Farwell Dinners
04 May 2015
Warm and Sunny
Had quite a few "Farewell Dinners" this season ranging from truck food along Charlotte Amalie, an Irish Pub or fine dining @ the Frenchman's, The Boom or Red Rock. An evening to commemorate a week of snorkeling, building stronger friendships, laughs and enduring boat meals. All bitter sweet
This past week we had one with fellow cruisers which means we are at the end of another season in the Caribbean. Bitter - out time has come to an end. Sweet - there is next winter.
Since my last entry I endured 2 more passages. The 1st was an overnight to Antiqua. Upon our arrival we were greeted with a dolphin in the mooring field of Jolly Harbor. Checked in with customs and decided to take the local bus into the capital - St John. Our main objective was to get an island phone hoping our Digicel from the BVIs would work with a new sim card. After finding the store closed due to computer/internet issues we roamed around looking for a few items for the boat and lunch. We were definitely in the cruise ship area - many folks and many cabbies offering tours of their fine island. With a week to ourselves before our next guests we sailed to Deep Bay, Boon Channel and a favorite of mine Nonsuch Bay/Green Island. After a few showers the boat was clean enough to polish the stainless which wasn't to bad as I got to watch kite boarders zoom by. Upon completion Jim treated me to lunch at Harmony Hall. AMAZING! The meal was more like dinner so we went ahead and ordered dessert too. Wish we brought our camera as our plates were worthy of Instagram/Snapchat/.... If you are a landlubber but like an island check it out as they have 6 rooms, pool and a ferry to Green Island for the beach. Around to Falmouth Harbor where Jim returns from a shore trip stating he met a college teammate of his brother Wes. How it all came known is a cool story for another time. Such a small world. He and his wife are not sailors so we invited them onboard for dinner one night which was fun.
Back to Jolly Harbor as the McCarthys were about to arrive. The day was filled with intermittent showers but Frank and Marty arrived via dinghy without getting wet. Provisioning run was slightly different. Good thing was only Jim really got wet. Life in the islands
We set out for Deep Bay for the night. Snorkeled the wreck and some paddle board action. Trip up the Boon Channel and anchored for the night. The wind was very strong but Frank headed out to paddle anyways. Must be getting ready for the Edenton Water Festival Paddle Board race! Onward to Barbuda-a first for all of us. The sail was about 3-3.5 hrs on a beam reach. Going so fast Frank could not even entice a fish to his line. The Barbuda shore line is beautiful. Miles of gorgeous beach! Marty & I paddled to shore & took a stroll along Coco Point Beach Club property to the point. We were awed by the amount of exposed reef on the other side. The next day we had an island tour lined up. Basically a flat, dry island with the highest elevation of 125ft. , population of 1500, noted for pink sand and the twin state with Antiqua. Along the way 2 other couples joined us as they wished to see the caves and their cabbie was overbooked. Worked for us since while we were walking through the caves admiring the scenary we were corrected on the 'rock'. Not rock but coral. Our new friend was a geologist! Estimated that it took130mil yrs to get to where /height it is today. She also shared with us how it was formed - we knew wind, tide and rain but what parts were actually done underwater, at sea level and then above. Further educated that day our driver shared with us that Sir Codrington was there to farm the land. Once realizing it was not farmable he decided to breed slaves to sell as well as use them to captureships by drawing them into the reefs and then looting them. Evil goes way back. On a lighter note - the Frigate Bird Sanctuary! Took a motor boat out into the lagoon (largest in the Caribbean) and there among the mangroves were many white heads. Like in the thousands. Along with their dads protecting while the moms went searching for food. So close I was amazed the birds did not fly off or squawk that we were near. We were close enough to watch a momma feed her young. We did witness one unlucky fellow - chest puffed out nice and red waiting for a female to choose him to mate. Unlucky because that usually happens on Sept/Oct and that poor guy is still waiting in April. Better luck next stop dude. The young will not fly until 6-8months and they don't get their mature colors until 2yrs old which means we saw last years offspring as well as this years.
Batten down the hatches, tarp on forward bunk, drains closed - headed back to Antiqua. The 1st hour or so I kept thinking I left something undone. Double checked the drains, the trash can lock. "Argh, what is it?" Well , about 2 hours out, after some water over the deck Jim found out what I left open.......the porthole on my side of our cabin. Soaking wet corner of the bed, floor, and cabinets. My oversight brought me to tears. Why? Who knows - nothing a little fresh water, sunshine and vinegar can't clean.
We had a great sail and Marty earns a spot in the Guiness Book of records for sitting in the same seat (back port side) for 4hours. Albeit it is a great spot. Arriving in Nonsuch Bay on a mooring ball behind a reef and next to Green Island in the worlds (or at least Caribbean) premier kite boarding location. The bug bit and Frank was finally convinced we would all be fine there for a few days for him to take some lessons hence called 40Knots for a possible spot. Marty and I became dinghy independent and took ourselves snorkeling and beach sitting trying to pick him out of the other beginners. The 3rd lesson had to wait until we dropped them off in Falmouth as they had booked a couple of nights on land and the Frazees were coming in. After his successful 3rd day we all joined them @ the Admiral's Inn and dined at the Boom. Oh yea, that morning before Bob and Julie arrived I joined 25 other folks for noodling/noodlecize - water aerobics with a noodle.
With Antiqua Classic Race in town we enjoyed dock walking and a small bit of evening activites. Friday we walked up to a look out to watch the starts. Well, that was the plan but with other crusiers perched there with us we watched the whole race and made new friends. By the time we got back to the boat the guys were finew/heading out the next morning as "watching a race is like watching paint dry." While we were here 3 yrs ago Jim and Stephen crewed on a boat for all 4 days of racing. Guessing the thinking was watching would be similar - not. Fun but glad for the movement upwards.
Stop in Jolly for provisions and then to Deep Bay for Bob and Julie to get in the water. So excited Bob forgot to take out his hearing aids.!? Dried them off, stuck them in a container of rice and placed them on the cooling engine and VIOLA! Working when they headed home. Not so good for Julie as that same evening she broke a bone(s) in her foot as she stumbled down the companionway. Swelling, bruising but never a complaint of pain nor wanting to go get it checked out. Bruising subsided a little but the swelling remained until they got home and it is broken.
We left Deep Bay for a sail back to Barbuda. Such a beautiful spot and we had to share the Frigate Bird Sanctuary with them. Our driver and brd guide were both different from the previous week. If you go ask for Levi the driver and Patrick for the birds. What lacked from the driver Jim filled in the blanks and we were all 'WOWED" with the bird guide so it made up for it.
As the days passed I was mentally preparing myself for the next undertaking - 24hr sail back to the BVIs. Yes, there were 4 of us and the other 3 are much better @ sail trimming,.....just the idea of no land for a bit. Captain Jim picked a beautiful, clear night and after a few jibes the sails did not have to be adjusted while dark. My shift was 3-6am. I was awake @ 2am so thought I would go up and keep Jim company while he was on watch. He was like "Ummm, you clocking in early? No need for both of us to be up here." Haha I sent him to bed. Nano fully charged, I enjoyed watching the 'fireflies' of the water, passing cruise ships, stars and the sunrise which was gorgeous (better than the pics show in the gallery). I have to say Jim is batting 1000 this season with easy passages. No, still don't want an 8-10gig but might work up to 48hrs .....Maybe.
Landed in Virgin Gorda North Sound and after everyone catching s a nap and the Pirate show we spent the rest of the week snorkeling around the BVIs. So happy because Antiqua really lacked in the snorkeling department.
Our last week in the islands was just the 2 of us and we hung out @ Jim's favorite anchorage- Great Harbor. Lots of snorkeling (the water is soooo clear due to lighter winds), swims, paddling and walks. Our last night before we returned to the docks I convinced Jim to join me on a night paddle. He kept saying he wanted to snorkel along side and this night was perfect - no chill in the air, minimal wind and almost a full moon. We had a great time and so thankful the many tarpin that followed him did not take a bite.
Dock life brings mosquitos onboard so I made a plea to turn on AC while we closed down the boat. I can close the boat in 2 days while Jim likes to linger hence I have had to slow my pace considerably. I did enjoy daily long walks and washing my hair every day whether it needed it or not and completed yet another book. Everything is now complete and we say "GoodBye" to Tortolla in the morning and "HELLO" Edenton!