Much has happened since our last blog two weeks ago. We departed Nassau (along with Stella Blue and Island Girl) on January 17 after spending several days (longer than we expected) in Nassau sitting out a blow. We headed for Norman’s Cay as no one had a burning need to go to Allen’s and see the iguanas. We made good time and, en route, hooked a nice yellow tail snapper. That morning, Van had found a recipe, which had fallen onto the deck from one of Lauren’s recipe books, for ceviche, using yellow tail snapper, and wished we could catch one. Wouldn’t you know, we did!

While en route, Lauren made the fresh salad, which was interrupted by a loud “bang”. She thought we had hit something, but it was the sound of the head of the jib letting go. She came up on deck, took the helm and headed up to reduce speed, while Van hauled the jib down onto the deck and lashed it there. Although the winds were not terribly strong (about 13 knots), the seas were building and there were signs of approaching squalls so we doused the main and motor sailed with just the mizzen. We anchored in the southern end of Norman’s Cay and checked out the sail – one of the heavy straps that cross the head of the sail had let go. It was the Captain’s fault – we had help putting the sails on and the shackle to the halyard had been put through only one of the straps, so all the stress was on one, not shared between two. That, and the effect of the sun, likely weakened the one strap. (Reminder to Captain: check all work being performed to make sure it is done correctly.) Coincidentally, the last day in Nassau we had walked past a sail loft and Lauren asked if we needed any sail work done. Not then we didn’t. We carry a sail needle and thread, but this was going to be a prodigious task with all the tough layers to push a needle through. Fortunately, Island Girl had a sewing awl – (now on our list of things to buy!) – which made the task of sewing a new strap fairly short work. Not only was it easier than pushing a needle through, it made lock stitches rather than simple pass-through (over and under) stitches. Getting the sail back up meant going aloft to retrieve the halyard (actually, the furling jib head slide) so we could reconnect that to the top of the sail and haul it back up. Baxter and Rocky (of Stella Blue and Island Girl) hauled Van up in record time.

All went ashore for celebratory drinks, but the provisioning boat hadn’t come yet from Nassau, so all the bar had was rum, rum, and more rum. No fixin’s for Piña Coladas or Bahama Mamas. So, we had rum and coke with a splash of pineapple juice. The bar tender had a heavy hand, and one drink was enough. We shared the fresh ceviche for appetizers and enjoyed a delightful time at anchor.

The next day, we all dinghied north from the anchorage toward the shallows and the mangroves. We had been told of an area where a “herd” of conch was migrating. The information was correct – we saw thousands of conch, a veritable city, the most we’d ever seen in one place. Rocky and Paul (from Island Girl) and others (see separate post) retrieved some of the grandpa ones in preparation for making conch salad, cracked conch, or conch fritters. The shallow water was warm, we motored and walked (when it was too shallow) and made our way to a delightful beach , snorkeled, combed, and found a few small treasures. That night, we all dined aboard Island Girl on Paul’s Pizzas.

On January 19, Gratitude departed for Shroud Cay, which we had missed last year, while the others headed further south to Warderick Wells, the headquarters for the Exumas Land and Sea Park. Shroud was worth exploring, with a deep creek that meanders clear through the island (actually, a cluster of cays connected by mangroves) to the Exuma Sound side. It was an interesting although long ride; it started to rain when we were on the beach outside, so we thought it best to head back. The winds were supposed to be from the north, which would have been OK where we were anchored, but they held their “westerly component” longer than predicted and we found it quite rolly all night long. So, on the 20th, we moved further south to Hawksbill Cay, another one we had passed by last year, and anchored mid island in a cove on the west side. We had the place to ourselves until late in the afternoon when a megayacht (150 feet or so) came along and anchored well offshore of us and unleashed its toys – jet skis and a high-powered runabout.

We really enjoyed Hawksbill and hiked across the island through the dense underbrush to the “south beach”, which really is the southerly of the two northern beaches. We walked its entire length and found some more treasures. However, since we were in the Park, we did not take them. The most spectacular find was a measled cowrie, about 3 1/2” long, rare to us. On a separate hike, we took a more northerly path to the “north beach” and to Russell Ruins. The Russell family was deeded the island by the Crown in the 1700’s and farmed sisal, tamarind, and other attempted crops before giving up the effort and the island. The ruins were outlines (and some partial walls) of small structures, maybe one or two rooms, plastered with tabby (a mixture of burnt lime, sand, and water). We saw one of the foundations for a bee-hive oven (in which they burned the conch shells to make the lime), several tamarind and sisal plants scattered about, and found a shard of pottery (which we also left) that displayed a white china background with royal blue design, finished with gold filigree. That appeared to be one remaining connection to home and luxury.

Because company (Joe and Niki, dear friends since graduate school days in NYC) will be joining us soon, we decided to go to Staniel Cay to be there when the mail boat comes in. The mail boat carries not just mail, but everything else one can imagine, including fresh produce. So, on January 22, we pulled up anchor and headed toward Big Majors Spot. As we were pulling away from Hawksbill, Van tried hailing Sanity II on the radio. No response from them, but Amazing Grace (whom we met in Georgetown last year) called us back and it turned out we were only a couple of miles apart, heading the same way. Amazing Grace reported having seen Sanity II crossing the Grand Bahama Bank the Wednesday before, so we knew they were in the neighborhood.

When we arrived at Big Majors, we saw Stella Blue at anchor, but no Island Girl, Sanity II, Midori, or Living Well. We caught up with Baxter and Molly and learned that Island Girl decided to push ahead as they need to get to Puerto Rico to drop off Paul and Leticia to fly home. Because we have been having radio “issues” (we could send but not receive well) we decided another trip up the mast was in order to clean the antenna connections, so Baxter and Molly hauled Van up again. (Baxter now has been re-christened “Otis” as in the elevator people.) While up on top, Van took several panoramic pictures – note the shark about to swim underneath the dinghies tied to the stern of Gratitude. A test of the radio revealed continued problems and a neighboring boat recommended checking and cleaning the ground wire because transmitting has enough power to send, but the receiving signal is weak and may not cut through the poor connection. (That seems to have done the trick, but we have been anchored in a remote spot and need to get out from behind hills to do a radio check.)

During the day on Tuesday, January 24, we ran into Larry from The Dove (also met last year) and then, on the 25th, Sanity II came in to Big Majors Spot and dropped the hook right behind us. We had Larry, Dave, and Mary over for dinner to celebrate our reunion. (Also, Dave and Mary had carried some new LED lighting for us so we owed them “barge fare”.) Larry brought along his home-made Bahama Mamas, which we all enjoyed. We now are developing our own private recipe!

On January 26, Sanity II picked up company and headed to Warderick Wells, The Dove headed to Black Point (to do laundry), and Gratitude headed up to Pipe Creek, about which we had heard a lot, but had not tried to enter because it is so tricky. With the help of Larry’s local knowledge and VPR (visual piloting via the water color), we made it in just fine and anchored between Rat Cay and the Mice (a string of tiny islands). The anchorage is barely wide enough to swing a full circle, but it is beautiful. We rigged the dinghy and motored over to Just Ducky (yes, their dinghy is Rubber Ducky), about whom Larry had informed us. Joe and Carol have been coming here for 14 years and they stay for 4 months in this one archipelago. They can dinghy south to Sampson Cay to reprovision, or north to Compass Cay for visits with the nurse sharks (see below and separate post), but mostly they hike on Thomas Cay, clear trails, and answer questions from folks like us. We so appreciated their help, we provided them with a jar of homemade Raspberry Jam from Fox Ledge Farm.

One day, we walked across Thomas Cay to the Sound side; another, we did a lovely dinghy drift snorkel in the cut where Gratitude is anchored; and another, we dinghied up to Compass Cay Marina to walk the beautiful, curved beach on the Sound side and had a huge hamburger lunch while other folks swam with the nurse sharks. Although not aggressive, the nurse sharks (a) cannot see well, (b) are interested in eating, (c) have an excellent sense of smell (via the barbels hanging from their snouts), and (d) are attracted to flashy colored items. One of the men in a group (who is the captain of a megayacht we have seen along the way) had been feeding fish to the sharks, got in the water with a bright blue iridescent camera, and proceeded to have a finger and his camera bitten. The folks who work at the Marina commented that one never should get in the water after eating and without washing with soap and water. (Today, Joe and Carol said never to swim with rings exposed as the flashes of light may attract barracuda.) Good advice for other ventures into the water, as we have seen sharks swimming by Gratitude here at anchor.

Today (January 29), it is overcast, but the clouds are breaking. Joe led us up the Creek toward the entrance between Thomas and Joe Cays to show us where we might find lobsters and where there are some attractive coral heads for snorkeling. We were a bit late for slack tide, and found the outgoing current in the entrance a bit strong for our liking, so we came back inside and did a long dinghy drift past several small islands. The underwater scenery was spectacular – many different colored fish (including lion fish, which are beautiful, but have poisonous spines and are invasive), stag horn and elk coral, and literally dozens of small coral heads with their own schools of fish. It was about as good as it gets! If the winds hold off tomorrow, Van and Joe may go “outside” to hunt for lobster. So much to do!