Little Farmer’s Cay March 24, 2013

We departed George Town the morning of March 22 and motored north on flat calm seas. We trolled, but like the rest of our fishing season, caught nothing. That has seemed to be the prevailing fish story this year among cruisers – none!

Because we are working our way north slowly to get to Staniel Cay about the same time our auto pilot parts arrive (we do not yet know when), we decided to stop along the way and visit places we have not been before. So, we pulled into Rudder Cut Cay, just south of Musha Cay. A couple of other boats from George Town were there so we felt at home. It was the hottest day we have experienced, so after launching the dinghy, we fell in to cool off. The water is crystalline these days – no storms to stir things up. Then, a dinghy explore was in order and we toured the interior pond (shaped like a rudder and reached through a cut, hence the name) and surrounding islands. We visited the Margaret Lee (cruisers about 5 years older than we – encouraging!) and learned about their success finding lobsters earlier in the day. We were invited aboard Onward by Joe Rocchio and had a delightful time learning about him and his cruising experience, as well as sampling deliciously refreshing rum and sodas and his spicy biscotti.

We thought we would try hunting the next (Saturday) morning where the Margaret Lee had informed us of their good fortune, but the winds were too high and the waves too big. As a result, we bid farewell to Joe and Rudder Cut and headed to the outside for a downwind sail to Little Farmer’s. The day was delightful, with a light breeze (then 10-12 knots) and we arrived at the Farmer’s Cay cut just at slack tide. One does not want to pass through some of these cuts at other than slack, and certainly not when the water is going one way and the wind the other, because of the potential for loss of control in rough water in tight spots. We arranged for a mooring from Ocean Cabin and hooked up. (We subsequently learned we had picked up the wrong orange mooring and had to relocate, but that was no problem – despite the intervening Ocean Cabin Rum Special drink, with 5 different rums and liqueurs.) Van checked the mooring to make sure the tackle was in good condition and found all was well.

This morning, we went to the local Baptist Church – St. Mary’s Union – for Palm Sunday Service. The congregation (including a number of fellow cruisers) gathered at the docks and proceeded with a palm processional to the church at the top of the hill. Upon entering, we found it pleasingly air conditioned, which was good because it was hot outside and the service lasted 2¾ hours! It was what one might call a typical African American service, with a lot of singing (loud), praises, Amens, and Halleluias! Typical of most of the churches we have visited in The Bahamas, the visitors were asked to stand and introduce themselves to the congregation. When it came our turn, and we identified our boat as named Gratitude, and the dinghy named Attitude, the female pastor announced her pleasure because one of her sermon themes was having an Attitude of Gratitude. Also typical of the island churches, we all were greeted by each of the other congregants with hugs and blessings. This being a special service, the local women were outfitted – head to toe – in sparking white outfits, hats, pearls, etc. They take great pride in their appearance, which is not for show but as a form of worship and appreciation for what they have been given.

After the service, about 9 of the cruisers took a trip (with a local “guide”) to a cave in the interior of a neighboring island. The cave was delightfully cool, contained stalactites and stalagmites, and a pool of brackish water into which most waded or swam. Because of the rough conditions and the low freeboard of the guide’s boat (waves washed right over the bow and sides), most of the cruisers walked along the beach to an area that was protected from the winds and high waves before getting aboard. Now that we know its location, we can guide others, as well as to “lobster beach” so-called because the lobster congregate in the shallows off-shore in certain seasons and times of day. Worth a try? We’ll see.