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Friendship III
All about cruising on Friendship III
Sugarcane Country
by Michelle Stowe-Connor
30/09/2007, Port Bundaberg, Qld - Australia

Pictured:
Top - Port Bundaberg Marina, Waterfall into Burnett River
Bottom - Local 'Sugarcane Fields' (x2), View of fields & farms with ocean in background

THE TRIP
A sunny, pleasant and calm 7 hour trip from Urangan to Bundaberg on Monday - 24th of September. Yes, I'm a bit late in reporting..... Port Bundaberg Marina is quite nice but very isolated and far from town - actually pretty far from everything. Therefore, we went back (to Urangan) the following day to get the car. Without a car here it wouldn't be very good - with a car it's quite nice.

BUS TRIP
So far our experience going back via greyhound to get the car has been really good. Buses have been new, clean, on-time, pretty empty and able to take us to all the locations we have needed (and the bus depots' have been in nice areas). Well - not this time.... The location of the bus terminal in Bundaberg (approx. 35k from the mariana and located behind an old grubby-looking IGA and KMART) was NOT in the 'best' part of town. The bus was late - which meant we got to experience that charming (NOT) area longer (and it's local inhabitants). The bus was crowded and the driver was a former drill sergeant. Thinking this IGA was the place we were destined to do our food shopping - our 1st impression of downtown Bundaberg was NOT good.

DRIVING
The drive from Urangan to Bundaberg turned out to be really beautiful. The countryside was a sprawling patchwork of farmland, sugarcane fields, macadamia nut farms and a variety of flowering foliage in pinks, purples and whites. The roads were not crowded and the trip was really pleasurable.

Because we are in amongst the 'Sugar Fields' it's at least 25-kilometers to anywhere. (The area were we are is not documented in any street-directory!) The speed limit on the local 2-lane roads is 100K. Many side roads are dirt roads. There is no traffic - expect for an occasional tracker or 'Sugarcane-Train'. If you see 4 cars on your 25k trip - that's heavy traffic. So the area is quite Country-like but on the Ocean. There are no water restrictions here and they use 'sprinklers' to water the things - haven't seen 'sprinklers' being used in a loooooonng time. Anyway, we find the driving here very relaxing & enjoyable.

DOLPHINS
We are very lucky to have dolphins come into the marina (right behind the boat) every night. We have gone out in the dinghy a lot (cruising the Burnett River) and have seen dolphins each time. There's something very special about having dolphins as the locals....

STORES
One last thing - we did find the good shopping centers (new & clean), an Apple-mac store (with knowledgeable & helpful staff), and the 'Shalom Market' (open on Sunday's 6AM-12noon) where you can get fresh local produce very cheap. P.S. - the Apple store is located next to a Crystal store - added bonus

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30/09/2007 | Wyn (wyncon att comcast dott net)
Hi Michelle and Mike,
Happy Anniversary.
Great photos,did you decide to stay in Bundaberg for 6 months?
sending e-mail, love you Mom.
08/10/2007 | Kaz (kblack att alznsw dott asn dott au)
Hi Michelle and Mike
Your webpage looks fantastic, the pictures are great. We wish we were there with you. Take care, we miss you very much. Sail safe.
Love you Kaz, Shayne & Aidan xxxxx
09/10/2007 | Leonie (grandview att comcen dott com dott au)
Great to get your postcard even in La Belle france.
More later
Love
Leonie
Whale Watching
Michelle Stowe-Connor
17/09/2007, Hervey Bay, Queensland - Australia

The Whale Watching Capital of Australia

Pictured: The fantastic 'Humpback Whales' putting on a spectacular show for us!!!

HERVEY BAY At the top of The Great Sandy Straits is a bay called Hervey Bay. The width of the bay [from the Mainland (Burnett /Port Bundaberg) to the tip of Fraser Island] is approx 45 Nautical Miles - The length appox 35 Nautical Miles. This is the Whale-Watching Capital of Australia. The Whale-Watching season is July-November.

MIGRATION During Winter (Australian winter) anywhere between 1200-3000 'Humpback Whales' migrate the 5000km (or 3,200 miles) from the southern waters of the Antarctic to the warmer waters of the tropics (Queensland) to give birth to their calves. (note: They don't all migrate at once.) Hervey Bay provides a nice protected area for the Whales to relax and feed their young.

WHALES Humpback Whales are mammals, breath air, grow to around 15 meters (or 50 feet), weigh around 45,000kg (99,000 pounds) and feed their young calfs milk (which is the consistency of yogurt). The young calfs are initially born with no blubber but gain around 45-60 kilo's (or 99-140 pounds) PER DAY (i don't feel so bad)!. The calfs receive 600- liters (or 158 gallons) of milk from their mothers each day!

ENDANGERED Humpbacks are still the third most endangered species of all the big whales, but now their numbers are increasing 13% each year. MAN has been the biggest predator but fortunately they are now protected in most countries (like Australia and the USA). A natural predator is the shark. We saw a shark while out there.....

WHAT A SHOW IN HERVEY BAY It takes time and patience to find the whales but once you spot the pods (in a variety of areas) they put on quite a show! Blowing air out of their spouts, slapping their flukes, breeching, breaking the surface and diving - AWESOME!!!!! It is quite humbling to be in their presence.

DURING OUR TRAVELS NORTH We saw many whales migrating north in our travels. They normally swim 15k (10 miles per hour) but can go up to 24-26k (or 15-17mph). Consequently, we mainly saw them 'passing us by' on the trip north. So, it was fantastic to get to see them in Hevery Bay where they are relaxing and playing.

CRUISING FOOTNOTE: Just so you don't think 'CRUISING' is all fun and games - daily routines take some work (and are done in all types of weather - windy, rainy or sunny). Doing laundry - we need to carry our laundry (and detergent, etc) up to the laundromat and hope no one else is using all the machines - and then go back & forth for the wash/rinse/ dry cycles (and find somewhere to get the 'right change' for the machines). While in a marina - we have to walk up to use the bathrooms. One needs to 'get dressed' to go take a shower using the marina facilities. Today we will need to walk to the local bus stop and go in town to get a loaf of bread. When we come in from sailing - we need to wash down the boat (our home) to get the salt off. This can be a major task depending on where we are and what the water restrictions are - mostly we can only use 'buckets of water' to wash down the boat - because the use of a 'hose' is not permitted. You also have 'fill the water tanks' in order to have water on-board, as well as, plug in the electrical cord to have electricity. There is no 'dishwasher' (machine - just me) or microwave. Just a few examples....

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18/09/2007 | Wyn (wyncon att comcast dott net)
Hi Michelle and Mike,
What fantastic photos of the wales,thanks
for a very informative e-mail,an experience
of a life time, love you Mom.
18/09/2007 | joanne (jodick123 att aol dott com)
Hi Michelle and Mike,
Good to hear from you. The pictures of the whales are beautiful. We are so happy that you are doing something you LOVE!
Dick and Joanne
19/09/2007 | Pat (pat att patduran dott com)
The whale photos are fabulous! I'm going on a swim-with-humpback-whales trip in the Dominican Republic in March and you have definitely whet my appetite. Thank you! Hugs, Pat
Crossed the notorious Wide Bay Bar
Michelle Stowe-Connor
15/09/2007, Fraser Island - Queensland - Australia

Through 'The Great Sandy Straits' (behind Fraser Island) - (Wednesday, 12th of Sept to Saturday, 15th of Sept)

PICTURED: Morning Sunrise before crossing the Wide Bay Bar, Foggy Morning at Gary's Anchorage, Blue Skies behind the Dead Gum Tree, Sunset at Kingfisher

MOOLOOLABA via WIDE BAY BAR to GARY'S ANCHORAGE (Wed/Thursday) After waiting out another rainy session (did I say rain - I mean deluge) the conditions were finally great for crossing the Wide Bay Bar - less than 1M swell at the bar. We departed from Mooloolaba at 6:30PM Wednesday night giving ourselves 12 hours to get to Wide Bay Bar - so we could cross during a 'Flood Tide' and with the 'Morning Light' (6:30AM Thursday) .

It was a long night (but at least it was NOT cold). Initially the sky was clear and the stars were brightly shining but after passing the brightly lit up resort town of Noosa - there were clouds on the horizon and no lights on-shore. It was dark, dark & dark! So, as you sat there alone on 'your shift' It looked like you were sailing into 'black nothingness' - really spooky.... (I could understand how ancient mariners thought they were going to sail off the edge of the earth.) I was grateful for the GPS Plotter which reassured me we were sailing in the right direction and that there was 'life out there'.

We arrived early and had to wait for the morning light. We ensured all the 'hatches were battened down', notified the Coast Guard were about to Cross the Bar and then followed the recommended navigational procedures for crossing the Wide Bay Bar (for those interested I have detailed them at the end of this blog). I'm pleased to report that after all the 'anticipation' about crossing 'The Bar' it was calm and uneventful. (took about 45-50 minutes to cross)

GARY'S ANCHORAGE (Thrus & Friday) We then headed to GA through the morning fog paying very close attention to the channel markers and depths - (this took another 2 1/2 hours). It was really pretty at GA. Mornings started with rising fog, the sounds of many tropical birds, watching the herons, hawks and sea eagles catching fish - but most exiting of all was the tons of sea turtles who stuck their heads up (on long necks) to catch a gasping breath of air before diving down again. We went ashore but did not see any dingos. The sky was that beautiful 'pristine blue'. I love the typical sight of a dead gum tree against the "Australian deep blue sky" (pictured) - it's hard to describe but there is something about the ash gray tree against the blue sky that I find breathtaking.

KINGFISHER (Resort) ANCHORAGE (Friday) Deep Keel Boats need to use the TIDES to navigate through the very shallow Great Sandy Straits. You have to: 1) ensure that you get the tide from the appropriate location - (which constantly changes along the route), 2) use the 'rule of 12ths' to interpolate the correct depth and time for a given location and 3) get the channel markers right (we used both the charts and GPS plotter to ensure we were 'in the channel') - phew! We used all of the above to successfully navigate through the 'known' shallow parts on route to Kingfisher.

We anchored at Kingfisher which is a pretty 'open' anchorage (unlike Gary's anchorage which is very protected). Winds were from the North (not the best for that location) and it is a steep sloping contour - (goes from 2m to 17M in a fairly short distance). So we decided to stay on-board through at least one complete tide change before attempting to go ashore. It was sunny, beautiful and relaxing. Mike fished - a version of either constantly changing the fishing lures or just sitting with a drink and listening to the iPod (I will post a photo in the photo gallery) - by the way we had 'quiche' for diner :) It was a beautiful sunset (pictured). The nite however was bit rolly (due to the winds coming from the north - not to mention the strong currents that are throughout the Great Sandy Straits).

Just as we were ready to depart Kingfisher - a power boat anchored next to us. It was 'Crock One' - as in late Steve Irwin the Crockidile Hunter's 'Crock One'. That was the vessel he was using when he met with his untimely demise - the fatal attack of the stingray. (Note: I will be putting photos from our visit to his famous Zoo in the photo gallery - a picture of 'Crock One' will be included. )

URANGAN We departed for Urangan (sounds like 'Your Rang Gun' I think) on Saturday. This part of the trip was in open water - (although you still need to follow the channel because there are shallow areas everywhere). It was a lovely sunny day and the perfect temperature - a very pleasant relaxing journey. Hardly saw another boat.

Docking at the marina in Urangan was interesting - it is VERY tight - we are literally an arm's length to the Fishing Trawler next to us. Mike did a great job docking in this tight little berth. The berth is a good/bad location. Good if the weather is nice - have a great view out the channel entrance to the Great Sandy Straits - Bad if the weather isn't good because we aren't protected! Mike decided to take advantage of the 'good view' and set up folding chairs on the dock facing the channel entrance - we sat and had an evening drink while watching and waving to all the tourist boats coming in for the day. I couldn't believe Mike actually put the chairs out there on the dock - I don't think I have laughed this hard in a long time. I'm sorry we didn't get a picture of us sitting there......

Urangan is a quite a busy tourist area for wale watching and trips to Fraser Island. We plan to do some sightseeing while here.

NAVIGATION DETAILS Guidelines for crossing the Wide Bay Bar (Note: Chart has identified 3 Waypoints (WP) for you)

From South Steer a course of 340(T) with Double Island Pt Lt astern (until Lt is approx 8nm distance astern of you) to WP1

You should see directional light Isophase 4 seconds (day)- situated one mile north of Hook Point on Fraser Island Note: DO NOT PROCEED IF YOU HAVE NOT POSITIVELY IDENTIFIED THE LIGHT

From WP1 @ 25 47.62S 153 08.15E Steer course 296(T) for a Distance of 2.05NM to WP2 (approx 25-30minutes @ 4-5kts)

You should see Inskip Leads (Isophase 2 seconds on rear lead) bearing 243(T) (at this point you are fully committed so there is not turning back)

From WP2 @ 25 47.62S 153 06.07E Steer course 243(T) for a Distance of 1.2NM to WP3 (approx 15-20minutes @ 4-5kts)

From WP3 @ 25 48.21S 153 04.81E Steer course 270(T) You should be in open water with Bouy T1 (green) off your port bow

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16/09/2007 | Wyn (wyHncon att comcast dott net)
Hi,
Great blog felt I was there with you, enjoyed
the photos. Love Wyn.
16/09/2007 | shelly (jumajath att comcast dott net)
Congratulations on making it to your next destination safely. great pics, looking forward to more. (?) Why do you use True for compass readings and we use magnetic here? just curious. I've seen pictures of Fraser Island - looks beautiful.
16/09/2007 | Michelle (msconnor att mac dott com)
Shelly - here's a short answer to you question:

You plot in TRUE on a Chart
You then apply the VARIATION for that area which gives MAGNETIC
You would then apply any DEVIATION for your compass which would then give you COMPASS
True 296(T)
Variation 10E (for local area)
Magnetic 286 (M)
Deviation 0 (applies to your own boats Compass)
Compass 286 (C)
17/09/2007 | Elena Pont (barcelona) (helenbridge00 att hotmail dott com)
I have enjoyed the reading and envy the day time navigation . I don't like sailing in the dark . I have a strange feeling . I had never thought about it, but maybe it really is the fear to sail off the edge of the earth. regards

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