally, and we still can't get the internet.

Wednesday we upped anchor and motored round to Prickly Bay which is about 7 miles round (only two by land) on the south east of Grenada near the international airport. We met up with our friend Ken from Trinidad and his German crew (Stefan, Birgit and their two sons) and had a very enjoyable night on the Buzzard. It's always good to meet up with people you know ... and people you don't!


Prickly Bay itself, however, is not too good. We've visited the bays on either side, True Blue Bay and Phare Bleu, both of which are just resort/marinas with fancy restaurants and bars (one being a 1901 ex-Swedish light ship). To get food, which we constantly need with our crew, we ended up having to get a bus back to St. George's which sort of defeats the object so we're going to head back round there.

We had a couple of medical issues in the last week. One, Johan's leg came up in a welter of small blisters which we think was due to contact with a poisonous manchioneel tree. The other was Toby ... his tick infestation got so bad we took him to the GSPCA, only the stuff they gave us turned out to be too strong. The next day he could hardly walk and had a glazed look in his eyes, and the ticks were running off him. Luckily they're both ok now though.
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Since writing that we've moved back round to St. Georges and are slightly closer to shore than we were previously. And ... we have the internet!!! Not sure how long it'll last so I'll post this while I can.

HAPPY EASTER TO YOU ALL ... AND LOTS OF LOVE

PS The weather sure sounds good over in Cumbria!

Comments [7]

Jules
29/03/2010, St. Georges, Grenada

Finally arrived in Grenada (6.30 p.m. Friday 25th). Yes, we spent an extra day in Los Testigos, partly because it was blowing pretty hard and partly because it's probably the last time we'll ever visit and we just didn't want to leave.

Taio came over and took us to the turtle beach on the east side of the island. Walked up great big sand dunes just along from the Casa Verde and up over the island to the other side. The trade winds were gusting and the sea was rough; took Mike's shorts off when he tried to dive through the surf. Toby was in his element chasing coconuts and crabs.

The turtle egg laying season isn't really underway yet, it's normally around April to July but we could see the tracks of some of the enormous (500kgs) turtles that had already been up the beach to lay eggs. Apparently they only get around 20-30 a year but they come and lay up to three times each season.

We gave Taio our blue dinghy for his boys. We haven't really used it for a while but it was still quite sad watching it being towed away. To think it came from the bottom of Elizabeth Dock all the way over to the Caribbean to end its days. It's been a good little work-horse over the year or so we've had it but I'm sure it'll be much more useful here than if we'd kept it, and it sure makes the top deck look big again.

The next day, after a final session with Taio's generator, we headed out. A little disconcerting as the PC, which I'd had up and running the day before, chose not to work and the GPS wouldn't work on the laptop at all. Within 30 minutes we were surrounded by dolphins ... only I didn't see them much from my place under the wheelhouse dash trying to get some sort of communication going.

Luckily another boat that we'd seen in Porlamar was behind us and heading for Grenada. They called up and said they would make sure we were in sight so we could follow them if all else failed. It made me feel somewhat more confident than heading out into the wild blue yonder with only half an idea of exactly where we were.

The white-caps weren't too bad but the 4 knot current and headwinds definitely made themselves felt. For the first 12 hours we struggled to do more than 2 knots. The boat going in our direction was long gone out of sight. Eventually we managed to get the GPS working with Tsunami 99 on the laptop so at least we knew where we were slowly going.

What should have been a 20 hour journey took around 30 and we finally made it into St. Georges just after sunset. First impressions of Grenada : it reminded me of a tropical Isle of Man, thought we were about to anchor off Laksey Bay. It's hilly and green and extremely picturesque with coloured houses on stilts and red-roofed churches up from Carenage harbour ... actually, it's nothing like the Isle of Man.

We all had a much needed good night's sleep and left formalities to the following day. Which is just as well as they took most of the day anyway. First to the immigration at 9 a.m. only no one was there, then a 15 minute walk into town to get some local currency from the bank machine ... which wouldn't accept my cards. Back to the immigration who said we would have to pay extra because it was the weekend and the boys had to have visas, which could be arranged but had to be paid for.

It meant the few US$ we had wouldn't cover it. So ... another walk into town to find an internet café to contact the bank and then to a teller machine and back to immigration. Then back to the boat to get the boys to fill in the forms (which Johan completely cocked up). However, after about six hours start to finish we were finally all stamped in and paid up.

Our first impression of the locals hasn't been as good as hoped. The girl in the yacht club was particularly unhelpful and non-welcoming. The immigration was relatively friendly but so far we haven't seen the warm welcoming smiles we'd been told were a Grenadian staple. I'm beginning to think maybe it's us.

We did, however, meet quite a few friendly ex-pats in the yacht club bar while we were waiting for the boys' visas. The bad news is it's back to drinking Carib which is a fair bit stronger than the Polar we're used to ... leading to a bit of a hangover this morning.

Further reflections will have to wait as we're round at Tony's using his internet and I want to post this while I can ....

Love to all ...

Comments [3]

Jules
24/03/2010, 11 22'N:63 07'W, Los Testigos

So we finally left Margarita Â. definitely not the calmest exit weÂ've ever made.

As per the Guardia Nacional instructions we were at the immigration office at 9 a.m. Friday to check out. Only there was a power cut so we were told to come back at 11. What a way to try and run a country, beautiful as it is!!

Went back and then had to go into Porlamar to the INEA office to officially clear out, the main office at Pampatar was closed as it was having a Â"black dayÂ" Â. luckily we got a lift (there and back) from our friendly policeman Jose Gomez, but it still took well over an hour Â- which was rapido apparently.

Then back to immigration and another hour of form filling and bureaucracy. We were given 24 hours, told that Julian couldnÂ't stay on board as weÂ'd officially left the country (!), and that if we were here longer than 24 hrs there would be dire consequences!!!!.

Axel was going to lend us his car at midday to go get the last of the provisions, only he didnÂ't turn up until 3 pm. We went to three different supermarkets only to find that the last one we went to didnÂ't have any beer so we ended up back at the first one. By this time we were so hassled we ended up not getting half the stuff we needed, and quite a few things we didnÂ'tÂ.. Setting sail without everything, sounds like weÂ're not some of them Â"GonnasÂ" at least..

Met up at JakÂ's bar for a final few drinks but werenÂ't really in the mood Â. got there at 7.30 and missed the sunset completely.

Saturday we took Julian ashore, said goodbye and came back to start the engine and leave. All going according to plan (well apart from the increasing wind); the dinghies up and lashed, the engine running. Turned on the computer and it wouldnÂ't work and the back up on the laptop wouldnÂ't recognise the GPS Â. aarrghh!!!

Spent a frantic hour calling Robert the Wifi guy, who unfortunately couldnÂ't help, taking things apart, putting them back together and watching the Coastguard patrol boat that was going ominously backwards and forwards about half a mile out.

Eventually we managed to get the PC GPS hooked into the laptop and decided that was all we could do. We pulled out of Porlamar at 12.30 Â. exactly 24hrs from when weÂ'd officially cleared.

The wind was rising and the waves right on our nose so not too comfortable, the steering wasnÂ't doing what it should either. Still, we made it out and at all of a little under 4 knts started out towards Los Testigos. Half an hour later the patrol boat circled in and called us on the radio. This was not a good time; given the problems with the Guardia Nacional et al. we were fully expecting to be boarded and searched. Luckily they just took our details and wished us a pleasant trip, to say we were relieved is somewhat of an understatement!

The trip over to Los Testigos wasnÂ't too bad, just slow and laborious. The highlight was a host of small dolphins that came out to show us the way. We dropped anchor at 2 a.m.

Needless to say we were all a bit tired the next day. Just seeing the dazzling white beach and swaying palm trees was a much needed boost though. Not sure the arrival of Benjamin and about 10 others at 9 a.m. could be classed the same way!

Children, chicitas, hombres from Cuprano (bandito town), all piled on board for coffee and rum on the top deck. MikeÂ's reputation as number one mechanic has spread and everyone wanted to meet him.

As a thank you for our hospitality Benjamin was back at 1 pm to take Mike and Johan diving for langousta. Not sure that was too good an idea either. No langoustas were found but at least we got a couple of good size speared fish for supper.

We decided to go to the beach for a pre-sundown swim but that didnÂ't go quite according to plan either. Toby came with us, swam ashore and promptly chased and caught a small goat Â. I kid you not(!) Get it ??. After severe chastisement, once again, we had to tie him up to a palm tree; somehow the tranquillity had gone.

Instead of swimming we took Toby back to the Buzzard and went off to see Taio. Sitting under the awning on his cliff, finally relaxing and having a few beers with him and his sister Â. who suddenly pointed at the Buzzard that was slowly drifting out to sea and back towards Margarita!!!!

Jumped in the dinghy and made it back out there, started the engine and spent half an hour re-setting the anchor. WeÂ'd inadvertently, in the middle of the night, dropped it near a ridge and the strong winds had blown us back and over the edge. Mike was Mr. Cool, Calm and Collected Â. I definitely wasnÂ't. The boys have had some lessons in emergency procedures, let me tell ya!!..

Next day it rained: first weÂ've really seen since leaving Trinidad. A heavy shower first thing which seemed to clear the air, and another one just as we were checking in with the Coastguards. They were much friendlier than their Margaritan counter-parts and actually gave us coffee while we were waiting for the downpour to end.

We then headed over to see Benjamin as Mike had sharpened and altered his spear gun for him. He was adamant that he would find us some langousta that day, but only if we came with him.

We spent almost two hours in his pineiro while he dived the small islands. All he managed to come up with was a sea-cucumber. In fact the nearest we came to anything like a langousta was the colour of my face after being in the sun for so long. WeÂ've been in the Caribbean for almost a year and itÂ's the first time IÂ've got sunburnt. Are langoustas really worth it I ask myself?

Actually itÂ's a bit worrying for the local population as it would appear the creatures, their main source of income, have moved on or have been over caught or something. WhateverÂ's happening the stocks arenÂ't what they should be at this time of year.

Benjamin then took us on an extended tour of his friends and then back to his beach for Anis and fresh coco. Say no moreÂ.

We had planned on leaving the next day but the white-caps were still out in force and our local fishermen friends reckon tomorrow is a better day Â. as always.

Today I managed to get the PC up and running again, GPS and all. But the laptop is still not accepting the input. Oh well, I guess you canÂ't have everything.

WeÂ've had several fishing boats alongside looking for help with parts Â. IÂ'm sure Mike could open up a one-stop mechanical service here. As I type heÂ's welding some kind of nut to a wrench to help get one of the boats back out there. At least they bring fish with them. MikeÂ's also mended TaioÂ's generator for him (just happened to have a spare capacitor) and everyone wants us to stay. (The talk of Los Testigos being taken over by Columbian banditos is apparently much exaggerated Â- thankfully.)

However Â. manana we head out. Maybe!

Hopefully IÂ'm sending this via sat-phone. If not youÂ'll get it later. (Hope you canÂ't tell I stress a little when we move on..)

Lots of love from Los Testigos Â.

PS I so wish Julie and Twent et al. were here with us. CÂ'mon guys, where are you?!

Comments [4]