GHOST

Well we arrived in Kos on the 9th in preparation for Celina's departure on a ferry back to Rhodes, and immediate thoughts were "Why are we back in Greece?". We sailed a little bit in the morning before the wind went haywire moving from 10 to 30 knots and back again in the space of 5 minutes several times over. As soon as we passed the first headland on Kos it was 30 knots on the nose so we motor sailed and consoled ourselves that shortly we'd be tucked up in what is apparently the best marina in Greece!

But things are never that easy! First, the best marina in Greece was "full", although there were many boats coming and going. Then on route to the old harbour I, the Aussie, was overcome with bout of English politeness and let another English vessel go ahead of us. This resulted in them getting the last berth left in the old harbour! So it was back out to set anchor near the entrance to the 'best marina in Greece'. After lying low, reading, drinking, bugging the marina on the VHF to see if they had space yet and ensuring the anchor was well set (oh forgot to mention wind picked up, but it is Greece after all!!) we jumped in the dinghy and went ashore. Had a wander around for a bit, found a nice little restaurant for dinner and then called it a day.

Come morning we bugged the marina again and finally they'd seen one of the spaces that all those departing charter boats yachts left so we finally got to enjoy the comfort of being still, full electricity, free Wifi and a chance to wash poor old Ghosty down. The label 'best marina in Greece' isn't actually that far off the mark. The staff where overly helpful, the facilities great and the price acceptable! We actually felt like for once someone in Greece wanted you to be there! We got Celina to the ferry terminal via the cheap booze shop, then we headed back to the boat got the bikes out, packed a few cold beers and rode south. We found an overly average mini golf course and teed off. Won't go into the scores, but needless to say my short game needs work! The price of admission included a free beer so by the 16th (yes I know most if not all courses have 18, but this one only had 16 of the worst felt putting surfaces this side of the Med!) we had consumed that plus the others we brought and merrily peddled back to the marina.
Next day we were meant to hire some mopeds but relaxing and a little boat maintenance got in the way so the 11th of August passed in quiet fashion with the obligatory beers at midday (OK 11am!) and the rest is a haze!

Right, 80cc mopeds on the 12th , when we scooted south to the thermal springs. Yep it was a pool of hot water swarming with hairy Greeks; Kat went in up to her ankles while I played spot the hairy pits. Nice, but not nice enough to wallow in so we left as quickly as we arrived. We've become overly used to crystal waters, secluded anchorages and far fewer Germans! Next stop, various hot and dusty towns in the centre of Kos. Found some old castle ruins at Paleo Pili in a pretty prominent location perched high in the hills, where we had our packed lunch and then moved on towards the coast. On a local recommendation we went to Tigaki for the 'best beach' on Kos. Now at the risk of being elitist, it wasn't my idea of a beach; even Kat was put off by the seaweed! Although we couldn't help but be attracted to the boxing kangaroo flag and before you know it we're chatting to Micky from Sydney that runs the sun lounges and umbrella racket here (you the ones you pay for privilege of being herded into a 3x3 square metre patch of sand complete with 1970's plastic sun lounges and brolly!). He gave us a discount so before you know it we were wading through the seaweed armed with a small wooden paddle each and ball. After 40mins of bat and ball, we 'lounged' on our 3x3sqm of prime beach real estate before it was time to keep moving. Got back in to Kos proper late afternoon and dropped the bikes off before heading back to the boat for a few more brews.

After vowing only to stay one night in Kos, and Greece for that matter, we ended up staying 4 and actually it was really quite enjoyable. Now I could say that Kos if markedly more inviting, immeasurably more accommodating and inevitably more pleasing than Rhodes but it doesn't really describe our true feelings. It quite simply shits all over Rhodes!

The next day we sailed comfortably (nice 8.5 knots on a board reach) back into Turkish waters and made for a small anchorage that is known as the Aquarium. Very popular with day tripper boats we had to fight for our spot, (waving arms and occasionally raising ones voice and including a few profanities) as while Kat was handling the boat some 60 metres of the shore and I was setting our shore lines, the little blighters would try to anchor in between us. It was our first time anchoring and running lines shore with just the two of us. Up to now we have anchored and only run lines ashore when Celina was here. As far as first times go, we did all alright, in fact when the wind picked up we did it again just to make sure!

Managed to get out for a good snorkel and first thoughts where, " I've seen more interesting things in my bathtub" but when we ventured a little further afield it was really quite good, lots of fish, and loads to look at. Highlight of the night was an arrogant Gulet driver that thought it was quite reasonable to pass within a metre of our bow while we where anchored. After that, we watched him make for a small gap between the mainland and the island that our pilot book sites as very shallow - where he proceeded to ground himself!! So in true fashion I grabbed a beer & the binos and sat on deck to watch the show! A yacht tried to pull him off with no joy then finally a sizeable power boat did the business. Needless to say the Gulet made a hasty exit from the bay!!! Finally all the day tripper boat left and it was just one charter boat, some Frenchies and us. Bliss.

This morning we hauled anchor as the first day trippers returned and then made for Bodrum, and another top (although slightly expensive) marina. We tied up and headed into town to the museum of underwater archaeology housed in the Castle of St Peter. All very interesting but sooo very hot so once we were all museumed out it was back to the marina and the pool and you guessed it....a couple of brews.