March 7, 2012

Sadly, Hoyt and Christy have come and gone. We had a fun and adventure filled week with them aboard, and it was great having a crew member in Hoyt with long term boating skills and common sense.

The week-long visit started with a day here in George Town, on Volley Ball Beach, sampling the wonderful conch salad (a ceviche actually), and walking one of the trails across Stocking Island to the "outside" where we wandered the beach and collected shells, etc. The next day was lovely, with nice winds (12-15 knots) from the south east, so we decided to head to Conception Island for a few days so they could see some of the unspoiled beauty of this area. En route, with two lines out, we hooked two fish, but the lines tangled and one got away. We were able to retrieve the other one and it was a very nice 39" Mahi Mahi, so supper was assured.

Saturday dawned a beautiful day and the only other boat there pulled anchor and sailed south. We swam, snorkeled, walked the beaches, and generally took advantage of a lovely spot. We decided that we wanted to try some different snorkeling grounds the next day, if we remained. Sunday was calm with light winds forecast. Although the winds for Monday were forecast to be higher, they were predicted in the 22-24 knot range and, because we would be returning down wind, we decided to stay for the "sleigh ride" back to GT. So, we snorkeled on the east side of the Island, which was in the lee of gentle winds from the West. While the north anchorage is not good for west winds, because they were light, it was not bad at anchor. After dinner, we dismantled the dinghy and put the engine and other gear safely in storage. As it turned out, we should have put the dinghy on the foredeck, but the captain (stupidly) reasoned that we had sailed with the dinghy in the forecast winds before and so it would be OK.

Monday morning dawned with the wind fairly howling, but still not above the forecast 23 or so. However, once we got outside and underway, the winds and seas quickly built. In a relatively short time, the winds were up to a steady 32-35 (gale force is 35 knots) with higher gusts and the seas built to 10-12 feet. That is when the problems started: the dinghy was pulled fairly close to Gratitude, so it would not surf and be jerked back and forth on the waves. When we went up on one high crest, a gust caught the dinghy at the top of the wave and flipped it. Boats are not meant to be towed upside down and, at the speed we were going (on occasion reaching 10-11 knots) the dinghy broke loose. We briefly - 10 seconds or so - discussed whether to try to return to retrieve it, but it would have been fruitless - not to mention downright dangerous in heavy seas -- to try to retrieve it, flip it over, empty it of water, and rig the bridle to haul it back aboard. So, we consigned the dinghy to the deep - or maybe to some deserving person somewhere who can use a simple skiff, assuming she makes it past the rocky "iron shore" on the outside of the islands. (We were on the East side of Long Island when this occurred, so it may have found its way to a harbor or been beaten to smithereens.)

The next challenge was to get back to George Town. As noted, the winds and seas were high, but Gratitude, under partial jib and with engine running, handled the big conditions with aplomb. Hoyt did most of the driving and seemed to be in his element. Christy noted, however, that she was pleased when he put on his sunglasses and she "could not see the fear in his eyes." He assured her it was not fear, just careful attention to the waves coming from behind to make sure we kept our heading. Then came the entrance to the George Town Harbor -- we decided to take the North, Conch Cut, entrance both because we are more familiar with it and because there are fewer reefs and problem areas with which to contend. It proved to be a good choice. We ran in before the wind (with all sails doused) and prepared for a rolly ride once we turned to port (left) and ran across the waves. The rough ride did not come, however, because we entered at slack tide and because the reef tempered the waves. We proceeded further into the harbor to search for an appropriate anchorage. We checked out the area off Volley Ball Beach (so we could hitch rides from the crowds) but it was too nasty. So, we dropped back to an area between Honeymoon Beach and Hamburger Beach and tucked up behind a hill to be in the lee. The relative calm was most welcome.

During lunch, we recounted our travails and agreed once again we had made the right choice to abandon the dinghy and not try to rescue it. (Good thing, because no one wanted to go back out and look for it!) Although we reported our loss on the Cruiser's Net, so far no one has a spare dinghy to sell and we do not care to pay the price of the one new one here in George Town. One boat has a second one we can borrow for our remaining time here and several boats, including Living Well, Midori, and Amelia Rose - from the boat yard - and Gaia, have offered rides and to buddy boat en route back home to Florida. As a result of the loss of the dinghy and the forecast of strong winds for the next two or three weeks, we have shelved the idea of going home via Eleuthera. We decided we would rather travel with others and in an area with which we are familiar rather than a new venue and without a dinghy to explore. Next time!

Yesterday, we took the water taxi to town (no one was running their dinghies across - it was much too rough) to go shopping, have lunch out, and show Hoyt and Christy the town. We returned to Gratitude for lobster dinner (yes, we have a horrible time with food: steak, lamb chops, fresh Mahi Mahi, lobster, etc. - Lauren makes sure the crew is well fed) and an evening of games aboard. (We have played Parchesi, Farkle, and Bananagrams on alternating nights, when we were not so tired as simply to want to read and go to bed.) A boat anchored nearby evidently dragged and spent the next nearly two hours trying to re-anchor. We are not sure what was the problem, but the gentleman appeared to be all alone on board and, without a dinghy, we could not offer assistance. He finally set the hook about ½ hour after the rest of Gratitude's crew bedded down for the night.

In all, it was a great week with folks we had a good time getting to know better. And, we assured them (Christy especially) that not all weeks are so exciting.

The closing ceremony of the Cruisers' Regatta is this Friday. We plan to attend that and then , with the first good weather window, start our trek back North. We are not sure with whom we will travel, but we are sure it will be in good company.