We finally pulled away from Spanish Wells on Thursday, Valentine’s Day, February 14. We felt a bit sad to leave there as the people had been so nice and the area has a lot to offer. We got hugs from the folks in Pinder’s Market and encouragement to come back soon. Our departure was slightly delayed from plan by the need to take on fuel and water, watch a large motor yacht being hauled on a marine railway (a diver goes in the water to set the supports as the boat is positioned), and take our leave. As a result, we arrived at Current Cut a bit after slack tide. We thought it would not be too bad because we were only 30-45 minutes post slack, but the tide was against us at 5-6 knots, so we crawled through at about 2-3 knots. Actually, that is the preferred direction because we could maintain steerage, albeit slow going, against the current. Going with the current means you go where the water wants you to go, unless you really pour the throttle on and travel at about 4 knots faster than the current. Hitting rocks at that speed is not advised.

After passing through the cut, we sailed to the Glass Window, the thinnest part of Eleuthera where a natural bridge once stood, but it was washed away and a man-made bridge installed in its place. It seems Mother Nature did not like that one either and she moved it over about 7’ so there is only a one lane crossing and southbound traffic has to yield. We could not see much that was impressive from the water, but a subsequent ride up there by car proved majestic. The Atlantic Ocean was roaring and pounding on one side in a whirling deep blue and snow white foaming vortex while the sound side was a gorgeous turquoise and calm. (The photo does not do it justice.) We also got to experience a blow hole with foamy vapor and water jets erupting from the rock as waves crashed into the Atlantic side. Very impressive, as was the lack of guardrails, crumbling cement, and generally fragile looking structure that would never pass muster in the States. This is fun!

We anchored south of the Glass Window trying to tuck in behind a point but the wind was from the S/SE and we rocked and rolled all night. The next day, we motored a few miles to the man-made entrance to Hatchet Bay Pond. The pond formerly was a salt pond (used to dry and cure salt) until the thin wall was cut away allowing access to the Sound. While the cut is claimed to be 90’ wide, it looks no more than 70’ or less and feels like much less while passing through with a lot of wave action on the outside. Once inside, the water calms and one is faced with a kidney shaped harbor, well protected from bad weather. There, we met up with our friends Dave and Mary on Sanity II. We last had seen them in Nassau and they proceeded south from there while we went north. They headed out of Hatchet’s Bay this morning following our path to Spanish Wells, while we followed theirs to Governor’s Harbor.

Hatchet Bay, Alice Town, is very different from Spanish Wells. The homes are nowhere near as cute or well kept and litter abounds. One wonders as to the cultural differences and why the area cannot organize itself to pick up and, as the signs proclaim, “Help Keep Our Community Clean”. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the area, the wonderful – spoon necessary – Daiquiris at Twin Brothers (they have another restaurant, also very good, on Potter’s Cay in Nassau) and fabulous stone crabs and beer at the Front Porch. We also (as noted above) rented a car and drove north to Glass Window, The Bluff, Preacher’s Cave (where the Eleutheran Adventurers sought refuge after being shipwrecked), and to Gregory Town where there is a fabulous little gift shop with all sorts of wonderful stuff we had to have (!). We then headed south seeking to have lunch at Cocodimama in Alabaster Bay, but it was closed for the month (and displayed a for sale sign at the end of the driveway – another small fortune in the making?). Because we were quite hungry by then, we continued south to Governor’s Harbor and had lunch at Mark’s – fabulous grilled Mahi Mahi sandwiches. En route back to Hatchet Bay, we stopped at a vegetable stand and bought fresh – as in we went out and watched them pick it – produce (arugula, parsley, tomatoes, etc.) grown in raised beds. We have not seen that method used anywhere else down here and the farmer said he had been a mechanic studying in Florida and, in his off hours, walked around and looked at different gardens to see how things grew and which methods worked best. That was a treat.

This morning (February 19), we watched Sanity II head out and then we dropped our mooring and headed south to come here. We have not spent much time yet, but have found the second best laundry in the Bahamas (after Black Point) in Exuma and completed three loads. Tomorrow, we will explore here and go to the Levy Nature Preserve, Tippy’s Bar and Restaurant, and the pink sand beaches. We also hope to catch up with the folks on the raft behind us, but that is another story.

Stay well all, and by the way: we like hearing from you folks too!