We chose the anchorage based on the weather forecast, wind direction and shelter offered by Campese Bay. The forecast was not very promising, predicting strong winds, cloudy weather and some rain but there wasn’t much we could about it, so we anchored as close in as the restriction buoys would allow, in about 10 metres of water, and dug the anchor in well.
Overnight the weather wasn’t as bad as forecast and the next day was even quite sunny so we blew up the dinghy and rowed ashore. From the boat we had watched the local bus arriving and disappearing up the windy road so we headed for the bus stop and got on the first one that came along. Until now I hadn’t really appreciated how much I take for granted my understanding of Spanish and French. I can’t really hold a fluent conversation but I usually understand most of what is being said and I can certainly understand signs and read a bus timetable. Italian is a different matter and having left my Italian phrase book on the kitchen table at home didn’t help. Anyway fortunately the bus took us to the walled town mediaeval town of Castello which was built on a high rock as a refuge for the townspeople when the marauding pirates came raiding. It was so picture perfect with tiny, twisting alleyways leading ever higher up to the top of the rock where picturesque houses had been built in to the rocks. We couldn’t imagine how much labour must have been needed to create this fortified town but it must have been necessary work to protect themselves. Even today wherever any renovation work was being carried out all the tools and bags of rubble were being carried by hand down to the builder’s waiting van hundreds of feet below. All the houses had mains water and electricity and what a job installing that must have been!! Next time Martyn complains that he can`t park right outside a house he is working on I shall remind him of Castello! Probably most of the houses are expensive holiday homes now but in July they were all occupied and the place was thriving. As ever in Italy everything was very pleasing to the eye and no litter, rubbish or garish signs in sight.
The view was amazing from the top and we could see both sides of the island including the bay where Gemini was moored and also the place where the Costa Concordia had come to grief. She had been finally re floated and towed away for scrappage about a week before we got there and we had read the daily warnings on the Navtex about giving the place a wide berth while the salvage operation was under way. The huge piles and cranes that had been used were still in place and looked completely out of place on the beautiful coastline. It must have been an awesome if very sad sight when the cruise liner was still there and on her side. Naturally the Italans have insisted that they be completely removed and the view is to be as unspoilt as ever. We did remember the people who lost their lives that night and imagine that their families must have stood exactly where we were grieving their loss. I don’t think anything needs to be said about the captain, how the accident happened and the events of that night.
Instead of catching the bus back to Campese we followed a footpath signpost which clearly stated in many languages (including English)) that the path was steep and slippery in places but said “enjoy the hike”. The signpost also promised magnificent views and that path went through areas of strawberry trees (!). With huge foresight we had actually brought some more sensible shoes to wear than flip flops and we changed in to them and set out. As ever with these things it always starts well and lulls you in to a false sense of security and before you realise it you have gone too far to turn back and going on is the only option. The path was everything the signpost promised – it was steep (very), slippery in places (the places usually being right by a sheer drop down to the coast hundreds of feet below) and every sign on the way gave the distance in time and not distance ie 45 mins, 30 mins and then one at 15 minutes. Well obviously Italians move faster than us because every section took us about twice about the time given on the sign. But the views were magnificent and the strawberry trees turned out to be blackberry bushes with lots of ripe fruit. It was a good excuse to stop every few hundred yards and we picked enough for several blackberry crumbles.
Eventually we we were down at ground level and although doubting if our knees would ever be the same at least we had our blackberries and the satisfaction of completing the hike. We had passed several people lying by the side of the path recovering before going on. Whether they were on their way up or down was hard to say and most were not in the mood to chat!
When we got back to the boat a few other boats including a very large sailing superyacht had also anchored in the same bay. We took heart from that and concluded that they would have much better weather forecasting equipment than us and had chosen the same bay so hopefully the night would not be as windy as forecast. As there was really nowhere else to go on such a small island we didn’t have much choice.
The apple and blackberry crumble was delicious – there aren’t many hot puddings that I can do on 2 calor gaz rings but this was one of them. (pancakes or crepes are about the only other) and after our exhausting climb down we went to bed early. The weather was quite benign and the sea only slightly rippled....
By midnight we were both up and on deck as was almost everyone on all the other boats. The people on the huge catamaran next to us being the only exception and their boat was in darkness and they seemed to be able to sleep through anything. The wind had picked up and was howling through the rigging and the boat was pulling and jumping at her anchor as the sea pitched and rolled in on us all. I don’t know what force the wind reached that night but a storm front went through and we both agreed it was the worst night at anchor we have ever had. The boat behind us had real problems holding her anchor and they had to relay it at least three times – not easy that night. Even the big yacht had everyone on deck and I imagine, like us, they were having the “how long can we stay here – are we safer here or better off out at sea?'” discussion. The waves were actually breaking around us and had we been in much shallower water we would have had to move. As it was, at first light, about 6.30am we lifted the anchor and headed out. We hoped the worst of the storm had passed but the sea was still too rough for us to stay so our best plan was to use the wind and sail for Elba about 25 miles away. At least, being a much bigger island, there would be anchoring choices and refuges. Even in the cold dawn light and with the weather doing its worst as we looked back at the Island of Giglio we thought what a beautiful place it is. Maybe the people on the Costa Concordia thought the same!!
The first part of the sail was quite testing, winds up to 30 knots and driving rain as another thunderstorm passed over us. I haven’t felt rain that feels like it is actually cutting you as it hits your face since we left the English Channel....And having had less than 2 hours sleep each the last thing either of us felt like doing was a 6 hour sail but it had to be done and as we approached Elba the wind died to almost nothing and we motored in to the Golfo di Stella . Elba looked like a bigger version of Giglio and very pretty but maybe that is because we were so glad to see land and be in a calm bay , get the anchor down and get some sleep. Sure it will all look better tomorrow....