Enough already!
13 February 2014 | En Route to Ragged Islands
EVS: Squalls
Enough already! February 13, 2014
We have been trying to catch fish as we have traveled down the islands (from Black Sound in the Exumas to Duncan Town in the Ragged Islands -- very near to Cuba). We actually have had quite a bit of luck -- batting 1000 so to speak. Each time we have thrown a line in the water, we have made a catch. Unfortunately, each time has been a barracuda, which are inedible to those not raised on them. (They tend to carry a dreadful neurotoxin that causes ciguatera and we do not want to mess with that. The Bahamians eat the fish, but they seem to have developed a sort of immunity.)
The first one we caught was quite large -- we estimate 3 to 3.5 feet. What was most interesting is that something, much larger, must have thought we were trolling with that one to catch it as the last half was quite bitten up and mangled by the time Van reeled the 'cuda in. We released it, as we do all, but it was obvious that the fish had succumbed to what had been gnawing on it. The next one got away, with a favorite lure. We tried a different lure, and the barracuda that grabbed it for a snack must have bitten part of the leader as it broke, and we lost that lure too. We caught several more, and released all, including the last one, a veritable baby. As a result, we have decided that fishing on the Bahama Banks is not worth it and we must go outside (to deep water) to fish.
En route to the Ragged Islands, we traveled down the "back side" of Great Exuma Island, where George Town is located. We spent the first night anchored in the lee of Coakley Cay, but the wind shifted and we had a rather rocky night. We intended to spend the next night at Flamingo Cay, but the winds were forecast to clock around to the north and that anchorage provides no protection from north winds, so we moved on to Jamaica Cay. On the chart, it appeared to be a protected anchorage, but when we got there, we found the small off-lying cays did not do more than diffuse the winds, and certainly did not interrupt the ocean surge that rolled in all night long. What made that night truly exciting was the squall that hit at about 4:30 am. We were awakened by distant lightning, so we got up to close ports and hatches and then watched the storm gather and approach. It was as if there were multiple "lightning parties" going on as each flashed and rattled in turn, as if responding to the other. There were several native fishing boats anchored in Jamaica with us (three "mother" ships and multiple open rigs from which the locals dive for lobster and crab). While we watched the light show, the winds picked up -- highest we clocked as over 27 knots -- and we watched one of the "mother" ships and her attendant rigs suddenly, and rapidly, start to drag anchor. We were surprised at how fast it moved and that a native boat would let loose like that (after all, these men spend their lives on the water). Luckily, the crew was awake too and was able to let out more anchor line to stop the boat before all was smashed up on the rocks. The rains came in a deluge -- we have had more rain this year in the Bahamas (actually, in that one storm and the next morning's squall) than all the prior years we have cruised in the Bahamas.
We wondered whether the fishermen would go out the next morning, and did not have long to wait and watch them go. We decided the conditions were so uncomfortable that we would move on too. So, we pulled the anchor and sailed south to anchor in the lee of Buenavista Cay, where we were in the company of about 5 other cruising boats -- and that night, the same fishing boats.
Then, on the 14th, we moved south again to anchor off Duncan Town on Ragged Island. That is the only settlement in the entire chain of islands consisting of the Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands and is home to fewer than 100 people (of whom 15 are students in the local school).
To reach Duncan Town, one takes the dinghy through a mangrove lined channel to the Government Dock. The water is too shallow for anything other than small motorboats and outboard craft and it takes 20 minutes to get into town from the nearest anchorage. What Duncan Town lacks in size, it makes up in hospitality. We met Charlene, the local public "chamber of commerce", who greeted us warmly, gave us information about the town and what we could find where, and assured us that if we needed anything (food, fuel, water) she would see to it that we were supplied. (Note, it might take a week for the supplies to reach us, but she was willing to help.) She also informed us that the Town has free wi-fi community wide, so we should feel free to use it. We did!