We left Isola Rosso around lunchtime hoping the wind would pick up in the afternoon and blow us safely through the Bonifacio Straits. We certainly got our wish and by the time we had passed Cap Testa and were in the Straits the wind was blowing at 20 knots and gusting even higher. The sea picked up to match and we decided (a bit belatedly) to put in another reef in both sails. Although tnot easy we got the reef in the main which is usually the harder one. All we had to do now was furl some of the head sail and we would have more control. As Jane pulled in the sail the furler jammed and the sail would not come in any more. At that moment unhelpfully the wind increased to 28 knots and we were approaching the maze of reefs and islands at the end of the Strait that we needed to navigate through. The boat speed picked up to 7 and a half knots and was feeling out of control as she rounded up in to the wind and waves - we had far too much sail up but we couldn’t get it down. We had no choice but to tack and turn the boat round as we were heading into the islands – not easy as the sea was huge and the boat seriously overpowered with too much sail, We had to reduce the sail somehow and had just decided we were going to have to go up on deck on the pitching bow and somehow tie down the sail (god knows how in that wind) until we could get to calmer waters and have a proper look at the jammed furler when Martyn had one last go at brute strength overcoming the jammed rope and he yanked the furler free. Quickly furling the sail completely, we also dropped the main sail and motored through the islands. The sea was still pitching and tossing but at least we had more control. As Martyn said 'keeps the skills sharp!' We sail hundreds of miles often well off shore and through some pretty strong winds and seas but without exception all of our most exciting and hairy moments happen within sight of land and when it is least expected!
We felt we had pushed our luck enough for one day and headed for the nearest bay offering some shelter which was Cala Sant`Amanza on Corsica and gratefully dropped the anchor at the head of the bay in front of a hotel. We checked the head sail furler and there seemed to be nothing wrong with it and it worked perfectly – just unlucky that we had got a riding turn on the furling rope at a bad moment, probably caused by us reefing late and too much wind flapping the sail as we reefed.
As everyone knows `the first time it crosses your mind to put in a reef you should do it NOT wait until you have to`. We will remember that next time.
We stayed in the cala for the rest of that day and most of the next as the wind didn’t let up and the weather was still cloudy and threatening rain. Is there ever unbroken hot sunshine here? There were plenty of other boats anchored around us and the hotel ran a constant shuttle boat service picking people up from their boats and taking them in for lunch or dinner. A very modern looking, new silver superyacht came in and for some reason his anchor just would not hold. Every time they sat down for drinks the boat broke free and drifted. In the end one of the crew just sat at the bow waiting to relay the anchor again. Once when they lifted it for the umpteenth time they even had a big rock stuck in the anchor flutes which they carried with them as they tried to re anchor. They eventually realised and managed to free it and drop it back in to the sea. We imagined that the irate owner on board would be having a lot to say to both the crew and the manufacturer as his brand new boat costing several million euros wouldn’t even stay put for half an hour while the gin and tonics were served. As ever Gemini held firm first time and we smugly drank our g & ts. Bet they had ice though and ice buckets to put it in.... We had plastic tumblers.
By 5 o’clock the next day we had had enough of the view and as the wind obviously wasn’t going to let up we decided we might as well use it and at least have a fast sail somewhere. We weren’t sure exactly where – we would just sail through the night on the wind and see which direction was easiest. We were going to head for the Tuscan Archipelago Islands off Italy and hoped they were as exotic as they sounded. Probably will end up in Elba or perhaps Giglio. We set off and sailed at 6 knots plus (fast for us) for about 2 hours until the wind died. Now what? We could either go into another bay along the Corsica coast or keep going. Probably would have been best with hindsight to have admitted defeat and turned backto Corsica but we kept going. It was a long, slow, dark night sail and by morning we could still see Corsica. I think we covered 40 miles in 12 hours but at least we kept moving.
When the wind eventually came it was clearly blowing us in the direction of the Isola di Montecristo and Isola di Giglio (where the ill fated Costa Concordia met her fate). We sailed very close to the Island of Montecristo – neither of us even knew before that there WAS an island of Montecristo. We both thought the book was set in mainland France. So much for our knowledge of Alexander Dumas and nineteenth century literature. We have since downloaded the book on to our kindle and are ploughing through it. The island itself was beautiful, absolutely unspoilt with no habitation visible and is now within an Italian National Marine Reserve so you are not able to stop and anchor at all. To be honest we couldn’t see anywhere that would have been suitable anyway but naturally Martyn wanted to as we were not allowed. The island towers out of the crystal blue sea and I could see why someone would want to be the Count of Montecristo.
We carried on sailing and by evening we were approaching the Island of Giglio. We had no idea where the Costa Concordia hit the rocks here last year but we approached with caution. We didn’t encounter any hazards though and stopped in Senochi Campese, Giglo. It was nearly dark by the time we got there but even in the dark and with rain threatening as it had on and off all day we could see what a beautiful place it is. I think I am going to run out of superlatives for the beauty of the Tuscan islands! Tomorrow we go exploring....