12/24/2008

16 - 21 Dec 08
Miami Beach, FL
Anchored north of Belle Island
Trip: 78nm, Total: 1103nm, Engine: 2070hrs


Seabbatical 1 and Galena departed Lake Worth, FL, at about 1600hrs on 15 Dec.

The forecast was for east winds, 10-15kts, seas 2-4 ft. We were heading south so this sounded like a good window to make the move. Besides, we were all ready to go. I had hit the West Marine and the Publix so what else was there?

Galena was rafted up to Seabbatical, hanging off of her hook. The winds were very light at the time we left (east at 5 kts). Michelle and Clark dropped my lines and I drifted away.

Galena and Seabbatical 1 in Lake Worth, FL

I motored south down the ICW and around Peanut Island. As I lined up with the inlet Galena picked up the swell. She started that long, loping stride that says, "Ocean!"

The tide was in full ebb and the wind was out of the east. You sailors out there know what that means! I was soon pounding into 4-6 ft waves as I forced my way out between the jetties. Galena was launching fully 1/3 of her length into the air as she drove eastward toward the open sea. I was hanging on to the tiller with one hand and the boom gallows with the other. I could see some small fishing boats a little way to the south of the jetty and they were riding fairly quietly. So this was just the confusion of the outbound tide and the inbound wind/waves. Looking astern I could see Seabbatical 1 having the same trouble getting out of the inlet.

While glancing back at Seabbatical, I suddenly realized that that shape in the background was actually an outbound ship! I had drifted to the left side of the inlet so I turned sharply to starboard to get out of the way. Seabbatical 1 did the same. Now I was crabbing across these waves. This caused Galena to roll so badly that I had to actually sit down. I can usually stand at the helm in just about any seas but this was too much. I had just made it to the starboard side of the channel when the ship went streaming past me close aboard.

Finally I was able to turn south, out of the channel and out of the current. Now the waves were almost on Galena's port beam. I scampered to the mast and raised the main to a double reef plus the staysail. The wind, forecast to be out of east was actually out of the southeast. So my course to the south had me pounding into 4-ft seas.

With sails up Galena's motion steadied quite a bit. By the time I was a couple of miles from the Lake Worth inlet the seas were stable; less confused. The waves were actually almost from the east, but the wind was definitely from the south east. I shook out a reef and cut the engine. Then I raised the yankee jib. Then I shook out the final reef. Galena settled into a fast 6.5 kt run down the coast. The seas were not too bad at about 4-ft. Mostly on the beam, they caused Galena to just rise and fall; the sails keeping her steadily heeled over to about 20 degrees. Harvey, the Aries wind vane, took over the helm and I settled in for the long night.

Since we were only about a mile or so off shore (had to stay inside the Gulf Stream, ya know) the cell phone worked. I chatted a bit with family and friends and even text messaged a bit. With my Verizon Air Card I checked the weather updates and found nothing new.

Throughout the night I kept in touch with Seabbatical 1. They have a Bavaria 38, I think, and it's a lot faster than Galena. They were soon a few miles ahead of me. But throughout the night I could usually see their stern light on the horizon. The initial ride out and the wave action once we got on our southbound course was a bit much for Clark. He is apparently prone to seasickness and these seas were just about perfect for brining that out. When he was on the helm of Seabbatical I would poke at him a bit by telling him I was down below making a sandwich and brewing coffee, or heating up some soup. Next time I called it would be Michelle at the helm and on the radio.

The view forward at night

Most of the ride south was uneventful. There were a couple of moments when situations came up that, well, woke me up a bit. At one point I noticed that I was catching up with Seabbatical 1. I switched on the radar to check the range and noticed a very large blip off the starboard beam. A quick look with the binoculars and, sure enough, there was a tug pushing a barge coming out of Port Everglades. They were heading right for Seabbatical. I called and asked Michelle, "By the way, you see that barge coming at you from the shore, right?" She hadn't. But then the tug turned south before it got to her track and accellerated away. By the time it crossed Seabbatical's bow it was a couple miles ahead of her.

As we approached Miami's Government Cut, ships started to appear all across the horizon. They approached from astern, abeam and ahead. Add to that the several that were anchored out and the few fishing boats roaming around and you have a lot of lights to keep track of.

We arrived at the inlet an hour or so before dawn. Seabbatical was still not keen on entering the busy harbor in darkness and I didn't want to leave them out there alone. So we circled around till there was a bit of light. I called Clark and said, "As soon as you're ready, say the word and we'll head in." He said, "I'm ready now!" He was still feeling very sick and just wanted this voyage to end. So we headed over to the channel and into the inlet. By the time we were inside the jetty the sun was rising.

Seabbatical 1 following me into Government Cut, Miami, FL

I motored over to the north side of Belle Island off Miami Beach. As I motored through the anchorage I saw a couple of old friends. Dave and Jan on s/v Siggy's Dancer and Bob and Gail on s/v Star. Both of whom I knew from last year's trip.

My route into Miami

I put Galena to bed and then did the same for myself. Once I had had some sleep, I went to town with Clark and Mitch. After a little walking around we headed back to the boats. We were all still pretty tired from the overnight run. I tried to watch a movie but I kept falling asleep.

The problem with going to bed at 7pm is that you're up at 3am.

On the 17th Star stopped by to say, 'Hi' and 'Bye.' They were headed out. So was Siggy's Dancer. In fact most of the seven boats in the anchorage left on the 17th. Seabbatical repositioned themselves a little closer to the bridge. Then we went to town and found what came to be know as 'The Cheap Beer Place.' Zekes, 625 Lincoln st. $4 beers, a choice of over 150 different beers. And right on the main 'mall' of Lincoln steet. People watching capital of Miami Beach. We sat there for a bit and a guy sat down at an adjacent table. I looked at him and thought he looked familiar. He smiled and said, "Hi, Bill." It was Toby of s/v Cariba! I asked where Donna was, "Shopping." I introduced him and then them to Clark and Mitch. We all sat around drinking beer and making comments about the people walking by. Great fun.

I had heard of a good tattoo parlor down the road and wanted to check it out. I had a picture of a mermaid hanging in Galena. I really liked the pose. I had been thinking about getting her put on my arm as a second tattoo. She needed a little bit of a redraw since the picture I had was wide, not tall. So I printed out the picture and went looking for an artist. I ended up at Tattoo's by Lou, one of, if not the, oldest tattoo joints in Miami Beach. I talked with Andre and showed him what I had and what I wanted. We had a good chat and I made an appointment for the next day.

The picture I have on my bulkhead is by Robert Kline, it's named 'Penny.' (No, not named after you, nelpie.. but now that I think about it...)

Robert Kline's 'Penny'

And this is what Andre did with it to make it fit on my arm and to make it his own:

My new tattoo

It think it nicely complements my other tattoo that I got back in December of 2006.

My other tattoo

Donna and Toby of s/v Cariba happened by while I was getting my tattoo and stopped in to chat. The next day Donna got a new tattoo, too. Her's is of a purple Lotus flower and an Ohm symbol. She was very bold and has the tattoo put on her lower arm, inside, just below the elbow. Very sexy.

On the 20th I went over to s/v Last Dance, a big cat, for happy hour. Mike and Susan were very happy to show us their boat. It was HUGE! I met a few other cruisers in the anchorage, including Micheal and Mariaeleese (s/v Panthalassa); a very interesting couple.

Mike and The gang having sundowners aboard Last Dance

Micheal and Mariaeleece and, of course, Michelle

21 Dec 08
Key Biscayne, FL
Trip: 10nm, Total: 1113 nm, Engine: 2072 hrs


About noon on the 21st I departed Miami Beach and headed over toward Key Biscayne to stage for the two-leg run to Marathon. Sad goodbyes all around and I was off. I anchored alone just in the lee of the island, at the southwest corner. I was considering going down the ICW to Marathon. The weather forecast called for 20kt winds on the night of the 22nd. They were to clock around to the east, from the north. I was planning on stopping for the night at Rodriguez Key and if the winds went east I would be out there without much protection. I was really worried about that. But then I figured, what the hell.

My route to the staging area at Key Biscayne

At dawn on the 22nd I headed out the cut and into Hawk Channel. The wind built until it was a steady 15kts from north. My course put the wind just to the starboard of dead astern. Galena rode level and calmly in 2-ft waves on the stern. I had the main up and the staysail. The staysail was blanked by the main most of the day. But Galena still managed a steady 6+ kts all day long.

Departing Miami Beach

22 Dec 08
Rodriguez Key, FL (N 25° 02.53' W 080° 27.69')
Trip: 47nm, Total: 1160 nm, Engine: 2074 hrs


I arrived at Rodriguez Key at 1500hrs and anchored in the lee (southwest corner). The wind was still up to 15 but the water was just a light chop. The island being upwind of me made the waves nicely confused so Galena just sat there, fairly quietly.

But by 0300 the wind was up to a steady 20kts and had, as predicted, clocked to the east. Galena started bouncing around pretty good. Enough to wake me up. And by 0400 she was galloping in 2ft waves and 25kts of wind as the wind generator whined and put out a steady 20 amps! So I got up and turned on some lights and played on the computer. Nothing like a lot of wind to make a lot of electricity.

23 Dec 08
Marathon, FL
Trip: 47nm, Total: 1211 nm, Engine: 2075 hrs


I went back to sleep for a bit. When the alarm went off at 0630hrs I was ready to get up. I did the usual morning stuff including brewing a pot of coffee. I hauled up the anchor short and raised a double-reefed main. Then finished weighing anchor.

Galena swung fast to leeward once the anchor broke free. So quickly was she underway that I had to let the anchor dangle until I had her settled in on her course. Then I went forward and catted the anchor down. Galena was doing 6+ kts and riding the 5-ft waves well. Still, I was out there on the bowsprit securing the anchor with nothing holding me to the ship but my right hand. Stupid of me. But I kept telling myself that the harness is not a 'safety harness' it's a 'storm harness.' You'll never learn to stay on the boat is you always tether yourself to her. OK. So that's not a smart thing. And I know all the old saws about, "There are old sailors and there are bold sailors; but there are not old bold sailors." But Standing out there on the bowsprit, pulling the anchor home, while Galena did almost 7-kts in rough seas was exhilarating to say the least.

Hawk channel in the morning

I love the sounds Galena makes as she rushes through the water. Each speed has it's own unique sounds. At about 4 kts she starts to make a frothing bow wave that makes that first whooshing sound. Then at 6 kts the water sluicing past the rudder sounds off. The sound is a very happy sound. At 7 kts she seems to rise up out of the water just a bit and all down her sides the water noisily rushes as she strains and twists. As if she is saying, "That's enough!"

All day on the 23rd she was running before the wind. All day long she was making over 6 kts, Sometimes sh e was surfing down waves at over 8 kts (SOG). I'd get pushed out of the way by the tiller as Harvey tried to keep her bows from broaching around. The rudder, when hard over like that, is being pulled through the water almost sideways; water bubbling and frothing about at the stern. Then her bow would settle back on course; Harvey would trim the rudder amidships. Everything would quiet down for a moment.

Here's a short video clip of what I just described. I'm standing at the mast looking aft, then around. Oh, and the wind generator is actually spinning like mad. It's just the frame rate of the camera that makes it look like it's stopping and slowing. If you look closely you can see the tiller pull hard to port as Galena tries to broach down a wave.

This clip, while only about a minute long, is 15MB in size so it may take a while to download.














Oh, and you can double-click on the image to make it full screen.

For eight hours Galena strode toward Marathon, FL. I sat there in the cockpit reading a book (Alexander Kent, sort of like Patrick O'Brian, but very good in his own right). When Galena would be pushed by the big six-footers everything would run to the starboard, leeward, side of the cockpit. My coffee cup would topple over; the map would fall into the footwell. Binoculars would rush to the leeward gunnell. In just a moment everything would be out of reach and covered with coffee.

This is what my cockpit looks like.

This is what my cockpit looks like while cruising.
Lots of junk laying around the deck.

The wind was blowing at 20 kts with gusts to 30 kts out of the east. My course was southwest. The wind was just to the port of directly astern. All day I kept measuring the apparent wind. It always measured at about 15 kts apparent, 20 kts true.
I didn't appreciate how hard the wind was blowing until, just south of Boot Key Harbor entrance I turned to windward to drop the mainsail. Suddenly there was wind every where and it was blowing very, very hard!

I called the marina and asked about a mooring. They said they had plenty but couldn't assign me one until I was right there in the mooring field. So I told them I'd lie to anchor until morning. There were squalls in the offing and the wind was picking up even more. Picking up a mooring pendant is hard under the best of condition. But when one is single-handing and motoring into a 20 kt wind, things get very dicey. I can't afford to spin around and bump into a million dollar yacht.

Oh, "Where in the world is Marathon?" you might be asking. It's in the Florida Keys part way down toward Key West.

Marathon, in relation to Miami and Key west.
The Blue line is the route toward Nassau.

Tomorrow I'll go inside the harbor and grab a mooring.

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12/16/2008

30 Nov 08, Sunday
Charleston, SC

I found an error in a "how-to" book on celestial navigation. That might explain why, sometimes, I'm off by 50 miles or so. Next time I'm in sight of a clear horizon I'll see if my new understanding of the procedures will let me develop fixes that are a little closer to reality.


By 1700 the wind was slowly diminishing. but I still had rain and more wind that was comfortable when sitting at anchor. As such I was stuck on board Galena all day. Which is actually OK since each day I sit aboard I 'accrue' spending money.

Sad day today: I seem to have lost my MP3 player. It's a nice 30GB unit that I've had for quite a while. I had about 5000 cuts of my favorite music on it and now I can't find it. The last time I saw it was when I took it with me to do laundry. I fear I might have left it there, or dropped it out of my jacket pocket at the local dock bar. This really bums me out. I listen to that thing all the time. I've torn the boat apart and I simply can't find it. If I have to replace it I'll get a couple of cheap, small capacity players.

01 Dec 08, Monday

The cold front passed through and the barometer is at 1014 mb and up on the tick. That's up from a low of 1003mb yesterday. Winds are still 15-20 gusting to 30 out of the west. That's good for the batteries. The wind generator is kicking butt. The batteries are at only -38 Ah (capacity is 320 Ah). The temperature is noticeably down. At 0930 the temp was 48°. That's down from 60° yesterday.

I don't have a mast-mounted anemometer. But my wind generator gives me a good feel for the wind speed. Right now it's holding at a steady 7 amps output. That equals about 10-15 kts of wind. The wind has veered north of west and that's a good sign for departure tomorrow.

04 Dec 08
Fernandina Beach, FL
Trip: 160nm, Total: 752nm, Eng: 2012 hrs


I departed Charleston, SC, on 02 Dec a little before dawn. My plan was not well synched with the tidal currents in the harbor. Sunrise wasn't until about 0630, so I was going to depart about 30 minutes ahead of that and make it out to sea just after light.

But low tide was 0415 and the current was lagging by 1:40. I thought I could make it out of the harbor during slack tide at the latest. But I was a bit late on that.

When I awoke at 0500 two of the boats that were anchored around me had already left. They were smarter than I. I hurried through the departure procedures of: Dink on deck, sail covers off, ensure equipment secure, charts ready, engine on, lights on, anchor up.

As I left Charleston anchorage there was a drizzle of rain and absolutely no wind. I was under way by 0550hrs.

As I approached the main inlet channel a container ship crossed in front of me. As I was making my way out of the main channel and between the jetties toward open sea, another container ship passed me outbound. Charleston is a very busy port. The outbound ship was accelerating and make a considerable wake as she went by about 150 yds off my port side.

As I said, I was a little behind on the tides. As I was heading out to sea I could make only 5.1 kts compared to my usual 5.7kts. That's not bad. I've motored into currents where Galena could only make 3.5 kts! So I was only off by about 30 or 40 minutes on the tidal current thing. Still, I should have left port an hour earlier.

By 0745hrs I had all sails up and the engine secured and I was making a comfy 5.0 kts on my rhomb line course toward St Mary's inlet.

At 0815 the air temperature was a balmy 47° and winds were west at 9kts (apparent) while Galena held her course of 220°.

The temperature slowly came up to 55° while the winds stayed westerly and built to about 15-20kts with gusts to 30kts. The promised wind shift to the northwest never came.

Around noon Galena was galloping along into 3ft seas and heeled over about 25°. That made for a generally uncomfortable ride. Well, actually just tiresome, really.

The a 'sustained gust' came along that really got my attention. The gust started normally: increasing wind, Galena heads up a bit, Harvey (the Aries wind vane) catches the change and swings the helm to windward, Galena obeys and falls off a bit. heeling over a bit more. But this time the wind continued to build. Galena continued to heel... and heeled yet more. I held on and looked around suddenly a bit concerned. Within about 15 seconds the port rail was under water. Then it was a full foot under water. Green water was rushing down the side decks and into the cockpit. And Galena still continued to heel as the wind gust increased to an easy 45 kts! I lunged over the tiller (which was by now full to windward and pulled the mainsheet free on it's jam cleat. As the sheet ran out I pushed my full weight against the tiller, trying to overpower Harvey and push the helm down to allow Galena to head up. After another 5 or 10 seconds, she did just that. In another 5 seconds Galena slowed and stalled with her bows to windward; mainsail flagging in the diminishing wind; water swirling in the cockpit and filling the side deck; and me draped over the tiller still wondering, "What the hell was that?" I swear I've never seen Galena heeled over that far. I've seen her dip over to about 45° before. But this was way, way past that. Scared the hell out of me.

OK. I can take a hint. I put a reef in the main and left both head sails up. That reduced her angle of heel to about 15° and both Galena and I were a lot happier. He speed went from 6.7 kts down to 6.3 kts. Considering my hull-speed is 7.2, that's still very respectable. Galena was still galloping along, punching into 4' waves every 5-seconds or so. But the ride was a lot more comfortable. I believe I heard her sigh a 'thanks' (or was that more of a 'it's about time!').

I went below and everything that wasn't nailed down was over on the port side of the cabin. Things were even up on the shelf on the port side that I know were over on the shelf on the starboard side a few minutes ago. That's straight across the cabin! I spent some time cleaning up below before I went back on deck.

About 1630hrs I noted a freighter heading directly for me off my port quarter. I think she was heading for Savannah, GA. I was between her and her port. So I turned sharply to port to cut across her bow and get out of her way. I had moved about a half mile east and was back on course when the ship turned to starboard and crossed my stern. She was about 1/4 mile away when she passed me. But on the ocean, that's very, very close.

At 1700 I went below to use the head. I found water everywhere. I had left the sea cock for the sink open. The pounding into the waves had been forcing water up the sink drain and all the way up to the overhead. everything was soaked with sea water. Another mess to clean up. I closed the sea cock and mopped up the water. With the constant heel to port the water was all piled up against the cabinets. At least it was clean water.

By 1800 the wind was definitely north of west and steady at 20kts. Galena was holding at just under 7kts.

I noticed that my stern light was burned out. Didn't I replace that just before I left on this trip? The stern light is mounted on the wind generator pole which in turn is mounted on the aft end of the boomkin which puts it about 3' off Galena's stern. Standing out there with a screwdriver removing the lens and replacing a bulb is easy in a marina. Not so much when Galena is galloping along at hull speed through choppy seas and fading light. I should really replace the stern light with LED's as I have the sidelights.

The crescent moon is still close to Venus and Jupiter... pretty. A few hours later they set and I'm left with only Galena's stern light. I can see the phosphorescence of her wake fading into the distance behind me. At least there's some indication of progress.

Occasionally I'm surprised by the ghostly sight of a sea gull swooping through the lighted area astern.

Sometime after midnight I was watching the loom of Savannah drift astern; 30 miles from shore and I can still see civilization.

I spent a lot of time below after midnight. I was tiring of the chill of the wind and the rough motion. The wind was biting through all that I had on, which was considerable. I was wearing: a T-shirt, a sweat shirt, a hooded sweat jacket, foul-weather jacket, sweat pants, jeans, bibbed foulie pants, gloves, wool watch cap, the hood from the sweat jacket, and the hood from the foulies. All of that and I'm still cold. So I stay below between lookouts. I set the egg timer for 15 minutes. It rings and I go up the ladder and take a quick look around. Then I do a very slow scan of the horizon with the binoculars. That takes a good five minutes. Then I go below and set the timer again. Sometimes I doze standing at the ladder. Sometimes I sit down and close my eyes. Always weary of falling asleep and missing my timer's alarm. So I don't want to get too comfortable.

I'm just resting my eyes...

The intrepid sailor ready to climb up for a look around

By 0500 the wind was down to 5kts or less and had clocked around to the stern. So I fired up the engine and motorsailed the rest of the way in.

I arrived at the St Mary's inlet at about 0930hrs 3 Dec. I had to go around a couple of tugs that were dragging a 3/4-mile section of dredge pipe into the harbor.

The last time I was at Fernandina Beach the anchorage was packed with cruisers. Today there were... none!

So I anchored in 30-ft of water and went to sleep.

About 1800 on 3 Dec I awoke, got cleaned up, ate dinner, and went to town. I spent a few hours in the Palace Saloon. They bill this place as the oldest bar in Florida. Not to be confused with the Tradewinds Bar in St Augustine which is billed as the "oldest bar in the oldest city" in Florida.

The Palace

I was invited to come back on Friday to attend a ladies 51st birthday. But at the time I was not planning on staying that long.

I spent all day on the 4th on Galena just relaxing. I have to change the oil and locate that vibration I keep feeling when the engine is running. I fear it may be the prop shaft or engine mounts. When I fear a big problem, I tend not to look for it. I procrastinate the investigation.

It was cold in the morning. But my little propane heater wouldn't light. The thing would come one, but when I let go of the "Light-the-pilot" position the pilot light would go out. I took it apart and found there was a wire that had come off a spade connector. Who know there was anything electronic in something like this?

My little camp heater

I actually sat in the sun in the cockpit in just a T-shirt. This is the first time I've been warm since that day in the Alligator river back in Virginia.

I went online and updated the EPIRB registration info. It was too early to go to bed and too late to head in to town. Oh, I know: popcorn and a movie.

05 Dec 08
Still at Fernandina Beach, FL

Happiness and Joy! I found my lost MP3 player! It was hiding in a pile of folded-up clean clothing in a drawer. I had apparently placed it in the stack when I left the laundry for the trip back to Galena. And it had stayed there when I transferred the stack of clothes to the drawer.

I changed the oil (but not the filter). The mounts are OK and the shaft and coupler look fine. It occurs to me that Harvey (the wind vane) may be the cause of the vibration. I think back and realize that, yes, I had his servo-rudder down in the prop-wash whenever I noticed the vibration. That would do it. I'll leave him up and see if the vibration disappears. [Later Note: Yep, that was it.]

A week ago I think I mentioned my sore arm. Sometime about a month ago I had pulled a tendon or something just below the elbow of my right arm. The result was that I couldn't really grip anything with my right hand. No grip to speak of at all. Especially with my arm fully extended. Lots of pain at the tendons just below my elbow.

So I'd been favoring it; trying to let it rest. It was not getting better. So the other day I thought, "The hell with it." I've been working the hell out of it for the last couple of days and as a result it is a lot better. So I've been flexing and extending and lifting and pulling with the right arm and, yeah, it's getting a lot better. Still a lot of pain when I grip something with my arm extended, but it's better than it's been in a month.

06 Dec 08
St Augustine, FL
Trip 56nm, Total 808nm, Engine 2024 hrs

I was up at 0530 and was ready to leave Fernandina Beach by 0600. I had a breakfast of oatmeal and coffee and was off as soon as I could see the unlit buoys marking the channel.

there was a nice northerly breeze when I left so I raised the staysail after I got the anchor up. By then it was 0705: just light enough.

I had some trouble finding the channel as I motored south. For the first hour or so I was all over the place looking for deep water. I get a little concerned when the depth goes less than 8'.

View from the foredeck

I noted a lot of white smoke/steam coming from Galena's exhaust. It might be the cool air, or it might be something more serious. It might be a blockage in the cooling system. See? I always find something to worry about. I'll check the strainer and head exchanger when I get to St Augustine.

If I ran the engine over the cruise RMP of 2800 I saw a lot of steam. If I kept it down, not so much. The air temp was 60° but the humidity was high. So it may be just normal condensation of the exhaust.

By noon it looked like I might actually make it all the way to St Augustine. The currents had been favorable most of the way and I was making over 6kts all day. Last year I had to stop in the St Johns river for the night. This year I think I'll make it all the way.

There was a bit of rain at noon with a bit of wind. That put a bit of a damper on my mood.

Anyway, I arrived at the St Augustine anchorage at 1700hrs; a full 30 minutes before sunset The area to the north and west of the bridge was full of boats. so I anchored on the north east shore.

I went to town and had a beer at the Trade Winds bar. I returned home at 2100hrs to be aboard at the change of the tidal current. The current here is severe and I wanted to be sure my hook didn't trip. The first night at anchor is always a bit of a hassle.

07 Dec 08

I was up at 0800 and saw that many of the boats on the western shore were gone already. So I hauled anchor and moved Galena over to that shore. It's closer to the dinghy dock. I ended up a little too close to s/v Flamingo (a boat I've seen on this trip in years past, but have never talked to). But the next day they were gone.

Today was task day:

Grease the windlass. When I drop the anchor I use the clutch on the windlass to control the chain as it runs out. Lately it's been grabbing when I tighten the clutch. No gentle slowing down of the chain. Just a sudden stop. That's hard on everything. So I need to take the gypsy off and grease it up.

Clean inspect and grease the winches. They have been sounding and acting like there's a broken spring in them for the past month. I usually service them once a year. But missed this year's inspection. So I'll do it while I have the grease out for the windlass.

Clean the raw water strainer and engine heat exchanger. I'm concerned about that steam I've been seeing coming from the exhaust.

I accomplished all the above. There was nothing wrong with the winches. But I found some clogging of the strainer. So that should make everything better.

Servicing the winches

I walked around town until 1600 and then came home for dinner.

Lights in the town square

08 Dec 08
s/v Jennie Marie anchored nearby. I had met him (John) on my first trip into George Town, Exuma. He and I went to look for the Chat 'n Chill just after we dropped the anchor there. Much to the disapproval of Jane, as I recall.

09 Dec 08
Went to the post office and mailed a couple of letters. I transferred fuel from port to starboard tanks. I still have about 60-gallons of fuel on-board. I'm averaging 0.4 gal/hr.

On the way in to the dock the dinghy motor sputtered a bit. It sounded like there might be water in the carb again. And I didn't have any tools with me to take it about and drain it out. There's a hardware store right next to the post office. There I bought a cheap imitation Leatherman tool for $5. When I got back to the dinghy I drained the carb float bowl and hand no problem heading back to Galena.

Later in the evening, after dark, I decided I should make a water run. I had just used the last of the water in the forward tank. That means I had about 2-weeks of water left. I'm only 5-minutes from the dinghy dock here. I could fill the empty tank with two runs to the dock (I have 3ea 5-gal water jugs available for transporting water). So off I went. I went to the dock, filled my jugs, started back and the engine died. The current was running north, pushing me toward the construction barges that were around the Bridge of Lyons (which is being rebuilt). With all the construction lights in my eyes all I could see was this dark wall of the side of the barge. I was drifting toward it quite fast. Now all cruisers know that barges are very bad things to get close to. I felt a bit of panic as I saw myself being swept under the barge. That was silly of course. I'm in a dinghy. The current is only about 1.5 kts. And the barge is moored. Still I hit the side of the barge hard. I grabbed a tire/fender and tied the dink's painter to it.

I pulled out my trusty tool and drained the carb bowl again. No good. It will not start. There are construction guys working on the barge who don't even notice my down there. I suddenly had this vision of the tug starting up and taking the barge away with me tide to it. That would not be good.

Then I noticed a sucking sound when I squeezed the priming bulb on the fuel line. There was a crack in the hose near the coupling that fit it to the fuel tank. OK. I got it. The engine was sucking air instead of fuel.

So I used the leatherman-like tool to take the hose off the connector and cut off the bad bit of hose. Then I reattached the hose and, presto!, the engine fired right up.

I finish the water run and make another without incident. Now I have full water tanks.

10 Dec 08, Wednesday
Daytona Beach, FL ICW milepost 830.7
Trip: 46nm, Total: 854nm, Engine: 2033hrs

Anchored here for the night. The weather was crappy again. Rather than wait for a good window to go offshore from St Augustine, I decided to just drive down the ditch.

Aside from the weather, nothing of interest. I just stand there driving down the ditch all day.

Me in my standard pose as I motor down the ICW.... Boring.

11 Dec 08,
Titusville, FL,
Trip: 43nm, Total: 898nm, Eng: 2042hrs

I left Daytona Beach in high winds out of the east. The forecast was promising heavy rain, winds gusting to over 30kts, and the possibility of tornados. I had anchored in an open anchorage and thought it might be better to be underway than sitting at anchor. I was wrong.

At first the trip was just slow. Motoring into wind and waves has never been Galena's forte. But it was 71° and fairly comfortable.

The ICW around Ponce de Leone inlet is always shoaling. But just now it wasn't so bad. I saw no less than 13' MLW.

Then at 1245hrs the front hit. I saw the squall line coming toward me. I saw the wind whipping up the water and the rain slanting down. I zipped up my foul weather jacket. It hit. And I mean 'Hit.' The rain was horizontal and the wind was up to 40 kts on the beam. Galena slowed quite a bit. Then I heard a funny sound astern. I looked back to see my dinghy flying upside-down on her painter. All of her contents were streaming away in my wake. The fuel tank, the oars, life preserver, handle extension, line, et al. Luckily I didn't have the engine on it. I slowed Galena to an idle and pulled the dink to her leeward hip. I just had to lift the bow a bit and she flipped right-side up. But all the stuff that was inside was already being blown out of channel and out of my reach; as well as a quarter of a mile behind me!

I was bummed!

A new fuel tank would cost more than I wanted to spend. And oars! those things were expensive! Oh, and don't forget that I'm stranded on board Galena now unless I go into a marina. And that's expensive, too.

As the front passed, and it passed in about 20 minutes, the wind veered to the northwest. With the wind abaft the beam I could make some good time and would arrive at Titusville before dark.

The rest of the trip was uneventful by comparison. I was completely soaked, I was cold and miserable. The temperature dropped over 10° in those 20 minutes of front passage.

I arrived at Titusville and anchored in 8-ft of water off the town marina there.

After I hand dried off and cleaned up I "MacGyvered" a fuel can for the dinghy motor out of a coffee can.

Cut off the connector and ran hose through lid

Finished fuel tank

With the fuel tank problem solved I went to shore to visit with my good friends from the Bahamas, Michelle and Clark (s/v Seabbatical 1). They were there fitting out their boat for the winter trip south. They had planned on leaving in the next day or so.

Michelle and Clark of s/v Seabbatical 1

They trucked me around town and we had a wonderful dinner courtesy of Michelle. The next day Clark scored a used fuel tank for me for ten bucks. We all went out for dinner and had a lovely evening.

I met Scott Caskey the owner of s/v Marianne, a Westsail 32 #221. We all went out for drinks

Clark, Scott, and me, doing what sailors do best

The next day we took off down the IcW together. Actually, I took off and then they caught up. Everyone motors faster than poor old Galena.

Seabbatical 1 passing me, quickly

13 Dec 08
Melbourne, FL, ICW milepost 920
Trip: 34nm, Total 937nm, Eng: 2048hrs

Just a boring drive down the ICW. Not that I'm complaining you understand.
Clark was talking to me about going to Marathon, FL. I was telling him about wanting to go to Key West for New Years. He said the mooring balls in Marathon are cheap and there are a lot of them. OK. I'm thinking that would be a good idea. I can go to Miami, spend a few days hanging out there. And then a two-day run down the keys to Marathon. Leave Galena there and take a bus to Key West for New Years. Then from Marathon I can make the crossing to the Bahama Banks and on to Nassau. Sounding like a plan.

I saw an old ship anchored off the side of the ICW. It was named "Princess Grace." Must be someone's pet project. I Googled it but couldn't find out anything.

The motor Vessel Princess Grace

14 Dec 08, Sunday
Ft Pierce, FL (south of Causeway Is) ICW 966
Trip: 44nm, Total: 980nm, Eng: 2056hrs

I had a rough (bouncy) and windy (20kt) night at Melbourne. I got up at 2300hrs to put the dink on deck since it was really not happy in the water. It was bouncing around and jerking at the painter like it was trying to get away! So I hoisted it up. I tied a short light line from it's stern to a stanchion before I lifted it out of the water. That way the wind couldn't snatch it away from me and fly it like a kite. Actually there wasn't much trouble getting it secured on deck.

I had picked an anchorage up close to a bridge abutment. As a result I had the wind waves hitting me from the southeast, and reflected waves from the bridge abutment hitting me from the northeast. Very rough place. Next time I'll move down a mile or so to be away from the bridge.

When I left Melbourne at 0700 I could only make 5.2 kts into the wind, waves and current. There was a serious tidal current running out of Ft Pierce inlet. I went from 7 kts to 3.5 as I passed the inlet. Then I was set hard to starboard as I passed under the bridge. Then, as I turned into the anchorage here I was set very hard to starboard. So much so that I was crabbing at about 30° to hold a course.

15 Dec 08, Monday
Lake Worth, FL (north end of the lake)
Trip: 45nm, Total: 1025nm, Engine: 2065hrs.

I'm anchored once again at the north end of Lake Worth. Actually I'm rafted up with Seabbatical 1. There's no wind to speak of so I thought it would be nice to raft-up. Clark came in and found a spot. Then I motored up and we were all tied up in no time.

This part of Florida has some very nice houses along the waterway

This one had an interesting bit of art in the lawn p

The trip here was mostly uneventful, except that it was actually hot outside. Almost 80° out there. And there were more than the usual number of dolphins playing around Galena as I motored along

Dolphin riding my bow wave

After naps and cleaning up a bit we had a wonderful dinner aboard Seabbatical 1 again. I taught them how to play dominoes. After my second sippy-cup it was time to call it a night.

This morning I started working on this blog entry. Clark and I were talking about leaving here tomorrow. But the window is expanding (for a change). We will probably leave for an outside run to Miami this afternoon.

We all walked down to West Marine where I bought a paddle to replace the dinghy oars that I lost the other day. Then a stop a Publix for a few stores. I bought some junk food for the overnight trip tonight. right now there is absolutely no wind. Forecast is for 10-15 kts east wind. We'll see. We might end up motoring all the way there. We'll have to go slowly to make it there after morning. Clark is not keen on going into Miami at night. I've done it before and wouldn't mind. But I understand his hesitation.

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11/30/2008

..My teeth, that is. It's COLD here.

18 - 19 Nov 08
Anchored in Town Creek,
Beaufort, NC

I'm still just enjoying Beaufort. No real hurry to get underway. But, man, I've got to get further south! We have very high winds today (20-25 kts with gusts over 30) and it's quite cold (high of 47 today). We even had snow furies! Snow hasn't hit my face in years and here I am standing in snow. This is just so wrong!

I had both the Bruce and the CQR anchors out. The CQR was holding fine but I was swinging too close to the marina docks. So I motored up a bit and dropped the Bruce. In this wind, the Bruce dragged until I came back onto the CQR again. So I'm close to the dock, but holding well on two anchors. s/v Cheeseburger in Paradise also dragged about 100 yds. He had the room to do it but that's never a good feeling.

One of the guys I had met at the Handlebar bar was Ray. He's one of those guys who, although he's 74 years old, can still put the fear of God into you. He was for 22-years a Navy Seal. He said, "Bill, I love doing only two things: Drinking and Fucking! And I've got about 1 good minute in me for either one." You got to love that attitude.

On the 19th I had one of my coldest nights aboard: 37°
Rain and winds in the 20-25 kt range again. Ron aboard Lastdance even saw gusts to 37 on his instruments. The CQR is holding, but I'm way too close to the marina dock. I'm considering moving a bit. But that anchor is holding so well I'd hate to haul it and reset it.

I think I'll be departing on Thursday 20 Nov. The wind will be moderating and I'll be a little further south. Maybe I'll find some warmth down there.

Ron invited me aboard Lastdance for breakfast and to warm up a bit. That was great. He's on shore-power and is running a couple of heaters. His boat was a toasty 75° inside. My boat was a cold 42.

I went back to Galena and alternately slept and watched DVD's all day. Both activities were accomplished without having to get out from under my down comforter. I have a small propane heater aboard and I used it on occasion. But those small gas cans cost money. So I wait until I can see my breath in the cabin, then I fire up the heater for an hour or so, then I shut it off and wait till the cabin cools off to an unbearable level again before I turn it back on.

Ron invited me out to diner at the Sandbar restaurant at the marina. It was his going away gift. He was going to stay there for another couple of weeks and then catch up with me in Florida around New Years.

By 2000 hrs on the 19th I was back aboard; and it was COLD. 35° outside, a whole 48° inside.

My plan was to make the 0630 Beaufort drawbridge opening and head south out of Town Creek, around Radio Island and back into the port.

20 Nov 08
Enroute to Mile Hammock Bay

I was asleep by 2100hrs but awake at 0200 on the morning of the 20th. I managed to get some more sleep but was finally up and getting ready to go at 0500hrs.

I was a bit concerned about raising the two anchors as the rodes had twisted, one over the other. My plan was to haul the CQR first since it was all chain and I had 80' of it out. The Bruce was on only 50' of chain. I figured I could use the windlass (manual, of course) to pull Galena forward and that would slacken the Bruce's rode enough to haul it by hand. It all worked well until I got up-and-down on the Bruce's rode. It may have been dragging, but it was still dug in deep. I don't have a chain gypsy on that side of the windlass, just a rope drum. So I took a snubbing line, which has a chain hook on the end, and took a bite on the Bruce's rode way up by the anchor roller on the bowsprit. Then I used the windlass to haul the snubber back. I could only move it about 2-ft at a time. Once the chain hook met the windlass I had to secure the chain with a second chain hook on a second snubber (yeah, I've got a lot of stuff for ground tackle) to hold it while I took another bite with the first chain hook. Then I'd winch it back two feet. After a couple of rounds of that the Bruce broke free and I swung over to hang only on the CQR.

The Bruce was fouled on the CQR's rode so I left it hanging below the bobstay while I cranked in the CQR's rode. Once it was up, I left both anchors dangling while I motored out to the bridge. The whole thing took 15-minutes. I was planning on about 25. So I had some time to wait for the 0630 bridge opening.

At 0625 I called the bridge tender to let her know I was standing by. She asked for the boat's name and hailing port. I gave it. She asked, "Is she named after the goddess or the ore?" I thought it was cool that she was so well read. As I motored through the bridge at 0630 she asked what kind of boat Galena was and commented on her fine lines.

I motored out with the ebbing tide making about 7.5 kts over the ground. But once I turned back toward the harbor on the other side of Radio Island my speed dropped quickly. With both the wind and the current against me Galena could only make 3.0 kts.

I heard s/v Oo La La on the radio and talked with them for a minute. They were at Duddley Marina and heading south today, too. So they were only a few miles ahead of me.
Jeff said to watch the current set in Bogue Sound as he was pushed to the east and went aground just outside the marks. I said, yes, I was aware. In fact I had gone aground right there myself a few years ago.

By 0930 the temperature was all the way up to 45° and the winds were west at 7-10kts. I caught up with Oo La La at the bridge at Camp Lejeune. The firing range had been closed all morning and he and others were stuck there waiting. I arrived about a half hour after they opened the waterway and made it to the bridge in time for the hourly opening at 1400.


Boats waiting at the swing bridge

s/v Ol La La followed me for a bit. We were intruding on the live fire exercises and there were Marines everywhere. We even saw some interesting assault boats.


Some kind of Marine Assault boat

I turned into Mile Hammock Bay at about 1430 and got the hook down. The holding was only marginal but there was no wind so I let it go, even though I could pull the anchor aft with full reverse. There was only one other boat in the place.

But after the 1700 bridge opening, 10 boats came in together and clustered around me. Now I was a bit concerned about my anchor. Before they showed up I figured I could drag several hundred yards before I had to worry. Now I had only a couple hundred feet before I'd bump into another boat.

The Marines were conducting training in the bay. They had some very large pontoon boats and were zooming around. I think they were making wakes to roll us on purpose. Well, it's their bay and we were intruding so I just went below and rolled with it. They packed it in just after sunset.

21 Nov 08, Friday
Wrightsville Beach, NC

I awoke early, about 0500 to the sound of my drag alarm. I had pulled back about a boat-length in the freshing wind. But I held there until I had finished breakfast. By then there was enough light to navigate and other boats were leaving. I hauled anchor and headed toward Wrightsville beach.

I was hook down in Wrightsville Beach by 1530hrs. I went in very near the bridge. Actually a bit inside the 'cable area' and close to the south side. The holding here is very good so I slept well.

22 Nov 08, Saturday
South Harbor Village Marina, Southport, NC.
Trip: 26nm, Total: 451nm, Engine: 1977 hrs

I arrived here very early in the day: 1130hrs. I got a huge lift from currents all the way from Wrightsville Beach. I was making over 7.5 kts all the way down the Cape Fear river. But the weather was still very cold. I even found ice at the hose bib on the dock at the marina.


Yup, there's ice under the hose bib.

I did a few chores around Galena before I headed for the local watering hole. I tied the dinghy to the deck. I replaced the frayed dinghy painter with the new line I had purchased, what, a month ago? I setup the Aries wind vane. I topped off the fuel and water tanks.

While fueling Galena I sprayed diesel fuel all over me. My watch cap, my jacket, my shirt. What a smelly mess.

I cleaned up Galena's deck a bit. I had chunks of mud from the anchor chain all over the foredeck. I swept that up and then washed everything down.

I'm springing for a marina because I need water and fuel. The marina is costing me $54 and 50 gal of fuel was $140. A beer and a burger at the new bar (just opened off to the left as you walk toward shore; named the 'Dead End Saloon') and I was ready for bed.

I had left my electric heater on while I was at the bar and when I returned I was very pleased to find Galena's internal temperature a comfy 68° for a change.

The weather forcasts for tomorrow, 23 Nov, look good for an offshore run to Charleston. The winds are going to be even lighter than they had forcast earlier. They should be on the stern so I may have to motor.

23 Nov 08
I departed the marina at Southport at 0630. It was just getting light. I had a gentle breeze flowing me off the dock and current on the stern. So started casting off lines: spring lines, bow lines, looped the stern line around the dock cleat and jumped aboard. The bow was already swinging off the dock. I let slip the stern line and started coiling it. Then I saw that as Galena turned away from the dock, her stern was being pushed toward the dock by the current. The Aries was heading for a piling on the dock. I dropped the dock line and put the engine in gear and gave it a strong goose. The wind vane just barly missed the piling as Galena moved away from the dock and into the channel. Whew! I have to keep focused on what's happening and stay a step further ahead in the future.

I motored out of the river and turned west along my route.

I heard two boats, s/v Kokopelli and s/v Lee-Ann talking on the VHF. I saw two boats running along the coast line. I called them to say. hi. I had met Gary and Janet of Lee-Ann in the bar at Beaufort. So we chatted a bit.

I was able to just sail for only about an hour. Everything was up and I was making 5kts in 7-10 kts of wind. But after a while the wind died and I fired up the engine. I motorsailed all the rest of the way. With the engine just ticking over I was making fine time. When the wind died a bird landed on the bow pulpit and rode along for a while


The sky was clear and the sun felt nice. For the first time in weeks the sun actually warmed my face. I was able to open my jacket, take off some of the many layers of clothing I was wearing.

I talked with Lee-Ann and Kokopelli several times throughout the day and night. Having someone around to talk with helped keep me awake and focused.

The sun lost it's heat early in the afternoon and the air was once again very cool. So I bundled back up. On of the nice things about sailing or even motorsailing off shore is that I can go below and cook meals, make notes, or just relax for a few minutes out of the wind.

I was happy that the air temp stayed a moderate 54° all night long. The sea was just about calm with just a small, 2ft swell running from the northeast.

The jib came down about midnight when the apparent wind just died. I left everything else up to control the rolling.

Early in the morning Lee-Ann was on the radio calling Kokopelli. Gary had noted a problem with his oil pressure. When Gary went below to look around, he found oil sprayed all over the engine compartment. He obviously had a leak in the oil system somewhere. He found it in a hose leading to the oil cooler. The hose had rubbed against the oil filter and had worn through. He fixed the hose, but he had no spare oil. Kokopelli was there to hand him a gallon of oil. By this time they were about 4 miles behind me so all I could do for them was worry.

I entered Charleston harbor at about 0500. And by 0700 I had the hook down in front of the City Dock. I was asleep by 0715.

24 - 30 Nov 08, Monday
Charleston, SC
Trip: 132nm, Total: 583nm, Engine: 2001hrs

My fuel status is 22/33/20 (gallons in the starboard and port tanks and in the jugs on deck). So I only used 10 gallons of fuel to motorsail 132nm. not bad.

I went to town on the evening of the 24th. I found a couple of nice bars, made my pilgramage to the Peter O'Neill gallery and stared at the paintings for a bit. I really like one of his latest works, The Embrace

Then I went over to Aromas Bar for some Pad Thai and a few drinks. I met Mandy the lovely bartender who took good care of me.

She also a very good bartender

While there I also met Ali and had a nice, long chat with her and her daughter.

Ali and her daughter at Aromas Restaurant
They had a solo guitarist who just rocked! I went back a few days later and, again they had fantastic entertainment.


I walked downtown to have lunch at Basil Thai Restaurant. The Pad Thai was not as good as at Aromas.

The Basil Restaurant in downtown Charleston

Capt Ron, of s/v Lastdance has decided to stay in Beaufort, NC, for the winter. So once again I'm on my own. Have a good winter, Ron.

But along the way, I noted a sign at a crosswalk. I thought it was a joke until I saw people actually taking a flag and holding it up as they walked across the street, at a crosswalk, with the light. Strange.


On the 29th, m/v Executive Suite came by to say, Hi. Brian and BJ are friends from the Bahamas last year and they live here in town. On the way north last spring Moonligh Serenade and I had a couple of nice evenings with them. BJ's mom is visiting but they may call me Monday and we'll go out for dinner or something. They are also heading to Key West for New Years so I might see them there.

The walk to town takes only about 20 minutes if you really strut it out. But it takes over an hour when one is staggering home late at night. I found a real dive of a bar named Big John's tavern. They have huge burgers for only $6.50 and two-dollar beers. My kind of place.

There was rain all day on the 29th. But little wind. My batteries were down to 75% of their charge and I was thinking I'd have to run the engine tomorrow to charge them up. But on the 30th I awoke to high winds and rain. The wind was 20-25 kts out of the Southwest; just as forcast. They say it will moderate later today. But the rain will increase. I'm having a bumpy morning here.

Tomorrow I'll get ready for the off-shore run. This will be about 165 miles and will be one of the longer runs. Should take me about 36 hrs, that's what it took last year. We'll see.

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11/17/2008

I have a new favorite bar in Beaufort, NC: The Handle Bar.It's a 'private' club just east of the Town Creek Marina. The bar is full of old farts like me and maids of moderate youth and extraordinary zest.

The Handle Bar, Beaufort,NC

A picture of the usual patrons. Of the four in the picture, the guy on the far left, in the brown coat, looks the most relaxed.

Four Patrons of the Handle Bar
 After a couple of beers there, I wandered over to my other favorite bar, The Backstreet Pub. There I bumped into my new buddy, Tom, crewing on the s/v Cheeseburger in Paradise. Together we then met Vern Mountcastle and his lovely wife, Kathryn.
 Well, actually I met Kathryn first. She looked so shy and sweet sitting there at the bar.

We engaged in meaningful conversation about topics of mutual interest.
Me and Kathryn dancing
at the Backstreet Bar; Greatest little bar in BeaufortThen she started to talk with Tom. At that point we met her husband, Vern. Who was a gregarious guy with many tales to tell. He actually dated Nigel Calder's daughter; how about that? While they were not on a boat that night, they have done a lot of sailing in the Caribbean.
Here's Vern, Kathryn, and Tom, just before we were to meet Vern
Vern and Kathryn were visiting Beaufort with two other couples and the wives were the belles of the ball.Put them away, Kathryn; here comes VernLater I walked over to the Dock House bar, at Beaufort Town Dock. As I sat at the bar the big guy next to me looked at me. I said, "Howdy." He said, "Hi." Then he said, "you're on a small green sailboat, right?" Yeah, I said cautiously. "Your name is Bill, right?"

OK, too strange. Turns out I had met this guy in Coinjock last fall. But he's from my home marina, Mears Point Marina, in Maryland. He's also heading south again, but just to the Keys, again. We chatted a bit and then I headed upstairs to check out the band.

There I found Vern and Kathryn and their friends. I drank and danced for an hour or so. Then I looked outside and noticed the wind was way up. It was blowing hard and had veered to the West. I grabbed my coat, said goodbye to my new friends, and hustled back to Town Creek. Galena was holding but had swung very close to the marina dock. Well, within 50 feet. I think that's close.

The next morning I moved a little bit further out. But then the wind died

Today, I'm really going to do some work. But it's very cold outside. It's only 45 degrees out there but we have no wind. So I'll get busy.

After a quiet breakfast of eggs, beagle, and lots of coffee I decided there was no reason to put off this whole chainplate replacement project. So I started.

Chainplate Replacement Project

Remember back on about 20 Oct when I wrote about noticing cracks in the chainplates? Well on that blog entry (click here) I talked about order new chainplates and then having to wait for them to come in. But since I would be motoring most of the way to Beaufort, I figured I could get down to here before I really had to install them. Well I have to install at least the upper shroud's chainplate since it has two cracks in it. Then I can at least consider Galena mission-capable and sail her without a great deal of concern.

First issue was the rail strake. Westsail put the rail strake (a strip of teak running along the side of the boat, just below the gunnel) on after the chainplates and therefore over them. Furthermore, there is one of the four bolts directly under the teak rail.

So one has to cut a chunk of the teak out over the chainplate. It looks like this:
The cutout in the rail strake (and the #2 bolt head) is circled in red.I'm debating weather I should cut new teak to replace the piece I took out, or just taper the ends of what's left and leave the chainplate exposed.

Then I went below. At first I thought the bolts were accessible from inside the hanging locker. But no. Those were the bolts for the forward lower shroud. The uppers are the ones that are just aft of the main bulkhead. So I had to move everything off of the pilot birth (doesn't everyone use the pilot berth for storage?)

Then I had to remove a goodly portion of the ceiling. On a Westsail this means pulling down 7 of the teak slats running along the inside of the hull. They are each held in place with 5 bronze screws. Thank God for electric screwdrivers!

As an additional bit of aggravation, the two lower bolts are in line with the main cabin bulkhead. Makes sense from a structural point of view. Those bolts have been glassed over with the tabbing of the main bulkhead. That is, the bolts are covered with a couple of layers of fiberglass. See the red circled bulges below.

The view of the inside of the hull with part of the teak ceiling removed.
Circled in blue are the aft lower chainplate bolts.
Circled in red are the two lower nuts of the four bolts of the upper shroud chainplate that I have to replace. The nuts are under those bulges in the fiberglass tabbing. The upper two bolts are way up inside the bulwark. 
So, having not a lot of power tools available while sitting at anchor here in Beaufort, I used a drill to punch a bunch of holes around the bolt. Then I used a chisel to tear out the bit of fiberglass around the bolt itself.

Drilling into the fiberglass. Always exciting drilling against the inside of the hull.
With just enough of the tabbing removed to fit a wrench onto the bolt, I was able to remove the bolts. The fiberglass tabbing was very thick and very hard. No wonder this hull is so heavy. And this is just the glass holding the bulkhead in place!

The upper two bolts were not too hard. I used a ratchet-wrench tool (9/16") to get the nuts off. But, as usual with things up in that narrow slot, I now have hands and arms that are itching and scratched from the fiberglass. It will take days for the itching to go away, no matter how much I scrub my hands.
Just enough glass removed to fit a wrench on the nut and turn it a sixth of a turn.

With all four bolts removed, and with a lot of twisting and pulling and a little prying, the old chainplate came off.
The old chainplate hanging from the turnbuckle.
Yes, Galena was once white with red trim.

I cleaned the area under the chainplate and put sealant all around the bolt holes. With my friend, Capt Ron, holding the bolts in on the outside I went inside and put the nuts on. Here's a shot of the finished assembly from the inside, looking up into the bulwarks.
The top three of the four new nuts, looking up into the bulwarks on the inside of the hull.

I retensioned the rigging, put the ceiling slats back into place, put all the stored junk back on the pilot berth, stowed away the tools, tried like hell to wash off all the fiberglass dust from my hands and arms, and then went out with Capt Ron for a beer.

All told the whole thing took about 5-hours. Not too bad considering I was doing this at anchor and not at my home marina.

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11/11/2008

04 Nov 08, Tuesday
Dismal Swamp Visitor Center, NC; ICW Milepost 28 (Dismal Swamp Route)

After posting to my blog I had Capt Ron over to Galena for breakfast. We had eggs and pancakes that were not too bad if I do say so myself. Since the three boats that had been rafted up to Galena had departed we moved LastDance to my port side. That left nine boats still sitting at the center's bulkhead. The weather was still bad for crossing the Albemarle Sound. We had received word that Elizabeth City was packed with boats waiting to cross. So we stayed put. Besides, we were developing a friendly little community here.

I checked my fuel status: 16/33/20 gal. (Stbd, Port, and Deck tanks). I leave the valves setup for the engine to draw from the starboard tank. And for the transfer pump to move fuel from port to starboard tanks. On deck I have four fuel jugs that I use to ferry fuel to Galena when I'm at anchor. I'll run the transfer pump in a day or so to move the fuel from port to starboard tanks. Ron is running a bit low and may have to use some of my deck fuel to make it to Belhaven, NC.

Ron and I took a walk down the nature trail and got a little exercise. We took some more pictures of our boats rafted up at the bulkhead here.


Ron had a different take on the slowdown I was experiencing while driving down the swamp canal. I've mentioned before that when the depth was over eight feet I could motor at my normal 5.7 knots at 2800 rpm. But as the depth decreased to seven feet my speed also decreased. On the occasions when I was in only 6.5 feet (which was rare) I could only make 4.8 knots!? I thought that was because my keel was dragging through some soupy mud on the bottom. Mud that the depth sounder couldn't see. But Ron said it was due to the suction of the canal bottom on the bottom of the boat. The canal is narrow (less that a hundred feet in places) and shallow. A boat, even as small as Galena, displaces a significant portion of the water at the spot she is occupying as she moves along. That, according to Ron, causes significant squat and additional drag. Ron work in the maritime industry after retiring from the navy. So I will defer to his significant wisdom on this. At least until I get the chance to Google "Boat Squat" and "Pressure Drag."

Last night Ron to a terrible fall while moving from his boat, across another enroute to the bulkhead. He fell on a powerboat gunnel right on his chest. He said he heard a rib crack. But he didn't feel any pain when he breathed deeply; although it hurt when he laughed (which he does, often). A few days from now he would say that when he hauled a halyard or sheeted in the main it felt like he had marbles rolling around in his chest. He'll get it looked at later. All day he sat around moaning. I actually felt sorry for the guy. Rich and Meg, whose boat he fell into, also felt a little bad for him. The incident made me more aware that for the past few months I have let myself go to hell, too. My weight is way up. I've got to stop the beer drinking and concentrate on my rum diet. When the larder is down to just Dinty Moore Stew, I'll drop the extra weight.



s/v Oo La La, Westsail 32 #81


Galena and Lastdance rafted up.

On Wednesday, 5 Nov, I woke up with a pain in my throat. I felt like I was catching a cold. I hate having a cold. I took aspirin and drank a lot of hot chocolate. And later in the day I felt fine. I guess I was just sore from snoring too loudly.

Last night it started to rain as the cold front we had been waiting for finally arrived. In the morning it was that nasty winter drizzle that makes everything feel damp and clammy.

Since we're down in the swamp canal, surrounded by trees we don't feel the wind that is reported as 25-30 gusting to 40. I mean we don't feel it at all! We are also in the shade. Together that means my wind generator doesn't spin and my solar panels don't... whatever they do. Galena's batteries are only good for a few days without charging. And I've been watching movies and using the computer to watch the weather. I've not been frugal with the power usage at all. So I've had to run the engine for an hour or so to top up the batteries today.

I had the pleasure to meet Audry and Gion (sp?). A cute French-Canadian couple aboard s/v "Haboob!" enroute to the Exumas and then continuing on south. Gion said his name is french for 'William' and that english-speakers just can't pronounce it correctly. So we called him Willie, much to his liking. Audry asked a lot of questions about crossing from Florida to the Bahamas and the procedures for clearing customs and the like. It's always nice to have the attention of a pretty girl. So I waxed poetic about my many crossings and my lack of adventure with regard to clearing in to the Bahamas.

I spent the day doing little odds and ends of maintenance and cleaning up. I checked the oil in the engine, polished my big brass lamp, organized some of the crap that seems to accumulate on the navigation station. The nav station table top is right at the bottom of the companionway ladder. As such I tend to just throw things there when I'm done with them. And there they sit. For days. Until, finally, when I can no longer stack things on top of one another, I start to put things where they belong.

I napped from 1pm till 4pm (life is rough, isn't it?) then I had a nice dinner of rice and beans. Ron and I have 'movie night' aboard Galena. We watched 'The Whole Nine Yards.' I talked with Sarah of Moonlight Serenade and gave her a few pointers on putting pictures inside of her blog. She and Bill are still planning on a January departure from the Chesapeake Bay. January??? Don't they know how cold it will be? Hopefully I'll be in Miami or crossing the Gulf Stream about then.

06 Nov 08
Elizabeth City, NC. ICW Milepost 50 (Dismal Swamp Route)
Trip: 21nm, Total: 202nm, Engine: 1930hrs
Anchored out at N 36° 17.901' W 076° 12.702'

Lastdance and Galena cast off at about 0930 to make the 1100 opening of the lock at South Mills. We planned on just putting down the canal and that's what we did. It's only about 4 miles and we took all of an hour and a half to make it. That's slow cruising. But it actually felt better than leaving at 1015 and hauling ass.

The bridge is first. They opened at exactly 1100hrs and we had arrived about 20-minutes early. We moved forward toward the locks, which were already open. On our starboard side between the bridge and the lock is a steel bulkhead that has room for 6 or 7 boats. Being right in town, although it's a very small town, it's would have been a better place to hole-up while waiting for weather.

On into the locks with a fairly strong wind from the starboard side. Just as we were casting lines around the bolsters the rain started. We had an uncomfortable wait while we locked down about 10-feet. Then we motored on down the river to here, Elizabeth city. We had heard that there was no room for anymore boats. I had thought that some would have departed since the wind was down to 15-20 kts and from the northeast. Lastdance found a slip at the Pelican Marina. I chose to anchor out. Mostly I was afraid to enter the marina in the wind. Why bother with fighting my way into a slip when I could anchor out? And there was wind, but no fetch. So the anchorage was quite calm.

07 Nov 08
Anchored at Deep Point, Alligator River, ICW Milepost 102
N 35° 40.472' W 076° 03.539'
Trip: 44nm, Total: 246nm, Engine: 1937

We arrived here at 1430hrs. I went over to Lastdance for an early sundowner, or two. The sun was shining brightly and the temperatures were up into the mid-seventies. I sat in the sun with my shirt off for the first time in weeks.

Back on Galena at 1700, a little the worse for wear.

We had a very quiet motorsail across the Albemarle Sound. Dead calm most of the way. I was struck by the fact that the sky, water, and shoreline were all just shades of gray. No other color in sight.

Nothing but gray

The trip down the Pasquatank River out of Elizabeth City was uneventful except for the fact that I counted 19 sailboats in a row from horizon to horizon. Everyone agrees this is the time to go south.

Lastdance on the Pasquatank River

We had only a short delay at the Alligator River swing bridge. I had just missed an opening for a couple of boats about a mile ahead of me. So we sat still for about 5-minutes before the bridge opened again. Mostly I think the bridge tender was waiting for a bunch of boats to catch up from behind. So we went through with a crowd.

Along the way I was passed by Ed and Elaine aboard m/v Bay Ranger. We had met at the Dismal Swamp visitor center. I don't know who makes that boat but it quite the charming little vessel.


Ron and I will depart early tomorrow to make for Belhaven,NC.

I've been playing with my new radar. Trying to develop an understanding of how the real world corresponds to what I see on the screen. Here's a picture of the chart and the radar screen. Pretty good comparison, huh?


Not only a good view of the shoreline, but also you can see the several boats behind and ahead of me in nice little rows.

Every time I anchor here I have to get sunset and sunrise pictures. For some reason they both look wonderful here.
So, here are the pictures for this year:


Sunset with Lastdance in the foreground


And sunrise the next day with Galena in the foreground. Always inspirational.

08 Nov 08
Belhaven, NC, ICW Milepost 138
Anchored in the river just west of R'8'


Holding sucked with the CQR. Nothing but soft mud here. So I left that anchor down and motored up to drop the Bruce. It set immediately. There was a forecast for high winds from the West tonight. So two hooks are not ridiculous. It's just that hauling up two anchors in the morning will be much harder than hauling up one.

On the way here I had a nasty encounter with a jerk aboard a large, new-looking sailboat. He was passing everyone in the canal without so much as a howdy-do. As he approached Galena, on her port side, I was approaching a bridge. There was no way he could squeeze between me and the bridge fenders. But he was coming fast, just off to my port. Finally when he was about 75' behind me I blew five toots on my horn and signaled him to stay back. At the point he backed off and slowed and fell in behind me; about 25 feet behind me! As soon as I was past the bridge he started around. Again, he was very close. I held course and as he came by I shouted some comments about his lack of understanding of the navigation rules. He said I should look behind me and just get out of his way. We had a few more words as he rapidly pulled ahead. The boat name was "Living the Dream." If you see him somewhere give him a wide berth. He's not just an ass, he's dangerous!

Ron went into the marina here. He needed fuel and he likes the comforts of being in a slip: Shore power, Cable TV, etc.

As I prepared to dinghy in to see Ron, I was shocked to find that I had not filled my gasoline can when I had fueled up with diesel. I only had about a gallon of gas in the small tank that goes into the dinghy. So I tossed the big deck jug into the dink.

I dinghied in to the marina and joined Ron for a walk to town and a drink at the local watering hole. I think it was called The Rack Room. It is just to the right at the first light in town. We had a few beers and chatted-up the locals. The bartender was a lovely lass; very attentive with a great smile. The locals were fun. The place was a pool hall and bar. And, what luck, we were there on Karaoke night!. We had to go back to the marina so that Ron could settle his account for slip and fuel. When we got there the bar was open. It didn't open until 7pm. Isn't that odd?. So we had a couple of beers and chatted with the other boaters. To give you a feel for the place, Ron and I were the only ones drinking beer. Everyone else was having martinis, Manhattans, and Merlot. Yeah, it was that kind of crowd. So we walked back to the Rack Room. Ron left at about 11pm while I stayed till 1am. I had an interesting walk home. I also had fun getting into my dinghy which I had left tied to the stern of Lastdance. Once out of the marina I hit full throttle and my little dink came up on plane. I scooted across the river at 16kts literally laughing out loud at the moon.

I didn't buy gas. Damn!

09 Nov 08
Anchored in Adams Creek, 4 miles south of Oriental, NC, ICW Milepost 187
Trip: 43nm, Total: 320nm, Engine: 1952hs
NE of R'6' at N 34° 57.026' W 076° 40.009'

Ok, this will go down as the worse day of the trip... so far.

I overslept and Ron woke me up by circling Galena and shouting to me from Lastdance. So I'm up and in a hurry. I get the motor of the dinghy, I put coffee on to boil, I clear the deck for travel. I start to haul up the anchors. First the Bruce. No problem. Then the CQR. It stops coming up and the chain is tight back toward the stern. And my anchor trip line/ball is nowhere to be seen. I think maybe there's a current I don't know about. So I put the engine in gentle reverse. Bang! What was that? I still can't find the trip line or the ball. It's a large hard plastic ball about 10" in diameter. I'm in the dinghy and checking the prop shaft. Nope, no rope there. I get a boat hook and run it down the rudder slot over the pintles and to the bottom of the keel. I feel the line tight along the bottom of the keel. It won't budge.

The only thing to do is to dive down and clear it. The whole situation just doesn't make sense to me. So I dig out my snorkel, mask, and fins. Over the side I go. Did I mention that this is November!!!!????!!! Talk about cold water. I dive down and there's the problem: the trip line is wedged behind the batten I installed at the bottom of the rudder to protect the slot between it and the keel. It's hard to explain but I'll try. Galena has a full keel and an aft hung rudder. But there's a slot about two inches wide between the rudder and the back edge of the keel. When I sail over crab pots or other lines, they tend to slide along the keel, which is fine. But then they come to that slot and they move up and get caught there. So years ago I installed a batten about 12" long and attached to the keel even with the bottom of the rudder, extending over the slot, and sprung against the side of the rudder. Works great for any line sliding along the bottom of Galena's keel. As long as it's going from fore to aft. The trip line, with float was pulled from aft to forward. And it slipped behind the batten. and it was caught. and the float had been up near the prop and had been hit. So I pulled the line aft and cleared it. Then I scampered back on board Galena and dried off as fast as possible. Man it was cold!

OK, words don't describe it well, here's a picture of the drawings from my actual logbook:


Altogether I spent over an hour getting the anchor cleared and up. Oh and the prop had punched a hole in the float ball so it was trashed.

As I was drying off in the cockpit, Ron had the courtesy to take a picture

Me as I dry off after my little trip over the side

Anchor up and off we go.

You can see the line of boats heading down the channel ahead of and behind Galena

In the clear morning sun the Pamlico River was calm and beautiful. As the Albemarle was all just shades of gray, this river today is just shades of blue. I know, the water just reflects the sky. But still, it's quite striking.


When we turned down the Neuse River to the west heading toward Oriental we were pounding directly into a brisk breeze and a 3' chop. Our speed was down to 4.4 kts. We decided we would skip Oriental. The marina was expensive and the anchorage out in front was full. So we continued on down to here on Adams Creek. I was going to try to get into Cedar Creek at ICW Milepost 187. But I could see that that spot was pretty full. So we stopped here.

As I was turning off the marked channel and heading into the anchorage area I was called by a local who advised me I was heading into a shoal. He was right! I turned and he directed me to a spot well off the channel and in 7-ft of water. Ron and I anchored there. The guy who called and advised us came sailing past and chatted. In fact I invited him to raft up and have a drink.

His name is Wayne and he's a retired fire fighter from Edison, NJ. He sails his Tartan 37 around Adams Creek an over to the Neuse River just about every day. He loves to chat with the transients each spring and fall. Someday he'll also head south. Just not right now. Ron rowed over to Galena and during the gam we found that Wayne and Ron actually know some of the same people in New Jersey. Small world.

Wayne, the unofficial mayor of Adams Creek

Just after dark Wayne cast of and Ron rowed back to Lastdance. I had a quiet dinner and was early to bed.

10 Nov 08
Anchored in Town Creek, Beaufort, NC, ICW Milepost 204
N 34° 43.495' W 076° 39.971'

A gentle down-current run from Adams Creek. At times we were motoring at 7.5 kts!

OK, another bad day aboard the good ship Galena.
Ron has a slip here for Lastdance. In fact he may stay here for a month while visiting with his son, Chris.
I'm coming into the creek and looking for a place to anchor. Usually I continue south, through the bridge and over to the anchorage right in front of the Beaufort Town Docks. But the current there is terrible and the moorings are filling the anchorage. And there are just so many boats that finding a place to anchor is a challenge.

As we left the Adams Creek Canal, we were passed by four navy go-fast boats the likes of which I had never seen before.

Anyone know anything about these boats?

So this trip I figured I'll look for something here in Town Creek. I motor in and in just a few boat-lengths I'm in trouble. I look to run behind a boat anchored in 'the channel' and I see 7.2-ft on the depth sounder. Within a boat-length I feel Galena's bow rocket upward and feel the sickening lurch as a shoal slide under the keel toward the stern. I hit full throttle and hope to power off the hump. No luck. I'm up a foot in the air at the stern. The depth sounder reads 3.9-ft. I draw 5. The prop is half out of the water. Ron agrees to pull me laterally from the bow. The couple from s/v Brilliant, who knew ron from Norfolk were passing by in their dinghy and they took a line over to Lastdance. He pulled and Galena's bow swung to port but I was still high and dry by the stern. I re-rigged the tow line to the starboard side and Ron gave another pull and with a lot of twisting back-and-forth of my rudder I was able to wiggle Galena free from the bottom.


Here's a chart view of my route (starts at upper-left) and the shoals that I didn't know about.
My track is the thin red line.


Ron continues on into his slip in the marina and I head out to the river to make another approach attempt. I come in and find a spot. I drop the hook in 10-ft of water and have Galena drifting back while I let out rode. The yachtie in the boat to my port side says, "You know there's a shallow spot right behind you?" "No, I didn't," I say at the precise moment that Galena backs onto this shoal of which he spoke. Well I had already paid out 60-ft of rode so I just winched myself forward and moved another 60-ft to the north. There I anchored without additional incident. But now I'm in the middle of the channel. But I just light up Galena like a Christmas tree at night and don't worry about it.

Ron and I went to the SandBar (the bar here in the marina) for a beer. The news is on the TV. Some bar stool ass next to me makes some nasty comment about Bush robbing the country blind. I turned to him and said something to the effect of, "Hey, Fuck you!" Which I thought set the tone of the forthcoming conversation quite well. I asked what, exactly Bush had done to cause the current financial crisis. He had no answer. I asked what actions Bush had not stopped that caused the problems. He had no answer. What an ass! First of all, you don't bring up politics in a bar full of strangers and just expect everyone to agree with you. Secondly one shouldn't spout bullshit rhetoric without having given it any thought. All that and I had had a not very fun day to that point.

I went back to Galena and finished putting her to bed. I was going to be here a few days and I wanted everything just really put away. That, and an early dinner took a few hours.

I talked with Dean, of s/v Briar Patch. He was rowing by and we chatted for a bit. He built Briar Patch himself 20 years ago. He's sailing off shore down to Wilmington tonight. Seems like kindred spirit. Maybe I'll bump into him again down the road.


Ron's son was coming down to visit with his two grandchildren. I went over to Ron's boat and met Chis for the first time. Chatted for a couple of minutes and then headed over to the bar again.

A few beers later I was joined by Holly. She was a Canadian who was crewing on a sailboat headed for the Dominican Republic. Her skipper, Capt Bob, was a competent man with 60,000 ocean miles under his keel. But he was getting old and wanted some help on this run. So she had answered his add and he, she, and another guy, were on their way. Holly and I talked for a couple of hours when suddenly I hear, "Holly! What are you doing here? Why didn't you call?" It was Capt Bob. He was pissed. He had dropped her off and was waiting on board his boat to come pick her up. He didn't know she would be stopping for a few beers. He said to me, "You got a boat?" I thought, hell, I talk to the girl and now I have to keep her? He clarified the question with, "You got a dinghy to take her back to the boat?" Sure, no problem. He storms off. We finish our beers and I take her home to her boat.

Today, the 11th of November (Happy Veterans Day, btw) I get a knock on my hull. It's Capt Bob. Two things on his mind: I hope you didn't think I was upset with you last night. And, by the way, you want to take her off my hands?

Bob Dudley and I chatted for about half an hour. I liked the guy. At 75 he feels he might use a little help on the longer passages (he's heading directly from here to Dominican Republic) but feels that Holly, with her inexperience will just not do. He's trying to find a nice way to put her off here in Beaufort. Bob's been sailing his boat, s/v Cheeseburger in Paradise, for 20 years now. He was in the Pathfinders, a special army unit, and has over 60 jumps to his credit. We share a lot of the same values, likes, and dislikes.

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