The Whale Watching Capital of Australia

Pictured: The fantastic 'Humpback Whales' putting on a spectacular show for us!!!

HERVEY BAY At the top of The Great Sandy Straits is a bay called Hervey Bay. The width of the bay [from the Mainland (Burnett /Port Bundaberg) to the tip of Fraser Island] is approx 45 Nautical Miles - The length appox 35 Nautical Miles. This is the Whale-Watching Capital of Australia. The Whale-Watching season is July-November.

MIGRATION During Winter (Australian winter) anywhere between 1200-3000 'Humpback Whales' migrate the 5000km (or 3,200 miles) from the southern waters of the Antarctic to the warmer waters of the tropics (Queensland) to give birth to their calves. (note: They don't all migrate at once.) Hervey Bay provides a nice protected area for the Whales to relax and feed their young.

WHALES Humpback Whales are mammals, breath air, grow to around 15 meters (or 50 feet), weigh around 45,000kg (99,000 pounds) and feed their young calfs milk (which is the consistency of yogurt). The young calfs are initially born with no blubber but gain around 45-60 kilo's (or 99-140 pounds) PER DAY (i don't feel so bad)!. The calfs receive 600- liters (or 158 gallons) of milk from their mothers each day!

ENDANGERED Humpbacks are still the third most endangered species of all the big whales, but now their numbers are increasing 13% each year. MAN has been the biggest predator but fortunately they are now protected in most countries (like Australia and the USA). A natural predator is the shark. We saw a shark while out there.....

WHAT A SHOW IN HERVEY BAY It takes time and patience to find the whales but once you spot the pods (in a variety of areas) they put on quite a show! Blowing air out of their spouts, slapping their flukes, breeching, breaking the surface and diving - AWESOME!!!!! It is quite humbling to be in their presence.

DURING OUR TRAVELS NORTH We saw many whales migrating north in our travels. They normally swim 15k (10 miles per hour) but can go up to 24-26k (or 15-17mph). Consequently, we mainly saw them 'passing us by' on the trip north. So, it was fantastic to get to see them in Hevery Bay where they are relaxing and playing.

CRUISING FOOTNOTE: Just so you don't think 'CRUISING' is all fun and games - daily routines take some work (and are done in all types of weather - windy, rainy or sunny). Doing laundry - we need to carry our laundry (and detergent, etc) up to the laundromat and hope no one else is using all the machines - and then go back & forth for the wash/rinse/ dry cycles (and find somewhere to get the 'right change' for the machines). While in a marina - we have to walk up to use the bathrooms. One needs to 'get dressed' to go take a shower using the marina facilities. Today we will need to walk to the local bus stop and go in town to get a loaf of bread. When we come in from sailing - we need to wash down the boat (our home) to get the salt off. This can be a major task depending on where we are and what the water restrictions are - mostly we can only use 'buckets of water' to wash down the boat - because the use of a 'hose' is not permitted. You also have 'fill the water tanks' in order to have water on-board, as well as, plug in the electrical cord to have electricity. There is no 'dishwasher' (machine - just me) or microwave. Just a few examples....

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Through 'The Great Sandy Straits' (behind Fraser Island) - (Wednesday, 12th of Sept to Saturday, 15th of Sept)

PICTURED: Morning Sunrise before crossing the Wide Bay Bar, Foggy Morning at Gary's Anchorage, Blue Skies behind the Dead Gum Tree, Sunset at Kingfisher

MOOLOOLABA via WIDE BAY BAR to GARY'S ANCHORAGE (Wed/Thursday) After waiting out another rainy session (did I say rain - I mean deluge) the conditions were finally great for crossing the Wide Bay Bar - less than 1M swell at the bar. We departed from Mooloolaba at 6:30PM Wednesday night giving ourselves 12 hours to get to Wide Bay Bar - so we could cross during a 'Flood Tide' and with the 'Morning Light' (6:30AM Thursday) .

It was a long night (but at least it was NOT cold). Initially the sky was clear and the stars were brightly shining but after passing the brightly lit up resort town of Noosa - there were clouds on the horizon and no lights on-shore. It was dark, dark & dark! So, as you sat there alone on 'your shift' It looked like you were sailing into 'black nothingness' - really spooky.... (I could understand how ancient mariners thought they were going to sail off the edge of the earth.) I was grateful for the GPS Plotter which reassured me we were sailing in the right direction and that there was 'life out there'.

We arrived early and had to wait for the morning light. We ensured all the 'hatches were battened down', notified the Coast Guard were about to Cross the Bar and then followed the recommended navigational procedures for crossing the Wide Bay Bar (for those interested I have detailed them at the end of this blog). I'm pleased to report that after all the 'anticipation' about crossing 'The Bar' it was calm and uneventful. (took about 45-50 minutes to cross)

GARY'S ANCHORAGE (Thrus & Friday) We then headed to GA through the morning fog paying very close attention to the channel markers and depths - (this took another 2 1/2 hours). It was really pretty at GA. Mornings started with rising fog, the sounds of many tropical birds, watching the herons, hawks and sea eagles catching fish - but most exiting of all was the tons of sea turtles who stuck their heads up (on long necks) to catch a gasping breath of air before diving down again. We went ashore but did not see any dingos. The sky was that beautiful 'pristine blue'. I love the typical sight of a dead gum tree against the "Australian deep blue sky" (pictured) - it's hard to describe but there is something about the ash gray tree against the blue sky that I find breathtaking.

KINGFISHER (Resort) ANCHORAGE (Friday) Deep Keel Boats need to use the TIDES to navigate through the very shallow Great Sandy Straits. You have to: 1) ensure that you get the tide from the appropriate location - (which constantly changes along the route), 2) use the 'rule of 12ths' to interpolate the correct depth and time for a given location and 3) get the channel markers right (we used both the charts and GPS plotter to ensure we were 'in the channel') - phew! We used all of the above to successfully navigate through the 'known' shallow parts on route to Kingfisher.

We anchored at Kingfisher which is a pretty 'open' anchorage (unlike Gary's anchorage which is very protected). Winds were from the North (not the best for that location) and it is a steep sloping contour - (goes from 2m to 17M in a fairly short distance). So we decided to stay on-board through at least one complete tide change before attempting to go ashore. It was sunny, beautiful and relaxing. Mike fished - a version of either constantly changing the fishing lures or just sitting with a drink and listening to the iPod (I will post a photo in the photo gallery) - by the way we had 'quiche' for diner :) It was a beautiful sunset (pictured). The nite however was bit rolly (due to the winds coming from the north - not to mention the strong currents that are throughout the Great Sandy Straits).

Just as we were ready to depart Kingfisher - a power boat anchored next to us. It was 'Crock One' - as in late Steve Irwin the Crockidile Hunter's 'Crock One'. That was the vessel he was using when he met with his untimely demise - the fatal attack of the stingray. (Note: I will be putting photos from our visit to his famous Zoo in the photo gallery - a picture of 'Crock One' will be included. )

URANGAN We departed for Urangan (sounds like 'Your Rang Gun' I think) on Saturday. This part of the trip was in open water - (although you still need to follow the channel because there are shallow areas everywhere). It was a lovely sunny day and the perfect temperature - a very pleasant relaxing journey. Hardly saw another boat.

Docking at the marina in Urangan was interesting - it is VERY tight - we are literally an arm's length to the Fishing Trawler next to us. Mike did a great job docking in this tight little berth. The berth is a good/bad location. Good if the weather is nice - have a great view out the channel entrance to the Great Sandy Straits - Bad if the weather isn't good because we aren't protected! Mike decided to take advantage of the 'good view' and set up folding chairs on the dock facing the channel entrance - we sat and had an evening drink while watching and waving to all the tourist boats coming in for the day. I couldn't believe Mike actually put the chairs out there on the dock - I don't think I have laughed this hard in a long time. I'm sorry we didn't get a picture of us sitting there......

Urangan is a quite a busy tourist area for wale watching and trips to Fraser Island. We plan to do some sightseeing while here.

NAVIGATION DETAILS Guidelines for crossing the Wide Bay Bar (Note: Chart has identified 3 Waypoints (WP) for you)

From South Steer a course of 340(T) with Double Island Pt Lt astern (until Lt is approx 8nm distance astern of you) to WP1

You should see directional light Isophase 4 seconds (day)- situated one mile north of Hook Point on Fraser Island Note: DO NOT PROCEED IF YOU HAVE NOT POSITIVELY IDENTIFIED THE LIGHT

From WP1 @ 25 47.62S 153 08.15E Steer course 296(T) for a Distance of 2.05NM to WP2 (approx 25-30minutes @ 4-5kts)

You should see Inskip Leads (Isophase 2 seconds on rear lead) bearing 243(T) (at this point you are fully committed so there is not turning back)

From WP2 @ 25 47.62S 153 06.07E Steer course 243(T) for a Distance of 1.2NM to WP3 (approx 15-20minutes @ 4-5kts)

From WP3 @ 25 48.21S 153 04.81E Steer course 270(T) You should be in open water with Bouy T1 (green) off your port bow

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Pictured: Local beaches, The Indonesian Tall Ship which ran aground, Mooloolaba Harbour

WEATHER: "The current low pressure system in Southeast Queensland is a freak event, not seen since the 1800s".

Ok - so is it 'changes' in the global weather patterns or is it us???? A record rainfall of 713mm or 24inches fell at Rainbow Beach (just below Wide Bay Bar) where the Indonesian Tall Ship ran aground during the 'low pressure system' storms. Winds have been 30-50+ knots and 4-6+ meter seas.

DECISION TO WAIT: Oh, I'm so glad we delayed our trip up to Fraser Island - thanks to www.seabreeze.com.au which gives long term weather forecasts!!!! Our original plans would have put us there (Fraser & Wide Bay Bar) for the storm - but due to the great 'long-term' forecasting on the seabreeze web site we choose to stay here and wait (despite the weather being perfect & sunny at the time).

MISFORTUNE FOR A TALL SHIP: An Indonesian Tall Ship traveling outside of Fraser Island headed for Sydney ran into serious problems due to the weather - they tried to anchor off Rainbow Beach (just south of the 'Wide Bay Bar') - their anchor did not hold in the high winds & seas and the ended up aground. The 18 Indonesian crews (equipped with guns) scrambled ashore. Yes, I said guns - they had many, carried for their own protection - No, they are not pirates.

HANGING OUT: Fortunately, below deck is warm and dry. The water in the harbor is very 'muddy' and going to use the 'facilities' gets you 'soaked'. We had hoped to go to Australia Zoo (founded by the late Steve "crikey" Irwin) but it's too wet to go and they are advising people to stay off the roads due to flooding.

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