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Underway
Jules
16/02/2009, 224 17'N:18 52'E, 570 miles from Cabo Verde

We're now two days out from Las Palmas. Not the best of starts to the journey. Firstly the engine wouldn't start, and after numerous thoughts as to what could be the cause it turned out to be the fact that the emergency stop had been activated to show the new crew and hadn't been reset (Doh!!). Then the fire alarms kept going off, which always fills you with confidence, even if it does turn out to be nothing.

Finally got away at 3.20 pm. A little more blustery than forecast and lumpy going across the wind to get round Gran Canaria. By around 7 pm though we were on our course (222) for Cabo Verde. (Oh and it's 860 miles not the 700 I thought It was.)

So we have a good couple of hours of calmish weather, Mic and Marie are on watch, saw their first dolphins and were really excited. Then the north east swell sets in and keeps on coming. It probably wasn't as bad as Biscay and definitely not as scary as the storm we had off the Portugese coast, but still none too pleasant and a bit disconcerting for the new crew.

A few things went flying but then that seems to happen no matter how organised you try to be. We eventually started to get adjusted to the motion (courtesy of Stugeron) and actually managed supper I vaguely remember, although no one was very hungry. We turned in early to try and get some sleep before our watch at 4 am. We'd only been in bed an hour when the generator on the side of the engine packed up and all the lights went out. Mike got up to fix that one or at least try to, we have to run on the back-up gen-set as we can't fix the other without turning off the main engine . not what we want to do in this swell.

Anyway, he was busy doing what he could and lights were going on and off depending on what he was trying to do when this enormous wave hit us dead centre starboard. I was standing inside at the bottom of the stairs and looked up to see this wall of water shooting down the passageway. Marina had been standing in the doorway looking out and got completely drenched, although luckily she didn't seem too fazed by it. I went into our cabin to see that it had also come in through the open portholes. Absolutely everything was soaking: the bedding, the clothes hanging up at the other side of the room, even the clothes in the drawers, and I was standing in two inches of water wondering what on earth to do first.

We eventually calmed down from that one and mopped up what we could. Not so easy when you're not feeling 100% anyway. Couldn't go to bed even if we wanted to as everything was wet (including ALL our cigarette papers which has lead to an enforced no-smoking period) so settled down on the couch until the next little hiccup, and the one after that. Then on watch at 4am and the bilge alarm starts going off, apparently the mop handle needed replacing (technical term which Bob knows all about). Mike and I spent the next hour or so under the engine-room floor until finally all was sorted. Don't know whether it was the stress, the motion or being in the engine-room for so long but Mike was sea-sick for the first time, ever. He seems to be clocking up quite a few firsts just lately.

Yesterday everyone was tired and/or sea-sick. Nobody had slept hardly and the swell was still coming. Nellie and Toby resumed couch privileges. And I'm sure the new crew were beginning to wonder what on earth they'd let themselves in for, and me along with them, once again. Although even amongst all the madness there's been some magnificent moments, to watch the dolphins jump round the boat and see the amazing stars . we've been lucky enough to watch Venus rising every evening in a crystal clear sky.

Then this morning . alls well with the world. Everyone had a good night's sleep and they're getting used to the swell, which is easing somewhat although the white caps are still there. The sun's shining and we've even managed, with Andrea's expert sailing knowledge, to get the sails up (thanks John D. and Bob & Glenys - shame you didn't quite get to see them fly!) . not sure if it will help so much with the fuel but it should at least slow down the rolling. Later this afternoon the fishing lines will go out and who knows what we'll be eating for supper!

Some of the other crew also want to post blogs so you'll start getting different (hopefully all good!) perspectives soon.

Lots of love ..



Petit resume en francais: tout va bien aujourd'hui après de nombreuses aventures. Le depart a ete plutot bon, ca bougeait un peu mais c'etait plutot marrant (pour nous les francais car tous les autres ont ete malades!!) mais pendant notre quart de 20h a 00h, une fois qu'on s'etaient remis du magnifique spectacle des dauphins, vers 22h30 le vent s'est leve d'un coup et plus d'electricite!! Bref dur dur, une enorme vague est rentree et a mouillee toute la cabine de nos capitaines. tout le monde a commence a avoir un tein plutot verdatre. enfin bon aucune chance de dormer le bateau tangait comme jamais! Le lendamain, on etait tous extenue et la mer ne se calmait pas vraiment mais hier soir tout est renter dans l'ordre et ce matin le soleil etait au rendez vous ainsi que nos sourires. Aujourd'hui on a mis les voiles! On ne va pas vraiment plus vite mais ca stabilise un peu le bateau. On avance a un bon rythme et d'ici 4 jours si tout va bien nous seront au Cap Vert. Nous faisont les quart de 8h a 12h puis de 20h a 00h Mic et moi, et c'est vraiment sympa d'etre a la place du capitaine! Ils nous font bien confience et on essaie d'assurer le mieux qu'on peut! Des bisous. Marie et Mic

Here it is!
Jules, Warm and Sunny
13/02/2009, Las Palmas

We have now been in Las Palmas one month. Time seems to pass differently here, and things always take longer than you expect (manana). As usual everyday is busy and there always seems to be more to do.

We've had some quite major changes in the time we've been here. We now have a whole new crew. Ed went back to England the first week we were here and decided not to re-join us. And unfortunately Bob and Glenys have commitments which meant that they too had to leave. It was sad to see them go and a little daunting to be on our own after all their help and support since leaving Maryport.

However, we now have a young French couple (Michael and Marie-Cerise) who are in their 20s, and are on their way to South America to work for a charity. They moved on board the same day that Bob and Glenys left and are proving to be a real asset, they are motivated and enthusiastic and good fun to be around. Like me Marie is learning fast, yesterday she made her first bread (thank you Glenys), today she's been helping to crane stuff from the top deck to the back deck. Michael has got our compressor (for the sandblaster) cleaned and running and has the chain flaking down to a fine art.

Last Sunday we also took on board an Italian couple in their 40s who are looking to travel. Andrea and Marina have had various sailing/charter experiences in the Adriatic and are very likeable and keen to get along. As you can imagine the mix of languages makes for some interesting mis-interpretations but I'm happy to say that my pigeon English is coming on really well. Marina is a great cat lover so Nellie is starting to come round from her 'Glenys withdrawals'.

All the crew have a great 'we can do it' attitude and have adopted Obama's slogan whole-heartedly. They've already started chipping the decks and can't wait to start shouting 'we did it'.

Our position in the port is quite surreal at times. We're at anchor close to the marina but just across from the main container dock. The boats are in and out all day and night, the tugs are moving them around and the swell they cause is sometimes quite strong. This is apparently a sea cross-roads where goods come from all over the world on their way to/from Europe, South Africa and South America.

The local people we've met in Las Palmas have been so friendly and warm and helpful. Javier, who works at the marina, has been kind enough to drive us around quite often. He took us up to a volcano (extinct) and also round the old part of Las Palmas to see the majestic architecture ... it's probably just as well really as otherwise, once again, the only parts of the place I would have seen are the industrial areas and the docks.

Peppino who owns the Sailors Bar at the marina came out to see us (as have several others - apparently they don't get many ex-steam tugs out here!) and had the whole crew back to cook us a special Italian meal which was wonderful.

In the first few weeks we were here we contacted a local charity (The Sea Couriers www.correosdelamar.org ), run by Martha. Their main aim is to get sail boats to take smallish parcels of clothes over to Cabo Verde. As you can imagine the amount of room on our boat was quite something for her and we now have on board the larger items that sail boats couldn't carry (nursery furniture etc.), along with a backlog of clothes and shoes that have been waiting to go.

We've had various people for supper. The best being Mike's sushi party, of which we've had two so far. Something you can never get enough of and which never ceases to amaze. We've also been invited out several times to Najib and Fati's to sample the best of Moroccan cuisine (Grandfather's Garden Targine and homemade cous-cous).

The Pirate Carnival started in Last Palmas on 3rd February and although we've heard it every night of the weekends until the early hours of the morning we haven't been tempted to go. The youngsters did though ... and paid the price, 2.50 Euros for a beer (the whole event is sponsored by Heineken and the green tents are everywhere) and a REALLY bad hangover in the morning!

Our friends Ken and Gail (USA/Canada) who we met in the first few days after we arrived are still here. They have been here since September and have been about to leave since we got here. It's been, for me, a good introduction to another way of life (that would be 'life on planet ocean') ... although I still struggle with the time concept and always feel like I should be doing something else. Hurrying up and waiting as Mike would say.

Which reminds me, how on earth could I forget, Mike asked me to marry him! He was very serious and quite emotional and asked in front of Bob and Glenys (Bob reckons that as Captain that means our first born has to be called Robert Arthur!) ... don't know whether he wanted witnesses for me or him. We're not sure when the wedding will take place, some time/place that we can get the families together.

Last week we went to get fuel. We managed a good rate of 32p a litre and have got enough to get us over to Venezuela, although generally speaking the weakening GBD isn't doing us any favours and luxuries are something that are few and far between. Then again for us the luxury is actually being here, even though this is apparently the worst winter they've had for over 35 years it's bloody great! We've had a few blowing days and ten minutes of what you would call rain and otherwise warm and sunny ... sorry folks!

Mike's taken two trips into the water in the last week, both unexpected and sober, and apparently it's the first time EVER in all his life that he's fallen in. Luckily (for him) the third was Toby. Marina heard him crying but couldn't find him until she looked in the water. Not sure how long he'd been there but he managed to find the only piece of dry 'land' he could get to and was standing on the rudder stock. Hopefully he's learnt his lesson and won't be doing that again.

Yesterday Javier took us to Mercal Las Palmas, the giant wholesale market that we went to the first day with Gonzalos. It's quite something to see and I guess the majority of all fruit, veg, cheese, meat and fish pass through here before going on to shops and restaurants all over the Canaries. The variety and freshness was wonderful to see, as were the prices ... makes you realise that everywhere the world over the middle-man takes the most.

The rest of the day was spent preparing to leave, lashing down the decks and the hold and every other thing that can (and generally does) move around once we're underway. Today we have a few last minute things to get (like spark plugs and 2-stroke oil and Chinese spices and a boat shell - the usual stuff) and the day after we hope to be heading towards Cabo Verde. Hopefully on this leg of the journey we can finally start to use our sails which should help with the speed/economy, should be interesting to find out.

So ... it look likes we're all set to leave on Saturday, although I'm fast learning never to count on leaving the exact day you plan! I'm feeling apprehensive and excited all at the same time (does wonders for the diet but not the grey hairs!)

Love to all ... Jules, Mike and the (all new) Flying Buzzard Crew

PS The photos come courtesy of the crew, unfortunately our camera finally lost the plot, don't know whether it was just old age or the sea water from the beach launch in the surf at Funchal.

PPS For anyone who didn't get the updates of the first part of our journey you can see them on our website (www.flyingbuzzard.com) under 'latest news'.

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